It's a shame it takes all that work to get the most out of the cars. It's why I leave it at whatever setting and learn to adapt in general.
It's not that hard, really. The first car, maybe half an hour? All the rest of them, between thirty seconds and ten minutes depending on how much you care.
What's involved: One time setup with the Wheel Check tool (
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1473510.page) to get your wheels internal friction dialed out. Kind of fun. Make sure you've got your drivers and everything set up right with as much of the dampers and springs turned off as you can handle.
In terms of per car, it's just getting the force output from iRacing right so that you're using the maximum range for your wheel without clipping off the bigger forces. Each car is different because of different tyre sizes/compounds, suspension and steering angles and power steering.
There are values available for most common wheels for most cars, so you can get a reasonable result with minimal effort. Or you can do full on analysis (
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1488137.page) of a few laps which is how people arrived at those values to start with, but that's long and tedious. Or you can just do what I do and watch the FFB meter out of the corner of your eye. Flashes red too much, turn it down. Never flashes red, turn it up. Pretty quickly you'll get to something close to optimal, and you get a bit of a feel for when it's clipping anyway.
With the laser scanned tracks, there's really a lot of information to be felt through the wheel. Depending on the car it may make more or less of a difference, but driving with no FFB is a nightmare so I figure driving with good FFB is worth it at least in pleasure, if not in speed.
I just spent the last half hour feeling out the back straight at Mosport through the wheel finding the least bumpy parts, so that I can go full throttle down it in the Lotus 49. Flying past people as they spin out is fun. It does have uses.
i work afternoons lol.
