Keep on Losing in European Events!

[Nz]

I have an Audi A4 Touring Car and I compete in the European Event and the Even is called Deutsche Touring Car MeisterShaft and when Im on Lap 3 or 4 my tyres gets really worn out and losses grip/traction so I decide to go to the Pit stop and have Soft Compound with Refill Fuel and A-Spec but by the time I'm finish all the other people have gone past and I'm now placed 6th place but I get back to 3rd Place and can't overtake more. What should I do? Anything you guys could help me about the settings that I need to change so I dont need to go to pitstop. Thanks

 

[Obscevator]

What tires you running? If tire wear is your problem you should consider changing to harder tires.. soft tires may give more traction but wear out aprox. 2 laps earlyer.. this is my personal experience..

 

[BobK]

R3/RM tires, the tires the car comes equipped with, are the tires to use in the DTM. They may turn yellow at Opera Paris, but they'll last. If they're not you may need to review your driving style.

Actually, outside of "just to try them out" when the game was still new to me, I haven't bought any R4 or R5 tires at all.

 

[Epic B]

Harder tires are a must. R2 or R3 at the softest. R3 tires should have enough in them to last 5 laps.
You could also try a different car. You could try the Alfa 155, as it has 4WD, so it might be easier to control than an FR as the tires warm up.

But it doesn't truly matter what car you use, you just have to choose the right tires. The 190 Evo II can win easy if you know what you're doing.

 

[Nz]

What tires you running? If tire wear is your problem you should consider changing to harder tires.. soft tires may give more traction but wear out aprox. 2 laps earlyer.. this is my personal experience..

I bought the expensive Tyres they cost around 43k probably R4 or something like that it's the softest tyre.

 

[Nz]

Harder tires are a must. R2 or R3 at the softest. R3 tires should have enough in them to last 5 laps.
You could also try a different car. You could try the Alfa 155, as it has 4WD, so it might be easier to control than an FR as the tires warm up.

But it doesn't truly matter what car you use, you just have to choose the right tires. The 190 Evo II can win easy if you know what you're doing.

I might try that 190 Evo II but not advanced in Tuning part. Do you know how much it will cost for that Alfa 155. Yeah with FR, my back wheels gets really hot and when I accelerate I can just feel my tyres screaming for help.

 

[Nz]

R3/RM tires, the tires the car comes equipped with, are the tires to use in the DTM. They may turn yellow at Opera Paris, but they'll last. If they're not you may need to review your driving style.

Actually, outside of "just to try them out" when the game was still new to me, I haven't bought any R4 or R5 tires at all.

Yes I think I do need to review my driving style, what I do is when a corner comes up I full brake then accelerate, I don't gradually put the brakes on.

 

[BobK]

It occurred to me that you may have equipped the car with a Stage Three or Stage Four turbo. If so, take it off again. Any of the cars eligible for the DTM can win it completely stock, exactly as it comes when you win/purchase it. That includes the Mercedes 190 Evo II (but I'm not sure I'd call it an easy win).

You can win the Alfa 155 in the La Festa Italiano series, also in the European Hall; you can't purchase it.

The easiest cars to win this series with are the Mercedes CLK Touring Car, either of the Audis or the Opel/Vauxhall Astra. But it can still definitely be won with the Merc 190 Evo II, the Opel/Vauxhall Calibra, or the Alfa 155. The car I personally have gone fastest with is the Mercedes CLK Touring Car (prize car from the Legends of the Silver Arrow manufacturers race) but honestly, not by much.

 

[Open Addict]

Yes I think I do need to review my driving style, what I do is when a corner comes up I full brake then accelerate, I don't gradually put the brakes on.

This should not matter, as I am a button masher from way back. This event is winnable with this driving style. I would say wrong tyres.

 

[Epic B]

I might try that 190 Evo II but not advanced in Tuning part. Do you know how much it will cost for that Alfa 155. Yeah with FR, my back wheels gets really hot and when I accelerate I can just feel my tyres screaming for help.

I didn't do any tuning to win with the 190. And you can't buy the 190 or the 155 DTM cars. If you want them, the 190 is a prize from Schwarzwald Liga B that can be sold for 371,874. The 4WD 155 is a prize from the Italian races in the European events. With a little concentration, though not much, either car can easily take the cup. In the future, I'm planning to give the 155 a whirl, and maybe do it with the 190 again.

Just remember to use harder tires. I think I used R3s when I used the 190, and I will try R1s. Perhaps you could try R2 tires. And adjust the gearing too. Closer gearing would help acceleration, especially at the more technical tracks. Try a shorter (In other words, numerically higher) final drive and/or a lower auto setting if you don't want to set individual gears.

 

[Bopop4]

IThe 4WD 155 is a prize from the Italian races in the European events.

The 155 is 4WD?
I was sure that it was an FR.

 

[Epic B]

The Mercedes 190 is an FR car. The Alfa 155 is a 4WD car. I wouldn't be surprised if you're confusing the two. The Opel Calibra is also 4WD.

 

[Bopop4]

There's no way that I would confuse the Merc and Alfa lol.
Calibra is 4WD too?!? My world is now turned upside down...

 

[Epic B]

The rules and regulations for DTM racing was different back then. So we get 4WD racing cars. And besides, the 155 and Calibra road cars were FF, who would want a front drive DTM car?

 

[Bopop4]

Yeah, but when I drove the 155 or Calibra it didn't seem like it was 4WD, it must have a very small front power bias, like 15-25%.

 

[Epic B]

If you're not using aids, how does it launch? I haven't driven the Calibra, but the 155 launches like a 4WD car, with no smoke while power is stock. If you're spinning the wheels on either car without TCS, check the VCD settings.

If it launches like a 4WD and the VCD is dialed closer to 50/50, it could just be an illusion. Car handling can do that. Perhaps the VCD (I'm not sure if it's standard) is dialed somewhat like 40/60 front/rear. I'm not sure. From what I remember, the 155 had an extremely slight amount of understeer, so little to notice.

And also, in the Classic lots of the Opel and Alfa dealers, it even says that both are 4WD cars.

 

[Dotini]

The DTM is one of the most important events in GT4.

This setup will win it every time in A-spec or B-spec: http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::4580/Mercedes-Benz-CLK-Touring-Car/

Respectfully submitted,
Steve

 

[Epic B]

Obviously. The tune calls for R5 tires (ultimate grip, the only problem is wear) and a turbo. It's much more fun (well, not really, this race is too easy) with harder tires and no power mods.

 

[BobK]

No way would R5's last six laps at either Opera or Midfield. On R2 or R3 tires, though, the turbo would make it a walk in the park. That's why most people leave the cars stock, except for suspension/transmission settings.

Drifting a little offtopic here, something I question on all the "canned tunes" is why they give transmission settings. You want to set your gears differently for different tracks; what works well on Opera won't work well on Fuji and vice versa.

 

[Bopop4]

Hard tires and a cheap turbo would make it a walk in the park.

@Naveek. I was just going off of what I had felt from the car previously, (and the Calibra in GT3) and if you hadn't of told me about the 4WD then I would've never known lol. I just took the 155 for a lap of the 'Ring and wow is it good. The car has just a hint of smoke from launch, (aids, don't make me laugh) and the car is balanced VERY nicely. I only went off once or twice (Ai made me take the long way round), and the only time that I noticed the 4WD was when I slid the car into a corner and punched it. A slight push but nothing too bad.

 

[Epic B]

Okay then. I'm not laughing if you use aids though. I use them sometimes, but not as much anymore. Perhaps TCS 1 for emergencies.

 

[Bopop4]

F1 car I use TSC and maybe an aftermarket turbo'd Group C.

 

[Matej]

@Nz: If you have Audi A4 then I guess you're lucky - I own it too. Just use R3 (Medium) compound and you should be able to do it. If you still have problems with tyre wear due to your driving style then use R2 (Hard) tyres; qualification can help you too gain better starter position and to improve your skill in general (not to mention that you can test how TCS and other settings affects tyre wear 👍).

 

[Nz]

It occurred to me that you may have equipped the car with a Stage Three or Stage Four turbo. If so, take it off again. Any of the cars eligible for the DTM can win it completely stock, exactly as it comes when you win/purchase it. That includes the Mercedes 190 Evo II (but I'm not sure I'd call it an easy win).

You can win the Alfa 155 in the La Festa Italiano series, also in the European Hall; you can't purchase it.

The easiest cars to win this series with are the Mercedes CLK Touring Car, either of the Audis or the Opel/Vauxhall Astra. But it can still definitely be won with the Merc 190 Evo II, the Opel/Vauxhall Calibra, or the Alfa 155. The car I personally have gone fastest with is the Mercedes CLK Touring Car (prize car from the Legends of the Silver Arrow manufacturers race) but honestly, not by much.

Yes Im pretty sure I have turbo equiped I will try and take it off and see what happens. Thanks

@Nz: If you have Audi A4 then I guess you're lucky - I own it too. Just use R3 (Medium) compound and you should be able to do it. If you still have problems with tyre wear due to your driving style then use R2 (Hard) tyres; qualification can help you too gain better starter position and to improve your skill in general (not to mention that you can test how TCS and other settings affects tyre wear 👍).

All Aids are on default settings and I'm pretty sure I have my tyre on the Softest one due to longer tyre wear resistant.

Okay then. I'm not laughing if you use aids though. I use them sometimes, but not as much anymore. Perhaps TCS 1 for emergencies.

Yes I have aids on(default).

Hard tires and a cheap turbo would make it a walk in the park.

@Naveek. I was just going off of what I had felt from the car previously, (and the Calibra in GT3) and if you hadn't of told me about the 4WD then I would've never known lol. I just took the 155 for a lap of the 'Ring and wow is it good. The car has just a hint of smoke from launch, (aids, don't make me laugh) and the car is balanced VERY nicely. I only went off once or twice (Ai made me take the long way round), and the only time that I noticed the 4WD was when I slid the car into a corner and punched it. A slight push but nothing too bad.

I tried Hard tires and it lost grip at a very early time. Im sure I installed the expensive turbo around 75k I think.

No way would R5's last six laps at either Opera or Midfield. On R2 or R3 tires, though, the turbo would make it a walk in the park. That's why most people leave the cars stock, except for suspension/transmission settings.

Drifting a little offtopic here, something I question on all the "canned tunes" is why they give transmission settings. You want to set your gears differently for different tracks; what works well on Opera won't work well on Fuji and vice versa.

Ah k thanks I should leave my car stock for some events. But how do I know what to set the Auto(Gears) to, Sorry I'm not used to this kind of gears.

The DTM is one of the most important events in GT4.

This setup will win it every time in A-spec or B-spec: http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::4580/Mercedes-Benz-CLK-Touring-Car/

Respectfully submitted,
Steve

Wow! Thank you soo much I'm sure that I will need that setup for Mercedez. Also one question what does "DTM" means? THanks

 

[BobK]

Deutsche Touringcar MeisterShaft

There are almost as many schools of thought on setting gear ratios as there are tuners out there.

As a general rule I set the gears so that I'm approaching the redline on the tach at the end of the longest straight in the highest gear; generally I use the auto-settings to do this. Set the auto to lower numbers on shorter tracks and higher numbers on longer tracks. Get in the habit of checking your gearing before every race. Use practice sessions to get familiar with how it works.

No this isn't the optimum method but it's easy and generally it'll get you pretty close, and more often than not "pretty close" is plenty good enough.

I'll have to give Dotini's settings a try, but my suspicion is that the R5's will be a disaster in the DTM. I'll report back on that.

Generally you want to set the driving aids to zero or close to it. ASM higher than 0 generally just slows down your corner exit speeds. Low levels of TCS will help prevent wheelspin in standing-start races without hurting acceleration too much; I'm talking values of 1 or 2 here.

And a word to the wise here: posting multiple times in a row is strongly frowned upon here and will garner moderator attention, and not in a good way. Use the multi-quote feature to reply to several people in one post, or go back and edit your last post. Just trying to give you a friendly heads up on that before the mods get involved.

 

[calico]

The rules and regulations for DTM racing was different back then. So we get 4WD racing cars. And besides, the 155 and Calibra road cars were FF, who would want a front drive DTM car?

The Calibra turbo was in fact 4 wheel drive same as the cavalier turbo.

 

[Bopop4]

I tried Hard tires and it lost grip at a very early time. Im sure I installed the expensive turbo around 75k I think.

Oh god, the 75k turbo is overkill. If you are still having trouble then bue the cheapest turbo there is.

And one thing that will drop you 3-5 seconds off of your times, practice.
I know that when I am doing a new track and car combo, I am always about 5 seconds off in the first 3-5 laps. After about 10-20 laps you will pik up a massive amount of time. (It will take about 50 laps to get near the limit.)

And yeah, sextuple posts are a bad thing.

 

[Epic B]

The Calibra turbo was in fact 4 wheel drive same as the cavalier turbo.

I was just assuming the Calibra was front drive, considering the case with the 155. And I don't think the Cavalier raced in the DTM.

999th post! I'll make my 1000th elsewhere.

 

[BobK]

I'll have to give Dotini's settings a try, but my suspicion is that the R5's will be a disaster in the DTM. I'll report back on that.

Well perhaps it wasn't a disaster, I still managed to win the first race at Opera. Furthermore my best lap was five seconds faster than my previous best in that race.

However, I had to pit at the end of lap three for fresh rubber; laps three and six ended on blood-red tires and the times were pathetic. My overall elapsed time for the race was well off the times I'd set with a stock CLK Touring Car.

Accordingly, I stand by my statement that no turbo on R3's is faster than turbo on R5's.

 

[Nz]

Deutsche Touringcar MeisterShaft

There are almost as many schools of thought on setting gear ratios as there are tuners out there.

As a general rule I set the gears so that I'm approaching the redline on the tach at the end of the longest straight in the highest gear; generally I use the auto-settings to do this. Set the auto to lower numbers on shorter tracks and higher numbers on longer tracks. Get in the habit of checking your gearing before every race. Use practice sessions to get familiar with how it works.

No this isn't the optimum method but it's easy and generally it'll get you pretty close, and more often than not "pretty close" is plenty good enough.

I'll have to give Dotini's settings a try, but my suspicion is that the R5's will be a disaster in the DTM. I'll report back on that.

Generally you want to set the driving aids to zero or close to it. ASM higher than 0 generally just slows down your corner exit speeds. Low levels of TCS will help prevent wheelspin in standing-start races without hurting acceleration too much; I'm talking values of 1 or 2 here.

And a word to the wise here: posting multiple times in a row is strongly frowned upon here and will garner moderator attention, and not in a good way. Use the multi-quote feature to reply to several people in one post, or go back and edit your last post. Just trying to give you a friendly heads up on that before the mods get involved.

Yes sorry about multiple posting, I never knew how to do it but now I do Thanks and also Thanks for the advice. I actually took off all of my turbo and just left R5(soft compound) and I won. I will try lowering my TCS and all those help and will look into that gears. Thanks again

Oh god, the 75k turbo is overkill. If you are still having trouble then bue the cheapest turbo there is.

And one thing that will drop you 3-5 seconds off of your times, practice.
I know that when I am doing a new track and car combo, I am always about 5 seconds off in the first 3-5 laps. After about 10-20 laps you will pik up a massive amount of time. (It will take about 50 laps to get near the limit.)

And yeah, sextuple posts are a bad thing.

Yeah sorry about multiple post and I just found out it costed me 90k and I took it off and ran without any turbo.

Well perhaps it wasn't a disaster, I still managed to win the first race at Opera. Furthermore my best lap was five seconds faster than my previous best in that race.

However, I had to pit at the end of lap three for fresh rubber; laps three and six ended on blood-red tires and the times were pathetic. My overall elapsed time for the race was well off the times I'd set with a stock CLK Touring Car.

Accordingly, I stand by my statement that no turbo on R3's is faster than turbo on R5's.

I ran R5 and I was the same with the 1st guy he had a Audi too same as my car we had the same speed and everything but when the straight comes in I draft him and use my nos and beat him. Thanks guys for the help and I believe this topic is closed. Thank you for all the people who helped me and took their time. Thanks ALOT!