Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

I think he likes the idea of the physical dial rather than software method. But yeah, seems like overkill. I guess one shouldn't be messing with it all that much once its dialled in to preferred feel? Or do you think it varies by vehicle within a game?
 
Actually I should be even more clear on this: it won’t work. If you connect the Pro Pedals into the adapter then the adapter is converting from the USB to the serial port, so it will only work when connected to a G-series wheel.

As for brake force, it’s best set to the level that works for you and then leave it, in order to ensure you have consistency in your braking.
 
Had a quick check on the forums for setting up the G Pro on Project Cars 2. Couldn’t find anything?

in a nutshell, I can dial it in pretty close or close enough to be drivable and enjoyable, except the wheel gets oscillating down the straights. If I’m holding the wheel it just shimmy’s a bit, if I were to let go of the wheel it would rapidly turn left and right until it ripped itself right off the stand. I turned dampener up in the wheel and I think I got that to go away but the ffb just felt like mush after adjusting that setting so high. Dead zone in the game is at 1, any higher and it gives a really weird feel when turning through the center point, like there’s a lobe you have to jump past, as in it won’t sit in center, it’s either left a bit or right a bit.

Does anybody have any suggested settings? Thanks
 
Anyone getting increased oscillations at high speeds on GT7 since the update?

With gr1 cars at high speed it the wheel shakes pretty violently left and right and takes all my strength to stop the car from spinning out, which happens instantly if i let it go.
 
i just deleted all old files in LGHUB. re installed it. re installed iracing too but i dont think that changed anything. delete app.ini and BAM im back. wtf DID I DO? unsure. but this wheel is fantastic. i replaced my MICRO USB as well but i think a setting in LGHUB was corrrupt or iracing settings issue. Thanks Rich for dealing with me. if anyone wants to know this LOGI PRO WHEEL is LIFE CHANGING. compared to a 923 and 920. i almost cried feeling the trueforce and 5nm alone, haha its insane. Now im waiting for their formula wheel to come out. if and when?
 
Last edited:
@hawkeyez What have you got the force feedback flavour set to in PC2’s options?

@HRobbosH set the FFB sensitivity to 1 and reduce the max torque. It’s the sensitivity that contributes the most to oscillation but in the high downforce cars you’ll find you need that set low.
 
@hawkeyez What have you got the force feedback flavour set to in PC2’s options?

@HRobbosH set the FFB sensitivity to 1 and reduce the max torque. It’s the sensitivity that contributes the most to oscillation but in the high downforce cars you’ll find you need that set low.
Put another hour into it. Lol. it’s better. Ill try to go by memory.

RAW
GAIN 50ish
VOLUME 60ish
TONE 80ish
FX 30ish

shut dampener off to zero in game and running 55 on the wheel, ffb filter on wheel is at 10 I think.
Still get shimmies but I honestly think it’s just the game.
if you have some awesome suggested settings I’ll try them, I’ll just take screenshots of what o have now before trying yours because I don’t want to lose the. Don’t know if I have it good or I got used of it and fed up lol

tone was the setting that sorted out the super light wheel during corners, didn’t like that, i cranked gain and volume to zero and put tone at 100 and realized it’s sort of responsible for cornering strength or something.
 
@LOGI_Rich Lets say I want to "turn off" Trueforce for a few runs just to see how my Pro Wheel would feel without it and how non-Trueforce wheels (like say a Fanatec Podium DD2) would feel.

How could I do this?
 
All going to plan I should have the wheel/pedals early in the week (ebay / boxed as a new purchase) for £1000 🤞

Look forward to my first experience with a DD wheel and having followed the PC hardware scene the last few years watching several brands and products come to the fore, well I never thought back then my first DD wheel would be a Logitech... :)

Yet this does seem to be the best option for GT7 and primarily this is what I am focused on at the moment.
This is an incredible title in VR, and combined with nice tactile with a DD wheel and the TF features, I expect it will be a very entertaining, immersive and enjoyable experience.
 
Last edited:
turn trueforce audio to zero on wheel settings
Wow really? I did try that and it felt totally strange. Are you saying that the top tier wheels like Podium DD2 have NONE of those kerb feel vibrations etc? Really?

Edit: this review on the DD2 seems to indicate that there's lots of force feedback with that product too.

Perhaps @LOGI_Rich or someone else can explain how the Trueforce force feedback differs from/improves on the feedback in the DD2?
 
Last edited:
@TimmyTimmy Is there a possibility that you're nudging the clutch? Either the actual pedal or one of the dual clutch paddles? If you do this then it will shift to neutral... although you will be able to then change gear with the gear paddles to carry on, so do check if your clutch is actuated at all using the indicator bars on the OLED screen of the wheel base.
@LOGI_Rich Thanks very much indeed!!! After a few days of testing (on account of the intermittent nature of the issue) I believe that you have solved my problem.

It appears that sometimes I was inadvertently activating the clutch pedal when I was braking, because I had the pedals too close together. My foot would sometimes catch the clutch pedal. So I adjusted the pedal spacing and now the problem seems to be gone. Btw, it is so easy to adjust these pedals - they are very nicely engineered indeed.

Thank you once again!
 
@LOGI_Rich Thanks very much indeed!!! After a few days of testing (on account of the intermittent nature of the issue) I believe that you have solved my problem.

It appears that sometimes I was inadvertently activating the clutch pedal when I was braking, because I had the pedals too close together. My foot would sometimes catch the clutch pedal. So I adjusted the pedal spacing and now the problem seems to be gone. Btw, it is so easy to adjust these pedals - they are very nicely engineered indeed.

Thank you once again!
The clutch in GT7 is stupid. It’s essentially a switch not a clutch. I don’t know of any manual transmission car with a clutch pedal that just resorts to neutral as soon as you touch the clutch.

Apparently if you have the shifter then that clutch is supposed to work like a clutch, but it seems funny that you’d have to buy the shifter just to get GT7 to disengange the transmission while the pedal I pushed in and then engage it again as you take your foot off the clutch… without having to select a gear!
 
I have a shifter and I gave up on the clutch in GT7 soon after it launched. Was too frustrating to use. They did say they'd improve it from GTS and make it less of an on/off switch. I don't ever remember driving it and feeling like this was true. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!
I seem to remember often finding myself in situations where it somehow got into N, and I couldn't get it back into gear like one can with a real stick shift car. I seem to recall that GT7 forces you to put it back into the exact gear it was in before it went to N, which is obviously total garbage for the "real driving simulator".

I also found it frustrating to never be able to use an H shifter on one of Praiano's GT7 tunes because he usually uses a racing gearbox and IIRC, clutch implementation only works on a "Manual" gearbox, not a racing one. Maybe this is accurate in terms of simulation but it reduces the fun for me.

Can anyone update as to whether GT7 clutch implementation has improved in recent updates?
 
I probably buy a PRO shifter.Now just waiting for it to release.Could take a while if ever.
Definitely not going to buy the adapter and the available entry level shifter.
Not even sure if I would like the Clutch implementation in GT7.
Never tried it. It needs to feel very real in order to be immersive.
So when clutch is 50% then lots of revs but no traction etc.
Clutch slip is engine off.. etc..
Probably it's not that well implemented?

Anyone got some details to share on how it works and how good it is in GT7?
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Well even if it worked like it should it could help save slides? Just thinking when I drive on ice, in my manual vehicle when I was a teen, the clutch was my friend. Start losing traction, push clutch in and gain control. Can you I wings how dangerous it would be if in a real car you had to push the clutch in and then let it out and before it would go again you had to put it back into gear? Sure you could get used of it but simply pushing the clutch in and out again is intuitive. But you’re right there needs to be a linear progression somewhat in the clutch not just on off.

maybe with the pro shifter it will work like that idk
 
Well even if it worked like it should it could help save slides? Just thinking when I drive on ice, in my manual vehicle when I was a teen, the clutch was my friend. Start losing traction, push clutch in and gain control. Can you I wings how dangerous it would be if in a real car you had to push the clutch in and then let it out and before it would go again you had to put it back into gear? Sure you could get used of it but simply pushing the clutch in and out again is intuitive. But you’re right there needs to be a linear progression somewhat in the clutch not just on off.

maybe with the pro shifter it will work like that idk
Ok so right now GT&'s implementation of clutch en H shifter is just clutch on/off and not linear?
Than for GT7 it is an no go for me as is an I will happily remove the clutch from my Pro Pedals.
Love the pedal shifters so no worries. Would just be very cool to have an H pattern shifter with clutch driving old Rarri's and Porsches.
 
Last edited:
Ok so right now GT&'s implementation of clutch en H shifter is just clutch on/off and not linear?
Than for GT7 it is an no go for me as is an I will happily remove the clutch from my Pro Pedals.
Love the pedal shifters so no worries. Would just be very cool to have an H pattern shifter with clutch driving old Rarri's and Porsches.
I haven't used an H-shifter in GT7 but based on how it's been since GT5:Prologue (when I got my G25), I'd guess it's a crap on / off switch, there's maybe a millimetre of travel where it technically 'slips', but it's not noticeable or useable.

In addition, they have enforced lots of weird unrealistic limits on how you change gear to stop it being an advantage in time trials, things like absolutely 0 throttle whatsoever when you physically push the stick in to gear, even if clutch is right down and so on.

It's a crap implementation, but really once racing, you never slip the clutch, you can get used to being very deliberate with coming fully off the throttle when shifting up, and it's so much more of a tactile experience actually shifting gears.

A bit like you, I'm waiting for a 'PRO' shifter from logitech, because the plastic child's toy they currently offer is not acceptable alongside a £1,000 wheel :)
 
I haven't used an H-shifter in GT7 but based on how it's been since GT5:Prologue (when I got my G25), I'd guess it's a crap on / off switch, there's maybe a millimetre of travel where it technically 'slips', but it's not noticeable or useable.

In addition, they have enforced lots of weird unrealistic limits on how you change gear to stop it being an advantage in time trials, things like absolutely 0 throttle whatsoever when you physically push the stick in to gear, even if clutch is right down and so on.

It's a crap implementation, but really once racing, you never slip the clutch, you can get used to being very deliberate with coming fully off the throttle when shifting up, and it's so much more of a tactile experience actually shifting gears.

A bit like you, I'm waiting for a 'PRO' shifter from logitech, because the plastic child's toy they currently offer is not acceptable alongside a £1,000 wheel :)
Indeed but an expensive pro shifter with ****** GT7 implementation is not something I would buy either.
 
Last edited:
I have used the driving force shifter for about 4 years and I don't get all the haters. Yes its a very light throw and not like a racing car, but I've driven many real life vehicles that have similarly easy shifters. On the plus side, shifting with an H shifter is just hella fun even if you do it clutchless. Part of the driving experience for me. I grew up driving stick and shunning autos.
 
Guys, curious as to what are popular settings for GT7 or do some of you change this based on the car or mood?
If you start a thread I’d post in there. Would be nice to have a bunch of different peoples settings handy to try. I don’t change per car but I did recently play ACC and it was much more lively and heavier so I went back to GT7 and cranked the strength up a little and reduced all the feedback filter and dampening. So far my wheel doesn’t shimmy on the straights in that game, I may dial it back a hair and then go dial back ACC some more. I think I prefer a lighter wheel, but the G Pro is nice with having all that headroom.
 
Hello, does anyone know what kind of USB extension cable do I need to buy to have no issues with this wheel? I'm connecting it to PS5 and will use VR2. Do I need USB 2.0 type or USB 3.0 type? Are there any special cables that would make my experience better? I want to buy a 2-3m one.
 
Hello, does anyone know what kind of USB extension cable do I need to buy to have no issues with this wheel? I'm connecting it to PS5 and will use VR2. Do I need USB 2.0 type or USB 3.0 type? Are there any special cables that would make my experience better? I want to buy a 2-3m one.
Basic extension cables are not recommended. You need an Active Repeater cable.
 
Basic extension cables are not recommended. You need an Active Repeater cable.
I can't find a single one that is 2-3m. Maybe there is no data loss when it's shorter? The shortest ones I've found are 5m. Do I need USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? I'm considering buying just a 5m cable, without any extensions. If I remember correctly, the one that is included in the wheel is 2m only?
 
Yes, availability will vary by country. On Amazon UK I can find 2 and 3 metre active repeaters with no problem, but on Amazon PL 5m is the minimum. That's fine because the key point is that it's an Active Repeater and not a basic extension - I've seen basic extensions cause so many issues in the past that it's my standard recommendation to always avoid them.

It doesn't matter whether it's USB 2.0 or 3.0.
 
Ok, thank you. I think I will just buy a Delock USB-A - microUSB 5 m cable. This way I will most likely have fewer issues than trying to get a perfect extension cable.
 
That still counts as an extension :)

Feel free to give it a try but if you run into any issues then an Active Repeater is the way to go.
Even if I don't attach your cable to it and just use a single cable (it's a single cable)?

Btw. Thank you for your patience and time.

This is the exact cable I want to buy (Polish shop):

 
Last edited:
Back