Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[JonP01]

After Flatchat's comment about plastic heel plate wear I took a look at mine - and even after two months and just three hours per week I can see a tell tale "shine circle" on mine as well! As I mentioned, this happened to my G25 pedals as well but since they were so inexpensive and part of the package, I didn't really think much of it and I don't think it really affected my driving either. I think from memory the more it wore, the slower the wear rate though and it probably looked much worse than it actually was.

Perhaps LogiRich could assure us that the wear is merely cosmetic and we are not going to compromise the pedals in any way other than cosmetically with these shiny wear circles. The plastic on the old G25 heel plate was very thick - I have no idea how thick it is on these Pro Pedals. I know the base plate is very strong with metal reinforcement but I suspect the heel plate does not have this.

 

[notarjy]

This is the heel pad on my g pro pedal plate, I purchased in Jan 2023 and generally use them daily since then. I race with moccasin style slippers with a rubber sole, not sure if this makes a difference. I can see some heel marks if I look close but there is no wear on the ridges of the pad, they feel intact with no loss of the material.

Spoiler: large photo

I think it would help to see photos of the wear you are experiencing if you are able.

 

[JonP01]

This is the heel pad on my g pro pedal plate, I purchased in Jan 2023 and generally use them daily since then. I race with moccasin style slippers with a rubber sole, not sure if this makes a difference. I can see some heel marks if I look close but there is no wear on the ridges of the pad, they feel intact with no loss of the material.

Spoiler: large photo

View attachment 1472919

I think it would help to see photos of the wear you are experiencing if you are able.

The wear on mine is barely discernable at this point - I wouldn't be able to easily take a photo unlike my old G25 where it was extremely obvious. At this point it was only because I looked for it. But I was still surprised for what amounts to maybe 30 hours use. I am just concerned that the rate of wear seems higher than it was with my old G25 pedals and that as a result it might compromise their performance (eventually). I keep my hardware for many years so I intend to keep this pedal set in service for as long as my old G25 pedals were.

 

[notarjy]

Interesting, you are experiencing loss of material of the pad? This was a concern of mine when I first got the pedals because I agree I would expect them to last a long time, but after two and half years I am not finding the pad is deteriorating at all. To this point I am mostly impressed with the quality of the materials they have held up well to my use. Thats why I am curious to see the other user's pad.

 

[TurboBoy64]

The Logiplay event is happening next month I think. If they announce a pro h-shifter I will have to do a few backflips out of excitement (then immediately go to the ER).

 

[Dragonwhisky]

The Logiplay event is happening next month I think. If they announce a pro h-shifter I will have to do a few backflips out of excitement (then immediately go to the ER).

Then break the piggy bank.🐖🏦🏧💳

 

[Saidur_Ali]

 

[JonP01]

Interesting, you are experiencing loss of material of the pad? This was a concern of mine when I first got the pedals because I agree I would expect them to last a long time, but after two and half years I am not finding the pad is deteriorating at all. To this point I am mostly impressed with the quality of the materials they have held up well to my use. Thats why I am curious to see the other user's pad.

It's possible that because I am a right foot braker, there might be more friction from my heel than if it simply sits in the same place as it does with left foot brakers. In any case, with my G25 pedals, the plastic had worn completely gloss from use with no texture at all remaining and it did not affect the way they felt to my feet. So hopefully even if mine do wear faster, they won't be any worse than the G25 was.

 

[Tommy moon]

Did the firmware drop?

 

[King_Ears]

Anyone elses trueforce defaulting to 100% on every profile when you switch the wheelbase on? This was fine pre firmware update but since I updated the other day it's not. Very annoying

 

[LOGI_Rich]

You can address this very simply by leaving the wheel setting at 100 and setting the vibration setting in GT7 to what works for you. This way it’ll be fine every time you start the game.

 

[King_Ears]

You can address this very simply by leaving the wheel setting at 100 and setting the vibration setting in GT7 to what works for you. This way it’ll be fine every time you start the game.

Which would be fine if I only played gt7, but I have profiles for iRacing and LMU and both default to 100% when iRacing should be 50% and LMU 0%. As soon as I reset my TF to 35% the other profiles revert to their saved values. Very weird and definitely caused by something in the latest firmware update.

 

[Mumster]

Anyone elses trueforce defaulting to 100% on every profile when you switch the wheelbase on? This was fine pre firmware update but since I updated the other day it's not. Very annoying

Yes same for me.

 

[King_Ears]

Not loosing my marbles then 🤣

 

[LOGI_Rich]

For iRacing it’s a similar thing: set the in-game Wheel LFE volume in the misc tab to the level that works for you.

LMU doesn’t support Trueforce, so it won’t have any effect there.

 

[matt545]

How about in non-Gr cars and in offline races? That’s still very pertinent info to have.

There’s no way to run telemetry to monitor the signals, especially on console.

Hi Rich, confirming it’s the same issue in offline and with non-Gr cars. It’s not as bad in gr2 but the worst in gr3

 

[King_Ears]

Ok. Hopefully it gets rectified in the next firmware update 🤞

Edit. Had only tried my wheel post firmware on PS5 but got onto my PC today and my saved TF values remain intact. So It's obviously just an issue somewhere with playstation and/or gt7.

 

[G35_Skyline]

you guys wearing out the heel plate, why not put something on it?

I just used an old mouse pad... Now I get bit of heel cushion and no wearing down the plate..

Now does anyone have a recommendation for a brake insert...
I don't really like how any of them feel

 

[Tommy moon]

Hi Rich, confirming it’s the same issue in offline and with non-Gr cars. It’s not as bad in gr2 but the worst in gr3

Hi Rich, confirming it’s the same issue in offline and with non-Gr cars. It’s not as bad in gr2 but the worst in

How about in non-Gr cars and in offline races? That’s still very pertinent info to have.

There’s no way to run telemetry to monitor the signals, especially on console.

Rich,

Could you and your team provide a checklist. If a few of us put our heads together and start eliminating variables using a little bit of the scientific method here we could probably get to the bottom of this.

Like perhaps if we had some sort of system process of elimination or whatnot. I feel like we can make a lot of progress working together with the team this way.

Otherwise, I've been developing an app that seems like it might be able to do a lot of this as well... But figured putting our heads together is the best bet.

 

[Trk-el-son]

Yes, that pedal plate will 100% end up with shiny patches. The material is not the wisest choice imho. Shoes, socks, bare feet - it does not matter (but will do the work in more or less time). Simple physics will make sure that over time, with enough repetitions of friction in one spot, that plastic will go shiny.
So for optimum resale value, definitely cover the heel area. I have gone with leather.

(I will add: Foot technique will play a big part in how fast you will make shiny patches. My throttle side went shiny while my brake did not. This due to having my left heel "locked" to the "foot" of the pedal, while my throttle heel was sliding way more. So with a certain technique, you can slow down the wear.)

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Rich,

Could you and your team provide a checklist. If a few of us put our heads together and start eliminating variables using a little bit of the scientific method here we could probably get to the bottom of this.

Like perhaps if we had some sort of system process of elimination or whatnot. I feel like we can make a lot of progress working together with the team this way.

Otherwise, I've been developing an app that seems like it might be able to do a lot of this as well... But figured putting our heads together is the best bet.

At this point we've eliminated the obvious variables. My supposition at this point is that something is briefly interrupting the signal - like ESD or very brief power shortage - which resets the wheel's interface slightly and thus Trueforce Audio doesn't come back. Matt's in Australia so right now it's winter and, depending on exactly where he is, static build up is more likely due to relatively lower humidity.

@matt545 if you race in shoes, does the issue go away if you race in socks/bare feet? Is the power supply for the wheel on its own power socket or sharing with other devices in a multi-socket? If you're on a rig, have you tried grounding it?

 

[JonP01]

I was actually able to take a photo of my heel plate wear though sorry to say it is not very good. My Trakracer RS6 rig is in a corner of the room so this is the only angle I can take a photo from without removing them from the rig altogether. I'd guess they probably have maybe 60 hours use by now.

I suspect my wear pattern is worse than others because of my old school right foot braking so there is more sideways friction on the heel plate than the constant downward weight that would mostly occur with left foot brakers. From what I have seen these days I am now a rare exception to the modern rule!

As I say though, hopefully the wear pattern will be similar to my old G25 (which looked awful after 12 years but actually didn't really feel any different). I guess it will come down to whether the plastic on the heel plate is as good as the old G25 heel plate and if it is just as thick!

 

[Mumster]

Ok. Hopefully it gets rectified in the next firmware update 🤞

Edit. Had only tried my wheel post firmware on PS5 but got onto my PC today and my saved TF values remain intact. So It's obviously just an issue somewhere with playstation and/or gt7.

I was able to fix mine by plugging it into g-hub and toggling the profile memory off then on.

 

[JonP01]

you guys wearing out the heel plate, why not put something on it?

I just used an old mouse pad... Now I get bit of heel cushion and no wearing down the plate..

Now does anyone have a recommendation for a brake insert...
I don't really like how any of them feel

I'm currently looking into options but to be fair my pedals are so relatively new and given I only sim for three hours a week, I really did not expect to be thinking of this only three months in. I did (like another poster) order a stick on covering but I think I would prefer something with a bit of give - similar to the mat I have in my car.

Yes, that pedal plate will 100% end up with shiny patches. The material is not the wisest choice imho. Shoes, socks, bare feet - it does not matter (but will do the work in more or less time). Simple physics will make sure that over time, with enough repetitions of friction in one spot, that plastic will go shiny.
So for optimum resale value, definitely cover the heel area. I have gone with leather.

(I will add: Foot technique will play a big part in how fast you will make shiny patches. My throttle side went shiny while my brake did not. This due to having my left heel "locked" to the "foot" of the pedal, while my throttle heel was sliding way more. So with a certain technique, you can slow down the wear.)

Do you have a photo? I am all open to ideas? I did see one business who sells pads with a bit of "give" to them but unfortunately they only sell in the US and do not post overseas (I am in Australia).

But I was looking around at what I have left over from long completed projects over the years - I have some very thick gasket making material left over - about A4 size and I also have some very durable rubber based sound insulating underlay from another project. I might make a "sandwich" of them glued together with some water based contact adhesive I have left over from yet another job. This is "inspired" by both the comment about the old mouse mat and the leather!! In the end, this of course will wear as well but you can easily replace this when it does (just like a mouse mat...).

you guys wearing out the heel plate, why not put something on it?

I just used an old mouse pad... Now I get bit of heel cushion and no wearing down the plate..

Now does anyone have a recommendation for a brake insert...
I don't really like how any of them feel

Can't really help with the brake insert other than to say I have seen many "solutions" and I am not sure they are the best idea. Logitech state that the original small foam beige piece must be the first to enter the cylinder and I believe there is a very good reason for that. You will notice there is a small hole in the end of that cylinder and I believe it is the combination of that hole plus the porous foam piece that ensure the pressure is equalised within the cylinder when the pedal is depressed (since there is an actual piston at the end of the pedal end that enters the cylinder). You can even hear the sound of the combination of the foam compressing first and the air escaping. This is why I am not sure many of the solutions are a good idea as they may compromise upon this. Of course maybe it has nothing to do with this - it is just my guess based on how I see it has been designed. But there are solutions out there that dispense with the foam piece altogether and "block" the passage with elastomers only. I am not sure this is what Logitech intended even though they realise people will modify things beyond their control.

 

[Tommy moon]

Can't really help with the brake insert other than to say I have seen many "solutions" and I am not sure they are the best idea. Logitech state that the original small foam beige piece must be the first to enter the cylinder and I believe there is a very good reason for that. You will notice there is a small hole in the end of that cylinder and I believe it is the combination of that hole plus the porous foam piece that ensure the pressure is equalised within the cylinder when the pedal is depressed (since there is an actual piston at the end of the pedal end that enters the cylinder). You can even hear the sound of the combination of the foam compressing first and the air escaping. This is why I am not sure many of the solutions are a good idea as they may compromise upon this. Of course maybe it has nothing to do with this - it is just my guess based on how I see it has been designed. But there are solutions out there that dispense with the foam piece altogether and "block" the passage with elastomers only. I am not sure this is what Logitech intended even though they realise people will modify things beyond their control.

That is the best explanation I've heard of for the soft foam piece at the bottom!

I eventually had to ditch the foam piece after lots of frustration finding precision under trail braking.

I didn't use solid spacers or anything crazy so I hope I don't damage anything... But it definitely feels a lot better since I made that switch.

 

[JonP01]

That is the best explanation I've heard of for the soft foam piece at the bottom!

I eventually had to ditch the foam piece after lots of frustration finding precision under trail braking.

I didn't use solid spacers or anything crazy so I hope I don't damage anything... But it definitely feels a lot better since I made that switch.

Yes, everything is a compromise. But there are two solutions out there I know of that use elastomers the entire length of the cylinder and will block that hole off. You will also notice that even the widest of the Logitech supplied elastomers are a lose fit inside the cylinder. The grease is really only because they will randomly brush against the sides of the cylinder all the time while never blocking off a clear passage for air to come into and exit out of the cylinder. So going by my theory, you wouldn't want anything any wider than the stock Logitech pieces either.

 

[Tommy moon]

At this point we've eliminated the obvious variables. My supposition at this point is that something is briefly interrupting the signal - like ESD or very brief power shortage - which resets the wheel's interface slightly and thus Trueforce Audio doesn't come back. Matt's in Australia so right now it's winter and, depending on exactly where he is, static build up is more likely due to relatively lower humidity.

@matt545 if you race in shoes, does the issue go away if you race in socks/bare feet? Is the power supply for the wheel on its own power socket or sharing with other devices in a multi-socket? If you're on a rig, have you tried grounding it?

Rich,

I agree it's a connection issue...but I don't think it's static electricity or efd...

However, how do we get to the bottom of this from here?
Rich to be honest...the frustration ultimately is that there is a disconnect between you and your team it feels. Like digit...you assumed they sent him a wheel...which they did not.

Now I'm organizing a charity event, Currently I have over 20k potentially from two sponsors...and I cannot participate or host lobbies because of these gremlins.

I doubt Asetek is going to take the massive console opportunity for granted.

I feel like the support team at Logitech is great in general, but doesn't seem to care/know enough about this niche... I feel like the nerd that can't sit up the cool table because their gpus are better than mine.

Respectfully,

The console table

I'll post this again...because I believe this is related to the issue. SOMETHING happens here....when this doesn't happen like angle goes from 1080 directly to 540 or what not it's fine. But entering the track, triggers it, sometimes a lobby change....anything with a reconnect is liable.

Before you say I'm crazy...this is happening, if this is EFD you guys should have told me when I asked specifically about that issue when replacing my USB....

Video

 

[JonP01]

Thanks to the comments about home-made heel plate solutions I made my own today. It is very simple: skill level 1 out of 10 needed. It is 4.8 mm gasket cork for the underlay with 4mm EVA foam rubber (as in shoe sole material) for the top layer. It is the exact shape of the existing heel plate. The two layers are sandwiched together with water based contact adhesive. I added a more "grippy" additional 3mm thick EVA foam for the left foot area on the clutch pedal side. Short of a dedicated dead pedal it anchors my left foot much better than before. I secured it to the pedal base itself using 9 strips (in three rows of three) of T-Rex glue strips. I have used them before and you can pull apart what you glue together without leaving residue.

I actually wish I had some red EVA foam for the left foot side (and black for the main part) as it might have looked quite chic but I only had black in both thicknesses.

It works wonderfully with the added bonus that the extra 9mm of elevation made the relationship between my right foot and the accelerator pedal perfect. I was never 100% satisfied with that even with the pedal at its lowest height - it felt like it was optimised for a US side 11 foot and I'm a 10.5. And of course we cannot change the pedal angle - only the horizontal position and height. Now it is perfect and I feel I have better throttle control now because the pedal relationship with my foot now feels absolutely perfect and I am no longer "thinking" about it when driving.

I have no idea how long it will last - my guess is as long as a pair of joggers. But at least it is very easy to make them and the materials are probably only about $30 AUD.

 

[5lab]

My pedal plate is also shiny, I'm planning on putting a strip of skateboard grip tape over the base as it's
1. Designed for stopping feet slipping on a surface
2. Replaceable
3. Lasts ages

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Tommy moon let’s take this offline into private messages.