Logitech RS50 | Settings and tips

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More detail please:

  • Are you losing all detail, such as tire scrub and rumble strips?
  • How long have you been racing before this happens?
  • Online races only?
  • If you immediately quit the race and go and try the same combo in single player (assuming it was in an online race) is the same thing happening there?
 
LOGI_Rich
More detail please:

  • Are you losing all detail, such as tire scrub and rumble strips?
  • How long have you been racing before this happens?
  • Online races only?
  • If you immediately quit the race and go and try the same combo in single player (assuming it was in an online race) is the same thing happening there?
Click to expand...
  • Only pavement. FFB is kinda still there;
  • last time it happend after about only 10/15 minutes;
  • In lobby;
  • If I quit and go back it still happening.
 
RogerSmith82
  • Only pavement. FFB is kinda still there;
Click to expand...
More description needed please :-) FFB could mean a few things, so let's break it down:
  • Forces that affect the cornering/weight shift of the car - are they still happening or do you just have a very simple centre spring in place that doesn't actually respond to the in-game events? Alternatively, if you stop the car on the track and turn it 180 degrees does it stay there or spring back to the centre?
  • Tire scrub and rumble strips - are they still happening? As you may be aware, these really only happen in GT7 through the TF Audio side of things, so I need to know if they're gone as well.
  • last time it happend after about only 10/15 minutes;
Click to expand...
Was that 10/15 minutes from when you first turned the console on and started playing, or was it part of a much longer playing session? Also, do you fully shut the console down when not playing or do you use the rest mode?
  • If I quit and go back it still happening.
Click to expand...
Yep, understood, but I was asking if you tried the same car/track combo in single player (i.e. not online - just go to the world map and choose a time trial for the circuit), whereas the way you wrote this suggests that you leave the lobby and go back to an online lobby. Is it still the same if you try single player?
 
LOGI_Rich
More description needed please :-) FFB could mean a few things, so let's break it down:
  • Forces that affect the cornering/weight shift of the car - are they still happening or do you just have a very simple centre spring in place that doesn't actually respond to the in-game events? Alternatively, if you stop the car on the track and turn it 180 degrees does it stay there or spring back to the centre?
  • Tire scrub and rumble strips - are they still happening? As you may be aware, these really only happen in GT7 through the TF Audio side of things, so I need to know if they're gone as well.

Was that 10/15 minutes from when you first turned the console on and started playing, or was it part of a much longer playing session? Also, do you fully shut the console down when not playing or do you use the rest mode?

Yep, understood, but I was asking if you tried the same car/track combo in single player (i.e. not online - just go to the world map and choose a time trial for the circuit), whereas the way you wrote this suggests that you leave the lobby and go back to an online lobby. Is it still the same if you try single player?
Click to expand...

LOGI_Rich
More description needed please :-) FFB could mean a few things, so let's break it down:
  • Forces that affect the cornering/weight shift of the car - are they still happening or do you just have a very simple centre spring in place that doesn't actually respond to the in-game events? Alternatively, if you stop the car on the track and turn it 180 degrees does it stay there or spring back to the centre?
  • Tire scrub and rumble strips - are they still happening? As you may be aware, these really only happen in GT7 through the TF Audio side of things, so I need to know if they're gone as well.

Was that 10/15 minutes from when you first turned the console on and started playing, or was it part of a much longer playing session? Also, do you fully shut the console down when not playing or do you use the rest mode?

Yep, understood, but I was asking if you tried the same car/track combo in single player (i.e. not online - just go to the world map and choose a time trial for the circuit), whereas the way you wrote this suggests that you leave the lobby and go back to an online lobby. Is it still the same if you try single player?
Click to expand...
Yesterday I lowered the STRENGTH to 7 instead of 8(Maximum) and increased In-Game and had no issues playing same combo mentioned for about 1h straight.
Also noticed that wheel base got more hot lately. I always check when I shutdown after I play
 
The base is able to get hot but its temperature is monitored and if it does approach the legal limit then it will start to throttle back the torque, in order to maintain a good temperature. Either way, getting hot doesn't cause the symptoms you describe - you would still get everything you normally would, just not quite as strong.

Remember that as the ambient temperature increases as we head into Summer, a passive cooling system like the RS50's will get hotter quicker, so the fact that you're noticing it now is very normal.


But, if the original issue you described happens again, then please read my questions and respond with the detail I requested.
 
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Hi on the Logitech rs50 recommended settings page I think the entry for dirt rally 2.0 playstation has the wrong png image attached, it is for dirt rally 1.
 
LOGI_Rich
The base is able to get hot but its temperature is monitored and if it does approach the legal limit then it will start to throttle back the torque, in order to maintain a good temperature. Either way, getting hot doesn't cause the symptoms you describe - you would still get everything you normally would, just not quite as strong.

Remember that as the ambient temperature increases as we head into Summer, a passive cooling system like the RS50's will get hotter quicker, so the fact that you're noticing it now is very normal.


But, if the original issue you described happens again, then please read my questions and respond with the detail I requested.
Click to expand...
Yesterday I was able to do some testing. And it looks like a firmware/Compatibility issue.

So, I was doing the Time Trial on GT7 for about 1h and suddenly I would not feel the curbs nor the pavement again. When cornering i still felt the FFB. Quit the actual lap and went back, issue remained.

Without turning off wheel nor PS5, went to lobby and created the previous combo in Yan Marina with the Gr.2 car and everything was ok.
Went back to the Time Trial and it was ok too.

Should have tested just quitting the Time Trial Menu and go back to TT.
 
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That's not a firmware issue; it's a game issue. All you're changing is the game state, not the wheel state, so it's the game.

Let me know if going back to the menu and then back in again fixes it if it happens again please. One other thing:
When cornering i still felt the FFB
Click to expand...
Can we be very clear about this, because some people report a basic centring spring as FFB when it's not. The easy test for this is to stop the car on track, turn the wheel 180 degrees to one side and let go. If it springs all the way back to centre, then you don't have FFB, but just a basic centre spring; if it stays roughly where you turned it to, then you have FFB.
 
LOGI_Rich
That's not a firmware issue; it's a game issue. All you're changing is the game state, not the wheel state, so it's the game.

Let me know if going back to the menu and then back in again fixes it if it happens again please. One other thing:

Can we be very clear about this, because some people report a basic centring spring as FFB when it's not. The easy test for this is to stop the car on track, turn the wheel 180 degrees to one side and let go. If it springs all the way back to centre, then you don't have FFB, but just a basic centre spring; if it stays roughly where you turned it to, then you have FFB.
Click to expand...
I'll do the test later tonight and give you feedback on this matter.
When I mentioned firmware issue I actually meant "compatibility" issue, sorry
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich I recently got the RS50 and I am finding my sweet spot. I need to build up to 8nm as it's a bit too much. I have two questions:
1. In the official settings it has wheel at 8nm and then adjusting in-game. If I want the wheel weaker, should I do that and tweak in-game only? Or could I lower both? I am wondering why you'd ever have the wheel at less than max (even factory) if you can adjust in-game.
2. Automobilista 2 is listed as Pro compatibility mode. But I started it unknowingly in RS50 mode and it detected and ran fine. Did they update the game? Or I am losing some subtlety if I don't run in Pro compatibility? I am jumping between games a lot and rebooting for compatibility mode is a real pain.

thank you in advance!!
 
I already refunded my unit couple months ago so i do not know why do i even bother, but this Reddit post shows the issue i had with this QR/Shaft mechanism they share with Fanatec...



My unit didn't make that bad noise (yet), but i couldn't ignore the feeling of lateral play, which obviously dampened some of the finer FFB details.

It's funny how many posts there are about Logi QR or (Fanatec's QR1) clicking/clacking or looseness; either longitudinal or lateral, but when they try to RMA they answer something like: "We could replicate this so it's normal" or whatever.
My base didn't have any longitudinal movement at all, so in that aspect it was rock solid...
But the lateral play is something i've had with 2 CSL Elites and DD Pro Fanatec bases since 2019. And "electric tape solution" on the column didn't fix ****.

Apologies for my english, and I quess my point is that when Logitech releases "upgraded QR system" sooner or later, i laugh my ass off.
 
Except that’s not the QR, but a fault in the actual base. There are no issues with our QR, whereas the QR1 did have tolerance issues.
 
I'm familiar with the case, because we really don't get that many faulty units (so I recognise the video) and I can assure you that the issue was within the base itself - you can even see this from the OP's comments in their post.
 
LOGI_Rich
I'm familiar with the case, because we really don't get that many faulty units (so I recognise the video) and I can assure you that the issue was within the base itself - you can even see this from the OP's comments in their post.
Click to expand...
Ignore the desing flaw... i/we are the loud minority, case closed.
At least Fanatec had a locking screw, which fixed the issue in some cases.
And no, i don't see such comment?

P.s Can't help but laugh at your corporation approved response 24h later. Nothing personal of course.



"I contacted Logitech, sent them this video, and now have an official response from them.

They responded: «We were able to reproduce this movement on our own units, and it is expected behavior for this product. Please rest assured that it does not affect the performance or functionality of your device»

I then specifically asked about the clanking noise in the video and if this was also normal.

They responded again: «The sound you’re experiencing is expected and completely normal for this product, so there’s no need to worry. Your device is functioning as designed»

I understand that this is not happening on all units, but Boosted Media actually mentioned this in his review. So it’s certainly more than just me.

Now we have an official response from Logitech: normal and expected behavior. Nothing to worry about if you unit does the same."
 
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Hi everyone,


I’m currently running the Logitech RS50 setup with RS Pedals on PS5, specifically for Gran Turismo 7.


The question is in regard to the two different compatibility modes that GT7 recognizes differently:


1. "RS" Mode: The game identifies the unit as a Logitech G29.


2. "Pro Wheel" Mode: The game identifies it as the Logitech G Pro Wheel.


On the surface, both seem to work fine for basic driving, but I’m curious about the technical nuances. Theoretically, the Pro Wheel protocol should offer better 11-bit resolution, higher Force Feedback (FFB) dynamic range, and better TrueForce integration compared to the legacy G29/G923 “driver”.


Has anyone here done extensive testing between these two modes?

Compatibility to a newer wheel does seem better (or no, since Logitech recommended settings doesn’t say so 🤔).
 
Nakashoji
Hi everyone,


I’m currently running the Logitech RS50 setup with RS Pedals on PS5, specifically for Gran Turismo 7.


The question is in regard to the two different compatibility modes that GT7 recognizes differently:


1. "RS" Mode: The game identifies the unit as a Logitech G29.


2. "Pro Wheel" Mode: The game identifies it as the Logitech G Pro Wheel.


On the surface, both seem to work fine for basic driving, but I’m curious about the technical nuances. Theoretically, the Pro Wheel protocol should offer better 11-bit resolution, higher Force Feedback (FFB) dynamic range, and better TrueForce integration compared to the legacy G29/G923 “driver”.


Has anyone here done extensive testing between these two modes?

Compatibility to a newer wheel does seem better (or no, since Logitech recommended settings doesn’t say so 🤔).
Click to expand...
As far as I know (and remember on top of my head), I have set it to RS mode from the beginning and GT7 currently sees it as a G Pro wheel in the game wheels menu (not a G29), in case you wish to fine tune or assign/modify different button mappings.
 
I just wanted to thank you for these:
LOGI_Rich
The base is able to get hot but its temperature is monitored and if it does approach the legal limit then it will start to throttle back the torque, in order to maintain a good temperature. Either way, getting hot doesn't cause the symptoms you describe - you would still get everything you normally would, just not quite as strong.
Click to expand...
and . . .
LOGI_Rich
That's not a firmware issue; it's a game issue. All you're changing is the game state, not the wheel state, so it's the game.
Click to expand...
Last night I was driving in an online race when the TrueForce went. FFB was still very active but the road felt like glass. There was none of the detail I felt (and rely upon) before.

I thought about reading this the day before and, once the race was finished, I decided to shut down the game. Didn't restart the PS5, just Gran Turismo.

After re-launching the game, all was well and I continued driving without issue the entire night.

Again, thank you @LOGI_Rich for all your help - even if I didn't ask for it specifically!

- Revengel
 

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