Is simvibe worth it?

  • Thread starter snoopybg
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No. in Chassis mode! I have 2 of them on the 2 sides of the seat and one under the pedals!
I use the default effects, because after 6months of experiments I found that the default setup is the best!
Engine, Fronte and rear suspensions, Gear change and impacts!
For me you don't need to add more effects, because with the rear and front suspension effects you are able to feel every thing like road textures and bumps!
and add other effects does saturate the overall effect and scatters the other effects! is like to throw too many stones in a small well of water!
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How do you connect the tablet to the pc?
 
How do you connect the tablet to the pc?
You need to download an application like Dash meter pro and then connect them to your Sim by using a specific plugin provided with the application(you need wireless internet)! these applications are very useful for me, because they give you every information you need about the car( oil and brake temp', tires pressure....) rain percentage, aire and track temp', fuel usage and quantity and a lot of others information during the race! I run the same application in 2 different tablet and I use them during my rfactor2 league with the Civic!
 
How do you connect the tablet to the pc?
You need to download an application like Dash meter pro and then connect them to your Sim by using a specific plugin provided with the application(you need wireless internet)! these applications are very useful for me, because they give you every information you need about the car( oil and brake temp', tires pressure....) rain percentage, aire and track temp', fuel usage and quantity and a lot of others information during the race! I run the same application in 2 different tablet and I use them during my rfactor2 league with the Civic
Ok, but those applications have to be compatible with the game I am playing, don't they?
Yea, iRacing, rfactor1 and 2!
 
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Also couldn't get X-Sim to work. Directions are a little old if you download the latest "aluminum" version. Worked right in testing. Couldn't get it to engage in games though. Granted I only have one audio card, but I was dedicating that to X-Sim. I didn't care about getting audio. Just wanted to see if it was worth buying a second sound card.

Problem may have been when he talks about linking the axis and output. For the life of me, I can't figure out what he did. If I click on Synaptrix, my screen already looked identical to the screen caps. So I couldn't figure out what more I needed to do.

I've got X-Sim running using the guides. The guides are for older versions of X-Sim so it's not easy.
It took me some time before I realised I had to press "Start" in X-Sim Converter before getting some output...:rolleyes: THAT part wasn't mentioned in the guides (OK, call me stupid :D). Did you press Start, Paul33993...?

I recommend testing X-Sim using a headphone connected to the stereo output of your second soundcard (it's the green connector): you should hear the engine humming while driving. Output is sent to both left and right channels, so you can drive 2 shakers if you want (same signal though). Start with RPM effect only. Add 'gear change' later when the output is working. A note with the gear change effect: in the math setup, third step (in the lower left of the window) it should be set to 50% and "add result value" or else you will lose the RPM effect.
Also recommended: turn the treble on your amplifier down because I can hear a ticking noise in my headphones when the RPM is changing. By turning the treble down you can avoid this.

No idea yet what it feels like since I'm waiting for my shakers to arrive...
 
I've got X-Sim running using the guides. The guides are for older versions of X-Sim so it's not easy.
It took me some time before I realised I had to press "Start" in X-Sim Converter before getting some output...:rolleyes: THAT part wasn't mentioned in the guides (OK, call me stupid :D). Did you press Start, Paul33993...?

I recommend testing X-Sim using a headphone connected to the stereo output of your second soundcard (it's the green connector): you should hear the engine humming while driving. Output is sent to both left and right channels, so you can drive 2 shakers if you want (same signal though). Start with RPM effect only. Add 'gear change' later when the output is working. A note with the gear change effect: in the math setup, third step (in the lower left of the window) it should be set to 50% and "add result value" or else you will lose the RPM effect.
Also recommended: turn the treble on your amplifier down because I can hear a ticking noise in my headphones when the RPM is changing. By turning the treble down you can avoid this.

No idea yet what it feels like since I'm waiting for my shakers to arrive...

I played around with it some more. Solved some problems, created some new ones. I'm still trying to just use my single sound card to drive the shakers (works in testing) and ignore audio. My 2nd sound card comes tomorrow, so I'll try harder then.

EDIT: I think I give up. Assetto Corso doesn't even do anything. If I hit Play game, it'll boot AC, but I can't start the other program. It tells me it can't start because AC isn't running. I've tried hitting this button at every stage, even when it's booted AC and I'm sitting on the circuit with my engine revving.

Then I tried rf2. By hitting the Start game, it booted rf2 up. Then I hit start and and the start button is shaking like it's supposed to (another click will then turn it off). Unfortunately, that doesn't give me anything in-game.

This is after I redid everything and set the two sound cards up right. When testing, the shaker works perfectly on the mobo soundcard.

Think I'm just going to go the other direction and simplify. This whole thing is getting way too complicated with too many cords. I'm spending more time tinkering than actual racing anymore. Probably just ebay the amp and shaker and start enjoying racing again.
 
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As a start, I'm thinking of buying a single Aura AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker for mounting to my chair but I have a couple questions on amplification if I am planning on using SimVibe (mostly focused on pCARS, AC, R3E/DTM, F1 2013, Dirt 3)
1) Does it matter which output I use from my MB integrated sound card (Realtek ALC892)
Center/SUB OUT
Front OUT (line)
Side OUT
Rear OUT
2) Can I use a standard AV receiver? I have a Pioneer Elite w/80W x 7 channels 8-ohms, passive Sub out.
If so, does it matter which channel I connect to power the Aura (may add another down the road)

Note, I only have the integrated Realtek but I believe I can use this for the Aura and system sound through HDMI. The only other variable is I need headset (Corsair Vengeance 2100 USB) sound while using the Realtek for the Aura.

Thanks
 
Thanks fakkrakr, that guide "I think" has answer a couple questions but I am getting mixed messages on what's required from my Google research - I guess I won't know what will work for sure until I get my bass transducers connected.

I do have another question for those that have dabbled in this type of project...

As I have stated, I was planning on using my integrated Realtek to drive the shakers (thru amp) and use my headset for sound. But, in Windows 8.1 I have to manually select either the Realtek card or my Corsair headset - Windows won't output sound to both at the same time. Is this going to be an issue with SimVibe, or does SimVibe had a way to utilize the sound card while Windows is outputting a signal to my headset?
 
Im sorry I cant directly answer your question, but I know that you can run simvibe off of one sound card if one of your outputs is using optical out (just assign simvibe to use one and windows to use the other), with windows 7 anyway. So with simvibe (within the software) you choose what source is going to be used for simvibe. So I would think it will work the same with a usb device.
 
Since your Corsair headset is an USB headset, it has its own soundcard built in. So yes, you can let SimVibe use the Realtek soundcard. If you set your Corsair headset as the default soundcard it will output the normal game sound through the headset.
But... the Aura Pro bass shaker is a 4 ohm bass shaker and your amplifier can drive 8 ohm speakers. Do not connect 4 ohm speakers (shakers) to an 8 ohm amplifier! You may damage your amplifier if you do: it gets too hot. You can connect 8 ohm speakers (shakers) to a 4 ohm amplifier though.
I'm using an old Pioneer 5.1 amplifier with analog inputs connected to my Realtek soundcard. Since it's an 8 ohm amplifier, I bought Sinuslive 8 ohm bass shakers. They work very well. My headphones are connected to a Soundblaster X-Fi soundcard. But as I said, you should be able to use an USB headset too.
I do recommend to mount a bass shaker to your pedals as well :).
 
Since your Corsair headset is an USB headset, it has its own soundcard built in. So yes, you can let SimVibe use the Realtek soundcard. If you set your Corsair headset as the default soundcard it will output the normal game sound through the headset.
But... the Aura Pro bass shaker is a 4 ohm bass shaker and your amplifier can drive 8 ohm speakers. Do not connect 4 ohm speakers (shakers) to an 8 ohm amplifier! You may damage your amplifier if you do: it gets too hot. You can connect 8 ohm speakers (shakers) to a 4 ohm amplifier though.
I'm using an old Pioneer 5.1 amplifier with analog inputs connected to my Realtek soundcard. Since it's an 8 ohm amplifier, I bought Sinuslive 8 ohm bass shakers. They work very well. My headphones are connected to a Soundblaster X-Fi soundcard. But as I said, you should be able to use an USB headset too.
I do recommend to mount a bass shaker to your pedals as well :).

I planned on connecting two Aura's (yes, ordered two) in series, both in series is 8 ohms.

Yes, I will be having one shaker on seat, the other on the pedals.
 
I have been using X-Sim with the bass shaker plugin for the last months, using two shakers: one on the seat and one on the pedals ('double mono'). X-Sim is very difficult to setup, I took me several hours to get it right. But in the end it gives you a good impression of what it could be. Yes, you read that right, could be. X-Sim (or the bass shaker plugin) is badly written. It has a lag of about 0.1 second, so if you drive over a bump or collide into something, the shakers respond a bit too late. Also the engine vibration is not correct: if you slowly push down the throttle, the tone in the shaker stops for a very short time and continues on a higher pitch. Hard to describe, but the shaker makes a clicking noise when it does that and the pitch is not fluent when it goes up. X-Sim also often stopped working after 15-20 minutes, or suddenly decided not to look at the engine RPM anymore, with a stuck tone in the shakers as a result (the other effects keep working).

I'm using SimVibe now: hardly any lag, no strange clicks, very configurable, multi-channel outputs, each channel can be configured separately. Race07 on Valencia is making me grin from ear to ear. The manual could be better though.
So to answer the opening post's question: yes, it's worth it, although a bit expensive.
 
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Interesting. I was going to sit down and force myself to get X-Sim working before my Oculus DK2 arrived, but that's not the most encouraging. I only have one Aura shaker hooked up. And honestly, only really care about the engine. But it sounds like Simvibe is a lot better even for that. Kind of a shame, because it seems like X-Sim has profiles for some flight sims too. Which obviously will also be great with VR. So I was hoping they'd be equal in quality if you could get past the setup issues.

Wish there was a third party that would enter the arena. Someone with a wide range of support, streamlined setup, and a reasonable cost. Value is entirely subjective, but the Simvibe cost puts me off so much. Especially since it's easily the most expensive component of my shaker purchases, has terrible DRM that needs manual resets on serial keys, and is just limited to a few games. If even one of those three elements were better addressed, I wouldn't be so stubborn about buying it.
 
Question for you guys, Picked up a Simulator kit from buttkicker the other day and ive tried 3 different mounting position's and i hate to say it, but the Good ol BKG2 on the Socket trick Directly in to the seat bolt has Absolutely BLOWN away the sim kit which im absolutely baffled by. 2 shaker's should shake a LOT more than a Single shaker.

here's what ive tried so far and each mount has been tried in Stereo and Mono mode (Yes Wired correct polarity) Unless the White is Ground and Black is Positive then i have it backwards but as long as both are the same it should be moot.

First try was thinking along the lines of the Socket mount, Use the seat bolt but this hardly gave Any Feedback and i had a distinct rattle or Something from the left hand side.




Next was a Piece of Angle L that I used M4 bolts to hold in place. Again Very little feedback and the rattle was still on the left hand side.




So i went to a mount style ive seen before on Rig's and seat frames. Again Very little feedback ( albeit more than the first 2 mounts) But Im Seriously at a loss here as to what the heck is going on. Yes you can see this is a 2dof seat mover seat frame but ive gone back to back with the Gamer2 hooked up to the "socket" and there's NO Question there's either something wrong with my Sim kit or Im missing something completely.






Upon closer inspection it appears the Shaker on the Left side has a Cracked mount, Maybe that's the rattle im hearing but that does not say anything for the lack of Shaking. Also on the latest testing in bridged mono mode the Shaker's started getting abnormally warm (BKG2 Never gets warm even when the Clipping light is going) Also the Amp started "clicking" and half cutting in and out. Uff, Now what.
 
If you put your hand on the shakers, do they vibrate (a lot)? If not, unmount them and hold them in your hand: do they vibrate more now? If yes, you may experience dampening by the frame of your seat. Did you isolate the frame from the ground, using some sort of rubber? I did and it transfers the vibration to my seat much better now.
Did you connect the two shakers in parallel or in serial (thinking of an ohms problem regarding the heat)?
 
If you put your hand on the shakers, do they vibrate (a lot)? If not, unmount them and hold them in your hand: do they vibrate more now? If yes, you may experience dampening by the frame of your seat. Did you isolate the frame from the ground, using some sort of rubber? I did and it transfers the vibration to my seat much better now.
Did you connect the two shakers in parallel or in serial (thinking of an ohms problem regarding the heat)?



Honestly they Dont shake as much as the BKG2, mounted or not which i find strange, They are the exact same thing just with 2 little pieces of foam on the piston........ I Already tried the Gamer 2 on the seat frame on a socket and while it wasn't AS powerful as on the socked INTO the seat itself, Its more powerful than 2 lfe's mounted essentially exactly the same way.

Re Wiring, I was Wiring everything in Parallel and I now realize that is wrong 🤬 but I just tried in Series, Mono mode and the shaker's got hot again.....WTF is going on here.

Re Isolation, Again this Seat frame is on a CV joint and mounted to the base of the rig, there's no way to really isolate the Seat Frame/Base from the Main base.

 
Honestly they Dont shake as much as the BKG2, mounted or not which i find strange, They are the exact same thing just with 2 little pieces of foam on the piston........ I Already tried the Gamer 2 on the seat frame on a socket and while it wasn't AS powerful as on the socked INTO the seat itself, Its more powerful than 2 lfe's mounted essentially exactly the same way.

Re Wiring, I was Wiring everything in Parallel and I now realize that is wrong 🤬 but I just tried in Series, Mono mode and the shaker's got hot again.....WTF is going on here.

Re Isolation, Again this Seat frame is on a CV joint and mounted to the base of the rig, there's no way to really isolate the Seat Frame/Base from the Main base.

Try hooking your new kickers to your bk2 amp and vice versa to see if you can see what is defective either the new amp or the kickers. To me it sounds like your new amp may be defective.
 
YAY a Solution has been found. After another conversation with tech support, Andrew luden really understood this was a very unique situation and is willing to swap out my LFE mounts for Gamer mounts.



THANK YOU BUTTKICKER for making this right.
 
Thanks fakkrakr, that guide "I think" has answer a couple questions but I am getting mixed messages on what's required from my Google research - I guess I won't know what will work for sure until I get my bass transducers connected.

I do have another question for those that have dabbled in this type of project...

As I have stated, I was planning on using my integrated Realtek to drive the shakers (thru amp) and use my headset for sound. But, in Windows 8.1 I have to manually select either the Realtek card or my Corsair headset - Windows won't output sound to both at the same time. Is this going to be an issue with SimVibe, or does SimVibe had a way to utilize the sound card while Windows is outputting a signal to my headset?

I finally have everything working - can get a little expensive but it's now hard to race without tactile feedback! Luckily SimVibe has support for everything I am racing on the PC.

I ended up with a Dayton APA150 150w power amp, two Aura AST-2B-4 Pro Shakers, and an old SoundBlaster I had lying around. I am using SimVibe's extensions mode - Seat and Pedals. The amp's fan has yet to come on and the shakers barely get warm but the vibrations/jolts can be VERY strong - startling at times!

I had a hard time with the $89 cost of admission (SimVibe) but I bit the bullet and happy I did. This software has a nice interface, easy to setup, very configurable, and Simexperience has been very responsive to my idiot questions. Some will pay $80 for a limited edition of a console game, compared to that its not too bad especially considering its contribution to the virtual racing immersion level.
 

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