Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
- 3,410 comments
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Ok, bought this one:
It's pretty expensive, but it should work well, considering the opinions & brand.
Thank you for your help.
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- 6,376
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
Sturdy
Premium
- 912
- England
- js427
In my (non-GT7...!) experience, it really isn't noticeable the majority of the time, there's the occasional mis-shift and sure, you can't pull away smoothly slipping the clutch but unless you're looking to simulate driving in traffic, I think the positives of having an H-pattern and clutch far outweigh its shortcomings. It's personal though of course
I don't hate it at all, it's a good piece for the price, I enjoyed my G25 shifter for years, but the TH8A in comparison is just so tactile and pleasing to use, especially as I prefer to drive older cars typically, the more mechanical feel, the longer throw, the actual shift knob (I have the same one in my Monaro
) it's just a much nicer thing to use, and to go alongside what is a 'PRO' wheel and pedal set (certainly priced as such) the little Driving Force shifter would feel very out of place to me.At this point I've put so much money in to this Logitech wheel / pedal set-up and the whole thing feels so nice to use, I'd happily throw another £200 - £300 at them for an equally high quality feeling switchable sequential / h-pattern shifter.
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Exactly. Good for the price. Fit for purpose. Perfectly matched with older gen Logitech products and I'm sure they'll release a suitably upgraded version to go witgh the Pro setup. I hope its not more than £150. Already paying top dollar for the Pro wheel and pedals. I'd like to not feel like Logitech are extracting every cent they can from us on each complementary product. We'll see!
- 78
- Slovakia
@LOGI_Rich
My Pro Wheel seems broken out of the box, created support ticked 3 days ago, nobody got in touch with me yet. I'm only able to reach sales people who politely refuse to assist while saying I'll be redirected to a dedicated support but nothing's happening.
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Some ticket quotes:
Brand new steering, prior to usage updated via G hub to use the latest FW version, then reconnected to PS5, playing GT7, the wheel keeps randomly freezing, I get message "controller disconnected", game pauses, the wheel displays startup animation but nothing happens, I have to hard reboot it, then it works for a few minutes and the issue repeats.
OK, I tested it further, my findings, when I get the message "controller disconnected", the wheel displays bootup animation, however, I can still press the PS button, the PS5 will pick it up, but the wheel seems to be dead, no force feedback, no rotation, only the face buttons work and rear paddles. I need to hold 2sec the power button to shut it down and reboot it, it will then work booting up, but will disconnect in a minute or so.
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How long am I supposed to wait for the support to reach me? 14 days return period is ticking away.
My Pro Wheel seems broken out of the box, created support ticked 3 days ago, nobody got in touch with me yet. I'm only able to reach sales people who politely refuse to assist while saying I'll be redirected to a dedicated support but nothing's happening.
=====
Some ticket quotes:
Brand new steering, prior to usage updated via G hub to use the latest FW version, then reconnected to PS5, playing GT7, the wheel keeps randomly freezing, I get message "controller disconnected", game pauses, the wheel displays startup animation but nothing happens, I have to hard reboot it, then it works for a few minutes and the issue repeats.
OK, I tested it further, my findings, when I get the message "controller disconnected", the wheel displays bootup animation, however, I can still press the PS button, the PS5 will pick it up, but the wheel seems to be dead, no force feedback, no rotation, only the face buttons work and rear paddles. I need to hold 2sec the power button to shut it down and reboot it, it will then work booting up, but will disconnect in a minute or so.
=====
How long am I supposed to wait for the support to reach me? 14 days return period is ticking away.
- 78
- Slovakia
I'm still waiting for the pedals, so I'm just driving with the clutch paddles mapped to gas and brake. I'm not using extension cables, only the original included one, but I've also tested other cables that I have laying around, unfortunately the result was the same. Also tried all 3 USB ports on the PS5, same result every time. The wheel is mounted on a rig, I never get static shocks. My friend will bring his PS5 over for testing tomorrow. FIY I had been using a Fanatec wheel just a few days ago for about 3 days with zero issues on my PS5 with GT7, but I returned it because the Logitech blew me away right away, whereas the Fanatec DD felt underwhelming, coming from T500RS.
Does it do the same thing if mounted to a desk instead of the rig? I assume you've removed and reseated the wheel rim several times over already? (making sure that you're not squeezing the QR collar when putting it back on the wheel - just push it on until it clicks)
Have you also tried connecting the power supply to a different wall socket (especially if it's in a multi-plug adapter)? Do you notice if the LED on the power supply is steady or sometimes flickers?
Have you also tried connecting the power supply to a different wall socket (especially if it's in a multi-plug adapter)? Do you notice if the LED on the power supply is steady or sometimes flickers?
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- 78
- Slovakia
Yes, I've reseated the wheel at least 3 times. Just unmounted it for the sake of testing and tried a quick race while having it sitting on my lap, but the result is the same, it got disconnected/froze in about 2 minutes. I'm not sure about this, to me it seems like malfunctioning electronics, or buggy firmware but that's highly unlikely. I expect the same results with friends PS5 tomorrow.
- 78
- Slovakia
Yes, I've tried another power outlet, the LED is rock solid as the power brick probably uses large capacitors, the LED does not flicker at all, it takes multiple seconds to fade away when disconnected from the wall socket, and is steady on when in use. At this point there's nothing else to test. I have multiple electronics up and running in my room that work just fine so the power supply is not the issue. If the power brick is faulty I have no means to test it as the LED itself does not tell the whole story, simple multimeter testing only shows the nominal voltage of 48 Volts, but I can't tell if there are any interruptions, would need an oscilloscope for that. There's only one test left with friend's PS5 tomorrow.
GlockPants
Premium
- 1,038
- United States
- GlockPants
This sounds a lot like the issues I've been having. I've gone through the return/refund process a couple times to see if it was the wheel that was potentially the issue.
I would caution you that if your USB ports stop working entirely (when the PS5 is running you'll get a message saying "Too many devices connected.") do not factory reset your console unless you have time to ship the console to Sony for repairs and is still covered under warranty. If you factory reset the console you have to plug in the controller to set up the console, which now that your USB ports don't work, you'll be stuck. This happened to me.
I've been trying to test on my PS4 playing GT Sport while my PS5 is being repaired. But I have the same issue you are having with the wheel disconnecting. I've even gone so far as to buy various electrical testing equipment to see if there are any obvious causes, I have yet to find any.
My wheel is connected to a rig (bolted or unbolted doesn't seem to make a difference), no USB extension cables, power brick voltage outputs are a solid 48V (this is spec according to the information on the bottom of the brick) even during wide voltage fluctuations from the wall outlet.
Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,011
- N Ireland
It arrived today, all seems to be as new and thankfully is working. Just have it attached to the kitchen table for now.
Not going to connect yet to PC or try to update (or is this recommended) still have to get familiar with it.
The feel and quality is indeed nice, what surprised me was that it's not that big at all, when some of the tubers were going on about it being massive. I actually like its design too...
Spent a while briefly looking into the TF and yes like tactile in general it can be superb, quite excellent in what it brings, or if not well configured a bit of a mess and annoying.
The fact that we cannot adjust how specific effect elements are portrayed in the output they have is a bit disappointing and limits the user customisation but it keeps things less complicated. What I found just from my initial first experience was that increasing its gain made certain effects too overbearing yet helped others.
Id like to look into it deeper and go through every setting on the wheel base in more detail as to how/what it does.
The engine response will let us likely determine what frequencies it covers and from that see how the filter feature alters the output range when applied.
I find with normal tactile hearing it can be disconnecting from the experience/immersion and this was the same with the wheelbase, so I would recommend to anyone to use headphones or speakers to drown out its operational noises.
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Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,011
- N Ireland
Feel gutted for you guys that appear to have faulty units, Im actually a bit concerned incase there has been a faulty batch.
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- 78
- Slovakia
You mentioned return/refund process. Did you get a replacement?
GlockPants
Premium
- 1,038
- United States
- GlockPants
I did, but it's not as quick of a process as I'd like.
You'll first need to go to Logitech's return webpage. You need your order number and email that you listed from the original purchase. You'll be asked for a simple explanation for the return and then you'll receive a return shipping label (I recommend using the box it arrived in for the return). Once it arrives at their facility, it should take about 15 business days to process and another 3 to 5 business days to see the refund settle in the account you purchased with (mine was a credit card).
Your results may vary. I'm in the US and the units ship from my state about an hour away, and the return facility was 2 days away. For one entire round, it's taken about a month for the return/refund.
Unfortunately for the replacement you just have to buy another one. So I'm not sure if your situation would allow you to immediately repurchase or if you'd need to wait for the refund. I've done this process twice for the wheel.
If it gives you any hope, my current wheel seems to work more often than not recently. It feels great on GT7. But my current experience on GT Sport is ok for testing the equipment.
My suspicions are that this is some kind of power issue, even though outlet voltages and brick readings are good, my power has been a bit unreliable of late. Keep things plugged into surge protectors to protect your equipment and make sure you're not producing much static with your rig (might be a grounding issue?)
- 78
- Slovakia
Well that sucks hard. I've been using my rig with multiple steering wheels over the years, G25, G29, T500RS, Fanatec DD (last week for 3 days straight without a single dropout) with zero issues, I mean, there's absolute zero issues with static, power supply, or whatever you can think of. I've never had any issues with that, all my electronics are running like a clock. I'm pretty sure there's problem with the steering wheel, either the electronics or the firmware.
Worth mentioning is that the steering wheel does not seem to have any issues running in PC mode, same wall outlet, same usb cord, same everything, when connected to G hub, it is stable always without any disconnections, only the PS4 and PS5 modes are janky, even when doing nothing just sitting in the main ps5 menu the wheel just randomly disconnects, sometimes just after a few seconds after booting up. My PS5 is a launch model, friend's one is the latest one, I'll know more tomorrow when we test it. But either way I'll be returning it. This is not acceptable, the steering wheel is just a pricy paperweight at the moment.
I'm going to purchase another one, if the issue repeats, I'll return it and wait for a hardware revision/new batch later this year. Logitech seems to have some QA problems, something must have slipped through. I wouldn't be surprised if it was just a firmware bug.
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- 14
- United States
Reposting my experience with wheel disconnects and the solution...
I used my G Pro wheel for like 6 months with no disconnect issues then it started doing it randomly a few weeks ago. Nothing had changed in my setup, but I'm wondering if an update to GT7 or the PS5 itself perhaps caused some issue. I saw it mentioned elsewhere by Rich that USB extension cables can cause problems. I ditched the extension cable and replaced the stock micro USB cable with a long high quality one like this...
Anker Powerline+ Micro USB (10ft) The Premium Durable Cable [Double Braided Nylon]
Update
I have run something like 50 races online on GT7 since replacing the cable and have had zero issues.
I used my G Pro wheel for like 6 months with no disconnect issues then it started doing it randomly a few weeks ago. Nothing had changed in my setup, but I'm wondering if an update to GT7 or the PS5 itself perhaps caused some issue. I saw it mentioned elsewhere by Rich that USB extension cables can cause problems. I ditched the extension cable and replaced the stock micro USB cable with a long high quality one like this...
Anker Powerline+ Micro USB (10ft) The Premium Durable Cable [Double Braided Nylon]
Update
I have run something like 50 races online on GT7 since replacing the cable and have had zero issues.
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He's saying that the extension cable he was using was causing a problem so he elected to just get a longer, good quality (necessary if you're going longer) USB cable to replace both the included cable and the extension. The included cable is fully certified with third party labs.
I have to say that it does sound like you've got similar issues to Glockpants with your PS5, because if it's working fine on the PC then it indicates that the issue is less likely to be the wheel itself. Do let us know how things behave with your friend's PS5.
I have to say that it does sound like you've got similar issues to Glockpants with your PS5, because if it's working fine on the PC then it indicates that the issue is less likely to be the wheel itself. Do let us know how things behave with your friend's PS5.
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GlockPants
Premium
- 1,038
- United States
- GlockPants
Yep, literally the same issue. PC mode works fine. PS4 and PS5 mode are where the issues all seem to be. Granted, my PS5 did have all its USB ports fail. However, since this is a similar experience others are having and not just me, I'm inclined to agree that it seems to be a problem with the wheel. I hope Logitech is looking into this.
- 78
- Slovakia
I'm just going to reiterate on hard fact:
The last week, I had been playing GT7 with Fanatec DD pro steering wheel, on the exact same PS5, the exact same USB port, the exact same wall outlet for 3 days straight with zero disconnections. ZERO. NADA. It was rock solid.
The first time I plugged in the Logitech Pro Wheel I got disconnected within 3 minutes and I knew immediately that this is not going to be good.
Absolutely and those are good facts - you'll note that I said "less likely" and not a definitive "not likely". If the same issue occurs with your friend's PS5 then it's definitely going to mean that the wheel needs an RMA. If it's fine on your friend's PS5 though then that's clearly a different conversation.
Any thoughts on this @LOGI_Rich? For context, someone suggested that if I turn TF Audio down to zero, I'll basically be experiencing what its like to drive one of the other top end direct drive wheels like the DD2 Podium from Fanatec.
But it seems like that wheel and others do get force feedback and road and kerb feel, even if its not called Trueforce. Can you expand a bit on how Trueforce differs from/improves on the offerings from other brands?
I haven't gone back and read all your posts again so maybe this is unhelpful and an obsolete suggestion, but if you're using a USB extension cable, have you tried replacing it with an active repeater type USB cable, or just moving the PS5 closer to the wheel and eliminating the extension cable, just for the sake of testing and seeing whether this solves the issue?
A rogue USB extension cable caused me all sorts of issues many months ago, and they were all solved with a 20 EUR replacement cable.
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I've posted this elsewhere as people tend to think of Trueforce as just being about the added effects, but it's not - it's a whole new interface made up of two aspects:
Kinaesthetic feedback - what we usually think of with force feedback wheels... the larger spring forces etc. just running at a higher level of fidelity
Vibrotactile feedback - the ability for the game to stream audio and physics data to the wheel
When you turn TF Audio down to zero then you have effectively switched off that Vibrotactile endpoint, but the Kinaesthetic endpoint is still running with Trueforce, with the advantages that it provides. So yes, turning TF Audio down to zero does get you close to what other wheels are feeling although even then we still have advantages thanks to the 1ms haptic thread that we can run on console (other wheels will only manage 4/5ms depending on which console we're talking). Developers also have other key advantages when using the Trueforce interface, that mean they have a far more granular level of control of the forces that they can send to the wheel as well as reading what the wheel is currently doing - that, coupled with the 1ms thread is what I mean when we say that it's a higher level of fidelity.
Of course, once you then turn TF Audio back up again you're getting so much more than without it.
Kinaesthetic feedback - what we usually think of with force feedback wheels... the larger spring forces etc. just running at a higher level of fidelity
Vibrotactile feedback - the ability for the game to stream audio and physics data to the wheel
When you turn TF Audio down to zero then you have effectively switched off that Vibrotactile endpoint, but the Kinaesthetic endpoint is still running with Trueforce, with the advantages that it provides. So yes, turning TF Audio down to zero does get you close to what other wheels are feeling although even then we still have advantages thanks to the 1ms haptic thread that we can run on console (other wheels will only manage 4/5ms depending on which console we're talking). Developers also have other key advantages when using the Trueforce interface, that mean they have a far more granular level of control of the forces that they can send to the wheel as well as reading what the wheel is currently doing - that, coupled with the 1ms thread is what I mean when we say that it's a higher level of fidelity.
Of course, once you then turn TF Audio back up again you're getting so much more than without it.
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- Airwolf303
