Are the LEDs for those toggle switches? It should be relatively easy to wire them up. If you want a flashing LED you could make your own with a 555 timer in astable mode, if you do that you can control the rate at which it flashes and, if you wanted, you could make it flash asymmetrically, as in the on period and off period could be different. If you want, anyway.
You could also use non-locking switches for LEDs with a flip flop, I guess a T type (a clocked JK flip flop with J and K held high, the button hooked up to the clock input (with a debouncing circuit) and the LED wired to Q).
If you're using the USB connector for power bear in mind you're limited to 5V at a maximum of 500mA, but I'm sure without the illumination you're well within that and common LEDs only draw about 10-20mA. Don't mess around with filament bulbs, they've been replaced by LEDs for a reason, but remember of course that diodes can only be wired one way. You most likely won't kill them with 5V reverse bias so don't worry too much, but don't leave them connected the wrong way for too long; the flat side or short leg is the cathode which goes to ground. Have at least a 330 ohm resistor in series with the LED, too, generally speaking a common LED will require at least that much with a 5V supply. Add more resistance to dim the LED.
Edit: if you want to run a filament bulb you could always use a small 5V relay and hook up a Molex power supply or something, just make sure you have a flyback diode or else chances are you'll kill your board and possibly your USB port. If you don't want any clicking sound effects there may be suitable opto couplers, or maybe just a transistor would do it but that would mean you have to have a common ground between your 5V supply and 12V supply, and I don't know how the USB standard would feel about that.
