Logitech RS50 | Settings and tips

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@A_Higher_Place let me explain that with an example. Project Cars 3 has Trueforce support in it and it worked fine on PS4. When PS5 came out though if you ran it on that platform, even though it’s the same game, it would constantly cut out. However, if you connected the wheel through a hub then it was fine.

Worth a try if you can…
 
This maybe a beginner/silly question.

Last week at BMB and the Citroen C4 the wheel was smooth like butter.

I’ve just jumped on interlagos in the 911 and it’s really fighting back against me.

Is this as simple as the fact the tyres are different/car is fast/track isn’t as smooth?

Do you guys change settings based on combo?
 
Stringerbell
Is this as simple as the fact the tyres are different/car is fast/track isn’t as smooth?
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I think so. Some tracks offer very different track surfaces too, some parts feel smooth, other rough (like Daytone Road Course). And from cars to cars it varies too.
Stringerbell
Do you guys change settings based on combo?
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Never. But I am a plug'n'play minded player. Your mileage may vary.
 
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Has anyone used the RS50 with Assetto Corsa Competizione on PS4? The pedals and the buttons on the wheel do work fine, but the steering is all over the place. Instead of turning gradually it jumps from 100% left to 100% right as soon as the wheel is turned beyond the center position. Switching to Pro Compatibility or playing around with the angle setting didn't help.

Any advice on what's wrong here?
 
The PS4 version of ACC can't work with the RS50, I'm afraid. They use a white list system for wheels in that title and if the wheel you're using isn't on that list then the steering does exactly that. As the PS4 version hasn't been updated for many years now, there's no way it will get support for newer wheels.

The PS5 version of ACC does have support for the Pro Wheel, so the compatibility mode on the RS50 works in that version. It may be time to consider upgrading to the PS5...
 
LOGI_Rich
The PS4 version of ACC can't work with the RS50, I'm afraid. They use a white list system for wheels in that title and if the wheel you're using isn't on that list then the steering does exactly that. As the PS4 version hasn't been updated for many years now, there's no way it will get support for newer wheels.

The PS5 version of ACC does have support for the Pro Wheel, so the compatibility mode on the RS50 works in that version. It may be time to consider upgrading to the PS5...
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I see. Then probably the same is true for the even older AC. Since the PS4 still has a large user base, i guess it would be useful to many to include that information in the compatibility and settings list.

Considering that the RS50 is marketed with PS4 compatibility that list might be somewhat misleading ;)
 
The original AC is fine and is in the settings list. For ACC on PlayStation we specifically call out PS5 there and most people seemed to understand that this means that the PS4 version isn't compatible, due to it's lack of mention. But we'll be updating it to state that the PS4 version isn't compatible.
 
LOGI_Rich
Whatever the in-game torque is set to becomes the cap/max that the game will output. The Strength on the wheel then acts as a gain adjustment within the level set by that in-game cap.

e.g.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 2Nm output.

Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get 8Nm output.
Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
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Hi Rich, so a question then.

if you wanted more detail on losing grip, which is normally a lightness on the wheel... which is better from the above.

Is it better for the game to provide that experience or the wheel? which is more refined and why?

My initial thought was that if the game is on 10, and the wheel on 4nm, then the detail saturation for the wheel will be greater. i.e 4nm has 10 to pick from. Where as if you only use 5 on the game, and 8nm on the wheel the detail bandwidth is more narrow?


sorry, trying to word it in a way that make sense :P
 
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For (hopefully) fairly obvious reasons, I've been spending time this week checking in on handbrake and shifter support in many titles, as well as looking to expand on some of the recommended game settings.

We'd only really previously talked about Forza Horizon 4 and 5 when it came to the Pro and especially RS50, so I wanted to check out the older titles again. It's great that when you do this, you find that everything works and in one case in a way that you might not have expected.

Forza Horizon 1, an Xbox 360 title(!!!!) works superbly with RS50/Pro in their native compatibility modes, with manual shifter and analogue handbrake support on Xbox Series. That's a tribute to the work of MS's backwards compatibility teams doing some crazy work to perform the translation work between Xbox 360's wheel support with Xbox One/Series' wheel support.

FFB Filter 10, Dampener 20 and Angle 200. Sooooooo much fun to go and cruise around Colorado again - it's been years!!!

Forza Horizon-2026_01_30-16_39_22.webp


P.S. FH2/3 are great with the shifter as well, but they can only accept the digital handbrake mode. It's still amazing fun to revisit France, Italy/Australia respectively though
😁


P.P.S. Sadly, everything from 4 backwards isn't available digitally any more, but you can find physical copies online, so do it! I didn't need to, but then that's the advantage of having an Xbox account that goes back to the original Xbox
🥳
 
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RogerSmith82
After latest Update, in PS5 Mode, rotary buttons still LAGGING while scrolling in Mapping Menu in GT7
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Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
 
Lomic
Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
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Exactly.
But tbh, the only wheel with ergonomic buttons for Mapping in GT7 are the Fanatec with specific GT Wheel or the T-GT. Tough the RS Hub in PS4 Mode is not too bad. But in PS5 Mode still too bad.
Hope Logitech can fix the scrolling issue
 
Lomic
Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
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For now, since as you mention the MFD knobs are seemingly too loose to change values while racing (FM, brake bal etc), I find remapping MFD inc/dec to the RS50 stick, a better option.
 
Hate to say, but my RS50 doesn't feel direct/tight... Feels like there's tiny bit of lateral play inside the steering column or somethin, making road details mostly just "mushy soft rumbling or knocking".

Some reviewers said TF is almost like controller's haptic vibration, but when i set it to 100 and start revving while stationary - All i can feel is just very weak soft "rhythmic tapping(?)" and If i hold the rim it goes away.

Should TF feel like controller vibration or is it just shaking the base?

Doesn't feel like the motor is ever still/tight; even when centered i can hold the Rim perfectly still, but the motor is "stepping" left-right ever so slightly
(i don't mean normal GT7 oscillation & TF OFF or 30-60).

Turning is like driving on small rocks (not subtle sandy/grainy feel, but worse) and Nordscleife is just constant "disconnected knocking" nonstop...
Live Torque showed low forces 0,5-1nm at Kesselchen straight, yet i was fighting the knocking, it's exhausting.

---------------------------

Found Rich's old Reddit comment for G Pro:
  1. The biggest thing you immediately need to adjust is the vibration setting in the game. Go to the settings from the World Map menu and look in the Controllers tab. Select the Vibration function and turn that down to between 20 and 35. That will set it to a level where you're getting the correct amount of subtle information.

Need to test this as my in game vibration is 100...
 
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My wheel Rim isn't even even perfectly centered when driving straight, always maybe ~5 degrees off... And the feeling is so off, literally floating on track surface with ton of "canned effects" i can only hear inside the Base!
I try to get full refund using 14 return policy, unfortunately i received my pedals 1,5month earlier because my Base got delayed couple of times. Purchased as bundle and used only a few times.
 
Definitely don't reference an old comment like that regarding the Pro Wheel - this was before they reduced the Trueforce output in GT7, so it doesn't apply any more :-)

Sorry to hear you're having trouble. There's a chance it could be an issue with the unit, but the first and obvious thing to ask is if you have connected it to a PC running G HUB and checked for firmware updates? Also, it's crucial that you test in more than one game.
 
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@LOGI_Rich
Latest firmware and have tried both GT7 and ACC, and ACC was the last straw with "supposedly" more road detail. I just don't feel it, lots of humming, buzzing and screetching inside the base but no positive direct FFB...
 
LOGI_Rich
So, did you try turning TF Audio all the way down? Do you have video of this?
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Yes, and i'm afraid that it's impossible to show the lack of feel... I could record the noise it generates, but i don't think it's useful. You'd see lots of wheel shaking because it's definitely strong, so it might seem like perfectly fine...

Quite a few are complaining QR system on the internet?
With higher forces i think there's sometimes small "thumb" when changing directions and as i said it's not perfectly aligned on straights.

Edit: It doesn't generate noise without TF*
 
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The alignment is easily corrected by setting the centre calibration in G HUB on a PC, but if you do that and it slips away from being centered then check the end of this comment. If you're getting shaking around centre in GT7 and it's strong, then that initially sounds like there's nothing wrong (GT7 has a very strong centering setup for its force feedback, as you seem to be aware).

However, the "thumb" (I assume you mean thump/bump?) does sound like there could be an issue in the unit, because you should not be feeling anything like that. Does it always occur at the same point in the wheel rotation? Are you getting the slip in centre that I mentioned at the top? If so, you could try tightening the bolt that secures the QR adapter onto the shaft of the base. You just need to:
  1. Power off the base
  2. Remove the wheel
  3. Remove the four bolts on the front of the base
  4. Gently lift away the front panel (making sure you don't pull on the ribbon cable for the OLED display) and rest it against the side of the base.
You will have access to the bolt for the QR adapter. Don't over-tighten it, but give it an extra quarter turn. Reassemble, reset the calibration in G HUB and then give it another go.
 
LOGI_Rich
Does it always occur at the same point in the wheel rotation? Are you getting the slip in centre that I mentioned at the top? If so, you could try tightening the bolt that secures the QR adapter onto the shaft of the base. You just need to:
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Thump i heard and felt under heavier load when crossing the center.
At Yas Marina on GT7 when hitting outside kerbs, giving very strong rumble (and good FFB) i remember hearing "plasticy rattle", not sure if that means anything... Could be normal for RS Hub.

In my last tests after taking left turn (medium forces) my Rim was slightly aligned to left.
Slipping: i think this what i feel all the time, at any steering angle... Hitting kerbs or bumps is never rock solid.

But if i do regular "slalom" i don't feel anything when crossing the center, it's not that bad.

Thx for replies, i need to think about opening the Base.
 
Yes, the buttons can rattle if Trueforce is turned up and specific frequencies are emitted by the games.

I think you should definitely try tightening the QR adapter by the sounds of it - nothing to lose!
 
LOGI_Rich
I think you should definitely try tightening the QR adapter by the sounds of it - nothing to lose!
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Looks like this without tightening, should i loosen it and try to set it straight first?
Does that "gap" look normal?

Haven't tightened extra 90 degree yet...*
 

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