Ibo's Garage - TTRS3GTR

[CAMAROBOY69]

^Thanks.
It's like running. Just do the steps. Don't think of all the steps laying in front of you, just do the few steps now. And when you look back up, you've come a long way 👍
My Shoulders do cry "surrender" though, but I just keep going, they might fall off, don't care
1hour in:

Little rust only, easy

Real easy:

More red

Done:

Done:

More done

It's just that part at the drivers door though...
Zinc'd

And this is why it is soo incredible important to get the red off:

Very small dots like these, the primer should enclose, but I try to get every little particle, just as with the rust

Looking great. Plus getting the red "paint" off lets you know for sure what is under the paint. Rust could be under any spot of paint and you would not know it. Sanding or media blasting it all off guarantees you know what is under the paint. That attention to detail is why I know this paint job will last many years. 👍

Also be careful of body oils and sweat. Any of that getting on your car will be impossible to see and years later will cause the paint to flake off since it cant adhere properly to sweat and oil, or blood.

Wiping down with a proper degreaser between the primer and paint coats will help remove it.

 

[Ibonibo]

^Thanks, Well I am quite happy most of the paint is still on and not bare metal. Otherwise I would need to sand rust of all the car But my little OCD surely comes in handy here to spot rust or anything other than blank metal.
When I see a small black dot, it might be the start of oxydation = sand

I am aware of the "finger oil". And I laugh so much in youtube tutorials when they teach you how important cleaning is and then when they wipe the dust off as last step, bare hand on the metal or cleaning towel on the ground

When I clean, I wear scrubs gloves, and change them if dirty, damaged,.... 👍

All the Zinc I put now on the car will get slightly sanded down just before tapping off when I start putting the primer on. I want to make sure no oxydation at all forms during the time being. Also adding mecanical adehsion :tup:

 

[Ibonibo]

@CAMAROBOY69 I think you would be proud :

Rust day on a very critical spot.

(Pillar section roof intersections)
On 1/2 of the lenght of the car from big rust to slight rust. All present

This tiny tiny heads are so helpful. I feel like a dentist with these. Scraping out cavities of rust

Already 5 gone..... so I got some more

Mediablasting has it costs:
Sand everywhere, on the ground, in my ears, hair.....
At least it feels like holidays

Probably used around 3-4 pounds for that roofline alone

But after some sand, grind, sand, rinse, repeat

it started to look like this:

Macgyvering sanding materials.

Finally CLEAN:

To make sure no rust was nowhere anywhere anymore

Whole roofline done cleaned rustfree. Took the whole day. But well worth it

(special antirust coating. just making sure, as if it comes back on that spot, it will take a year to blow the paint)

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

@CAMAROBOY69 I think you would be proud :

Rust day on a very critical spot.

(Pillar section roof intersections)
On 1/2 of the lenght of the car from big rust to slight rust. All present

This tiny tiny heads are so helpful. I feel like a dentist with these. Scraping out cavities of rust

Already 5 gone..... so I got some more

Mediablasting has it costs:
Sand everywhere, on the ground, in my ears, hair.....
At least it feels like holidays

Probably used around 3-4 pounds for that roofline alone

But after some sand, grind, sand, rinse, repeat

it started to look like this:

Macgyvering sanding materials.

Finally CLEAN:

To make sure no rust was nowhere anywhere anymore

Whole roofline done cleaned rustfree. Took the whole day. But well worth it

(special antirust coating. just making sure, as if it comes back on that spot, it will take a year to blow the paint)

Very proud indeed! Seriously though, it is beyond great news you found THAT rust. It is a nightmare to deal with a few years down the road when you start seeing rust seep out of the back side of that channel from that spot. 👍

Yes those dremmel grinding bits are so wonderful. I have a couple kits with at least 25-30 different bits and tools. As for the ghetto sanding tools, sometimes that's what it takes. Re-engineer that sandpaper any way necessary to get the rust out.

Also yes that is the bad part about media blasting, that sand and dust gets EVERYWHERE. That's why people usually do that away from the paint area. It will take a while to get all that cleaned up with the air compressor and vacuum. I did laugh about your "feels like holidays" comment. Yes it does indeed feel like the beach by the time you are finished. Sand everywhere.

 

[Ibonibo]

*Flattered*

 

[Ibonibo]

As tomorrow is a holiday here, and probably a lot bridge over the weekend. I had a day with little chores and fetching stuff in order to be good for the weekend.

From 10am to 16pm only in shops, running left and right....

Got the rest of the colors:

Organized a Seat Leon Cupra Lip. Needs fitment :haha:

The new Fender and other parts that are cheaper to get new as redo them, small plastic stuff

Cleaned the other side of the roof line, you never know where rust hides. And well I found some after some digging. But nothing compared to the other side. Maybe on an inch or two. Rest was clean.
Cleaned it already completely. Just needs a spray on now. Didn't bother tonight. Too tired..... needs to wait till tomorrow.

And cleaned the roofwindow jam

 

[motortrend]

From 10am to 16pm only in shops, running left and right....

Do your days last 32 hours? just kidding great progress. A lot of work Put in, a shop would never do it so well

 

[Ibonibo]

Feels like 32hour days

Thanks 👍

Cleaned roof line (notice the not clean roof)

Retapped the roofjam off

pff Dent

=

Dent repair:

Did 40% of the driver side
Even test started a door. I will leave the doors till last. Near no work needs to be done on them (45 min each maybe)

Dent repaired (notice the now clean roof)

So today, re-recleaned the roof line, clean the roof, repaired a dent, started the driver side. Should suffice for today.

Hopefully tomorrow driver side finished, and sills started. Now that the roof is done, the car can be jacked up. Probably tomorrow....

 

[Ibonibo]

So big day today: Silly Sills

Artsy rust shot

(Don't ask me why the crap the sill plates are so bended. Either previous owner put one on wrong, or a garage. Ohh well... )
With flash

Sand 1:

Dremel

Sand 2

This approch seems to prove the best for the rust. Dremel up the cavities and then mediablast or papersand them. A bit of wirebrush and it's like new.
Need a few repeats depending the gravity.
The driver sill is 90% done (just repassing a sand tomorrow on it, you know to be sure )
Passenger sill started.


Driver side 90% clean (leaves the drivers doorjam)

Roof , rooflines,... done

This was one of the last rust spots, very mild

This leaves me tomorrow with the sills, which should go fairly quick. Then jacking up the car and hoping that the rear flares are okay.
If yes. I'm done with the bodywork.

I will then start resanding the whole car once quickly only with different sanding blocks. Making a last control for rust or any spots I missed. Cleaning, so much cleaning. Ordering the room for the spray.

Then finally paint time 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

Lots of pics incoming. Today was a decisive day. Rear arches....

But first the passenger sill. Well misplaned. Took double the time than the driver side, because on the rear it was heavily rusted... :S

WAS



After first sand and first dremel....

after the x repeat

It's done but forgot to take a pic of it.... either way I resand both sides tomorrow to be sure. Than the sanding is done.

Cool:

Now the rear arches. I didn't jacked up the car, just did wheel per wheel. Quicker and I still need to move the car around. Because sand

This is the passenger side, I thaught it looked better in RL. Maybe it's just the flash. Recontrol tomorrow

That concludes the passenger side. Not that bad for a 12 year old car that was most of the time outside, in rain, snow....

Driver side:

Ohh spot something there (the little dot on the pic above is easy sanded out when sanding the rest of the arches for painting)

Ohh nasty on the welding spots

Nasty-nessless

Controled the others:

Then turned on the little rust spot

Some more

Done

Now on this spot, how should I get this conserved correctly. Rost Primer. Then Seal rubber, then underbody seal ????

For those thinking, "wait a sec, he's late, isn't he?". Yes I am, that when your buddies don't show up to help

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Lots of great progress again over the weekend. Overall the car is indeed in pretty good shape for being 12 years old and constantly exposed to the elements like snow.

The bent sill is from the previous owners or a shop jacking the car in the wrong place. Happens all the time.

The last spot of rust I would spray the rust primer and then make sure the final spray is some sort of rubberized undercoating. You can spray the undercoating in a few layers. Just be careful because that stuff is very messy and sticks insanely well to everything it hits. Wear gloves and safety glasses for sure. Tape off anything you don't want it to hit. Once its on there, its on there forever.

 

[Ibonibo]

Okay. I could also put some epoxy in to be sure. Quick wheel down, spray, on again. otherside, Spray car.... ?? 👍

Well today I finished the main bodywork. Near all plastics are done. Some small parts still need a sand, but as I sand down the whole car again, I do it in the same time.

Pics?

Passenger rear arch
was quite some rust, got it all and to be sure a quick sand 👍

Done

Copper to lube

Pass. Sill from front to rear

Nemesis spot

Driver rear fender (everything sanded to get the last particle of rust)

(the brown discoloration is the colour of the sand sticking to the rubber)

Driver sill front to rear

Doors

Rust

Sand

Rust gone

Trunk and bonnet removed

Tomorrow a bit more hand sanding, cleaning, cleaning cleaning and perping the room. I don't think I gonna spray tomorrow

 

[Ronald6]

Once you're done you'll smile for a month non-stop.

 

[Ibonibo]

And sleep for a month Thanks

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Once you're done you'll smile for a month YEARS non-stop.

I also thought of another alternative to fill that hole by the shock. You can use something like Polyurethane Roof & Flashing caulk in a tube. Its about $5.00 and is 100% waterproof. Plus it expands and contracts very well. Would be much better than using epoxy like you mentioned. This stuff is basically the ultimate seam sealer IMO. I have used it quite a bit on my Camaro with excellent results. Perfect for seam sealing cracks, holes, inside trunk areas,and other areas under the car. Plus it smells exactly like chocolate. Just don't eat it.

Loctite S30 Polyurethane Roof & Flashing.

 

[Ibonibo]

As always getting the makes you use here is a hard job. But I know what you mean

I need to plaster the whole car with it, every seam, every welding spot, the "rails in" the roof, doors, sills,.....
So I got a few of them


Well back to the days where progress is slow I guess. Or I'm getting slower

Cleaned 5 hours today.

Getting all the sand:

Cleaning, repositioning stuff to clean,... rinse repeat

25kg bags:

Used all this sand for the car plus a bit on a nearly empty bag (so probably around a whole bag )

Got all this used sand back into a empty bag:

So I approx. have collected what I blasted +-. There is still some left in the car that gets vaccumed and some in the bin....

Tomorrow hanging up the hooks and fixation for the parts, taping of. But firstly more cleansing to do....

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Glad you found a similar seam sealer for the job. Works well for cracks, holes, and any imperfections. ALso make sure you spray primer first then the seam sealer. You don't want to put the seam sealer directly to bare metal. Primer, THEN seam sealer.

On the right track. Just make sure you are using an air compressor and blowing at the car from EVERY angle with very high pressure. Because as I mentioned before, the gun uses air pressure and any sand you missed, will be kicked up when you paint the car. I would even run your intake and exhaust fan to help filter and circulate the air. Or at least have some powerful fans going while you blow the sand around.

 

[Ibonibo]

^Thanks. Yeah I think I already asked you the seal before primer or not question Haven't forgotten.

And I haven't forgotten that very important advice on blasting the car with air. When the wheels were down, I already blasted everything under it. Only because of your advice I taught of it 👍

Today really slow day

But I could use some advice on how to paint small stuff like the gasfill cap, door handels, ...

I think for the handles this can do?

I think, the answer will be : Use whatever works
But what works best???

While trying to remove the cover from the door handles, The little bump broke

Went to order a new one, not in stock, there on Friday (I soo hope it's there friday)

SO after my post yesterday, I went in for a little nightshift with a buddy to hang up the big parts

Went till midnight Then played with him BattleField till 2 in he morning *Tired*

This morning while fetching stuff I saw this:

Don't know if that's the colour, but it was pretty. Cell pics don't do justice
But I have no idea if it was the right paint

I needed to do quite a few stuff for the car, so a lot of time went in playing fetch

Like these:
First time I bought some, they only had 4. Bought 12. I don't need 12. But you never know

Vaccumed clean the whole room. Blasted the undebody of the car. Hung up the side skirts, bumpers,

And know I have a pretty good idea where to put all the stuff, how to arrange it,...
Hooks are all in. Just need to hang up. Then looking how to do the small stuff.....

It takes waaaay more time than anticipated, but I think getting all this stuff right is essential.
Good Prep = good paintjob.

Priming day now moved to friday. Then everything should be good.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Yes for painting small parts you just have to improvise. Using vice grips is EXACTLY what I have done before too. Then you can hang them from cheap metal coat hangers. Coat hangers work VERY well because they are stiff and also flexible at the same time. Allowing you to form or bend them any way you want. The vice grips also add weight to the part to prevent it from flying around while painted. Just watch your eyes on the coat hangers. You can also use heavy duty magnets covered in plastic or tape.

Oh also put tape at the end of the pliers on the teeth to prevent them from biting into the part you are painting or from scratching them. You might also want to consider covering the vice grips with plastic and tape if you don't want them painted. Don't forget to always paint inside of the parts, then go to the outside.

Also one last little hint that you and everyone else will love. Since you are about to start priming and painting for the final process, try to think of any souvenir or key chain or anything you want painted the same exact color as your car. For example I have actually painted model cars at the exact same time I painted the full size real car. Looks really cool at car shows too. Same paint at the same time. Just anything you can think of for the office, at home, on your keychain. I am sure you will come up with something creative. Maybe a special wrench you use specifically on your car. A special lug nut removing tool. An item you can have even if your car is not around you. Something that will add sentimental value to help you remember all the hard work you have put into your car.

 

[Ronald6]

Love the kay chain and model idea. 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks for the advices again

The "painting an object" is an excellent idea. I even have 2 S3 models 1:18. One could go in. 2 S3 at the same time

Great

 

[Ibonibo]

Ahhhrrrrrggggg

What I did today:

Hung up the last big parts

Started to play Dexter:

And vaccumed cleaned again once. Let the vent blow out some dust. That's it....

So much trial and error, in getting the parts where I wanted them, how I wanted them.....

Drilling holes, hitting the metal reinforcement in the concrete *facepalm*

Finding the right wires thinkness to hang up. 1 hour gone *facepalm*

....

Whole day long.

And the frustration Dexter must going through when tapping of a room.

I need to first put some tap on the concrete before taping the plastic on as otherwise it doesn't stick.... double the work....

I just hate that I need to rereschedule the priming date back.... I guess that what you get when you prep and spray in the same room....

Tomorrow, taping off the rest of the room.
"Hanging" up the small bits. (hopefully a bit more succesful than today)
Cleaning....

I so hope tomorrow I finish up the prep work, or at least most of it, so saturday I prime.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Ahhhrrrrrggggg

What I did today:

Hung up the last big parts

Started to play Dexter:

And vaccumed cleaned again once. Let the vent blow out some dust. That's it....

So much trial and error, in getting the parts where I wanted them, how I wanted them.....

Drilling holes, hitting the metal reinforcement in the concrete *facepalm*

Finding the right wires thinkness to hang up. 1 hour gone *facepalm*

....

Whole day long.

And the frustration Dexter must going through when tapping of a room.

I need to first put some tap on the concrete before taping the plastic on as otherwise it doesn't stick.... double the work....

I just hate that I need to rereschedule the priming date back.... I guess that what you get when you prep and spray in the same room....

Tomorrow, taping off the rest of the room.
"Hanging" up the small bits. (hopefully a bit more succesful than today)
Cleaning....

I so hope tomorrow I finish up the prep work, or at least most of it, so saturday I prime.

Good times with Dexter plastic.

I would NOT tape plastic to the concrete. That is just way more work than necessary. I would just set something there that has weight to it. You could even set a long 2x4 to help keep the bottom of the plastic down. Or concrete blocks. Just something with weight. Much easier.

Make sure you run all your fans to see how the plastic will respond. Sometimes it will create a vacuum and pull the plastic in ward reducing the surface area of the room. Those parts of the plastic that come in, can easily be tapped to something to pull them back away from you.

Also the best part of the Dexter plastic is you can experiment and adjust the flow of your gun on that plastic. Just take your time. You are in the final steps of the paint process and you don't want to rush this part at all.

 

[Ibonibo]

I meant the concrete celling. Not the ground. But doesn't matter anymore eitherway. Why is below

I went in this morning and something had fallen on the ground.

Luckily it was not the doors

First I was like "What now"
Then I was like "Just nail the ***** down"

So I nailed it in

Back to the starting point.

For the other side I took a long thick wire and pulled it through the room. Sadly it was not long enough, but no biggie, just tightened an other wire on it.

Now it was long enough and taping off the other side was rather quick

But before I did this I put on my mask, headphones, ear protectors, and let the vent run while I was dusting (with the air gun) out the whole room and car.

=

Freaking Sandstorm

But as I opened up the rear wall (not a finished wall), I could also control air flow of the painter room. ( i need as you said, few stones to fix the plastic down on the ground, or a few wooden 2*2 or what ever floats the boat)

Well works like intended. I did this 3 times today (and let the dust settle after for 30 min).

First time I blew with the 5 bar (72psi), huge clouds came off the ground. Second time, Nearly nothing. Just before leaving. Nothing.

And all the dust didn't resettle somewhere in the room. Most flew out the gap in the wall as I held the air gun in that direction for minutes after putting the dust up.

I litterally watched the dust flow out :up:

So that was a simple, but genius advice @CAMAROBOY69

And as you said. This step is so important. Mess this up, and it will affect your finish, no matter how good you spray.
But as important as it is, it's one of the most frustrating jobs of them all.
But mehh, got this far, won't stop me

Tomorrow, last preps. Cleaning, perp sand.


And my darn doorhandle didn't arrive yet. I am a bit pissy about it. But that part could infact jump the prime step as it is pre primed ( and darn the quality of the Audi parts, the new fender is awesome. And I bought a package with all the screws and other stuff that is needed for a full replacement of all the parts, the bag has more than 20 parts )

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Whew I am so glad you found out right away about the results of plastic and tape. That's exactly what I wanted you to avoid. I knew the tape would not hold up the plastic. So at least you learned that right away before putting all the work in to tape it to the ceiling. That wire idea is great. As always, sometimes you just have to improvise. 👍

Dexter room is Looking great. Oh and also don't forget to blow the ceiling too. Very easy to forget because you would think with gravity it would just fall down. Make sure you hit it anyway to be safe.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks. Yeah good it fell down before I taped off the whole room

Or worse case during the paint process. Ohh the horror

One would not think, but that plastic adds some weight, even the wire, which was tightened really good bended under the weight (slightly)

The ceiling. I taught of it. BUT forgot. So thanks for the reminder. I wanted to tape off the part above the car, but that's a lot of work as it would mean drilling holes, dowel,... (maybe if I am hyper motivated tomorrow, but doubtful... )
Will do the ceiling tomorrow, as I wanted to respray the whole room again, at least one last time, at least. So 👍 (as always )

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

As long as there are no holes in the ceiling then no you don't need to plastic that. If you do see any holes in the ceiling make sure to plug them. But yes hit it with air for sure to remove any dust.

 

[Ibonibo]

There are holes where the cables come out, but it is filled with the cables. Should I cover them up? Any ideas how best to?

 

[Ibonibo]

So continuing the preparation

Weighting the pastic down on the ground DONE

Stones and wood used

(notice the light for lighning the side panel of the car. I do listen to your advice Camaroboy )

Evolution of the Fan

Position fixed

Filter for output

Intake

Some car filters will do the trick (I looked everywhere, nowhere to find universal fan filters, guess I don't live in an A/C country)

Done

Getting rid of danger Zones

Creating tables

Yeah, I use styrodur/por panels. layed over another, taped and wrapped in palstic. So I can stick stuff in it to fix parts.
I hope my plan goes through with fixing parts (more on that tomorrow)

This will be my plastic corner for priming.

This will be for small metal parts

Now why like this, seems no logic. Yes it has. Later on, I switch places. Plastic place will be for all the Ruby Black color. Metal place for blue 👍

Room got really sparse. I have around 1m2 to walk outside the cabin and this table.

Until I remembered that I can put some stuff in the car...

Painter Suit ready

Took my original mirrors, and those will get black treatement too. Later on I can decide wheter chrome or Black....

Tomorrow prep work should be done.

Monday I go in to get the door handle, some scotch bright pads (@Camaroboy : the green one should be good to "sand" the edges more carefully than with sanding paper??)

Monday = Prime day

 

[Ibonibo]

So today I wanted to demount the rear bump absorber. You know the big metal bar behind the plastic bumper.

What morons worked on my car?

Seriously. Those were trained Audi mecanics.

They took it off the first time. Now no getting it off...

Well

(above the hole is the screw in question)

No way on getting any tools in there. Even with a plier I don't get a good handle.

Wasted more than an hour on that dirt. Without getting it off.

I think tomorrow I get the big flex, real big and just cut it off. No time to waste an other hour on it.

Taped off the important parts like this in case my normal tapeing off would have a hole, get loose or anything.

The last part of rust (already done). This is the mounting point for the fender holder.

This is how some parts will get fixed,

Tapped on, and then stuck into the styro....

Also resanded 3/4 of all the plastics to finish....

Still looks like tomorrow can be primed, if I get the rest of the work done quickly enough....

We'll see tomorrow.

I must have finished the paint process in 7 days. Then my holidays are over (well they are over tomorrow, but took a bonus week to finish)