Keep Spinning out...

  • Thread starter Tmalone
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South Jersey
GinaDragon
I keep spinning out even in my basically stock supra. I usually lower the cars about 10 ticks( just for looks:D). What will help me keep control, toe? camber? dampers? I've changed things and tested them hundreds of times, still spinning out. And no I'm not just ebrake and flooring it, I usually weight transfer and feather the gas. Any advice would be great.
 
Stiff front, soft rear! Try both at their lowest settings and raise the numbers from there.

I usually start with 8/6 spring rate and adjust from there, raising/lowering by .15 each adjustment.

You want the back as soft as possible and front as stiff as possible.

This is just the absolute basics, I'm sure others will jump in if you're looking for more direct numbers.
 
Thanks I usually just set the rear camber to .8 and the front to .8-2.4. Some times I change the Dampers and Extensions to 5 but never really noticed a difference. I never really touched the springs maybe just a few ticks not much, maybe that's why it's so hard to not slide out.
 
How are you spinning out? are you transitioning and just spinning out or are you drifting and halfway through you're spinning?
 
Less front camber, more spring rate kg's on the front, set power between 300-500 bhp, set max speed under 300 for sure.
those are the main features i do on every car.
Give it a go ;)
 
I'd love to use the Supra too, but when I install the adjustable transmittion my shifter doesn't work anymore, just paddles (G27). Is there a way to fix this?
 
I'd love to use the Supra too, but when I install the adjustable transmittion my shifter doesn't work anymore, just paddles (G27). Is there a way to fix this?
Yea, its a known glitch that happens to some cars. Dont think theres a way to fix that.
 
I spent all morning messing around with a bunch of settings with a couple different cars. I start spinning out in the middle of my drifts. Adjusting my springs and my toe seemed to help, still seem to spin out. Guess it's gonna take some time to get a feel for the suspension. I seem to drift better with other tires, but i want to learn Comfort Hards so I won't have to relearn how to control the car. Wish there was test track you could tune without exiting, it's a pain to tune, test, quit over and over again.
 
I'd love to use the Supra too, but when I install the adjustable transmittion my shifter doesn't work anymore, just paddles (G27). Is there a way to fix this?
We're gonna have to wait for a patch I'm afraid, which pretty frustrating (in fact it should have been already patched but we're talking about Polyphony)
 
I finally found a car which works well with a 60/60/60 diff setting and doesn't spin out - The GT86.
BUT this car has zero torque. It won't even do a full lap drift on Tsukuba, it's so frustrating. Unless of course you put a big turbo on it, which just ruins the power output.

But the critical point of people spinning out really seems to be the diff. I don't know what they did, but there must be some significant changes. Yesterday I bought a Chevy Nova (don't ask me why). It was stock except a five gear transmittion and a racing suspension. And after a few laps I could actually drift it really well, no spinning out. Of course sometimes only the inner rear tire would spin. So I installed a diff, while leaving the setting untouched. As before the car still had trouble getting both rear tires to spin in long bends, so in a way it felt exactly like the stock diff. Only that now I was again spinning out.
 
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Stiff front, soft rear! Try both at their lowest settings and raise the numbers from there.

I usually start with 8/6 spring rate and adjust from there, raising/lowering by .15 each adjustment.

You want the back as soft as possible and front as stiff as possible.

This is just the absolute basics, I'm sure others will jump in if you're looking for more direct numbers.
Thanks, mate..
 
That setting is a 2way.

Very few cars come with open diffs in this game. I base that on an assumption though, as there are few cars that come with a stock diff with a setting of 0/0/0 and act just like an open. Silvias come with 50/80/0 and they behave like the viscous lsd they come with irl. Cars that come with torsen irl have something like 7/30/15 in game. That explains my assumption.
 
I'd love to use the Supra too, but when I install the adjustable transmittion my shifter doesn't work anymore, just paddles (G27). Is there a way to fix this?
Yea, its a known glitch that happens to some cars. Dont think theres a way to fix that.

Why not just use the stock transmission? I almost always use the stock transmission especially on the Supra, the gearing is just right in my opinion.
 
Why not just use the stock transmission? I almost always use the stock transmission especially on the Supra, the gearing is just right in my opinion.
I do on the supra and my 180, but for some other cars its not really that great.
 
Anybody tried raising their car? I starting to feel bumpsteer might be one of the problems. Especially in transitions.

I won't try it though. I'd rather spin out and look good doing it than to link Nürburgring in a Formula D'ouche-looking car.
 
Anybody tried raising their car? I starting to feel bumpsteer might be one of the problems. Especially in transitions.

I won't try it though. I'd rather spin out and look good doing it than to link Nürburgring in a Formula D'ouche-looking car.
Lol yeah same here. Might sound like blasphemy to some ears but I always drop my cars to the max and adjust the setup from here.
 
Unfortunately, this version of the game still has limits on the angle and um.. lack of angle causing massive snap back and oversteer.

It's almost like the coders set an end point, that if you angle past it, you are written into an unavoidable spin out.

And for the snap back, the coders may have wanted it easier for the racers to not oversteer.
For it makes the racers feel nice and squishy inside - not having as much oversteer.

So, the game physics have abnormal understeer and oversteer points.
 
Unfortunately, this version of the game still has limits on the angle and um.. lack of angle causing massive snap back and oversteer.

It's almost like the coders set an end point, that if you angle past it, you are written into an unavoidable spin out.

And for the snap back, the coders may have wanted it easier for the racers to not oversteer.
For it makes the racers feel nice and squishy inside - not having as much oversteer.

So, the game physics have abnormal understeer and oversteer points.

Try the aristo that car can get mad angle with the right setup. I was getting full lock on my g27.
 
i m new to drifting actually to the forum as well... so i don t have much experience and no experience driftin irl...i was watching fly666fly videos and he showed absolute car control...i havent been very successful yet...i m using gt3rs fanatec wheel and was wondering (nobody has mentioned it yet) if the p roblem with catching the slides and snap oversteer does not lie in the fact that my wheel is much slower than his and hence is not able to replicate what a normal wheel would automaticaly do when the back of a car steps out to catch a slide....hope you understand what i m tryin to point out here...in reality(at least i think so) the faster the back steps out the waster the wheel turns to countersteer....watching his older videos his wheel t500 wheel flew from one side to another like a breez looking very naturally and lifelike. I m not able to do that with mine and i don t think it s because of lack of skill or wrong car settings...the wheel just is not able to move quick enough....even when you think of ds3 drifting it is so much easier because of its "speed". Ofcourse it s way too much and def not lifelike or natural but i think it works well as a proof that the speed of the pheriperals make a difference
 
Anybody tried raising their car? I starting to feel bumpsteer might be one of the problems. Especially in transitions.

I won't try it though. I'd rather spin out and look good doing it than to link Nürburgring in a Formula D'ouche-looking car.
I'd rather slide by you when your ass deep in a ditch in my formula douche- mobile.
PD has even explained cars now need appropriate room for suspension/tire movement, just like the real world. Yes most real world drift cars look sick and appear to be slammed, but that's due to the bodykits they employ. Not only do competition cars utilize heavily engineered knuckles/hub assemblies to keep the correct geometry while lowering the cars center of gravity but they all fit wide fenders allowing for wheel clearance. My real drift missle, a '90 240sx isn't completly slammed because I learned my lesson the hard way, broken components, chewed up wheels and random wheel bite that throws the car off balance and leaves you to the mercy of god. Start thinking "Real" with your setups, I did and it paid off in gt6. The tuning habits you picked up in gt5 are no longer competent and will only hold you back.
 
I'd rather slide by you when your ass deep in a ditch in my formula douche- mobile.
PD has even explained cars now need appropriate room for suspension/tire movement, just like the real world. Yes most real world drift cars look sick and appear to be slammed, but that's due to the bodykits they employ. Not only do competition cars utilize heavily engineered knuckles/hub assemblies to keep the correct geometry while lowering the cars center of gravity but they all fit wide fenders allowing for wheel clearance. My real drift missle, a '90 240sx isn't completly slammed because I learned my lesson the hard way, broken components, chewed up wheels and random wheel bite that throws the car off balance and leaves you to the mercy of god. Start thinking "Real" with your setups, I did and it paid off in gt6. The tuning habits you picked up in gt5 are no longer competent and will only hold you back.

How'd you get away with that?
 
I'd rather slide by you when your ass deep in a ditch in my formula douche- mobile.
PD has even explained cars now need appropriate room for suspension/tire movement, just like the real world. Yes most real world drift cars look sick and appear to be slammed, but that's due to the bodykits they employ. Not only do competition cars utilize heavily engineered knuckles/hub assemblies to keep the correct geometry while lowering the cars center of gravity but they all fit wide fenders allowing for wheel clearance. My real drift missle, a '90 240sx isn't completly slammed because I learned my lesson the hard way, broken components, chewed up wheels and random wheel bite that throws the car off balance and leaves you to the mercy of god. Start thinking "Real" with your setups, I did and it paid off in gt6. The tuning habits you picked up in gt5 are no longer competent and will only hold you back.

Those habits also hold you back in real life, BUT in the words of the dark knight "We hear you, we just don't care." Drifting ended for some of in 2004ish, when car style started to go out of the window. America's misconception of "missile" cars was the final nail for me.

Thanks Chicago and a few others scattered around the world for keeping it trill. Keep dancing with the devil under the pale moonlight fellas!
 
I'd rather slide by you when your ass deep in a ditch in my formula douche- mobile.

Yes most real world drift cars look sick and appear to be slammed, but that's due to the bodykits they employ.

Not only do competition cars utilize heavily engineered knuckles/hub assemblies to keep the correct geometry while lowering the cars center of gravity but they all fit wide fenders allowing for wheel clearance.

Alright. I'm gonna call you out on this one.

First, it is NOT the bodykits that lowered Haraguchi/Imamura(86)/A Bo Moon dudes/Akinori Ito/Icouldgoonforever-san's cars. They help getting those last few inches YES, but if you removed the aero on those cars, they would STILL be low and look 100000x better than any "Pro Car" you would ever build in any game. Search "Break Ito Style" and tell me he can't drive with a lowered, STOCK BODY Type X.

They do NOT use modified knuckles or "hub assemblies" to keep the correct geometry. Some raise their subframe, and most of the time you can get away with all the rad adjustable suspension arms and **** you can get these days. Running overfenders had NOTHING to do with them being lowered. You can drift a perfectly stock-metal car while it still being lowlow. Act like you know.

You're probably one of those kids who runs off to buy a haggard ass 240 thinking you're Tsuchiya on your first day, smash it into the curb and blaming that your car was lowered. THEN you don't have the skill/means to repair your car, and go on the internet and tells us your daily is a missile.

People like you killed drifting, making it some "well set-up, high car, V8" ********. It was supposed to be fun.

I may be stuck in the biggest ditch out on track, but the difference between me and you is that I look good doing it.


Also
Thanks Chicago and a few others scattered around the world for keeping it trill. Keep dancing with the devil under the pale moonlight fellas!

This dude's got the right idea. I'm with them Chicago folks.
 
Yes they do, even extended suspension arms. But that is to get more steering lock, not because the car is lowered. I forgot to add that.
 
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