Husky's Yard - Subaru Transmitted Infection

  • Thread starter Aquarelle
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Famous last words... rofl

I would also go for the Qm1, but just asking myself, if the Qm1 isn't too old and plain. But I would probably go too for it. Original colour ftw!
 
Ibonibo
Famous last words... rofl

I would also go for the Qm1, but just asking myself, if the Qm1 isn't too old and plain. But I would probably go too for it. Original colour ftw!
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Well yeah, that is rather the problem - however White isn't the final colour. Think of this as being my new "Base coat" as I'm going to be stripping off all of the old paint anyhow.

The car has been resprayed at least once from Gloss Black to Gunmetal Grey Metallic, very poorly I might add. So how much could be preserved of the old surface is questionable and I may end up stripping it all the way back.

But we'll see, that sounds like a whole lotta work and by that point I may as well acid dip the whole chassis and that isn't cheap.

So yeah, White first so my car is all at least 1 tone - then Blue 👍
 
So for a week or two I've been sure my engine was down on power, significantly so infact.

I shrugged it off as just being used to Chase's Z32 TT and my sense of speed was just getting warped.

However, I did more research on the matter and well long story short I discovered that my VCT was as dead as a doornail, meaning I had maybe 120 horsepower at most.

So there are two leading causes of VCT dying, Blocked Oil Gallery (Not fun) or the Solenoid (Or both)

In my case? I was extremely lucky enough to discover it was solely the solenoid!

I even got the replacement free of charge ;)

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The cause of all my problems..

Next week I'll replace my gasket with a genuine Nissan one. It appears the previous owner bought a cheapy one, removed the manifold for some reason and then put it back on - resulting in a crumpled, cracked exhaust gasket.

It was bad but tolerable for the past 6 months but now my car is sounding more like a tractor than a gorgeous RB - changing the exhaust really highlighted the problem as well as I can actually hear my engine!
 
Who says Skylines aren't practical?

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Heavy duty plastic bumper/bullbars for the XR8 - fit a treat!

Engine is running much better, got all my power back but I'm definitely due for an oil change - which will likely be the final oil change before my turbo conversion.

Oh yeah, that's a thing. I got a 45V turbo with 121 thousand kilometers, oil and water lines, Z32 ECU (Potentially chipped as it was being used on an RB25DET) all in exchange for that free clutch, pressure plate and flywheel that was thrown in with my interior, gearbox and exhaust!

So, all that remains is

Exhaust Gasket
BOV
Turbo J pipe
Intercooler + Piping
Cold Air Dam
Tune

So uh.. yeah.. exciting week!

I also figured I'd upload this nice little piece of road, driving with a super heavy duty (and super heavy in general) front bumper riding shotgun is more than a little frightening :lol: was scared the thing was gonna come join me in the drivers seat!

 
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Korza
It'll be fine, just turn the radio up to hide the noise of the metal-on-metal grinding as you drive.
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HAH! Yeah I think this is a better option myself..

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20 bucks for a pair from Mag n Turbo warehouse, second hand but all I need! I am now however in the market for new rims =p

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Much better~

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Now to get on those lows!
 
Lmfao I really thought you went low too. Sucks about the fitment =|.

Korza
It'll be fine, just turn the radio up to hide the noise of the metal-on-metal grinding as you drive.
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I remember having to do that til I got home loll. Couldn't keep hearing the grinding.

EDIT: well way to go, update the thread as I type.
 
Okay, problem.

I've bled my brakes all properly but there is almost NO brake pressure, the pedal is spongy with heaps of travel before the brakes even vaguely engage.

There's no visible air in the line when bleeding them but it feels very much like there is.

Thoughts? People are saying brake master cylinder but I was assured the factory one would be fine.. I don't know what to do T_T
 
How much bigger are the brakes compared to stock and what are the master cylinder size differences? I've put bigger brakes on a KP61 Starlet and had to up the master cylinder size to get any feel in the brakes.
 
I have 6 more pistons I need to be moving, 2 extra on the rear and 4 on the front.

I'm told however that the DE master cylinder should be sufficient, I've done a full flush in the hope that will fix the problem and I'll test that theory first thing in the morning.. if not.. I guess I'll be ordering a mastercylinder/brake booster from the DET - however people have done this conversion without performing this upgrade many times in the past without changing that so it's possible I just need to bench bleed the master cylinder.. which is equally undesirable..
 
I've done a significant amount of research over the weekend in the hope of finding a solution to my problem with no real luck.

My master cylinder is a BM44 DET BMS, meaning it's the largest you can possibly get without ABS.

Now, the issue is, my old brakes were 2/1, new ones are 4/2. Meaning I have 8 new pistons that need to be moved.

Now, APPARENTLY a Z32 BMS will fit with some modification as it has a fitting for a non ABS type that is simply plugged. This could be a viable option but it's not ideal as I already have a BM44, technically speaking I don't need a new master cylinder at all as the car these brakes came from had a BM44 (I know, I removed them off it!)

So, this means either - my master cylinder is defunct or there is air in my system and I'm just failing to get it out via my bleeding method.

It's highly probable that there has been air in the system all along, as this BMS is an upgrade on the factory item and it only had 6 pistons to move rather than the current 12.

Stress stress stress

At least I got my WOF finally.. apparently my exhaust being loud was a big no no but brakes taking 3/4s of the pedal travel to engage? totally fine.
 
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That WOF thing is crazy. Maybe you do have air in the system. A vacuum bleeder might help or bleeding the master cylinder without the brake lines connected to it might help. If the master is sized correctly then either seals are gone or there is air in it. Does it hold pressure when you hold your foot on the pedal?
 
GDII
That WOF thing is crazy. Maybe you do have air in the system. A vacuum bleeder might help or bleeding the master cylinder without the brake lines connected to it might help. If the master is sized correctly then either seals are gone or there is air in it. Does it hold pressure when you hold your foot on the pedal?
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Yes, it holds pressure just fine - as I said once the brakes engage they engage hard - there's just 20 miles of travel before they actually engage
 
UrieHusky
Yes, it holds pressure just fine - as I said once the brakes engage they engage hard - there's just 20 miles of travel before they actually engage
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Maybe you could adjust the travel of the pedal.
 
I'm not sure that would solve the issue, there's no resistance from the pedal whatsoever as if it's compressing air long before it's compressing the pistons.
 
Yeah there are more pistons but they are smaller than the larger pistons so require less fluid each. In other words, more pistons doesn't necessarily mean much more fluid.

Have you tried bleeding the master itself? What brake lines are you running?
 
Punknoodle
Yeah there are more pistons but they are smaller than the larger pistons so require less fluid each. In other words, more pistons doesn't necessarily mean much more fluid.

Have you tried bleeding the master itself? What brake lines are you running?
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I haven't tried bleeding the master, no. I don't actually know how!

I don't know how to tell what lines I have no what I should tell you to be honest, I know there are 3 lines coming off the master cylinder but that's about it, this is all new to me so I'm sorta working it out as I go
 
UrieHusky
I haven't tried bleeding the master, no. I don't actually know how!

I don't know how to tell what lines I have no what I should tell you to be honest, I know there are 3 lines coming off the master cylinder but that's about it, this is all new to me so I'm sorta working it out as I go
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It's the same process to bleed the master as you would the calipers assuming you are doing it with 2 people as opposed to using a bleed kit. Instead of cracking open the bleed nipple on the caliper you crack open the nut on the brake line coming from the master. It's a little messy as you can't attach a hose to collect the fluid so you have to put bulk rags under the nut and be careful not to let the brake fluid touch the paint work.

Unless you have drained the fluid from the reservoir while bleeding the calipers and it's sucked in air then it's probably not the master that needs bleeding but I thought I'd mention it as it can happen while bleeding the calipers.
 
Punknoodle
It's the same process to bleed the master as you would the calipers assuming you are doing it with 2 people as opposed to using a bleed kit. Instead of cracking open the bleed nipple on the caliper you crack open the nut on the brake line coming from the master. It's a little messy as you can't attach a hose to collect the fluid so you have to put bulk rags under the nut and be careful not to let the brake fluid touch the paint work.

Unless you have drained the fluid from the reservoir while bleeding the calipers and it's sucked in air then it's probably not the master that needs bleeding but I thought I'd mention it as it can happen while bleeding the calipers.
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Well, the thing is this car has had a very dodgy maintenance history as far as I can tell - I mean anybody who's capable of this

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Is probably capable of letting air get into the master cylinder. The brakes never felt fantastic and this could be simply highlighting that issue.

As time goes on and the brakes bed in they're feeling better, there's less travel than there was initially - however there's still a fair bit of travel before the brakes engage properly.. but god damn when they engage you have to reeeally push to apply the brakes harder, once they engage they grip up HARD


Imagine this is the pedal travel

|______________|

Brakes engage here
|_____|________|

Before that point there's no resistance on the pedal (Does make the heel and toe maneuver much easier however, so that's a nice bonus I guess)

However from here
|________|_____|

The brakes grip up as they should and become very firm and direct - but they do become very hard to press harder than that, there's a great deal of resistance.
 
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Brakes are feeling much better after bedding them in, master cylinder definitely needs bleeding but the brakes are definitely feeling better

So to celebrate the event I went to take some photos

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After coming home and discovering the ISO was hard locked way too high for no apparent reason, I decided to go back out near sundown to take some JDM magazine inspired shots

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I'm beginning to debate selling her unfortunately, with all the major work completed there isn't much fun left in the project - and if I sell before 250 thousand Ks it will be a more desirable purchase.

I'm thinking of beginning a Z32 TT project or an RB25 280Z, who knows - I'm not sure myself just yet.
 
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UrieHusky
I'm beginning to debate selling her unfortunately, with all the major work completed there isn't much fun left in the project - and if I sell before 250 thousand Ks it will be a more desirable purchase.

I'm thinking of beginning a Z32 TT project or an RB25 280Z, who knows - I'm not sure myself just yet.
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The photos look fantastic, told ya you were capable of them. Keep it up! 👍

I can hear a Maxima SMX calling your name.... :D
 
What in gods name was I thinking, there is no way in hell my R is going anywhere but to my grave with me

LONG LIVE THE SKYLINE R33
 
Never sell a Skyline. GTR or not. ;)

All the guys I know who sold them, bought an other one after. Because heartbleed :lol:

Nice pics 👍
 
JrDarknes
Are you gonna try to make the front look like the r33 gtr or keep it like that?
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That's the intention yes, I still haven't decided whether I want to go with a GT-R bumper or go for a 400R style. NZ Fibreglass manufacturers aren't like chinese rip off ones as we have to deal with possums - fibreglass that assplodes on impact just isn't acceptable - so you'll often find the better quality stuff is made of FRP - much like the genuine 400 R

So it really comes down simply to styling, which I love both - though the GT-R is more understated which is the main selling point as I already struggle with the "Ricer" image as is.

Ibonibo
Never sell a Skyline. GTR or not. ;)

All the guys I know who sold them, bought an other one after. Because heartbleed :lol:

Nice pics 👍
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Cheers man, I appreciate it - and I know I have no clue what I was thinking. I was letting peer pressure get to me!
 

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