Mon 20:00-21:30 UK time - PC2 - Hosted by @IfAndOr - Please refer to new threadPS4
- Thread starter Sick Cylinder
- 2,965 comments
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- 5,287
- Sick_Cylinder
Hi Shauny! I'll be going to the Test Day on Friday - I'm not currently planning to go the races.
Will you be going to the HSCC 85th anniversary meeting at Brands on Saturday 24th August - it will be unmissable! That is the one meeting that I've been looking forward to since last year!
- 129
- Berlin
Hi guys,
I thought I'd share some knowledge I picked since I started playing PC2. At the beginning, I was baffled by the sheer amount of choices offered by the setup screen, and the following information has helped me immensely. I hope it might do the same for you!
First of all, there's Yorkie065. He has compiled a very comprehensive video guide covering everything (I repeat: EVERYTHING) PC2 has to offer in terms of settings, as well as some interesting takes on driving techniques. You can find it here: www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwngKHZDy-rqLXf6oeOQ6O1rOrGfc2LNT
The single most valuable video is probably number 10 on Baseline Setups. He makes a few changes that can be applied to every single cars in the game (except perhaps the single seaters), and they make the cars so much more driveable compared to the standard setups. And it doesn't even take more than 2min to make those changes!
@slthree This might be valuable to you, specifically. I saw on the forum that you had trouble getting some cars to handle correctly, especially on hard tires. Maybe with those baseline changes, you have a good starting point to make your own setups instead of having to rely on other people's.
For everyone who wants to delve deeper into the setup screen, I recommend episodes 12, 14, and 16-18. Basically, Yorkie065 devotes an entire video to each of the different tuning screens.
Having watched the damper and suspension video, he made me aware of this file, provided by Jussi Karjalainen, handling QA lead for PC2: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?54023-Project-CARS-2-Suspension-Calculator-v0-96 (He had to be Finnish, hadn't he)
In my opinion, this is the single most amazing piece of information, and it should be printed, laminated and shipped with every single game disc!!! (I know it's hard to print a modifiable excel sheet, but still
) It looks a little bit confusing at first, but the tutorial from Jussi is pretty intuitive. If you have trouble figuring out how it works, feel free to ask me.
@rj5992 or @beachboy6658 I remember one of you had trouble with the Aston. I experienced the same driving the GT4 Aston in my career. Only after putting the data in the suspension sheet did I realize the suspension was way, way off. I know this won't help with the league races, but if you ever want to give the Aston a spin outside our league, you should check it out.
Finally, there's some need little piece of information about the correct tire pressures, if you ever wondered what their optimal range is. This time provided by Casey Ringley, vehicle technical lead: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?57541-Project-CARS-2-Tyre-Temps
Well, this post has gotten longer than expected
I hope it's worth the read. Happy tuning and faster racing to everyone! 
I thought I'd share some knowledge I picked since I started playing PC2. At the beginning, I was baffled by the sheer amount of choices offered by the setup screen, and the following information has helped me immensely. I hope it might do the same for you!
First of all, there's Yorkie065. He has compiled a very comprehensive video guide covering everything (I repeat: EVERYTHING) PC2 has to offer in terms of settings, as well as some interesting takes on driving techniques. You can find it here: www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwngKHZDy-rqLXf6oeOQ6O1rOrGfc2LNT
The single most valuable video is probably number 10 on Baseline Setups. He makes a few changes that can be applied to every single cars in the game (except perhaps the single seaters), and they make the cars so much more driveable compared to the standard setups. And it doesn't even take more than 2min to make those changes!
@slthree This might be valuable to you, specifically. I saw on the forum that you had trouble getting some cars to handle correctly, especially on hard tires. Maybe with those baseline changes, you have a good starting point to make your own setups instead of having to rely on other people's.
For everyone who wants to delve deeper into the setup screen, I recommend episodes 12, 14, and 16-18. Basically, Yorkie065 devotes an entire video to each of the different tuning screens.
Having watched the damper and suspension video, he made me aware of this file, provided by Jussi Karjalainen, handling QA lead for PC2: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?54023-Project-CARS-2-Suspension-Calculator-v0-96 (He had to be Finnish, hadn't he
)In my opinion, this is the single most amazing piece of information, and it should be printed, laminated and shipped with every single game disc!!! (I know it's hard to print a modifiable excel sheet, but still
) It looks a little bit confusing at first, but the tutorial from Jussi is pretty intuitive. If you have trouble figuring out how it works, feel free to ask me.@rj5992 or @beachboy6658 I remember one of you had trouble with the Aston. I experienced the same driving the GT4 Aston in my career. Only after putting the data in the suspension sheet did I realize the suspension was way, way off. I know this won't help with the league races, but if you ever want to give the Aston a spin outside our league, you should check it out.
Finally, there's some need little piece of information about the correct tire pressures, if you ever wondered what their optimal range is. This time provided by Casey Ringley, vehicle technical lead: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?57541-Project-CARS-2-Tyre-Temps
Well, this post has gotten longer than expected
I hope it's worth the read. Happy tuning and faster racing to everyone!
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- 1,347
- Fact Central Florida
- slthree
@WiSchmo You have the bug, Willi! I think you're in love with this game, as are we
I love Yorkies videos. I've watched them over and over again. I like his laid back style. Th Driving Technique video is one of my favorites.
Problem is that, if we fall in love with tuning it will be hard to race in Sick's series because it's based on stock set ups only.
I love Yorkies videos. I've watched them over and over again. I like his laid back style. Th Driving Technique video is one of my favorites.
Problem is that, if we fall in love with tuning it will be hard to race in Sick's series because it's based on stock set ups only.
- 129
- Berlin
Haha, guilty as charged
But you're right, for the league this is of limited to no relevance. Still, I just wanted to put it out there, as it really opened up the game for me and made me enjoy it much more.
Also, I'm not surprised that a lot of this is probably not new to you guys. Most of you have most likely sim-raced a lot longer than I do. But maybe there's some tiny bit of information that somebody didn't know already, which would mean for me that it was well worth it to write up the post
killerjimbag
(Banned)
- 4,018
- The Great White North
- abetterplaya
- 3,277
- Whitehaven Cumbria Englan
- johnwells69
Thanks Slthree.
Enjoy this clip
Enjoy this clip
- 1,347
- Fact Central Florida
- slthree
I can attest that playa's setups are PHENOMENAL! It is amazing the difference they make.
killerjimbag
(Banned)
- 4,018
- The Great White North
- abetterplaya
I do a little bit of tuningOne of these evenings when I'm free I might have to drop in dragging my default setups with me.
I got your invite the other night but I was otherwise engaged (read that as "I'm not sure what I was doing").
.Usually the same guys every night in the room. Good clean racing.We recommend PG 18 settings
. Sometimes 🤬 is bantered about. Guys will help anybody out with settings,setups,etc. 
- 125
- Home Paddock
- tympache
Need advice guys. I can't seem to figure out how to do pit stops properly so that I don't end up at the end of the pack.
Let me explain.
I practice using off-line race mode against medium difficulty AI. The race is 7 laps with one mandatory pit stop.
No matter when I go to a pit stop, early or late, or in the middle of the race, I always end up at the end of the pack. Even if I'm entering a pit stop in P6/L2 and several AI cars are in front of me entering a pit stop as well I somehow end up behind almost every other competitor when I exit.
This happens even if it's a quick refuel and no need to repair anything (and I remember to depress a clutch pedal to avoid stalling the car when the refueling or service is over so I start moving as soon as the service is done).
So, what's the optimal strategy?
Let me explain.
I practice using off-line race mode against medium difficulty AI. The race is 7 laps with one mandatory pit stop.
No matter when I go to a pit stop, early or late, or in the middle of the race, I always end up at the end of the pack. Even if I'm entering a pit stop in P6/L2 and several AI cars are in front of me entering a pit stop as well I somehow end up behind almost every other competitor when I exit.
This happens even if it's a quick refuel and no need to repair anything (and I remember to depress a clutch pedal to avoid stalling the car when the refueling or service is over so I start moving as soon as the service is done).
So, what's the optimal strategy?
- 1,347
- Fact Central Florida
- slthree
Are you completing the race in full or pulling out when you realize you're in the back of the pack?
The reason I ask, is because they may not be pitting on the same lap that you are.
I have had several of those races, like you described, but I know that later in the race the AI will have to pit and I'll gain my positions back.
So, my strategy is to pit earlier than they do, and see how many positions I can gain back before they pit, knowing that when they all pit, Ill move up even more
The reason I ask, is because they may not be pitting on the same lap that you are.
I have had several of those races, like you described, but I know that later in the race the AI will have to pit and I'll gain my positions back.
So, my strategy is to pit earlier than they do, and see how many positions I can gain back before they pit, knowing that when they all pit, Ill move up even more
Yes, I should be there for a few hours of the testing on Friday. Perhaps I’ll see you about. I’m there Saturday and Sunday too.
I haven’t decided about the HSCC event yet. In principle, yes I should be there, but it’ll be off the back of 3 straight weekends (Saturday and Sunday all day, and some Fridays thrown in.). I love my racing but I might need a little rest!
- 125
- Home Paddock
- tympache
Even if I stick to the end. I realize this is probably more because I'm not fast enough but somehow I still have this feeling that I'm doing pit stops wrong.
So, if a race is 7 laps should I pit in as early as possible? Like, on lap 2-3?
I'm also curious what the strategy should be at Sick's league races. The requirement is to pit in anywhere between 10-20 minutes of the race. Same strategy? Do it as early as possible?
- 1,347
- Fact Central Florida
- slthree
- 129
- Berlin
Hey @ILIV
I figure it depends on the racing situation and the state of your tires.
The GT3s usually race on the hard compound, which should easily do the 30min race distance, so tire wear should not be a factor. But if you feel like they're overheating too much or have a flat spot after a big spin/lock-up, off you go to the pits. For the softs, practice should give you a good feel for how long they last. If you feel that they're fading, you should come in. Pit too soon, though, and you will run out of grip at the end of the race.
Concerning strategy, its usually a good idea to pit sooner when you're stuck behind somebody that's slower than you, but can't pass on track. As soon as you have clean air after your stop, you should be faster and come out ahead after his stop. This works the other way 'round, as well. See somebody struggling to pass you dive into the pits? I'd suggest you do the same asap, otherwise you will be behind.
Hope that helps! But as you can see, it's half logic, half witchcraft
I figure it depends on the racing situation and the state of your tires.
The GT3s usually race on the hard compound, which should easily do the 30min race distance, so tire wear should not be a factor. But if you feel like they're overheating too much or have a flat spot after a big spin/lock-up, off you go to the pits. For the softs, practice should give you a good feel for how long they last. If you feel that they're fading, you should come in. Pit too soon, though, and you will run out of grip at the end of the race.
Concerning strategy, its usually a good idea to pit sooner when you're stuck behind somebody that's slower than you, but can't pass on track. As soon as you have clean air after your stop, you should be faster and come out ahead after his stop. This works the other way 'round, as well. See somebody struggling to pass you dive into the pits? I'd suggest you do the same asap, otherwise you will be behind.
Hope that helps! But as you can see, it's half logic, half witchcraft
- 6,376
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
What I tend to do is that if I get damage that I can still drive with I'll try and get to the 20 minutes point and then pit to get it repaired early. If I have no damage I'll continue until nearer the 10 minutes mark - just in case I do get damage in between. But other variations can occur as per Willi's post above.
Not sure about the AI pitting strategy. I've not really tried that out much. I'll have to give it a go.
- 125
- Home Paddock
- tympache
Hey @ILIV
I figure it depends on the racing situation and the state of your tires.
The GT3s usually race on the hard compound, which should easily do the 30min race distance, so tire wear should not be a factor. But if you feel like they're overheating too much or have a flat spot after a big spin/lock-up, off you go to the pits. For the softs, practice should give you a good feel for how long they last. If you feel that they're fading, you should come in. Pit too soon, though, and you will run out of grip at the end of the race.
Concerning strategy, its usually a good idea to pit sooner when you're stuck behind somebody that's slower than you, but can't pass on track. As soon as you have clean air after your stop, you should be faster and come out ahead after his stop. This works the other way 'round, as well. See somebody struggling to pass you dive into the pits? I'd suggest you do the same asap, otherwise you will be behind.
Hope that helps! But as you can see, it's half logic, half witchcraft
Wow! You've just blown my mind. So many factors I haven't even considered.
- 5,287
- Sick_Cylinder
@ILIV If it is one of our races I pit late if I have a good feeling with the car - then I often find that I'm unable to lap as fast after the stop.
If the race is a 24 hour simulation (30 minute race) I pit as early as possible so it is less dark and easier to find the pit lane.
In theory - if you are being held up by a slower driver, then pit before him so you can get the undercut. This sometimes (rarely) happens with me because I am slower than most other drivers, but it is very satisfying when it does happen.
If the race is a 24 hour simulation (30 minute race) I pit as early as possible so it is less dark and easier to find the pit lane.
In theory - if you are being held up by a slower driver, then pit before him so you can get the undercut. This sometimes (rarely) happens with me because I am slower than most other drivers, but it is very satisfying when it does happen.
joedakiss
Premium
- 165
- United Kingdom
- joedakiss
@ILIV I saw you mention on the Psn chat that you finally figured out your FOV settings. I've had a similar problem – i sit 49 inches away from a 49-inch tv but when I put those settings into the calculator it gives me a comically low value that make it feel like I'm wearing someone else's glasses while racing!
How did you figure it out in the end, just by trial and error adjustment? I'm still not happy with mine – it's definitely the reason I'm not coming first in every race. any advice appreciated...
How did you figure it out in the end, just by trial and error adjustment? I'm still not happy with mine – it's definitely the reason I'm not coming first in every race. any advice appreciated...
- 1,145
- Lithuania
Do you adjust seat in every car? Usually I need to move seat back a lot. When I modified my rig and got TV closer (37" Tv in about 80 cm distance) FOV calculator show 48 FOV setting (earlier I used FOV 70 (I think) and distance 130 cm). It was very strange and unusual at the begining but I am starting to get used to it. What I like is elevation feels much more now, I didn't think Green Hell have so big hills earlier.
- 125
- Home Paddock
- tympache
It's not possible to have a mathematically correct FOV with my parameters so I settled for a less ideal value but still much lower than the default 70. I experimented a bit and found a value that is a sensible compromise. I actually use the lowest value for the Cabin view and a little higher value for the Helmet view (my preferred view anyway). Basically, my approach was to keep it as low as possible without sacrificing corner views too much (so that I don't feel like I'm seeing through a hole in a box) and that I can see a bit of interior with my peripheral vision. If you think about it, when you're driving a real car and you look forward as you should do, you're focused on what's ahead of you and everything else becomes a blur. You can see only a little bit of interior and it's blurred. So, I set up my FOV to replicate that view. At first it was uncomfortable, but in Helmet view with the "head leaning towards the apex" option on I found it to actually work pretty well when I'm racing. The track always looks wide enough now. It's easier to drive when another car's rear is inches apart from your front, it feels intuitive and almost natural as far as I can judge. My only complaint is that the way I have it configured the sense of speed is kinda skewed. 150 kph feels more like 60 kph in real life. I have mostly tested this at Brno and the Dubai Autodrome GP, both wide open tracks so maybe it's just that. Maybe that's how it actually is perceived in real life too.
- 129
- Berlin
I know the opposite is commonly used in arcade racers. I called it the "Need for Speed" effect. Have a super large FOV with the entire arms and mirrors and all visible, and suddenly everything feels super fast. Maybe you have set your FOV too low, if it feels slower than in real life?
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- 6,376
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
Yes, that's a good analogy, it can be like looking through a telephoto lens. I've tried to run with them but they give me such a low value that I find too restrictive. And yet I know some of the chaps swear by them. I think it's something you might get used to over time, but I couldn't. It's a much wider setting that I use now that's based on what I should see sitting in the seat by moving my eyes NOT my head. It also changes depending on whether I'm racing against humans or AI via different cockpit and helmet settings!
PC2 is so great for a tweaker like me!
I think that it shows with the different responses much like FFB the FOV is more of a personal preference, there's no right or wrong, what feels/looks good to you works for you.
The field of view speed sensitivity feature could help with that. I could give you more detail but as a rough guide, switch it on, set the 1st setting to 100, the 2nd to 110*, the 3rd to ~160kph, the 4th to ~260kph. The view will then pull back as your speed increases to give you a greater sense of speed.
* Adjust this one to what looks best. (It's a percentage of your base figure not the actual fov)
My reasons vary from race to race.
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- 125
- Home Paddock
- tympache
Thanks buddy! I'll give it a shot this evening.
@joedakiss, and while I'm at it, I can look up and share my FOV values if you're interested.
