License test Hell

  • Thread starter disgracian
  • 117 comments
  • 24,749 views
I have the PAL version too. I haven't had a chance to go near GT3 since my last couple of posts. This weekend was going to be it, but I'm helping somebody move house instead. I will get this gold one day though.

Just out of interest, did anybody else find that the first 6 licence tests take about 30 minutes to get, while the last 2 require weeks? Pretty sudden learning curve.

Cheers,
D.
 
^ I use the PAL version and got gold in it. It's really tough as yeah you need to lift off, but it's not as much as you think. The final section is key, the blind corner into the tunnel is probably the most important part followed by the first right hand turn towards (in the beginning).
Yes, you don't need to lift off much. My point, though, is that you only need to lift off at all if you got the first section of the test right; otherwise you will be coming out of the previous corner too slowly to need to lift off.

This makes learning a little difficult, because you can't do it entirely in sections.
 
Sundo50, welcome to GTPlanet.

What you're doing is called spamming or postwhoring, and it is not appreciated here. Please only post if you have something worthwhile to say. Trying to get your post count up by adding so many pointless messages is a great way to get your count reset to zero.

"Flooring it as fast as [you] can and braking perfectly" is not particularly helpful advice, is it? No. And in the thread about the controller problem, if you had bothered to read, you'd have noticed that the problem has already been solved.

I haven't read any of your other recent posts, but I'm hoping they're not like these two.

Take the time to think twice - or three times - and decide if a post is worth making and adds anything to the discussion.
 
The really sad thing about these ridiculous license tests is that they have nothing to do with the actual racing. You'd think the lessons they teach are preparing you for what's ahead in the game. But, I was never required to run that perfect during races against the AI. Tuning was the key. Making sure I didn't bring a knife to a gunfight.

I was not aware, until reading earlier in this thread, that all golds on the tests aren't necessary for 100%. The bonus cars are nice, but I refuse to torture myself gettings golds again my second time through, if I don't need them for 100%.
 
The really sad thing about these ridiculous license tests is that they have nothing to do with the actual racing. You'd think the lessons they teach are preparing you for what's ahead in the game. But, I was never required to run that perfect during races against the AI. Tuning was the key. Making sure I didn't bring a knife to a gunfight.

I was not aware, until reading earlier in this thread, that all golds on the tests aren't necessary for 100%. The bonus cars are nice, but I refuse to torture myself gettings golds again my second time through, if I don't need them for 100%.

In my opinion, most of the hardest races in GT3 (the PRO league, for instance) only require silverish driving skills. This is assuming you're driving a car that is competitive and not just blowing the AI away with horses and mega-downforce. If you are doing so, then bronze (and BAD bronze) driving skills are all that's necessary.

For instance, i tackled most of the GT1 races (in which we're up against the Mazda 787b, Toyota TSO20, etc) with a GT2 car--an Oreca Viper or Camaro RC. Sometimes, i even stepped it up a notch and drove my GT40 MkIII road car. which has absolutly horrendous brakes in comparison to the GT1's.

I agree with you on the "all golds" comment. I refuse to torture myself just to win a friggin' car that'll wind up being a cheater machine! The sim & arcade races in and of themself take so loooooooong to finish....
 
I'm afraid I'm not as ethical as you. I try to run good lines and wouldn't cut chicanes, ram the AI purposely, etc., but I wiill throw horses into the mix if allowed to do so. I can race like a pro when I need to. You know, for the stock only events where tire management is key. Drive with bronze skills on those and you'll be stopping for new hides every lap.

Just like the topic author, I got all golds for the B-license just so I could have the Miata as a good car to start with. Same with all golds on the rally tests. With the Subaru prototype and Miata, I can conquer many of the events in the beginner league. I'm as stingy with game money as I am with real dough. I hate to buy cars for one off events. I'll do what I have to do to get a free car if I need it. For example: I used the Xsara rally car I won for gold on one of the rally events, to easily win the FF events. That won me a Vitz I could use for the Vitz series.

Man, I hope I don't need another one of the bonus cars for getting a gold license. Like I read earlier in this thread, I spent nearly an hour the other day trying to get gold for the Camaro/ Seattle test. I can't remember the number. Anyway, I needed 14.200 and was consistently in the .2xx range- .208, .205, even a .201. Bad memories from my first time through started to creep in on me. I was so close that I didn't want to stop, but then realized, to hell with it. I want to have fun with the game this time around. I don't have anything to prove. I got all golds once before, and once is enough. I'm not bothering with them in GT4 either.
 
Camaro/Seattle is brutal.. :yuck: I already said this before but i finally got gold there and then frickin erased my memory card by accident. Ugh.

Anyways, the cool thing about GT3 is sometimes i found i actually did need massive horsepower to get even with the AI :dopey: That's what i never understood about GT2....many cars can get massive power, (like the Jaguar XJ220 and Nissan R390 road car) but there aren't any races in which to utilize it without feeling like a total 🤬.
 
I haven't had the patience to do much more than bronze on the license tests. I just want my ticket to race. Sometimes if I pass one too easily I'll go back and hit it a few more times for practice or personal glory. I think maybe I'm paying for it now that I'm working on Time Trials. I started on these at the same time as the S-License tests since several are the same track and car.

The GT40 at Seattle was real tough for me. I got one fluke clean lap, took my bronze and never looked back. God I love the snarl of that mill, man.
 
I was so naive my first time through. I thought I had to have all golds for 100%. I also thought the AI would strictly follow the lines and perform as well as what is required for gold. Thought I had better get this right or I won't stand a chance against the AI once I start the actual racing.:dopey:

The benefit was it helped me to accomplish my ultimate goal, which was to attain a true 100%: All golds, every car, and every performance part for every car. Took months to accumulate such wealth.

My toughest license was the full Laguna Seca lap with the Oreca Viper. I know LS is not all that hard of a track to get around, but I was stuck on that for days. Lap after lap, I'd be within a tenth. The last corner was my nemesis. I'd be ahead of my ghost only to nick an inside cone at the last corner, or brake just a little too late, and exit too wide. FAIL. Finally passed it by a tenth. Mucho celebration!

Conversely, the test I was fearing the most was the full lap on Monaco, er, Cote whatever, in the Toyota GT-One. I nailed gold on my second try. Go figure.:)

EDIT: Heh, on a whim thought I'd give the Camaro another run up the hill at Seattle. First try: 14.261. Second: 14.187. Yippee!! Why do they always come easy when you don't even care?
 
Yes, you don't need to lift off much. My point, though, is that you only need to lift off at all if you got the first section of the test right; otherwise you will be coming out of the previous corner too slowly to need to lift off.

This makes learning a little difficult, because you can't do it entirely in sections.

^ There are different ways to take the test, I managed to get gold twice doing two seperate methods. With regards to this test there's a very fine line so it's all about timing.
 
Oh I should mention I started playing again and only have to gold the following licenses

S7 (I've got 2:09:309 once and I actually reversed as a joke on the main straight at the start, I'm still kicking myself. Since then I've gotten it down to :305)
S8 (Monaco, I've had a few tries at this at a friends and it's not going to be easy despite my experience in F1 games. I have gone through a few F1 sim games on a Hard/Extreme [Full Race distance, Full damage, Real tyres and fuel, Hard AI, Variable weather] and won [I ran out of fuel on the last half-lap on my race but I managed to coast to the finish] but even so it will still be extremely hard. I'm not great with the GT One car.)
R8 (I've got gold on this license quite a few times before, I just want to Gold the S License before the Rally License as to have them in the correct order of obtaining them)

My only main concern is Monaco, a hard track in an extremely hard car in the hardest version (PAL).
 
Whoa, wait a minute here. Excuse me if I sound like I just came out of a cave, but am I to understand that the PAL version has even more insane requirements for golds?:ouch: If so, then by how much? Are we talking hundredths or tenths?

My God, by whatever amount, you have my sympathy. That is unless you like the challenge. And my hat is off to those who met it.👍
 
Whoa, wait a minute here. Excuse me if I sound like I just came out of a cave, but am I to understand that the PAL version has even more insane requirements for golds?:ouch: If so, then by how much? Are we talking hundredths or tenths?

My God, by whatever amount, you have my sympathy. That is unless you like the challenge. And my hat is off to those who met it.👍

^ It depends on the test but in GT2 I'm pretty sure there were tests in which you needed to be 1 second quicker than in NTSC versions (in regards to gold) or pretty close to it. Furthermore it's not hard to come close, it's hard getting the last few tenths.
 
The first bend through the tunnel I have down to a fine art now, and the subsequent hard right isn't too bad despite a tendency for some sideways action. I actually tend to struggle more with the next right-hander. I either get the car off balance trying to keep as far to the outside as I can, or I hit the rocky wall while I appear to be right on top of the blue line. It's critical because it sets up the approach to the last sweeping left through the tunnel onto the straight.
(He's talking about B-8, by the way.) I just went back and got silver on this after taking a nice long break from license tests. I'm just shooting for silver - my skills aren't quite gold level.

Just wanted to say I got a lot of help from this thread. For me that 'sideways action' was a big problem. First I had to learn to squeeze back onto the throttle instead of gunning it on the way out of a turn, then I gradually got the hang of partial steering instead of full-lock left or right turns (I'm using a controller - not a steering wheel.) Both of which helped me control the sliding and keep a little more speed through the turns.

Probably old hat to most people here, but it was a lesson I needed.

License tests are such a pain in the rear, but they do make me a better driver.
 
License tests are such a pain in the rear, but they do make me a better driver.
You'd be amazed, back when GT3 was the current game, how many impatient 14-year-olds came in here saying, almost literally, "I'm too lazy to do those stupid licenses so I just gamesharked all golds" and then, two posts later, "How do I win the stupid [insert series here] Cup? I've got my Skyline maxxxed out and the AI just goes way too fast for me. They cheat!"

I'm glad to hear that you are starting to get the hang of a more mature driving style. I went until I got silver on every license test, and only got a few golds until I reached 100% completion. After that, I went back and did the balance of the golds when i did n't have anything else to do. It was much easier to manage gold with some more mileage under my belt.
 
another important note is that the difference between being an all silver player and an all gold player is really not that much. there's a wall at the threshold of being a legitimate good player that 95% of people fear and retreat from. it's tall but it's thin. it does not take as much as you think to smash through it and once you are on the other side, your confidence level will make everything else you have yet to accomplish seem much easier than you thought.

of course there is some genetic skill required to really hit the absolute mountaintop but there's almost no level of skill that a lot practice can't get you to in GT3. i made it pretty far in the game even though my skill level was really never all that high to be honest. but through resolve and sheer determination, i willed myself to be a good GT3 player and OLR competitor.

to sum it all up, keep trying until you accomplish your GT3 goals. pep talk over.
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys. :)

I doubt I'll ever be in the top 1% of drivers. I mean, if I had the genetics or raw talent or whatever it wouldn't take this much effort to get silver. But that's OK - I'm still having fun.
 
Me again. :dunce:

I'm trying to finish the S license. I'm just going for bronze at this point. All I've got left is S-8 (The Gt-One at Cote d'Azur) and it is a pain. I realize it's lame asking for help to get bronze, but... well, here I am.

I got within a .265 seconds once, but generally I'm about 2 seconds off. I have the most trouble at those downhill hairpins, and a little trouble with the hairpin at the end of the pier. My big problem is that I can't seem to keep the car moving moving and turning at slow speeds. First I'll go too fast, understeer and blow past the turn. Then I'll try to fix that, and end up stopping dead in the middle of the road, and have to start up again in first gear.

I watched the demo and noticed that it seems to be 'pulsing' on the throttle (feathering?) I tried that, and it helped a little. But I'm still a mess at low speed.

It also seems that the demo is using automatic transmission, which freaks me out. Did you see that gear indicator going 1-2-1-2-1 in a couple of the corners? Why doesn't it lose time with those shifts? Anyway I can't use AT any more. I'm feel like I need to coordinate the gas with the gear shifts and I can't do that with AT.

This has me worried about the Cote d'Azur enduro. What kind of lap times do you need to win this? What's a good car to use for this race?

But mainly, I'd appreciate any help getting through those hairpins and any other tips you might have for getting though this license test. Thanks.
 
You can win the Monaco enduro in an R390 road car, so don't worry much.

The secret to this license test is to use the manual transmission and never go below 3rd gear. The car has enough power that you get decent acceleration, and staying in a high gear stops you from burning out at every turn.

One other thing is brake early and really late-apex your turns. You'll be amazed how much the bottom half of the track opens out when you're not going too fast and early-apexing.
 
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Duke

That's amazing. After just a couple of tries, I beat it by more than .5 seconds. And this is after wasting way too much time with laps 2 seconds over (or just crasing due to overdriving, trying to make up lost time.)

I was just about to come back and ask about the weird rev limiter on the car. In first gear the shift light comes on at 20 mph, but the car still accelerates up to 49. And in second the light comes on at 40, but it doesn't top out until 79. I always heard that you should accelerate to the redline in each gear, so I was gonna ask if I should shift out of second gear earlier or later. Turns out the answer is "to hell with second gear." :lol:

I wonder if there are other cases when I downshifted too much, too soon. I'm thinking about that Falcon XR8 that was giving me fits just recently. It's got torque, right? It should pull OK in third gear.

So i guess my lesson is, keeping the tach near redline is optimum for acceleration, but not always best for handling. (I'm a slow learner, but I get there eventually.)

Thanks a million, Duke! You saved my sanity. Not to mention getting me my S license.

ETA: I don't have an R390 road car yet, but now I should be able to win a Mazda 787 (I'll use a Lotus, not the Scud missile ;)). Would that do?
 
Excellent! Glad to hear of your success. And yes, the 787B will easily win the Monaco enduro. It's a good choice.

The shift point question is a good one, and one to which there's no good GT3 answer. Technically, optimum shift points would vary by car and would be calculated based on the torque/hp graphs and gear ratios. However, those are nearly worthless in GT3 (...or are they even IN GT3?).

Your best bet is to run most cars up to just below the rev limiter (typically, around 500 rpm above the redline) before shifting up. In fact, during a full-build car competition, I once ran an entire lap of Apricot Hill in a Viper - above the redline, and with the shift light blinking the entire way around. When you're practicing, watch the digital speedometer as your revs rise - if the MPH is still increasing quickly, hang on to the lower gear past the redline. If it looks like you're tapering off, shift up.

The only major exceptions to this rule of thumb are the various JGTC Skylines. For some reason boost falls off on those when you get up in the high revs. They prefer to be upshifted around 5500 rpm.
 
I recall when I was working on S-8, It seemed like I was going to be spending a lot of time on it. Surprisingly I managed one "clean enough" lap in about a half hour of trying. The tough part as I remember was getting the braking down so that you carry just enough speed to get you around the corner because you definitely didn't want to be laying down power until you were pretty close to the exit.

PS. I now have 0.28 secs to loose on TT10 for Gold. Just need to find that one clean lap.
 
The only major exceptions to this rule of thumb are the various JGTC Skylines. For some reason boost falls off on those when you get up in the high revs. They prefer to be upshifted around 5500 rpm.

You raised a very interesting point Duke, to which I want to add my observations as well.

Such earlier-upshift-goes-faster phenomenon is very apparent on the R390 road car, w/ its stock turbo and gearbox. The R390's stock gearbox ratios are very close, with each upshift from 2nd onward only traversing 1000rpm or less. It redlines at 7000 with max hp @ 5500, max torque @ 4500.

With such stock settings, if I shifted on redline, it resulted in my engine always working above its max hp point big time. How did that affect my accel? I took it to the 0-1000m test.

Over several runs, if I shifted right on redline, my 0-1000m time with the stock R390 road car was approx 22.3xx seconds. I then tried a few runs with an earlier shift point, around 6000rpm (instead of redline 7000rpm), so the engine always revved around the max hp point 5500rpm. Now the 0-1000 time became consistently 21.8xx seconds!

Now a whole 0.5 seconds improvement in straight line accel, without any upgrade or tune setting change, was pretty remarkable! If the R390's max hp point was closer to the redline, or if the gears weren't so close that they only cover such a small rev range, the performance difference wouldn't be as significant. It also meant that driving the r390 road car with auto transmission (which always shifts on redline for you) would really limit the car's performance.
 
That's an interesting test, and it sounds like it falls in the same category as the JGTC Skylines (or Skyboxes, as I call them).

There is a popular misconception that you want to shift at the power peak for maximum acceleration, which is not true. You normally want to upshift at whatever point you'll be closest to the power peak in the next gear up, not the current gear. This often involves going past the power peak before you shift up, because the loss of power in the lower gear is smaller than the loss of power in the higher gear would be if you shifted earlier.

However, it sounds like the R390 road car, with a peaky engine and very narrow ratio coverage, is still past its power peak in the new gear.
 
The shift point question is a good one, and one to which there's no good GT3 answer. Technically, optimum shift points would vary by car and would be calculated based on the torque/hp graphs and gear ratios. However, those are nearly worthless in GT3 (...or are they even IN GT3?).

Your best bet is to run most cars up to just below the rev limiter (typically, around 500 rpm above the redline)

There are no hp/torque graphs in GT3 :mad: which means the only accurate place to gauge this information is by going into the garage with the appropriate parts installed. Then, when you click on "spec info" (or whatever it's called) it will finally give us torque/hp info with the appropriate max rpm. This is the ONLY place you can get it.

Still there are no charts...GT1 and GT2 had the best charts...the ones in GT4 are half-baked since the chart & numbers are there but the numbers grid is absent. How much power am i making at 2,500 rpms??? In earlier games you could look at the chart, look at where the grid fell, then go..oh.."okay, i'm making about 130 hp" or whatever. In gT4 the line is there, but since there's no grid, you can only make a guesstimate at how much power is being shown.

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Duke

That's amazing. After just a couple of tries, I beat it by more than .5 seconds. And this is after wasting way too much time with laps 2 seconds over (or just crasing due to overdriving, trying to make up lost time.)

I was just about to come back and ask about the weird rev limiter on the car. In first gear the shift light comes on at 20 mph, but the car still accelerates up to 49. And in second the light comes on at 40, but it doesn't top out until 79. I always heard that you should accelerate to the redline in each gear, so I was gonna ask if I should shift out of second gear earlier or later. Turns out the answer is "to hell with second gear." :lol:

I wonder if there are other cases when I downshifted too much, too soon. I'm thinking about that Falcon XR8 that was giving me fits just recently. It's got torque, right? It should pull OK in third gear.

So i guess my lesson is, keeping the tach near redline is optimum for acceleration, but not always best for handling. (I'm a slow learner, but I get there eventually.)

It depends on the car's engine. For instance, say you have an Acura Integra, and say the peak hp is at 7,300 rpms but the redline is at 7,500. In this case (with a manual tranny) it's safe to push the revs as far into the redline as they'll go without peaking (usually this means shifting at 8,000 to 8,500 rpms). the reason is that when you shift, the revs will now fall a bit below peak torque (usually they'll fall to 6,000 to 6,500 rpms with a stock gearbox). Then you can push those revs again in the next gear.

Remember this: <after peak horsepower is met, there are usually a few hundred to a thousand revs of useful rpms left before you need to shift up>

Now in a car like the Skyline, BMW 328 ci, or many American muscle cars, peak power can be up to 1,000 to 2,000 rpms before the redline. Depending on how short your gears are and how deep the torque, you should be shifting before redline in some cases, otherwise you'll be hitting some rpms that are less than useful. **i am convinced that the reason many ai muscle cars in gT2 and GT4 are so sucky is cuz they go all the way to redline and dont shift early enough!**

In any case (as you have observed, Bulldozer) it's important to pay attention to your car's powerband, even if it means a bit of inconvenience to go all the way back to your garage. I've done plenty of track testing from GT1 on up to GT4 so i know how proper shift points are beneficial. 👍

A good place to observe this is at Midfield or some other track with a long straight. If your peak hp is significantly below redline, you can drive up this straight and visually watch your speed. Now, as you near and pass peak power, the car's speed will swell a bit. As you get 500...750, then 1,000 rpms past peak power, you'll notice speed isn't building quite as fast. Shift down, and (assuming the car has decent torque_ the speed should be quickening again.

This pattern will repeat again and again till some sort of limit is met (usually aerodynamic airflow will eventually slow your speed to a crawl no matter what gear you're in).
 
There is a popular misconception that you want to shift at the power peak for maximum acceleration, which is not true. You normally want to upshift at whatever point you'll be closest to the power peak in the next gear up

Amen.
 
That shifting principle seemed obvious to me, but it's hard to do in practice. An additional wrinkle is that you need to allow for rev loss during de-clutching. Which means you will need to rev past the peak power even a little bit more.

So, in any case, as you learn shift points for a particular setup of a particular car, you will want to observe the response after the shift to see if you're bogging down or not. i.e. whether you ended up too far down the power band, and then modify your future behaviour appropriately. Determining whether you shifted too late is harder to do.

You can do reasonably well by always shifting at the red line.

And when you have fully tuneable transmission, you can, of course, tune for whatever upshift rule you choose.

Just my four halfpence to confuse things even more. :)
 
right. erm instead of starting a new thread thought id search this thread for my problem licenses to no avail, so im bumping it to get some help.

my game version is PAL in case you need to know, and i use automatic transmission.

im doing all the licenses in order at the start of my game, currently got b and a licneses on all golds with two very nice mazda prize cars. so i head into ib and now, im stuck on ib-1, where you have to drive a chevrolet corvette z06 around a 60m radius circle circuit on a wet road. i can just about achieve a bronze time of 51.800, but i need a gold time of 48.700. so any advice for this license test? i managed to do the a license version (a-4) of this on a dry road in a mazda rx-7 type rz after many (many!) tries, but did the 100m radius version (a-5) on my first attempt. so also if ib-2 the corvette on a wet 100m r track is just as hard, any advice?

to sum up, help wanted for license test ib-1 and ib-2.

thanks

(ill post again in this thread if i manage to complete these tests but come stuck on another test without advice already mentioned elsewhere)
 
Back