I Rode my first Bike EVAR

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Thatman

Thatman

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A Man Hamster
And I liked it, my friend brought his
1986 Honda interceptor VFR 500
I really liked it and I personally dont think bikes are all that different for driving/riding though it was only around the block perhaps out on the highway next đź‘Ť though I doubt it :lol:
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I rode my first bike ever on July 11 - A Yamaha XT200.

I bought my first bike ever today - A Honda XL600R.
Prepare to make a purchase.
 
Slicks
I rode my first bike ever on July 11 - A Yamaha XT200.

I bought my first bike ever today - A Honda XL600R.
Prepare to make a purchase.
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Congrats Slicks , welcome to the biker world. đź‘Ť
 
I did 75 kilometers today. I'm getting comfortable with the bike. Great power and torque whenever you demand it.

I've got to replace the stator, though. I spent a total of almost four hours through the day trying to start the bike (it's a kicker). Most of that was when it was cold, although when I'd left it to cool for a half hour it was stubborn as well. It flooded itself pretty badly when we were trying to start it cold. When it's hot, it's two kicks and go.

I suspect (or at least hope) that it hadn't been run for a while before today... If it's going to be this difficult all the time, other bikes may be a consideration.
 
I doubt very much a stator has anything to do with that. I assume you're using the choke for cold starts???
 
We were using the choke, but it ended up flooding badly. When it did eventually start (cold), it was without the choke.
 
Um 1994 Suzuki Katana 600 Yay or Nay? Front Fork seals were bad and cleaned up everything else was good....
 
If the fork-seals are gone that tells me the bike's been wheelied a lot, so you can pretty much guarantee it's been thrashed, even if it looks clean. I'd steer clear if I were you.

Before you consider buying anything I'd take a look at this useful page of 'what to look for tips':

http://www.visordown.com/workshop/inspect-a-bike-in-five-minutes-flat/1631.html

It's hard not to do, but don't be tempted to buy the first thing you see. Take your time; if you get it wrong it's going to cost you a lot of money to put right. I speak from experience.

Also, do some research into the proper value of the bike you're looking at. In the UK we have Parkers, I'm sure you'll have something similar in the US.

Try and take someone with you who knows what to look for themselves. You're far less likely to feel pressured into buying something if you have some knowledgeable support with you. An all-knowing 'Silent Bob' will rattle any potential BSers.

You won't regret it - getting your first bike is like waking up to a new life. Nothing will ever be the same again! đź‘Ť
 
I would add that sometimes a really trashed bike will have broken steering stops. The handlebars should move so far, and no further, coming to a hard limit. A bike that has tumbled may have those broken.

I don't know what is meant by fork seals were bad and cleaned up. Cleaning splooge does not fix fork seals.
 
Thanks TwistedNav, though he even wants me to come look at it before he thinks about signing it over to me and I live about 2 hours away. And Ill be sure to print that out and check all that, not to mention ill have my friend that rides the interceptor with me.

Wfooshe he said he just cleaned them so they dont leak anymore and its been that way for 2 years and hes had no problems with the ride.

But I spent like an hour talking with the guy on the phone and he basically told me the bikes lifes story since he got it 2 years ago.

http://rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/1297744412.html
 
Interesting - I've just read the listing you quote, and whilst he goes into a fair amount of detail he's very wrong about the fork seals, and I'm sure that wfooshee will agree.

If the fork seals leak, the fork oil is depleting every time the forks compress. This won't feel bad for a while but after some time you will cease to have any damping on the forks.

Leaking fork seals are a major negative. Either he replaces them, or step away from the bike! If he says it doesn't affect the ride, he doesn't know anything about bikes.

Also, I don't know what the law is in the US, but here in the UK older vehicles need to be safety checked every year (the MOT). Aftermarket cans, unless labelled 'For Road Use' are illegal and have the potential to get you into trouble. If you buy a bike with an aftermarket can, make sure you get the original as well.

Has he replaced the engine himself? If so, based on what he says about fork seals, I wouldn't trust him to have done a good job.

That bike, in the UK, from a dealer, is worth no more than 1,000GBP.

I know you're desperate to get out there on your new wheels, but I'd look at something else. If it's anything like the UK, there are plenty of good deals to be had. If you have 2,000 dollars to spend on your first bike, my suggestion would be to take those dollars to a reputable dealer, then if anything goes wrong, you should be protected by a warranty.

I say this because I've been in your position in the past, and it's cost me a lot of money putting right other people's 'improvements'!

One final thought - a custom paint job more often than not indicates a crashed bike.

Take your time, relatively speaking, you have plenty of it left! đź‘Ť

Just been scanning your local area - no end of cruisers! This was amongst them though:

http://www.cycletrader.com/find/listing/1995-Yamaha-YZF-600R-95177383/?ZMC=Oodle&BAC-Oodle

Far safer bet than that Katana! I fancy that myself. If you offered those guys 2,000 dollars, chances are they'd take it.
 
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Yeah, if a fork seal doesn't leak just because it's been cleaned, then that probably means there's not much fluid being contained behind the seal. . . . Not good.

Fork seals do not rejuvenate and come back to life. They have to be replaced if they leak.
 
Okay thanks guys, It'll be hard to tell him I will most likely decline but at the same time I appreciate yalls input, however so far he was the only one to accept payments. I didnt really want to go to a dealer b/c then I would have to pay interest.

But just to set things straight, even thought the ride has gotten "softer" as hes says, and its been 2 years since it had that problem; its just going to get worse and make the bikes virtually un-ride able? OR one day the front forks are just going to be fixed with no travel and affect handling?

Then I do have to say TwistedNav that if you think I would like the bike, yes I would, not so much the color also its a wee bit over my range of 2000usd..... And your question about safety check no im very sure we dont, nor emissions cause im going to take out my pre-silencers and install a high flow cat to my RX7 though we do have noise laws :(

One final thing, do you guys think a 600 is a good starting point for my size? Im 6'1"(181cm) and 230lbs.....
 
Thatman
Then I do have to say TwistedNav that if you think I would like the bike, yes I would, not so much the color also its a wee bit over my range of 2000usd..... And your question about safety check no im very sure we dont, nor emissions cause im going to take out my pre-silencers and install a high flow cat to my RX7 though we do have noise laws :(

One final thing, do you guys think a 600 is a good starting point for my size? Im 6'1"(181cm) and 230lbs.....
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Haggle them down! I haven't checked the bike but I managed to get ÂŁ200 of the already low asking price of my bike, and a free service and MOT. The CC isn't important as regards your dimensions, it's the bike itself. I ride a Supermoto and I'm also around the same height, it's very comfortable for me and I feel much less cramped then the Honda CG I did my initial CBT on. Most 600s I imagine will be plenty big enough for you, but the best way to tell is get on the bikes themselves, some bikes will of course be more comfortable.
 
Just remember, you're parting with your money, not trying to make friends. You're not going to be hurting anyone's feelings by refusing to part with your money. Just imagine the other guy having taken your money, turning around and whispering 'sucker' to himself. It probably won't be the case, but the most effective way someone has of manipulating you is to be your friend. It's business, plain and simple.

As mentioned before, no fork oil means no damping, so the ride doesn't just become softer, it gets floppy, or bouncy as there's nothing constraining the spring from it's natural movement.

Fork seals are not a big job, there's really no excuse for not doing them.

If you don't have such a thing as MOT testing then even more reason I would have thought to buy from a dealer, as you'll be protected by warranty. If it means paying a bit of interest, pay the interest. Better that than being faced with big maintenance bills on a regular basis.

Regarding size, there's no hard and fast rule (Dragonistic summed it up above as I was writing this post). In terms of comfort it's entirely down to the geometry of the bike. It's like shoes, you need to try lots to find out what's comfortable.

As far as engine size goes, 600 is generally the first 'big bike' size, but if you've no riding experience at all, I'd actually recommend a couple of years on a 125 or a 250. Unless you're a very conservative and controlled rider, you will crash in your first year, and if you do it at speed you will probably end up in hospital.

In terms of fun, you can have fun on anything. I've raced an 1100 around the Nurburgring, done track days on 400s and 600s, as well as riding many others on all types of roads in all types of conditions. I'm currently using a 125 to do my daily commute in London. Whilst the 125 doesn't give me any arse-clenching thrills I still arrive at the office with a big grin and get to work just as quickly, if not quicker than I ever have on anything bigger.

You also need to factor in the cost of insurance. If you step straight onto a 600 you're likely to be paying a big premium. If you start small and work up, you'll pay far less.

At the end of the day of course it's your decision. What do you want out of biking? This will undoubtedly change over time, or even day to day, and there is a bike out there to cater for that desire. Whatever you do, do it with eyes open, wear adequate protection, ride within your limits, and prepare for a new addiction! You may well find that the mileage on your car decreases dramatically.
 
Until winter hits :lol:
Though I think then Ill start having a more open mind about anything less then 600 for now
that said I never thought about riding on the street without AT LEAST a helmet(and here its required until you get your license) so yeah. BUt I was just going to see about getting the seals done at the local cycle shop and how much more that would cost, you know.

Anyways Ill keep yall updated. thatnks for the input again Dragonistic,TwistedNav.

On a side note; I at the back of my head, if eventually i would get a lower cc bike i would have just done the same thing with my cars and yes I DO realize there is a vast difference but the fact is It would always occur to me that im STILL slow(in a straight line(im American straight is safe :lol:)and thats what an rx7 is for).
 
Both front fork seals are bad. I never replaced them cuz it in no way hinders the way the bike runs or in my opinion rides so I never saw the point
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The fact he has said the above would be enough for me to run a mile from buying any bike from him :crazy:
 
OKay, oddly enough I have found another Suzuki Katana GSX 600 but this time for $300!
Now its so low beacuse it apparently needs a new swingarm, chain and clutch cover.
Thoughts?(btw I wouldn't do this work and would have it taken to a local specialist)
 
Hmm, I'd want to know why it needs the things you mention. The clutch cover suggests a crash, and if the swing-arm is a result of the same, sounds like a big one, in which case the frame is probably compromised as well. I'd steer well clear, unless you're going to be doing all the work yourself. 'Spares or repairs' bikes are the realm of the spannering enthusiast. If you're not doing the work yourself you'll be reaching into your wallet practically every time you look at the bike let alone ride it.

I'd suggest joining a local bike club. You'll meet loads of people with lots of miles under their belts, and lots of contacts. Get friendly with a mechanic held in high esteem and take a potential buy round to them to have a look at.

Good luck.
 
A swingarm is not a wear item, it should last the life of the bike. If it's toast, something bad has happened.

Salvage parts are much more scarce for bikes than for cars. It's not like you can run to the local yard and find good stuff. New parts are incredibly expensive.

Run away, very far and fast.
 
Well it seems like he might have a buyer BUT if he doesn't sell it I have found a local Motorcycle mechanic that said he would be happy to look at it with me and see how much it may be to replace it.
 
I still wouldn't bother. Swingarm damage is a Bad Thing. Other stuff would be going on with that bike.
 
I thought I'd post an update on the XL.

I did a couple hours of maintenance about two weeks ago, which included changing the spark plug.
The old one was so badly fouled that it wouldn't spark when externally grounded to the block.
Needless to say, a new plug was gapped and went right in.

It starts beautifully.
Two to four kicks cold, one to three hot.
I haven't been riding much as it's still illegal for me to do so without supervision, although when I have been riding it has admittedly been without the watchful eye.

I've done about 240km in total, with a 'skills test' booked for the 3rd of September. Passing will remove the major restrictions from my license, although I still won't be able to ride at night.
Not a big deal, though.

I wasn't able to get out for a ride last weekend, but I did commute to work on Friday, and I'll hopefully do so at least once this week.
Auto racing and prep will take most of my weekend coming up, but I badly want to hit the dirt roads... A bit pathetic that I still haven't taken my dualsport offroad yet.

All in good time, I suppose.
 

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