Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Yes, at the moment it's just me who looks at settings, although as I have to test in everything and I've been driving for more than 30 years, both real and virtual, I'd hope that this at least somewhat validates that what I suggest is reasonable 🤣

Having a pool of people doing it could be an idea, but the flip of that is the old saying: too many cooks spoil the broth. Here's what my Steam library looks like (this is on my work laptop, so not a lot is installed at the moment as hard drive space is limited). The only major things missing from here are Project Cars 1/2, Wreckfest (on my personal account), the Forza titles (on my Microsoft account) Need for Speeds (EA account) and iRacing (I've never bothered adding it to Steam). I think a few of the other WRCs are on my Epic account as well.

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Yes, at the moment it's just me who looks at settings…

Cool, that's good to know and was just the answer I was looking for. At least there's assurance to some consistency across tiles. And it's awesome to hear about your background and all the titles you've tested.

Having a pool of people doing it could be an idea, but the flip of that is the old saying: too many cooks spoil the broth.

This is exactly what would worry me if different people tested different titles. Glad to know that's not the case (but also seeing all the titles you have to single handedly test makes my head spin 😅).

Cheers 🍻
 
Can anyone confirm if Forza Motorsport has added True Force support in its latest update? If so, does it feel similar to GT7?

Thanks!!
 
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Okay, this isn't clipping. What you're feeling is the result of what the sensitivity setting does in GT7 - it alters how reactive the force feedback is to changes. The easiest way to see this is to turn the wheel up to full torque, run the game at 10 for torque and increase sensitivity to 10, then drive down a straight and let go of the wheel; it'll soon start oscillating, especially in a high downforce car. Do the same with the sensitivity down at 1 and it won't (or... less so in a high downforce car).

Apply that to the info the game is sending to the wheel when you're under heavy/trail braking and entering a corner and with sensitivity at 1 the steering will feel more "floaty" because the weight shift that is applied to the steering isn't as aggressive. Turn it up to 10 and you'll feel that much more prominently and quickly.

Always remember that the settings we put on the support page are merely a suggestion, not a requirement. If you like the sensitivity at 10 then go for it.
I get that... And I understand they nerf the wheel but it's not the wheel getting floaty. It's I get to a point we're all force feedback is lost completely. If I take the turn the same way with the sensitivity at 10 instead of 1 this doesn't happen.

I don't think this is an issue of the wheel not able to handle things but more of GT7 and the way it controls force feedback. I know I'm not the only one with this issue.
 
I get that... And I understand they nerf the wheel but it's not the wheel getting floaty. It's I get to a point we're all force feedback is lost completely. If I take the turn the same way with the sensitivity at 10 instead of 1 this doesn't happen.

I don't think this is an issue of the wheel not able to handle things but more of GT7 and the way it controls force feedback. I know I'm not the only one with this issue.

I'd like to test this. Which car, tire track, corner and speed? I currently use sensitivity on 10 and the front end gets light if I over drive the tires.
 
I'd like to test this. Which car, tire track, corner and speed? I currently use sensitivity on 10 and the front end gets light if I over drive the tires.
I drive the vantage GR3 the most. It's different than the car getting light, I get that all the time on higher speed corners as it should.

It's more like the latter stages of trailbraking/turn in and feedback cuts out...it feels like I'm surpassing the friction circle... I'm pretty sure it's only happened when I have FFb sensitivity at 1. I thought maybe it has something to do with the relationship between that setting and tru force audio setting.

I think Rich answered this question well a few posts back.
 
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Sure sounds like you are surpassing the friction circle ie amount of braking + turning is demanding more than the friction available. I get that on 10.
 
So, I very recently got my G Pro wheel and pedals. So far I am exclusively on GT7 on PS5. I see that I can set FF on the wheel as well as in settings in GT7. What is considered best practice for setting FF? Also it would be nice to know how these two FF settings play together. Like, does the “output” of one go into the “input” of the other, or?
And yes, I assume that the info I am looking for is somewhere in this thread, but as we are on page 124, I hope some kind soul would care to repeat.
Thanks!😊
 
@Trk-el-son I might be the first kind soul to point you in the direction of THIS PAGE. This will firstly explain what the settings on the wheel do, and secondly provide some initial settings for both the wheel and various games - including GT7.

FFB is quite a personal thing so feel to adjust things to your liking.

Others can help you more with the GT specific settings, but that, you'll find, differs from person to person as well.

Oh and make sure your G Pro's firmware is up to date.
 
Excellent. Thanks!

Perhaps some GT7 users could comment on setting the FF in-game or on the wheelbase?
For GT7, always leave FFB on wheelbase at 11. In game I feel like I have the most control and fastest with Torque at 5 when using race tires, and upto 7 or 8 using comfort tires. 6 works well all-round for me. Generally feel like if im fighting the car too much, Im not able to be as precise with my inputs and thats not a good strategy for going fast.

Sensitivity I've settled on 10. Just feels slightly more direct for me.

The G Pro is a great wheel that's allowing me to perform better than my average skillset should allow.
 
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Yes, at the moment it's just me who looks at settings, although as I have to test in everything and I've been driving for more than 30 years, both real and virtual, I'd hope that this at least somewhat validates that what I suggest is reasonable 🤣

Having a pool of people doing it could be an idea, but the flip of that is the old saying: too many cooks spoil the broth. Here's what my Steam library looks like (this is on my work laptop, so not a lot is installed at the moment as hard drive space is limited). The only major things missing from here are Project Cars 1/2, Wreckfest (on my personal account), the Forza titles (on my Microsoft account) Need for Speeds (EA account) and iRacing (I've never bothered adding it to Steam). I think a few of the other WRCs are on my Epic account as well.

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You need to try and get a beta key for Rennsport. I need somegood settings
 
Two questions:
1. Can I see what my current firmware version is, without using a computer and G hub? (I am on PS5.)

2. Am I understanding it correctly, that in GT7 you can not use the two levers as dual clutch (or even handbrake)?
 
Hi guys any settings for f1 24 ps5?
I can't manage oversteer at turn exit even if I set medium traction control
Did you start here?
 
Hey all - just moved my rig from one room to another and noticed that the plastic sheathing on the USB A end of the pedal cables is separating from the main plug housing, which is very weird because the pedals went on to the rig and plugged in as brand new - like out of the box onto the rig and plugged into the wheel - and never moved until yesterday when I noticed this. Looking around it seems there's very little info on what replacing this cable might entail. My assumption is a high quality USB M - A with a ferrite shield is fine.

I've had no problems with connection, pedals are working fine but I'm pretty sure this is going to fail/need replacement.

@LOGI_Rich any suggestions on sourcing a replacement or how to proceed?

Thanks


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EDIT: The split doesn't go all the way around, so I've increased the slack although it wasn't bent at too sharp an angle - the wheel plug to the PC is about the same and is fine.
I really wish manufacturers would switch to braided cables. Charge me $4 more. It's fine. Ferrite couplings work on those too.
 
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Good evening, new to the site and just wanted to mention as others have that I am also experiencing the nibble like wheel pulsations in game menus as well as in car while sitting parked(tested in acc and pc2). As someone brought up earlier in this forum and by rich on my reddit post turning dampener settings to 0 and then moving the wheel around does stop the pulsation,as a side note leaving the wheel static after adjusting dampener off the tick persists, only after moving the wheel does it stop. For those not aware there is a subreddit dedicated to the logitech gpro wheel where I have posted about this.
Mainly posting for visibility for others that are experiencing this issue and in the hopes that its visibility causes logitech to address the issue.
 
Good evening, new to the site and just wanted to mention as others have that I am also experiencing the nibble like wheel pulsations in game menus as well as in car while sitting parked(tested in acc and pc2). As someone brought up earlier in this forum and by rich on my reddit post turning dampener settings to 0 and then moving the wheel around does stop the pulsation,as a side note leaving the wheel static after adjusting dampener off the tick persists, only after moving the wheel does it stop. For those not aware there is a subreddit dedicated to the logitech gpro wheel where I have posted about this.
Mainly posting for visibility for others that are experiencing this issue and in the hopes that its visibility causes logitech to address the issue.

I think this is more a GT7/Playstion issue, because the same thing happens with my Fanatec GT DD Extreme.
 
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