Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[JonP01]

Hi,

I just have another question for Logitech Rich if I may. Do the pedal pivot "hinges" in the Logitech Pro Pedals ever need specific maintenance such as lubrication? The user guide appears to only mention servicing and lubricating the parts between the three "cylinders" and were they pivot at the front of the pedal set and you use a silicone grease for that (I had run out of the original grease and found Molykote 55 silicone grease is a perfect substitute).

I haven't undone any of those hex bolts at the three pedal pivot points to have a look and don't really want to without some guidance as to whether I should even ever touch them or not. I do notice some free play (side to side) in those hinges but since it is exactly the same with all three pedals and I have never ever used the clutch at all, I am assuming that was a specific engineering decision for some reason since the pedals are otherwise far too well made for it to be a random quality control issue.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

There's no specific maintenance needed on the pivot. The free play is not a quality issue - on a part that is long and pivots from a single point, even the tiniest amount of tolerance in the design seems larger than it is.

 

[JonP01]

There's no specific maintenance needed on the pivot. The free play is not a quality issue - on a part that is long and pivots from a single point, even the tiniest amount of tolerance in the design seems larger than it is.

Great. Thank you!

 

[Tommy moon]

If this helps anyone this is what I understand is handled by trueforce verse non-truforce feedback.

@LOGI_Rich if I am wrong, I welcome any corrections but as I understand... Truforce takes both audio and telemetry information and then transmits them together all through audio to the wheelbase.

 

[Tommy moon]

Update...working for me but I have not done any firmware updates in a few months.

Feels superior to what I could put together on my own.

 

[Trk-el-son]

Is the P1 vibration set to On, though?

Exactly my thought. After having been driving for almost a year with Controller 1 Vibration toggled off, (because I did not know better) but every vibration setting maxed out (because I had zero vibration), I get suspicious when I see Vibration at 150. That is a LOT.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The best way to affect it in-game is with the Vibration slider. People think this only applies to the DualSense controller, but it also affects Trueforce Audio levels.

To be clear as well about Trueforce (and I've explained this previously here in this thread, but it's been a while, so worth repeating) - it's not just about the Audio side of things. The Trueforce API is a complete replacement for the applicable API for that platform (DirectInput on PC, Jerry on PS, standard wheel FFB through GIP on Xbox). It consists of two endpoints:

• Kinaesthetic - big spring forces that we're all used to from FFB wheels, but with various advantages over the legacy APIs (report rate, timing, methods to work around slower game FFB update rates)
• Vibrotactile - the higher frequency things that you're all now used to, having owned a Pro Wheel for a while

What gets sent to those endpoints is the purview of the developer, so the vibrotactile endpoint can consist of audio and physics data, but it's depends entirely on what the developer wants to do. They just choose what to send and stream it to that endpoint.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Exactly my thought. After having been driving for almost a year with Controller 1 Vibration toggled off, (because I did not know better) but every vibration setting maxed out (because I had zero vibration), I get suspicious when I see Vibration at 150. That is a LOT.

I believe he's been speaking to support as well, because I've been getting similar queries through them from someone. It seems they do have it turned on, but the next step is to ask whether they've tried different car types and both offline and online modes. But it's odd, because I'm not seeing the same reports from anyone else and the wheel is fine in ACC for them, so we know it's not the wheel.

 

[JonP01]

If this helps anyone this is what I understand is handled by trueforce verse non-truforce feedback.

@LOGI_Rich if I am wrong, I welcome any corrections but as I understand... Truforce takes both audio and telemetry information and then transmits them together all through audio to the wheelbase.

That is very interesting. I actually use a different brand wheelbase and wheelrim but love my Logitech Pro Pedals. I had been curious about how it worked. I am still using a very old sim - so much out of date that I prefer to stick to my older wheelbase that was optimised for the protocols used 20 years ago. But I imagine the trick with using TruForce is getting the "mix" correct - and that can take a lot of time and patience. With my very old sim, for example, I can add certain engine effects to the force feedback but even minuscule changes to the associated parameters can actually make or break the force feedback. Too much and it can override other sensations and even give the wrong impression of what the engine is doing to the driveline. But get the frequency and amplitude dead on and it is wonderful.

I think getting the force feedback "right" on modern sims is a lot harder than the old days - 25 years ago there was just one slider - you couldn't even adjust anything on the hardware itself. A few years later we got a couple more sliders. These days we have a multitude or software and hardware parameters. It means there is a lot more to get right (and make it feel fantastic but also a lot more ways to go wrong). And it is not a matter of someone coming up with a setting - that setting might be great for them but not necessarily others. This is the reason why real race cars are so massively configurable to the driver's requirements compared to the old days as well!

 

[Mumster]

New firmware update out for the base. I’m liking the option to turn on the led on the base at the same time as the wheel hub. Seems like a good update. Not sure when it came out. Did mine last night.

 

[Dragonwhisky]

New firmware update out for the base. I’m liking the option to turn on the led on the base at the same time as the wheel hub. Seems like a good update. Not sure when it came out. Did mine last night.

Do you know the release date for this firmware ?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It’s in the 2025.6 release of G HUB. Everyone should have it by Tuesday.

 

[Flatchat]

@LOGI_Rich Hi Rich - I purchased the PRO wheel and pedals 16 months ago and have used them pretty much every day since. Very happy with how well they have worked but the baseplate for my pedals is now very worn out. I was just looking to see if I can purchase a replacement but your spare parts page says "There are no Spare Parts available for this Product".


So I just thought I'd check in this thread. Is there any way to purchase a new foot plate or am I going to have to come up with some sort of fix myself? Thanks.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Spares will be coming, but the pedal base is not going to be one of them I’m afraid.

 

[Flatchat]

Spares will be coming, but the pedal base is not going to be one of them I’m afraid.

ok, no worries - thanks for the quick reply

 

[Dragonwhisky]

It’s in the 2025.6 release of G HUB. Everyone should have it by Tuesday.

I have G-hub version 2025.5.741244 which appears to have just updated when I launched it a minute or so past. Anything interesting for the G-Pro in the new firmware?

 

[Mumster]

Maybe it’s just me but in GT7 after the update true force seems more refined. Like more range and subtlety when the tires begin to slip. Seems to help when trying to find the limit. Or maybe it’s the placebo effect. 😂

 

[JonP01]

@LOGI_Rich Very happy with how well they have worked but the baseplate for my pedals is now very worn out.

I'm curious - do you use driving shoes or socks (or something else)?

 

[Tommy moon]

View attachment 1472171

The best way to affect it in-game is with the Vibration slider. People think this only applies to the DualSense controller, but it also affects Trueforce Audio levels.

To be clear as well about Trueforce (and I've explained this previously here in this thread, but it's been a while, so worth repeating) - it's not just about the Audio side of things. The Trueforce API is a complete replacement for the applicable API for that platform (DirectInput on PC, Jerry on PS, standard wheel FFB through GIP on Xbox). It consists of two endpoints:

• Kinaesthetic - big spring forces that we're all used to from FFB wheels, but with various advantages over the legacy APIs (report rate, timing, methods to work around slower game FFB update rates)
• Vibrotactile - the higher frequency things that you're all now used to, having owned a Pro Wheel for a while

What gets sent to those endpoints is the purview of the developer, so the vibrotactile endpoint can consist of audio and physics data, but it's depends entirely on what the developer wants to do. They just choose what to send and stream it to that endpoint.

Rich,

Hope you had a great vacation with the family!
Thank you for going back into this level of detail what do you think of this..... am I on the right track?

I the recommended vibration setting for medium speed bop in this class of car with this build of my app is 90 to 100. I think it might have left it off that chart

 

[Flatchat]

I'm curious - do you use driving shoes or socks (or something else)?

Just socks but I'm using the rig most days so i've ended up with two shiny worn patches which are now too smooth so I'm finding my heel slipping and I need to sort it out. I could wear shoes but I'm over 25 years of racing in socks so I don't think I want to change at this point

 

[JonP01]

Just socks but I'm using the rig most days so i've ended up with two shiny worn patches which are now too smooth so I'm finding my heel slipping and I need to sort it out. I could wear shoes but I'm over 25 years of racing in socks so I don't think I want to change at this point

Thanks. That is disappointing since I would have expected it to wear better when using socks. I used the same set of Logitech G25 pedals for at least 12 years before buying the Logitech Pro pedals about two months ago. I never raced daily but certainly about an hour three times per week on average and those G25 pedals had a very shiny circular indentation from all those years of sock driving. I obviously wasn't disappointed with that since those pedals obviously came with the wheel and were vastly cheaper and 12 years is a very long time. But your experience now has me considering adding a removable heel plate on top of the Logitech one. I don't really want to have wear on these pedals given the cost and the fact that I keep my hardware for as long as I do. At least putting a secondary plate on top wouldn't be difficult with these pedals. You could even just use an engineering curing silicone to attach a new plate knowing it is dead easy to return it to stock and the silicone will just come right off with no chemicals and leave no trace. I see there is heel plate non-slip "decal" on eBay for these pedals as well though I haven't read any reviews on it and one would have to be certain it could be removed easily enough without leaving any residue.

 

[Flatchat]

Thanks. That is disappointing since I would have expected it to wear better when using socks. I used the same set of Logitech G25 pedals for at least 12 years before buying the Logitech Pro pedals about two months ago. I never raced daily but certainly about an hour three times per week on average and those G25 pedals had a very shiny circular indentation from all those years of sock driving. I obviously wasn't disappointed with that since those pedals obviously came with the wheel and were vastly cheaper and 12 years is a very long time. But your experience now has me considering adding a removable heel plate on top of the Logitech one. I don't really want to have wear on these pedals given the cost and the fact that I keep my hardware for as long as I do. At least putting a secondary plate on top wouldn't be difficult with these pedals. You could even just use an engineering curing silicone to attach a new plate knowing it is dead easy to return it to stock and the silicone will just come right off with no chemicals and leave no trace. I see there is heel plate non-slip "decal" on eBay for these pedals as well though I haven't read any reviews on it and one would have to be certain it could be removed easily enough without leaving any residue.

I also had a G25 for a similar amount of time as you and it was bulletproof. That was actually one of the main reasons that I stuck with Logitech so I am a bit disappointed by how much my PRO pedals have worn.


I’ve ordered the decal off Ebay, I’ll see how it looks when it arrives. If it’s not good I might consider designing and 3D printing a base plate.

 

[JonP01]

I also had a G25 for a similar amount of time as you and it was bulletproof. That was actually one of the main reasons that I stuck with Logitech so I am a bit disappointed by how much my PRO pedals have worn.


I’ve ordered the decal off Ebay, I’ll see how it looks when it arrives. If it’s not good I might consider designing and 3D printing a base plate.

When I am next at my desktop computer I was going to email the vendor to ask how easily that "decal" can be removed. I would hope it uses some sort of advanced adhesive that does the job but leaves no residue when needing replacement. You would obviously wear the decal too though I suppose if you could get a year out of it and it is relatively painless to replace, it wouldn't be too bad. Although something made of texture-finish sheet metal wouldn't appreciably wear, I prefer the feel of plastic versus metal when wearing socks!

 

[Tommy moon]

It’s in the 2025.6 release of G HUB. Everyone should have it by Tuesday.

Hey I'm trying to get ahead of what changes might come about on Tuesday.

I've been working with my app and it has a lot of interesting suggestions and good list to start a new baseline and retest... But I'm trying to make things as objective and quantifiable as possible to eliminate doubt and confusion.

Any chance I could DM you the specifics of what it's given me so you can tell me if I'm on the right track or what questions to ask? I'm thinking I'm really close to having something that could help us all tremendously here.

 

[matt545]

Is the P1 vibration set to On, though?

Yes, have checked that many times

 

[Tommy moon]

Yes, have checked that many times

Matt...what track, car and tires are you on?

Im looking to eliminate the post firmware confusion...these are the four questions I need to understand to connect the missing dots....I have fall back measures...but these would make it cut and paste nearly...

Hi Rich,
Thanks again for all the insights you’ve been giving us. As the new firmware is coming Tuesday, a lot of us in the GT7/Pro DD community want to make sure we understand what to look for. We’re trying to build consistent baselines so players don’t get lost when the feel changes.

Could you clarify these four things for us?

1. Endpoints: Has the firmware changed how the two TrueForce endpoints are handled (kinaesthetic vs. vibrotactile)?

If yes, then our baseline torque feel and the “detail” (kerbs, rumble, engine) may both need separate recalibration.



2. Report rate & filtering: Did the firmware alter the TrueForce report rate, filtering, or latency?

This would directly impact how we use in-game FFB Filter and Damping.



3. Vibration slider mapping: Does the in-game Vibration slider in GT7 still directly control the vibrotactile endpoint after the update?

You previously confirmed this affects TF, not just the DualSense controller. If its scaling changed, we need to re-map settings for clarity.



4. Torque scaling: Has the firmware adjusted the Nm mapping between in-game torque values and the actual physical torque output of the wheel?

Yes, have checked that many times

Rich,

He has the same glitch I went bonkers over and got me to push Digit onto the topic.

His issue is much more prevalent in online lobbies... Normally people will restart or reset the wheel or something to fix it... But you just can't do that when racing competitively online.

My experience the glitch was usually triggered entering the track and there was no consistent way to eliminate it... Sometimes I could go to a different settings profile on my wheel and back... But a lot of the time you don't have time for that... When you're scrambling at the race start.

You can catch it if your wheel goes from 1080 then to 900 before it locks into the appropriate angle for that car say 550. I know there's been debate on this but, it's real.

Causing really good guys to leave the ecosystem I know several firsthand... Like top 10 in the US region type guys.

 

[Vecchio]

Just socks but I'm using the rig most days so i've ended up with two shiny worn patches which are now too smooth so I'm finding my heel slipping and I need to sort it out. I could wear shoes but I'm over 25 years of racing in socks so I don't think I want to change at this point

Same thing has happened to my base plate, not a big deal although it can get slippery with socks.
I now wear JOTO Water Shoes from Amazon.

Joto Water Shoes

 

[LOGI_Rich]

There’s zero changes to scaling or functionality of Force feedback; Trueforce or legacy.

As for the glitch, that’s why I and support have asked if Matt has tried different car classes and in offline and online mode - the fact that it’s not happening in other titles does suggest this is a potential issue in GT rather than the wheel.

 

[matt545]

There’s zero changes to scaling or functionality of Force feedback; Trueforce or legacy.

As for the glitch, that’s why I and support have asked if Matt has tried different car classes and in offline and online mode - the fact that it’s not happening in other titles does suggest this is a potential issue in GT rather than the wheel.

Hi Rich,
I actually confirmed in the support ticket it’s also happening in ACC.
I’ve since tried reducing my settings so there’s sufficient head room to rule out clipping. It’s definitely not from running too high.
It’s happening with all gr3 cars and at any track. Long sweeping corners are the worst. Rain really exaggerates the feeling in every corner. Undrivable at this point.
Do you have any from of telemetry app I can run to capture what FFB signals are being sent to the wheel?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

How about in non-Gr cars and in offline races? That’s still very pertinent info to have.

There’s no way to run telemetry to monitor the signals, especially on console.