Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[miroshi]

This has nothing to do with the quick release mechanism, I used large pliers to rotate the wheel directly at the hub (used soft material between the pliers and the hub to avoid damage) so I would not be applying force through the quick release and I was able to reproduce the noises so I'm pretty sure it's coming from the hub assembly. I'll try to disassemble the housing tomorrow and inspect it directly because I'm just not having fun anymore. Once you hear it you can't unhear it and I constantly think about it when driving. I just spent 2 hours cruising at Tsukuba, just listening for the clicks. It's driving me nuts.

 

[IfAndOr]

Mine is silent when rotating. Either with the wheel mounted or not. That clonking by @miroshi doesn't sound quite right. I see you still have the protective cellophane covering on the front of your wheelbase. I hope you have removed it from the fan outlet at the rear?

That right knob actually ‘clicks’ in and out and doesn’t sit properly, looks like a manufacturing fault.

But it's also a button, it's supposed to click in and out. That's why it doesn't sit flush, just like the left knob. Looking at your picture it appears to be exactly the same as mine - which is fine. I think you might be seeing a fault where none exists?
Also, turn the Trueforce level down on the wheel or in-game if it's too much. It's supposed to supplement the experience not overwhelm.

 

[Dan_Tes]

Mine is silent when rotating. Either with the wheel mounted or not. That clonking by @miroshi doesn't sound quite right. I see you still have the protective cellophane covering on the front of your wheelbase. I hope you have removed it from the fan outlet at the rear?



But it's also a button, it's supposed to click in and out. That's why it doesn't sit flush, just like the left knob. Looking at your picture it appears to be exactly the same as mine - which is fine. I think you might be seeing a fault where none exists?
Also, turn the Trueforce level down on the wheel or in-game if it's too much. It's supposed to supplement the experience not overwhelm.

It's not like that, you can pull it and it clicks out, push it it clicks in. It's not supposed to do that. Using it as a button still works normally. I know how the wheel works, I've been using it a lot. The button hasn't been manufactured properly, it's junk. When you twist it it's like a wonky wheel on a peasants cart from the 1800s. Not what you expect for £1000.

 

[IfAndOr]

you can pull it and it clicks out, push it it clicks in.

Ah, I see, no it's not supposed to do that! Mine has a nice positive motion to the turn and click.

 

[Turboracer]

Ah, I see, no it's not supposed to do that! Mine has a nice positive motion to the turn and click.

Mine too. Very sturdy pushable endless encoder

 

[RJ83]

Ok, who else is able to replicate similar creaking/clicking noises when following the exact testing method (No Trueforce involved)? @Turboracer confirmed similar problems, who else?

Mine is silent like some others here. I used my wheel i guess maybe around 50 hours (at no more than 2/3 peak power). As you already noticed it at only 30 hours in it does make me wonder if it wasn't there all along and you didn't discern it before through all the ff effects. 30 hours seems very short for an issue to develop.

I would send it back though instead of opening it up, as opening would probably void the warranty.

 

[Dan_Tes]

Ah, I see, no it's not supposed to do that! Mine has a nice positive motion to the turn and click.

The left knob seems to be fine, it sits flush with the wheel, rotates smoothly and doesn't 'jiggle' like that when I pull/push it. The right knob looks like the plastic was badly manufactured as it extends 'beyond' the blue ring if you like, over the spindle in an awkward way that I think has stopped it being pushed on fully.

I am already frustrated because I only bought the G Pro because I was fed up with my G923 being sent off for repairs when it was only 2 months old. To have two wheels in three months from the same manufacturer and them both have manufacturing defects is extremely frustrating. Especially as it's my first venture into sim racing with a wheel!

 

[miroshi]

There are no warranty seals, I'm fine, just two stupid security torx screws, which fortunately I have a bit for.

Google: "Most consumers don't know that these stickers are actually illegal—and that's because manufacturers don't want you to. Under the 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the Feds mandated that you can open your electronics without voiding the warranty, regardless of what the language of your warranty says.Oct 11, 2018"

And guess what, I contacted the support and 14 hours later no response, pretty much the standard as I've already found out, from my prior experience I'll be probably waiting at least a few more days for anyone to response and I guess their response will probably just insult my intelligence and patience. If it was the Fanatec support I'd have already been reading their response. They were super responsive when I decided to return the Fanatec wheel. Logitech support in compariosn is an absolute joke. I had zero issues with the Fanatec wheel, but the stupid Logitech G Pro is simply a superior product, aside from these glaring issues I'm having.

Yesterdays testing revealed that these creaks and clicks do disappear when I turn the wheel 180 Degree in-game (car on track idling) and rotate the wheel back and forth in that position. It turns out that the direction of the load and as well the load I'm applying by resting my hands play a big role. In this 180 position, when I started pushing with my hands upwards whilst rotating back and forth the clicks and creaks reappeared. So there you have it. Definitely something wrong with the hub assembly.

 

[RafalDybek]

There are no warranty seals, I'm fine, just two stupid security torx screws, which fortunately I have a bit for.

Google: "Most consumers don't know that these stickers are actually illegal—and that's because manufacturers don't want you to. Under the 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the Feds mandated that you can open your electronics without voiding the warranty, regardless of what the language of your warranty says.Oct 11, 2018"

And guess what, I contacted the support and 14 hours later no response, pretty much the standard as I've already found out, from my prior experience I'll be probably waiting at least a few more days for anyone to response and I guess their response will probably just insult my intelligence and patience. If it was the Fanatec support I'd have already been reading their response. They were super responsive when I decided to return the Fanatec wheel. Logitech support in compariosn is an absolute joke. I had zero issues with the Fanatec wheel, but the stupid Logitech G Pro is simply a superior product, aside from these glaring issues I'm having.

Yesterdays testing revealed that these creaks and clicks do disappear when I turn the wheel 180 Degree in-game (car on track idling) and rotate the wheel back and forth in that position. It turns out that the direction of the load and as well the load I'm applying by resting my hands play a big role. In this 180 position, when I started pushing with my hands upwards whilst rotating back and forth the clicks and creaks reappeared. So there you have it. Definitely something wrong with the hub assembly.

So how? Have you opened the case yet?

 

[mose121]

There are no warranty seals, I'm fine, just two stupid security torx screws, which fortunately I have a bit for.

Google: "Most consumers don't know that these stickers are actually illegal—and that's because manufacturers don't want you to. Under the 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the Feds mandated that you can open your electronics without voiding the warranty, regardless of what the language of your warranty says.Oct 11, 2018"

And guess what, I contacted the support and 14 hours later no response, pretty much the standard as I've already found out, from my prior experience I'll be probably waiting at least a few more days for anyone to response and I guess their response will probably just insult my intelligence and patience. If it was the Fanatec support I'd have already been reading their response. They were super responsive when I decided to return the Fanatec wheel. Logitech support in comparison is an absolute joke. I had zero issues with the Fanatec wheel, but the stupid Logitech G Pro is simply a superior product, aside from these glaring issues I'm having.

Yesterdays testing revealed that these creaks and clicks do disappear when I turn the wheel 180 Degree in-game (car on track idling) and rotate the wheel back and forth in that position. It turns out that the direction of the load and as well the load I'm applying by resting my hands play a big role. In this 180 position, when I started pushing with my hands upwards whilst rotating back and forth the clicks and creaks reappeared. So there you have it. Definitely something wrong with the hub assembly.

Just send it back and get a new one under warranty already. Whining about it here doesn't really help you,or them, to rectify the issue. It's a brand new product, and the first of its kind (Direct-drive) from this company. There are always bound to be some snags with any entirely new product line. You should see all the problems I deal with when it comes to new cars. Used to be the first year of a new model was not the best to buy. That was back when they took twice as much time to develop the car. Now they pump them out to keep up with the market, and the first 2-3 years are now a big question mark for any new model.

 

[miroshi]

Just send it back and get a new one under warranty already. Whining about it here doesn't really help you,or them, to rectify the issue. It's a brand new product, and the first of its kind (Direct-drive) from this company. There are always bound to be some snags with any entirely new product line. You should see all the problems I deal with when it comes to new cars. Used to be the first year of a new model was not the best to buy. That was back when they took twice as much time to develop the car. Now they pump them out to keep up with the market, and the first 2-3 years are now a big question mark for any new model.

It will take at least 17 days to get a replacement, not counting in days spent chatting with support trying to convince them that it's a manufacturing fault. Been there done that. If it's just a loose screw I rather fix that myself.

 

[IfAndOr]

To have two wheels in three months from the same manufacturer and them both have manufacturing defects is extremely frustrating.

Sorry to hear that and I can see how that would indeed be frustrating. All I can say is that after owning 4 Logitech wheels over a 15 year period I've never had a problem with any of them. In fact that was a deciding factor in choosing the Pro wheel over anything else. Perhaps I've been fortunate or perhaps you've been unfortunate. I hope you get the wonky wheel/button sorted out.

If it's just a loose screw I rather fix that myself.

If it is just this then great and I hope it is. However then Logitech won't know which screw was loose and then be able to rectify it for future production, so it could happen again. And the fact you're on here saying that you're going to tamper with the wheel is not going to help with any future warranty claim. I'm no expert but I'm not sure US federal law will help you in Slovakia. 😉

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@miroshi we absolutely understand your frustration. However, it really must be emphasised that this is bad luck and, as you've seen from others, not an endemic issue with the Pro Wheel. You would need to raise a ticket in order to get the wheel exchanged and, as before with the issue that turned out to be caused by the TV (we're still trying to reproduce this), I can help get that moving quicker, but there does need to be a ticket in the system for me to do that.

For anyone else that gets a similar issue then it's not normal, but do be sure that it's purely mechanical before raising a support ticket i.e. eliminate game-specific effects by testing in more than one title (and without a title running at all, as Miroshi has done).

@Dan_Tes The rotation noise you're getting is different from Miroshi's, as you say, although I'm very surprised that you can feel it in-game, simply because it doesn't appear to be a motor-based sound. In your earlier video it sounds like there's a catch at certain points of rotation, but in most corners you won't be rotating the wheel that much. Regardless, the catch shouldn't be happening so please raise a ticket with support. The dial being ever so slightly non-concentric looks within manufacturing tolerances from the image that you sent though; if you've got video of it in motion then that would be helpful for support as well.

 

[Dan_Tes]

@miroshi we absolutely understand your frustration. However, it really must be emphasised that this is bad luck and, as you've seen from others, not an endemic issue with the Pro Wheel. You would need to raise a ticket in order to get the wheel exchanged and, as before with the issue that turned out to be caused by the TV (we're still trying to reproduce this), I can help get that moving quicker, but there does need to be a ticket in the system for me to do that.

For anyone else that gets a similar issue then it's not normal, but do be sure that it's purely mechanical before raising a support ticket i.e. eliminate game-specific effects by testing in more than one title (and without a title running at all, as Miroshi has done).

@Dan_Tes The rotation noise you're getting is different from Miroshi's, as you say, although I'm very surprised that you can feel it in-game, simply because it doesn't appear to be a motor-based sound. In your earlier video it sounds like there's a catch at certain points of rotation, but in most corners you won't be rotating the wheel that much. Regardless, the catch shouldn't be happening so please raise a ticket with support. The dial being ever so slightly non-concentric looks within manufacturing tolerances from the image that you sent though; if you've got video of it in motion then that would be helpful for support as well.

Thanks Rich, I've taken a video and will upload it to youtube as well. Will raise a ticket. These annoyances are frustrating because when it's doing it's thing it's excellent; Especially with the new FFB settings on GT7 which have made it come alive (ACC breaks my wrists lol)

EDIT: Wonky wheel knob:

 

[frank dill]

Does this sound normal? I have it bolted down to a proper rig plus I'm using the Logitech desk holder. It only happens in the turns where feedback is the strongest.

 

[hawkeyez]

Just finished racing for the night. Felt the “tick” when turning left. But here’s the thing, it’s only after I’ve taken a right hand turn and usually a smoother right hand turn. Then the next left, I feel the “tick”. But not always. I haven’t tested without FFB etc off which I’ll do this weekend if I remember.

if I had to guess, I’d say it’s the spring behind the quick release collar loading up or something on right hand turns. I have to think about it for a bit here and look at which way that spring coils. If it’s not that spring winding up and then releasing a small amount just enough to make the “tick” feeling in the wheel... then I’d guess its one of those little ball bearings that lock in the hub divots. Maybe a divot got machined out a hair to big and the ball bearing sort of catches sometimes and when it loosens up I feel it.

However, the fact it only does it when turning left (as far as I’ve noticed anyway) really makes me think it’s that spring.
without headphones on it’s barely audible but I can definitely feel it.

Ill have to do a bunch of driving without FFB on I guess. Not the funnest thing to do but might be worth the time to see if it’s still doing it.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Does this sound normal? I have it bolted down to a proper rig plus I'm using the Logitech desk holder. It only happens in the turns where feedback is the strongest.

Which platform and title is this? It looks like ACC but I can't hear any Trueforce Audio coming from the base. Does it do the same thing in other titles and outside of games?

 

[RafalDybek]

Which platform and title is this? It looks like ACC but I can't hear any Trueforce Audio coming from the base. Does it do the same thing in other titles and outside of games?

I had a similar sound recently after removing and reinstalling the rim, but it helped to forcefully withdraw the quick-release collar by hand towards the base. I noticed that the flange moved back about 2 mm and pressing around the entire perimeter eliminated this noise. This may not be it, but it's worth a try.

 

[miroshi]

Does this sound normal? I have it bolted down to a proper rig plus I'm using the Logitech desk holder. It only happens in the turns where feedback is the strongest.

Those creaks sound awfully similar to my issue. How does your wheel sound when turning the wheel while sitting in the front ps5 menu, without any game running? Slowly turning the wheel from one direction to opposite direction, going over 0 degree mark, gradually applying more load, as in my test here:

 

[frank dill]

Which platform and title is this? It looks like ACC but I can't hear any Trueforce Audio coming from the base. Does it do the same thing in other titles and outside of games?

Every title, stronger to feedback the louder it becomes, it sounds like creaking plastic.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

If you look at Miroshi's videos on the previous page and the actions he was using to produce the noise, especially the one without the wheel rim attached, are you able to replicate the noise then as well?

 

[DC5Remy]

Every title, stronger to feedback the louder it becomes, it sounds like creaking plastic.

That’s not the sound of the desk it’s mounted to being twisted?

 

[miroshi]

Here's more video samples, in this test, GT7, force feedback 7(game), 11(wheel), Trueforce 0(wheel), vibrations 0(game).
I'm driving the car on a straight, waving left to right.

1. test = hands resting on the wheel = creaking / clicking noises

2. test = hands pushing upwards = almost silent


Although I first suspected the quick release mechanism to be the culprit I definitely ruled out that possibility by using pliers to rotate the wheel at the hub as mentioned in an earlier post. Also the QR is firmly pushed as far as it can go and the rig itself is a full metal construction. The creaks and clicks come from the wheel, somewhere from the hub assembly, it's very hard to pinpoint the source.

 

[Abelardo]

Hello, if I update the firmware, the profiles with their settings that I have saved on the steering wheel are deleted?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Hello, if I update the firmware, the profiles with their settings that I have saved on the steering wheel are deleted?

They are not deleted.

 

[hawkeyez]

Here's more video samples, in this test, GT7, force feedback 7(game), 11(wheel), Trueforce 0(wheel), vibrations 0(game).
I'm driving the car on a straight, waving left to right.

1. test = hands resting on the wheel = creaking / clicking noises

2. test = hands pushing upwards = almost silent


Although I first suspected the quick release mechanism to be the culprit I definitely ruled out that possibility by using pliers to rotate the wheel at the hub as mentioned in an earlier post. Also the QR is firmly pushed as far as it can go and the rig itself is a full metal construction. The creaks and clicks come from the wheel, somewhere from the hub assembly, it's very hard to pinpoint the source.

Are you bolted down or clamped down? The first video it looks like the wheel base is almost rocking. Second video not as much? Maybe pushing up is essentially tightening that clamp just enough. And yes it sounds like plastic creaking which is why I’m wondering if its the table clamp.

 

[miroshi]

Are you bolted down or clamped down? The first video it looks like the wheel base is almost rocking. Second video not as much? Maybe pushing up is essentially tightening that clamp just enough. And yes it sounds like plastic creaking which is why I’m wondering if its the table clamp.

Firmly bolted, metal to metal. The wheel is rocking slightly because the metal construction does not provide high enough rigidity, the rig itself is completely silent no matter how much I rock it. I'll be reinforcing the rig in the summer. The creaks and clicks do come from the wheel base.

BTW. the footage is a bit wobbly because the camera stabilisation software got tripped somehow. The phone was completely stationary on a tripod.

 

[hawkeyez]

Firmly bolted, metal to metal.

Weird the top plate doesn’t look large enough to span the three bolt holes. Anyway that sucks and that noise would get annoying. I definitely have a different tick sound. Mine is like just one “tick” going left and won’t happen again until you have a faster gradual right hander, then you won’t feel that “tick” again until you turn left. Hope you get yours figured out.

 

[miroshi]

Weird the top plate doesn’t look large enough to span the three bolt holes. Anyway that sucks and that noise would get annoying. I definitely have a different tick sound. Mine is like just one “tick” going left and won’t happen again until you have a faster gradual right hander, then you won’t feel that “tick” again until you turn left. Hope you get yours figured out.

The wheel's getting RMA'ed. You can't do anything about it, unless disassembling the housing completely and start poking at the core of the problem. I only hope that this is a rare manufacturing or assembly related defect and not something coming from bad design decisions at the drawing board. I don't remember much about my first wheel, which got RMA'ed day one due to the disconnect issues, hopefully the 3rd wheel will be mechanically sound.

 

[hawkeyez]

The wheel's getting RMA'ed. You can't do anything about it, unless disassembling the housing completely and start poking at the core of the problem. I only hope that this is a rare manufacturing or assembly related defect and not something coming from bad design decisions at the drawing board. I don't remember much about my first wheel, which got RMA'ed day one due to the disconnect issues, hopefully the 3rd wheel will be mechanically sound.

Yeah I had a rattling G923, finally pulled it apart to figure out what was going on, found myself a fix for it by rolling greased o rings over the helical gears. It quietened it up but not entirely. At first I thought it was just a bad design, but it seems some people just don’t run into that rattling issue so I do believe it was maybe a build defect that I masked over with the o rings. You’d think I wouldn’t go with a Logitech Wheel after that but honestly the customer support really is quite good and we’ve had many Logitech wheels throughout the years and they all still work! But only on PC now. Which I don’t have. Family has given me their wheels over the years, all work. (Some I had to get back into working order)

I’ve got two old Momo’s, a G25 and a G27, a G29, a G923 and now my G Pro. Believe it or not, we ran the Momo’s on GT5 and GT6 and they were quite a good wheel! Gave the G29 to a friend once I fixed it, at least that one still works on PS5.