Ibo's Garage - TTRS3GTR

[CAMAROBOY69]

The furnace filters I was talking about are just about everywhere. You could easily find one at a hardware store. They are for a house furnace (heater) or house AC. But those automotive filters you are using will work well too. Really like how the intake and exhaust fan filter system is set up. That entire room is turning out killer!!!! 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

Nowhere. I went from pro shops to normal DYI shops. Non. They all looked at me like I was an alien asking for something extraordinary.

I admit, I didn't went to a shop, workshop that does nothing else than AC's. But it would have ment 3 hours gone.

So a bit of bad luck again today, but so much better now than during painting.
My compressor went into holidays. It's into repair, but that can take days.

Now they made me an offer I couldn't refuse:

But it were 2 hours gone, Vaporware

So the rear bump:

Got it off after a hefty fight with it, quite some time went in it, from getting it off to cleaning the edges,...

Sadly a lot of pushing and bending was needed to even get to the screw in order to cut it

As said it was a fight

One screw survived intact

As said, grinded off the edges so they are a bit cleaner, cleaned, and immediately primed

The dead bumper

The responsibles

Need a new one. 120 bucks ( i looked the price up before deciding to cut)

With the new compressor I bought new hose

More painter suits

Thaught this was really cool

In order to even try demounting the rear bumper I had to demount the rear hook

Probably sand it outside.

And I nearly done with sanding everything
(OEM primed objects, doors, front fenders) That should be all and then after a clean a a tape off, priming will be done.

@CAMAROBOY69 :

I want to save a day...

So I have a question : I can after 60min I put the primer on, put on the filler. That way I will not need to sand the whole car in between the prime-filler layers. And will only need to sand the filler flat.

Now can the sealant be put on the filler? Or must it be on the primer and not the filler?

If it ain't as safe, I will do the long way, but it would get a lot of work aside....

???

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

@CAMAROBOY69 :

I want to save a day...

So I have a question : I can after 60min I put the primer on, put on the filler. That way I will not need to sand the whole car in between the prime-filler layers. And will only need to sand the filler flat.

Now can the sealant be put on the filler? Or must it be on the primer and not the filler?

If it ain't as safe, I will do the long way, but it would get a lot of work aside....

???

Play it safe. It will be a longer process but I would apply the primer over the filler after you have it sanded. Then sealer to primer. Like this.

1. Primer
2. Apply filler / spot putty
   
3. Sand
4. Primer
5. Sealer (entire car and all parts)
6. Base Coat
7. Clear coat

BTW the back bumper actually looked pretty good. Those can be a nightmare and usually full of rust / dirt.

 

[Ibonibo]

Problem with that setup is I need the filler as last coat before the Base as the filler is the black one, And a black underground is needed / recommanded for the blue I have.

I get that it doesn't really matter, as long as you have complete coverage with one colour. But if playing safe,...

So back to the normal layout?

Metal:

- Epoxy
- Complete cure. Seal, then sand
- Filler
- Complete cure. Sand
- Base + clear (2layers)
- Cure over night. Sand. And another CC (2 layers)


Plastic:

- Prime
- dryed -> Filler (same day)
- Sand
- Base + CC (like on metal, 2 step CCoating)
???

Yeah the bumper would still be good if it wouldn't have cuts now. And as it essentially absorbs the shock of an impact before it goes into the chassis. I play it safe there too. New one. Not that it absorbs less now....
AS they took it off last time, I thaught it would be wise to do so too. I would have been better off just leaving it on.... :S

Also for the sanding in between, and not sanding through the edges, I got these:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/~/Scotch-Brite-Ultra-Fine-Hand-Pad-7448-6-in-x-9-in-20-pads-per-box-3-boxes-per-case?N=4294936006 5427538&Nr=AND(hrcy_id:GSS8YBZ4Y6gs_0025G41Q5R_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv)&rt=d

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Problem with that setup is I need the filler as last coat before the Base as the filler is the black one, And a black underground is needed / recommanded for the blue I have.

So back to the normal layout?

Metal:

- Epoxy
- Complete cure. Seal, then sand
- Filler
- Complete cure. Sand
- Base + clear (2layers)
- Cure over night. Sand. And another CC (2 layers)


Plastic:

- Prime
- dryed -> Filler (same day)
- Sand
- Base + CC (like on metal, 2 step CCoating)
???

Yeah the bumper would still be good if it wouldn't have cuts now. And as it essentially absorbs the shock of an impact before it goes into the chassis. I play it safe there too. New one. Not that it absorbs less now....

Yes that will work if that's the only option you have for now. Also for the CC you can add more than 2 coats. I personally like to go at least 3 coats. You really cant have too much clear. The more clear you have, the less likely you are to burn through the clear into the base while sanding. I would go 3 coats sand then 3 more coats but that's my personal preference.


OH ALSO!!!!

I HIGHLY recommend these for wet sanding the clear coat. They work incredible. Much better than the stiff blocks that you usually see. Plus these foam sanding blocks will greatly increase the life of your sandpaper because the reduce heat!

 

[Ibonibo]

Sounds good. 👍

That is the actual setup the paint maker recommands. Also I have to sand the bondo I put on off again as they recommand putting it inbetween the primer and filler.

Don't forget, I got the good filler. Not the 1K crap. Good 2k Filler

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Excellent. You talking about the 2k Mar Hyde I recommended or something similar?

Oh I posted a sanding block that I highly recommend for wet sanding the clear. It will extend the life of your sandpaper and prevent overheating of the clear surface.. It also helps keep water on the surface MUCH MUCH longer.

 

[Ibonibo]

👍 Will go on the quest to find those blocks. Thanks for the advice.

The Mar Hyde was the primer, if I remember. I couldn't find that make over here. Or at horrendous prices with no eta on arrival on the internet

I have these

2K Epoxy Primer:
http://www.google.com/translate?hl=en&ie=UTF8&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://www.autolack21-shop.de/Allround-Epoxy-Grundierung-1-Ltr

2K Filler
http://www.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://www.autolack21-shop.de/2K-HS-Fueller-schwarz-4-Ltr&sandbox=1

Bought the best products they have.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Yes perfect. You will love those blocks. Saves a lot of time and elbow grease. Any good paint shop should have those in stock for sure.

 

[Ibonibo]

Well hate to let hopes tumbles, but priming was not done today.
So that that's out now.

Progress:

Those took me one hour to fix somewhere, where thy didn't colide with something else.

And even now their emplacement is not perfect. But has to do...

The small stuff took so much time, even though I taught I knew how to fixate them, it took some trial and error.

Old

As one part is plastic the other metal, it was obvious the colour wouldn't hold like they did.

I will paint them with the correct primers and then it should hold.

Removed the bondo

Fixated these

Coke cans are filles with sand

Notice the roof rail mounted on top. As said not ideal, but wth.

Need to mount the rear spoiler there too. Quite crowded

Done

Doors are sanded too. Leaves the fenders.
The small stuff took a hell lot of time to sand, fixate, control if it doesn't fly away with air....

I'm settled for tomorrow now though.

fenders sanding, a last vaccum, tape off. And go. That should be more than realistic

And an other problem. The passanger door handle. Ordered a new one a while ago. Had it but never controled it. Well today I did. Turns out it's the wrong one. It's the uk one So inverted driver side. Morons.

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Looking great. The small stuff does indeed take a long time to get situated because as you said it flies away or gets knocked around. Make sure the coke cans with the sand, are covered so sand doesn't fly out. Other than that looking really good. Don't forget to spray the test patterns on the Dester plastic to dial in your gun and spray pattern. Very important for the base coat. Go very light careful coats with the base coat. Base is by far the most important, critical, time consuming to spray. Truly take your time with the base coat. Once the base is done the clear is VERY easy.

Don't beat yourself up over the passenger door handle. Even if you have to paint and install that later, it will still match. Just remember, paint everything inside, then out last. Especially the base coat and clear coat. Take your time, let the paint dry properly, and breathe. haha

I wish you the best of luck. Your attention to detail and the ability to truly listen to advice has been beyond impressive. All the hard work truly will pay off and you are almost there!! So exciting!!

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks 👍

Really good advices coming all day long from you. Helped a great deal 👍

So today, big day and then

I don't know why, but one of the zinc sprays is bitching around big time. Real big. Not solvant resistant.

Remember way back, I had a light silver spray, and a dark matt one.

Well the matt one didn't hold while I cleaned the car today (in prep for the prime)

The tissues were full of color.

Only one way, it needs to go off in order to have a good base for the epoxy. Not ****ing around, or trying to save a day with the result of the paint not sticking. Not again.

Again a lot of luck involved as I "only" used one can of that crap. But still so much work getting it all off.

Whole passanger side. Front Window trim, rear boot. Driver door jam

AS one can imagine getting it out of all the small cracks and jams again (I don't know how many times I went over the same spots now, on an intact paint, I would have preped several cars with the work done ).

And no I wasn't as stupid to sand it all. Poured solvant over it and wiped it off, Which was easier than sanding, but still... a whole day gone... well sanding would have costed 2-3 days....

What one can of bad paint (don't know if bad batch or what went wrong as the other zinc spray holds perfectly). All the sanding I did on that bad zinc. Today. Probably 2-3 days lost because of 10 bucks of bad paint

Ibo angry

Plan:

Thur : Prime metal. Dry. Cover up. Prime plastic. Dry. Filler Plastic.
Fri : Seal car, metal. Sand primer. If time, Filler metal
Sat : Sand Filler. Base +CC
Son : Sand + CC

Though that's ultra tight. And plans. Never work like intended (A-Team excluded) If I don't get it done that fast, I will work on the car in the evenings to finish it up....

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Very sorry to hear about that. That's why I usually just use epoxy primer and mar Hyde for everything I do when it comes to primer. Never had a single bad experience with them at all. I don't mess with zinc. Still very sorry to hear that you got a bad batch. At least you caught it now instead of later. At least you removed it using the solvent instead of sanding.

Poor zink (Loki) gets no love.

 

[Ibonibo]

Yeah imagine, you just wipe the car off real quick. You don't notice it. You will think it just some dirts or sanding powder.
It would ruin the whole thing down the road.

Yeah I think that the little rust that could have formed during the time would have meant less work to get rid off than this. And the red primer, and the other zink holds up against the solvant so those are good to epoxy over
But it's off now. The car is ready to be taped off tomorrow. All parts are sanded and fixed, hung up. And then I can go.

Just need to warp the jacks with plastic. I need to remember that (memo in cell written )

Also. After priming I will reinstall the hood. I can't sand it like this. Plus, it's "advised" to hung up your parts like they are on the car (while I did my best to do so, not everything was possible, place issues & missing pro holders)

 

[Ibonibo]

Didn't get to the priming.

Took one hour to clean the jams, Took 3 good hours to tap off, took 2 hours to swipe everything down.

19:30... ohh well good to go, we go a bit late but wth...

Ahhh need to clean the pistol. The horror, in the pistol was still colour, primer, or something.

20:15 ... oh well a bit late, but wth

Poured pistol cleaner in the gun. Started to spray. after 30 seconds... no air....

Looked at the gauge 8 bar

Dialed it down. The wholeknob turned. Not fitted correctly. Let the air out of the tank. Reattached the gauge.

Still no air coming through the filters. Without them it's fine....

Looked at the time

21:30 o'clock.

Ahh **** it. Calling it a day.



Tomorrow, I figure out the compressor problem, (bet it's a fault I did ) Wipe the stuff down withthe dust tissues. and Whole day priming .

No other problem coming in between. No other work to do that takes more time than anticipated.

I am running soo late on the whole thing. Need to figure out something.

Ohh yes found some rust on the Fender (the big metal triangle thing holding the fender). Glad I found that as it's a support beam, and would have attacked the fender from underneath.

I have only made 2 pics today.One of the rust and one of the car half taped off. Shows how busy I was and how much time has gone into wrapping the car.

But now I have found out the most efficent way to tape it off 👍 Gonna be real quick from now on here with the tape. Also covered the roof, sky, window in thick plastic first. So it's safe if the tape had a hole or something

Pics tomorrow. Pre / post 👍

And always remember I am more eager than you to see it done

 

[Ibonibo]

So I guess pics will do the talking, will elaborate after the pics, some more problems, but at least some real progress

The 2 promised pics of yesterday

Half way

New rust gone

Today

2 coats on every Metal. Fenderholder-holder not forgotten, sills, roof rail , everything good plastered in.

But now for the problems.

How many guys you need to repair a compressor ??
First a buddy of mine came. Nothing. Than a worker of the company.Nothing. Still 8 bar. Dialing down always resulted in shutdown.
Went into the shop to get urgency help. They promised they came in the afternoon. So I waited, Prepared a bit. Like stuffingt he holes (forgot so many). Tapped of the threads,...

(yeah I know the rear wheels, I need new wheels and the tires probably have a tire punch from standing a year... but I will tape them off in the future, somehow slipped)

Then at 3, I was getting really anxious. I opened the tank to let the air out (safer work ) and demounted the valve myself out of pure helplessness And see there, just cleaned it. Remounted and it worked like intended. I guess they screwed it on so tight, turning the knob resulted in turning into abyss...

Then during painting, the gun was an absolute nightmare. Spouted, stopped for a ms..... Guess I didn't clean it enough. And it was really filthy.... So I brought it home, gonna disassemble every screw, every part, clean it, and reassemble in hoping to achieve a better paint picture.

This resulted in noses, runnings,.... Will sand and as it is too thin probably after 2 coats, I will probably sand through. If that's the case, it all gets another 2 layers of epoxy.

I should just have enough of it to do it like that.

Used 2 liters of epoxy and 1 liter of hardener 👍 3 liters epoxy on the car. Not that bad

And ohhh the mask, the first one was an absolut pain to work with. Totally uncomfortable. The 3M one. Heaven After 3 1/2 hours of spraying. No pause (apart from mixing and filtering). No face ache when taking off 👍

So probably sanding tomorrow....

Then another layer of epoxy.

And the hood definitely comes back on the car. I can never sand it in that position. And painting is not an ease in that position.

Doors too. Too wack to paint the hanging. No place and they tilt right and left slightly which is annoying.

Think that's it what I had to say for today

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Whew luckily you are a very patient person because that's a handful. At least you got the compressor going again. Bummer about the gun. That's why I mentioned I use 2 different guns when painting. 1 gun for primer, another gun for the base / clear. Also make sure to check the internal filter in the gun. Many don't even know it has an internal filter. They are usually very small and if it is plugged you could remove it completely if you don't have time to get another filter for the gun.

Primer coat is looking good and the runs wont be too hard to deal with. But you MUST get that gun worked out before you spray the base coat. That is by far the most critical. If anything you can even adjust the gun so more air comes out and less paint. You absolutely do not want runs at all. Better to spray way too light with many layers as apposed to runs. If you get a run you are going go crazy like Mark Walburg in your gif above.

 

[Ibonibo]

👍

I will look for filters and seals (?) Clean them, replace them tomorrow morning if necessary.

Worst case, really worst case : new gun.

Question. What is the upper scew doing. The second is for air/color ratio ? But the first one?? No clue...

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Oh been a while since I used that gun but if I remember correctly it controls the amount of paint or pressure being pushed through the gun. I believe if you turn it in all the way or out all the way its almost like a control valve. You can reduce or raise the pressure with that. I might be wrong but I believe that's the right screw . Try screwing it all the way in and I think it will pretty much shut off the gun. Might be the other way around. One of the screws will allow you to shut the paint off completely so you are only spraying air. I do that just before I paint to get any remaining dust off the car. That's why I said experiment on Dexter plastic so you get to know the settings better. You can also unscrew the front tip a little and rotate it 90 degrees to get a vertical or horizontal spray pattern.

Ahh I think the lower screw also sets the distance you squeeze the trigger in. If you screw that all the way in, you will hardly be able to squeeze the trigger.

Edit!! OH OH!!! There should be a little vacuum line on that gold "thing" on top of the can. Try hooking a little clear vacuum line from that end to the other end and see if that helps your gun. Almost missed that!!! I had that get plugged on mine once and it sprayed terrible.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks.

I tested a bit, but probably should have tried max/min settings to really see that it does.

The vaccum line, I was asking me that question, because on the Plastidip gun it's a common mod

Thanks 👍

Off to the gun cleaning

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Yes I remember one time that vacuum line area got plugged and I had to keep unscrewing the paint container to let air in so the gun would spray properly. It was a nighmare! So make sure to keep an eye on that for sure and experiment with the vacuum line to see if its better or worse for you. Usually takes a few minutes until you start to see a difference of the pressure in the little container.

 

[Ibonibo]

Resolved the gun problem. Really easy

Amazon does have everything

One high pressure for the primer/filler products (20 bucks)

One low pressure for the base and clear (50 bucks)

💡👍

Not expensive stuff. Both for a 100 with express delivery Both have good reviews. I guess it will be better what I paint now with and if they don't hold long, they weren't expensive

 

[Ibonibo]

Well so today was sanding the primer on, so the runs are gone and I could prime another coat on it.

Marvellously, I didn't sand as much through as I thaught 👍 If i had done 1 other layer on it, I probably would be good to filler. Probably.

So getting an other layer of expoy on it. Than slightly sand it, and then good to filler it up.

Amazingly the epoxy is as advertised. Super strong., but so damn easy to sand. It was a pleasure to sand it down. Really


My 150 grid paper. Last papers
Pack had 50 in it. All gone on the S3. As last year did a whole pack of 80 and 120 grid.
240 is also already getting slim. Might want stock up on those...

From here on out, only block sanding. No nacked hand anymore. That should guarentee me a smooth finish after all the layers I will plaster on

Looking stunningly smooth. Ibo likes

My workplace. Hobochair included

Other side

It has been a time since the car was uniformly coloured.

Rear done:

Innerside done:

Outside will be done tomorrow when it's back on the car

Rrrrggghhhhnnnnnngggg

As said, sanding was with ease and pleasure. If the filler is as promised it should also be a pie to sand.
That's a refreshing welcomed positive thing. (at least)

Whole car is done as it stands there. Tomorrow, rest of hood, trunk, and fenders, + small stuff which I already began... Clean, retape... 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

Well apart from retapping the car, everything else has been done.

I will retape it tomorrow and wipe it down...

I rehang the fenders...
So much better now... No tilting, swaying,...

Installed a light above one of the fenders because it was too dim

Tomorrow the rest. Complete preparation for painting tuesday with the new guns. So I won't clean the nasty one....

A proper and even coverage will result in less sanding, more product on the car = 👍

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Looking great and glad the primer sanded as well as I said it would. Good call on getting new guns. Top loaders are so much better for painting.

 

[Punknoodle]

You are the man @CAMAROBOY69 you have taken a good amount of time to provide help in this thread and it's bloody awesome.

@Ibonibo great job so far, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished result. You have far more patience than I could ever muster.

 

[Ibonibo]

Just came home to grab a coffee and wait for some new scrubs gloves.

Thanks @Punknoodle Yeah @CAMAROBOY69 is doing a fantastic job in guiding me through the steps, and it helps so much. And he helped in overcoming the inital fear and just start.

Well the High Pressure gun works flawlessly on the plastic primer and filler, and still sprays fine after 3 de- remounts. 👍
And that for 16 bucks Not 1 run

So plastic is done tot he filler layer, but the rear bumper needs heavy resand and an other layer to cover up.Probably.

Now I will return and epoxy the last 3 liters on the metals 👍

Pics in a few hours when I am done.

Thanks at all the people commenting and liking. It motivates to write the "blog" and the return reactions are balm for my sore fingers

 

[Ibonibo]

As yesterday was no update (too tired),

I update today. Big time :haha:

So yesterday:

Hood installed back

Needed to take the "filter" off as it was blocking all the air. Health before dust...

No worries, found good use for it

Find the double

The set was cheaper than seperate parts, plus this (see the crack = old paint)

Today, finished tapping off...

Serial clean

One part done:

All plastics primed and fillered

Rear bumper might need a respray after the sanding, but the pic doesn't really show

*PAUSE*

Uncovering the metal

Good I did cover it up

Last cup

Would say : good day. At least productive, lot of progress :yeay:

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

@Punknoodle
Thanks for the compliments. Its always rewarding to help and see the wonderful progress he is making. I am just so glad he has taken the provided advice.
@Ibonibo
Yw for all the helpful advice. Really glad everything is working well for you. You are getting so close and doing such an excellent job.

I will be on vacation next week but I will try to stop in and see your progress. If you run into any issues during the paint or clear coat process send me a PM so it will notify me via email. Then I will try to get back with you asap.

 

[Ronald6]

@CAMAROBOY69 and @Ibonibo, or "How to paint a car from thousands of miles away."