I got a "new" car!

👍 to the Koni shock inserts. I loved them on my old Cavalier. And Eibach has some nice springs that lower the car a moderate 1 inch. The MR2 doesn't really need to be much lower than it is. There's also some good alignment stuff. They don't have any anti-roll bars, but unless you're planning on some hardcore circuit racing the car won't need them. But you know that. :D http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...odel=MR2&autoYear=1986&autoModClar=&brand=all

Who makes those V700 tires? BFG G-Force Sports come in 195/55-15 and 205/50-15 to fit your staggered rim size. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...arch=false&fromCompare1=yes&partnum=05VR5GFSP

Yes, I'm a Tire Rack fanboy. :lol:
 
Sorry, I missed that little tidbit. :D Thats gonna take a lot of patience. 👍
 
ExigeExcel
Sounds great 👍 Are you planning to drive to the track with the race exhaust and tyres on? Or do you have a trailer?
Click to expand...

Neither, I'll just drive out there with the street exhaust and tyres on it, and have the race stuff in a support car, so I can swap it at the track.
 
So, the MR2 will be seeing its first action in two days, if I didn't already mention it. I'm running the 4AG Challenge Time Trial at Willow Springs International Raceway on sunday. Picking up a set of V700s and a set of Konig meshies (14x6) to put them on, tomorrow morning.
 
Wow, how did I miss this?

Nice and welcome to the MR2 club ;) I've got an 87 running a Silvertop and enough crap done to it to blind some people.

And yeah, I drove an 06 WRX for a few months, and the MR2 just feels so much... better I think.

Tell us how the meet goes, wanna hear some details ;)

And have you practiced any drifting in the car yet? Its a good way to get use to the snap oversteer.
 
I think we need a "discuss your MR2" thread now, since like 4 of us fairly active types have them :D
 
So I didn't do all that great, second to last place in class, but my times weren't bad, considering my car is pretty much stock and was on street tyres.

2006_121050013.jpg


2006_121050066.jpg


2006_121050109.jpg


2006_121050160.jpg


2006_121050059.jpg
 
You are certainly getting a bit of body roll one of those pics! Looks like you had fun though. Those aren't the same wheels that you had on in the first set of pics, but they do suit the car what are they?

Man I took a trip to a bodyshop last week and they had an AW11 in there with a freshly installed 20v engine, although the new wiring (harness? loom? I forget what it's called) bits weren't installed and all over the front seat. I thought the 4a swaps didn't need a whole load of rewiring, just the new ecu but I don't know, I bet Cody knows though. I need a few parts of my car repainted thanks to the previous owners love of globbing touchup paint on one rear fender. At the moment I have a nice chunk of paint missing making it look like arse.
 
Race Id, the wiring is a big PITA if you don't have some else do the harness up. I am afraid to go back and redo my wiring cause its a mess... scares the crap outta me at this point. And it where my friend spent alot of his time when he did the black top on his MR2. That and moving around the piping for the coolant.

And those are some pretty light wheels, but how much is cheap? Like 80 dollars a wheel cheap?
 
Azuremen
Race Id, the wiring is a big PITA if you don't have some else do the harness up. I am afraid to go back and redo my wiring cause its a mess... scares the crap outta me at this point. And it where my friend spent alot of his time when he did the black top on his MR2. That and moving around the piping for the coolant.
Click to expand...

That is why if I ever want an engine swap, i'm giving it to a shop to do. Unless I manage to score a decently large garage and the income to afford a second cheap beater to drive in the meantime.

Man my car constantly needs stuff for it, new front tyres, rear rotors and pads, possibly new rear calipers, some paintwork, possibly some new suspension bits and maybe get my wheels repainted.

Man i've spent so much money on this car and I probably will continue to, but god damn it makes me smile every time I drive it so it's worth it.
 
Azuremen
Hmm, not a bad MSRP. Though I am curious as to how you obtained them cheaper. Local hook up or what?
Click to expand...

Partial sponsorship, from a local shop. (JLB Motorsports, which is why my helmet and car have their stickers.)
 
I want a sponsorship. Even just partial. Any advice on how to get one and all that? I have a pretty quick car, just need to get a few things rounded out on it and it would be a good show car too.

Plus I am planning a turbo, so it would be snazzy quick then.
 
Azuremen
I want a sponsorship. Even just partial. Any advice on how to get one and all that? I have a pretty quick car, just need to get a few things rounded out on it and it would be a good show car too.

Plus I am planning a turbo, so it would be snazzy quick then.
Click to expand...

Honestly, it's all down to knowing the right people. This isn't officially really a sponsorship, the shop just hooked me up in return for some promotion. The second-in-command over there is an old friend of mine from the canyons.

If you're seriously going to be doing competition of any kind, though, it's defenitely worth talking to local shops.
 
Happened to a friend of mine. We stuck a black top 20V into his engine bay... its quite zippy now.

And its happened to me... so yeah, I understand completely. Sucks and sucks alot.

Seriously, get a 20 Valve, you can find them for about 1 grand ebay including ECU if you look around. You don't need a tranny, as it will bolt right to your C52, and all the mounting points are the same. If you get the ECU, wiring will be a bit easier, with the only other big deal being redoing the coolent piping.

And its so much quicker with a 20V. That, and now I can find 20V Silvertops on ebay for like 300 bucks, just the engine. Great for when I need parts from blowing something up. My friend has 3 or 4 silvertops laying around for parts now.
 
Azuremen
Happened to a friend of mine. We stuck a black top 20V into his engine bay... its quite zippy now.

And its happened to me... so yeah, I understand completely. Sucks and sucks alot.

Seriously, get a 20 Valve, you can find them for about 1 grand ebay including ECU if you look around. You don't need a tranny, as it will bolt right to your C52, and all the mounting points are the same. If you get the ECU, wiring will be a bit easier, with the only other big deal being redoing the coolent piping.

And its so much quicker with a 20V. That, and now I can find 20V Silvertops on ebay for like 300 bucks, just the engine. Great for when I need parts from blowing something up. My friend has 3 or 4 silvertops laying around for parts now.
Click to expand...

The blacktop is from one of those newer Trueno/Levin coupes right? I suppose the coolant pipes are layed out due to the different radiator and heater core locations. Iono but if the block is the same overall, would it realy make much of a difference?

Also you shouldn't bother with a puny 4a engine, go the whole hog and put a real engine in there. 3SGTE all the way baby!
 
I know a guy doing the 3S-GTE swap... lots and lots more work than a 4A 20V. And I mean lots.

You can swap parts around almost all the 4A-Gs, the big difference on the 20V and 16V is the head (duh) and pistons, since they are cut for the 4 or 5 valves.

I'll clear up a few differences why I am at between the Silvertop and Blacktop.

They have different cams, more lift on the Black when I last looked at the cams.

VVT on the Silvertop, VVT-i on the Blacktop
AFM on the Silver, MAP on the Black
160 HP for Silver, 165 HP for Black

Those are the biggies I think... I personal would go with the Silvertop for tuning, as its cheaper to replace still and I've read a few times the bottom end is just a little tougher.

And about the coolent... overflow resevoir managed to end up on the oppisite corner of the engine bay than it was orginally on. So its a bit of piping :p
 
Azuremen
I know a guy doing the 3S-GTE swap... lots and lots more work than a 4A 20V. And I mean lots.

You can swap parts around almost all the 4A-Gs, the big difference on the 20V and 16V is the head (duh) and pistons, since they are cut for the 4 or 5 valves.

I'll clear up a few differences why I am at between the Silvertop and Blacktop.

They have different cams, more lift on the Black when I last looked at the cams.

VVT on the Silvertop, VVT-i on the Blacktop
AFM on the Silver, MAP on the Black
160 HP for Silver, 165 HP for Black

Those are the biggies I think... I personal would go with the Silvertop for tuning, as its cheaper to replace still and I've read a few times the bottom end is just a little tougher.

And about the coolent... overflow resevoir managed to end up on the oppisite corner of the engine bay than it was orginally on. So its a bit of piping :p
Click to expand...

Yeah 3sgte would probably need new engine mounts fabbed, adapting all the wiring, coolant lines, installing a completely different transmssion, driveshafts etc etc.

And yeah I found out that the Blacktop does come from the newer Levin/Trueno BZR/BZG coupes.

Edit: Is the 4a series non interference? Well I suppose that would depend on the head and pistons iono
 

Latest Posts

Back