Motor City Tunes GT6

4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
@Siggers I am so not the guy to help with transmissions. I just do the flip trick and go back to thinking about how the car handles. Thanks @Pete05 for pitching in.

I could be a bit faster with some gearbox help.
 

Pete05

Premium
6,727
Australia
Melbourne, Australia
projectvkls3
@Siggers I am so not the guy to help with transmissions. I just do the flip trick and go back to thinking about how the car handles. Thanks @Pete05 for pitching in.

I could be a bit faster with some gearbox help.
Gearboxes can be tricky at the best of times so I'm glad I could offer some assistance.
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
NSX Type R '02
550PP, 476hp, 1100kg
Weight Distribution 46:54

12006208275_28ee33098d_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Twin Ring Motegi.

Pit Service
Oil Change
Paint: Lime Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune for Game Version 1.09
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 7.00/8.25
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 7/6
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.10/0.05
Brake balance 6/4
LSD 11/11/28
Power Level 98.4%
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.490
2nd gear 2.400
3rd gear 1.850
4th gear 1.505
5th gear 1.280
6th gear 1.125
Final gear 4.000

Tuning Notes:
The first thing I do is establish a base tune. I drive the base tune for a number of laps, only changing the transmission. I would like to have a good gearbox set up that can remain unchanged until the tune is finished. If it is a little tall at the end of the longest straight, that is ok for testing as it will be consistent all the way through tuning.

My Default Tune:
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 5.30/7.50
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 3/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.5/1.5
Toe 0/0
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Fifteen laps with this car at Motegi are enough to establish its strengths and weaknesses. This car is very good and easy to drive with just my default settings. Initial impression is that this car can easily be “over-tuned” meaning it will not need much improvement. While watching in chase view reveals a bit of outside front dive and a quickly raising rear on corner entry, causing an unstable condition. I can also turn the outside front wheel yellow/orange on corner exit of the medium speed corners. There is also a lot of body roll. And there is a touch of outside wheel spin on exit. In summary, entry oversteer, good mid-corner and understeer on exit.

Adjustments: Start with dampers and springs.
- To help entry, raise rear damper extension to 4
- To help exit, raise front damper extension to 5
- Other options to be tested later: BB balance to 6/5, raise front springs, raise front damper compression, raise LSD decel

Ten laps later and dampers helped, but did not fully solve the issue. It does not seem to be braking related, but brakes make it worse. LSD may be off. It is still loose on entry with understeer on exit but slightly improved.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial to 10 to help reduce exit oversteer
- LSD Accel to 11 to reduce slight outside wheel spin
- LSD Decel to 15 to reduce entry oversteer

Ten laps later and the car felt better but I went slower by a few tenths. It is odd at turn in. Loose under trail braking, but understeer if I push into the corner way to hard.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial back to 11 to tighten the diff up earlier
- Raise rear damper extension to 5 for slower transition on entry and hopefully more rear traction.
- Brake balance to 6/5

Ten laps later and the corners feel more connected now, entry through exit. It is still a little unstable on entry. When I really push it, I can spin the car on entry. Pushing at 90%, like I would in the real world on a track day, the car is really good. But I want more. I want this to be my next online favorite. The front also wanders a bit on the straights. The nose seems to dive and move around in chase cam view. There is now slight inside wheel spin, but it might be related to the weight transfer dive and not the LSD.

Adjustments:
- LSD decel increased to 17
- Front springs increased to 6.25
- Front damper extension increased to 6 for more exit turning ability

It’s not too bad. Similar lap time, but it is after midnight and my consistency is fading. The springs got rid of some of the nose dive, but it lost some mid-corner speed. Putting this away for the night and coming back fresh tomorrow.

Ten laps then changes.
- Raised rear springs to 7.75
- Added front toe -0.05 to help calm entry and make exit more aggressive

This improved the car a little, but something else is holding this tune back. It is time to play with camber.
- 1.0/1.5 lost front grip mid-corner to exit
- 1.0/0.5 not much different. Front camber may be the key.
- 0.5/0.5 faster, but not by much. Camber does not seem to be changing the lap time or the feel that much.
- 0.5/0.0 better on entry, but still only a few tenths between all of these camber settings.

Got bored driving at Motegi so moved to Laguna Seca for a bit on sport hard tires. The car is very loose on entry and easy to spin out at the top of the hill. The car is pretty solid everywhere else.

Adjustments (one at a time and five laps each):
- LSD decel increased to 20; improved entry
- Brake balance to 5.4 (due mostly to the change from sport softs to sport hards); improved trail braking
- Camber to 1.0/1.0 then 1.0/0.5 then to 0.0/0.0; Zero feels like running one softer tire. Many will not agree with me, but I still find faster times on running zero camber. It must be my toe settings throwing me off.
- Rear to increased from zero to +0.05; still spun at the top of the hill and still pretty loose on entry for turn one
- LSD decel increased to 25; improved entry, but still not fixed. This is the challenge programmed in by PD for this car. I now feel at risk of over-tuning this car.

I went back to Motegi for ten laps. The car is still a tiny bit loose on corner entry and with a tiny bit of understeer on exit.

Adjustments:
- Rear damper extension increased one click
- Frond damper extension increased one click
- Camber, tried 0/0 against 1.0/0.5 again. Zero still slightly quicker with a more grippy feel.

The car is slightly better. The dampers and camber seem to have reached their full usefulness. There is still a lot of body roll.

Adjustments (one at a time):
- LSD decel increased to 28 for entry stability
- Brake balance to 6/4 for entry stability
- Front ARB to 4 looking to reduce the dive to the outside front wheel
- Front toe changed to -0.10 to calm entry and increase exit turning

I liked all of the above changes except for the ARB change. It added mid-corner understeer which carried all the way through exit.

Adjustments:
- ARBs back to 3/3; both outside tires can turn red if too much speed is carried down to the apex. There is still a lot of body roll and I think this may be the cause of the red tires.
- Increased front and rear springs 7.0/8.25

This is a pretty fast car right here. Time to publish it. I plan to use this car online quite a bit, so I can update as more speed is found.
 
Last edited:
2,604
United States
MA
CAPECOD104 SGETI
Your guide has helped many here at eggplants and you up the ante with the above
"play by play" of the actual tuning process. This process shows us what to try when the tune is just not correct. How to fix a tuning problem and the proper steps will save me time and frustration. thanks for all you do.
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Your guide has helped many here at eggplants and you up the ante with the above
"play by play" of the actual tuning process. This process shows us what to try when the tune is just not correct. How to fix a tuning problem and the proper steps will save me time and frustration. thanks for all you do.

Thank you for the kind words. I really want to get away from arguing about what settings do, whether real world physics or in game physics. I have turned my focus to just allowing the work to speak for itself. When I tune a car, take some notes and if seeing my method and thought process helps others to learn, then the mission is accomplished. I fully expect that people will take this look into my method and apply their own perspective to it. If camber works for you, use it. If ARBs produce results for you, use it. My tuning notes simply show the decisions that I made in the heat of the moment while building the tune.

Thanks again. I am happy that the community likes the tuning notes.
 

Pete05

Premium
6,727
Australia
Melbourne, Australia
projectvkls3
Thank you for the kind words. I really want to get away from arguing about what settings do, whether real world physics or in game physics. I have turned my focus to just allowing the work to speak for itself. When I tune a car, take some notes and if seeing my method and thought process helps others to learn, then the mission is accomplished. I fully expect that people will take this look into my method and apply their own perspective to it. If camber works for you, use it. If ARBs produce results for you, use it. My tuning notes simply show the decisions that I made in the heat of the moment while building the tune.

Thanks again. I am happy that the community likes the tuning notes.
Excellent work Hami. It's like downloading your brain or peeking over your shoulder at the track.
I'm sure you know from your SCCA Miata days at the track, setup info is like gold, and in most cases, a very closely guarded secret.
I know from walking the pits at my local racetracks, especially in a one-make series, something like tyre pressures or shock settings are harder to get than the numbers for lotto.
Thanks for sharing :) 👍 :cheers:
 
20
China
China
tbowei905
NSX Type R '02
550PP, 476hp, 1100kg
Weight Distribution 46:54

12006208275_28ee33098d_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Twin Ring Motegi.

Pit Service
Oil Change
Paint: Lime Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune for Game Version 1.09
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 7.00/8.25
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 7/6
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.10/0.05
Brake balance 6/4
LSD 11/11/28
Power Level 98.4%
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.490
2nd gear 2.400
3rd gear 1.850
4th gear 1.505
5th gear 1.280
6th gear 1.125
Final gear 4.000

Tuning Notes:
The first thing I do is establish a base tune. I drive the base tune for a number of laps, only changing the transmission. I would like to have a good gearbox set up that can remain unchanged until the tune is finished. If it is a little tall at the end of the longest straight, that is ok for testing as it will be consistent all the way through tuning.

My Default Tune:
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 5.30/7.50
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 3/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.5/1.5
Toe 0/0
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Fifteen laps with this car at Motegi are enough to establish its strengths and weaknesses. This car is very good and easy to drive with just my default settings. Initial impression is that this car can easily be “over-tuned” meaning it will not need much improvement. While watching in chase view reveals a bit of outside front dive and a quickly raising rear on corner entry, causing an unstable condition. I can also turn the outside front wheel yellow/orange on corner exit of the medium speed corners. There is also a lot of body roll. And there is a touch of outside wheel spin on exit. In summary, entry oversteer, good mid-corner and understeer on exit.

Adjustments: Start with dampers and springs.
- To help entry, raise rear damper extension to 4
- To help exit, raise front damper extension to 5
- Other options to be tested later: BB balance to 6/5, raise front springs, raise front damper compression, raise LSD decel

Ten laps later and dampers helped, but did not fully solve the issue. It does not seem to be braking related, but brakes make it worse. LSD may be off. It is still loose on entry with understeer on exit but slightly improved.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial to 10 to help reduce exit oversteer
- LSD Accel to 11 to reduce slight outside wheel spin
- LSD Decel to 15 to reduce entry oversteer

Ten laps later and the car felt better but I went slower by a few tenths. It is odd at turn in. Loose under trail braking, but understeer if I push into the corner way to hard.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial back to 11 to tighten the diff up earlier
- Raise rear damper extension to 5 for slower transition on entry and hopefully more rear traction.
- Brake balance to 6/5

Ten laps later and the corners feel more connected now, entry through exit. It is still a little unstable on entry. When I really push it, I can spin the car on entry. Pushing at 90%, like I would in the real world on a track day, the car is really good. But I want more. I want this to be my next online favorite. The front also wanders a bit on the straights. The nose seems to dive and move around in chase cam view. There is now slight inside wheel spin, but it might be related to the weight transfer dive and not the LSD.

Adjustments:
- LSD decel increased to 17
- Front springs increased to 6.25
- Front damper extension increased to 6 for more exit turning ability

It’s not too bad. Similar lap time, but it is after midnight and my consistency is fading. The springs got rid of some of the nose dive, but it lost some mid-corner speed. Putting this away for the night and coming back fresh tomorrow.

Ten laps then changes.
- Raised rear springs to 7.75
- Added front toe -0.05 to help calm entry and make exit more aggressive

This improved the car a little, but something else is holding this tune back. It is time to play with camber.
- 1.0/1.5 lost front grip mid-corner to exit
- 1.0/0.5 not much different. Front camber may be the key.
- 0.5/0.5 faster, but not by much. Camber does not seem to be changing the lap time or the feel that much.
- 0.5/0.0 better on entry, but still only a few tenths between all of these camber settings.

Got bored driving at Motegi so moved to Laguna Seca for a bit on sport hard tires. The car is very loose on entry and easy to spin out at the top of the hill. The car is pretty solid everywhere else.

Adjustments (one at a time and five laps each):
- LSD decel increased to 20; improved entry
- Brake balance to 5.4 (due mostly to the change from sport softs to sport hards); improved trail braking
- Camber to 1.0/1.0 then 1.0/0.5 then to 0.0/0.0; Zero feels like running one softer tire. Many will not agree with me, but I still find faster times on running zero camber. It must be my toe settings throwing me off.
- Rear to increased from zero to +0.05; still spun at the top of the hill and still pretty loose on entry for turn one
- LSD decel increased to 25; improved entry, but still not fixed. This is the challenge programmed in by PD for this car. I now feel at risk of over-tuning this car.

I went back to Motegi for ten laps. The car is still a tiny bit loose on corner entry and with a tiny bit of understeer on exit.

Adjustments:
- Rear damper extension increased one click
- Frond damper extension increased one click
- Camber, tried 0/0 against 1.0/0.5 again. Zero still slightly quicker with a more grippy feel.

The car is slightly better. The dampers and camber seem to have reached their full usefulness. There is still a lot of body roll.

Adjustments (one at a time):
- LSD decel increased to 28 for entry stability
- Brake balance to 6/4 for entry stability
- Front ARB to 4 looking to reduce the dive to the outside front wheel
- Front toe changed to -0.10 to calm entry and increase exit turning

I liked all of the above changes except for the ARB change. It added mid-corner understeer which carried all the way through exit.

Adjustments:
- ARBs back to 3/3; both outside tires can turn red if too much speed is carried down to the apex. There is still a lot of body roll and I think this may be the cause of the red tires.
- Increased front and rear springs 7.0/8.25

This is a pretty fast car right here. Time to publish it. I plan to use this car online quite a bit, so I can update as more speed is found.

Thanks for sharing.I follow your way(If you do not mind), and I found I want.:) Thank,you.:cheers:
 
74
United States
United States
coolcurmudgeon
NSX Type R '02
550PP, 476hp, 1100kg
Weight Distribution 46:54

12006208275_28ee33098d_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Twin Ring Motegi.

Pit Service
Oil Change
Paint: Lime Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Intake Tuning
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune for Game Version 1.09
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 7.00/8.25
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 7/6
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.10/0.05
Brake balance 6/4
LSD 11/11/28
Power Level 98.4%
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.490
2nd gear 2.400
3rd gear 1.850
4th gear 1.505
5th gear 1.280
6th gear 1.125
Final gear 4.000

Tuning Notes:
The first thing I do is establish a base tune. I drive the base tune for a number of laps, only changing the transmission. I would like to have a good gearbox set up that can remain unchanged until the tune is finished. If it is a little tall at the end of the longest straight, that is ok for testing as it will be consistent all the way through tuning.

My Default Tune:
Ride Height 90/90
Springs 5.30/7.50
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 3/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.5/1.5
Toe 0/0
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Fifteen laps with this car at Motegi are enough to establish its strengths and weaknesses. This car is very good and easy to drive with just my default settings. Initial impression is that this car can easily be “over-tuned” meaning it will not need much improvement. While watching in chase view reveals a bit of outside front dive and a quickly raising rear on corner entry, causing an unstable condition. I can also turn the outside front wheel yellow/orange on corner exit of the medium speed corners. There is also a lot of body roll. And there is a touch of outside wheel spin on exit. In summary, entry oversteer, good mid-corner and understeer on exit.

Adjustments: Start with dampers and springs.
- To help entry, raise rear damper extension to 4
- To help exit, raise front damper extension to 5
- Other options to be tested later: BB balance to 6/5, raise front springs, raise front damper compression, raise LSD decel

Ten laps later and dampers helped, but did not fully solve the issue. It does not seem to be braking related, but brakes make it worse. LSD may be off. It is still loose on entry with understeer on exit but slightly improved.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial to 10 to help reduce exit oversteer
- LSD Accel to 11 to reduce slight outside wheel spin
- LSD Decel to 15 to reduce entry oversteer

Ten laps later and the car felt better but I went slower by a few tenths. It is odd at turn in. Loose under trail braking, but understeer if I push into the corner way to hard.

Adjustments:
- LSD Initial back to 11 to tighten the diff up earlier
- Raise rear damper extension to 5 for slower transition on entry and hopefully more rear traction.
- Brake balance to 6/5

Ten laps later and the corners feel more connected now, entry through exit. It is still a little unstable on entry. When I really push it, I can spin the car on entry. Pushing at 90%, like I would in the real world on a track day, the car is really good. But I want more. I want this to be my next online favorite. The front also wanders a bit on the straights. The nose seems to dive and move around in chase cam view. There is now slight inside wheel spin, but it might be related to the weight transfer dive and not the LSD.

Adjustments:
- LSD decel increased to 17
- Front springs increased to 6.25
- Front damper extension increased to 6 for more exit turning ability

It’s not too bad. Similar lap time, but it is after midnight and my consistency is fading. The springs got rid of some of the nose dive, but it lost some mid-corner speed. Putting this away for the night and coming back fresh tomorrow.

Ten laps then changes.
- Raised rear springs to 7.75
- Added front toe -0.05 to help calm entry and make exit more aggressive

This improved the car a little, but something else is holding this tune back. It is time to play with camber.
- 1.0/1.5 lost front grip mid-corner to exit
- 1.0/0.5 not much different. Front camber may be the key.
- 0.5/0.5 faster, but not by much. Camber does not seem to be changing the lap time or the feel that much.
- 0.5/0.0 better on entry, but still only a few tenths between all of these camber settings.

Got bored driving at Motegi so moved to Laguna Seca for a bit on sport hard tires. The car is very loose on entry and easy to spin out at the top of the hill. The car is pretty solid everywhere else.

Adjustments (one at a time and five laps each):
- LSD decel increased to 20; improved entry
- Brake balance to 5.4 (due mostly to the change from sport softs to sport hards); improved trail braking
- Camber to 1.0/1.0 then 1.0/0.5 then to 0.0/0.0; Zero feels like running one softer tire. Many will not agree with me, but I still find faster times on running zero camber. It must be my toe settings throwing me off.
- Rear to increased from zero to +0.05; still spun at the top of the hill and still pretty loose on entry for turn one
- LSD decel increased to 25; improved entry, but still not fixed. This is the challenge programmed in by PD for this car. I now feel at risk of over-tuning this car.

I went back to Motegi for ten laps. The car is still a tiny bit loose on corner entry and with a tiny bit of understeer on exit.

Adjustments:
- Rear damper extension increased one click
- Frond damper extension increased one click
- Camber, tried 0/0 against 1.0/0.5 again. Zero still slightly quicker with a more grippy feel.

The car is slightly better. The dampers and camber seem to have reached their full usefulness. There is still a lot of body roll.

Adjustments (one at a time):
- LSD decel increased to 28 for entry stability
- Brake balance to 6/4 for entry stability
- Front ARB to 4 looking to reduce the dive to the outside front wheel
- Front toe changed to -0.10 to calm entry and increase exit turning

I liked all of the above changes except for the ARB change. It added mid-corner understeer which carried all the way through exit.

Adjustments:
- ARBs back to 3/3; both outside tires can turn red if too much speed is carried down to the apex. There is still a lot of body roll and I think this may be the cause of the red tires.
- Increased front and rear springs 7.0/8.25

This is a pretty fast car right here. Time to publish it. I plan to use this car online quite a bit, so I can update as more speed is found.
 
97
United States
NY, NY
GTP_Sparkaloo
GT6 Tuning Guide by Motor City Hamilton

Ballast
- First, view car in chase view to determine whether red tire is overloaded beyond its grip limit
or is sliding
- For sliding front tires, move ballast forward (negative number), which adds weight to the
front tires and encourages more grip
- For overloaded front tires, move ballast back (positive number), which removes weight from
the front tires, returning them to be within their grip limit
- For sliding rear tires, move ballast back (positive number), which adds weight to the rear
tires and encourages more grip
- For overloaded front tires, move ballast forward (negative number), which removes weight
from the rear tires, returning them to be within their grip limit

First, thank you for all your tuning efforts and guidance in all things GT. :bowdown: Second, I was puzzled by the quoted ballast section above. The third and fifth bullets contradict each other? Also, your comment back in GT5 about your tuning the LSD first ("as a sort of super-tune") has stuck with me. Often the LSD gets most of my tuning attention. Recently I have had an epiphany concerning the function of the LSD, and I'm excited to play around more with its effects in GT6 cars.
 
360
Spain
Santiago de Compostela, Spain
ltgaff
Hi Motor City Hami, in your Tuning Guide you mention that some things are still under testing. Have you tested them already?

Oh, and thanks. You've helped me a lot.
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
RX-7 Spirit R Type A (FD) '02
500 PP, 343 HP, 1100 kg
Weight Distribution 50:50

14760418171_5c3e2692d4_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Brands Hatch.

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Paint: Sprited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Exhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune for Game Version 1.10
Ride Height 100/88
Springs 6.75/8.50
Dampers Compression 1/3
Dampers Extension 6/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.15/0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/12/15
Power Level 95.6%
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 2.800
2nd gear 1.900
3rd gear 1.470
4th gear 1.205
5th gear 1.025
6th gear 0.900
Final gear 4.500 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I had already tuned this car for 90 miles in the 1.08 game update. Since I believe that there has been little change in what each tune setting does between 1.08 and 1.10, I started with the tune below rather than start over.

My 1.08 Tune:
Ride Height 105/88
Springs 6.75/8.50
Dampers Compression 1/3
Dampers Extension 6/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.15/0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/12/14
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

The car needs more stability on corner entry.
- LSD Decel to 15
- Ride Height to 100/80
- Rear Damper Extension to 4

Result: A pretty solid car
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Suzuki GSX-R/4 '01
500 PP, 187 HP, 650 kg
Weight Distribution 50:50

14576896160_ffdd4f1a60_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Mount Panorama.

Pit Service
None

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
RacingExhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Weight Reduction Stage 1

Tune for Game Version 1.10
Ride Height 80/80
Springs 5.50/6.00
Dampers Compression 4/3
Dampers Extension 4/5
Anti-Roll Bars 3/2
Camber 0.5/0.0
Toe -0.02/+0.10
Brake balance 6/3
LSD 12/11/30
Power Level 96.5%
Ballast 42
Ballast Position -25

Transmission
Final Gear to 6.000
Top Speed to 112 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 5.150
2nd gear 3.600
3rd gear 2.815
4th gear 2.325
5th gear 1.985
6th gear 1.750
Final gear 3.200 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
This is a new tune for game update 1.10. There really isn't that much difference in tune settings between game update 1.08 and 1.10. Many cars handle differently between the two game updates, but the good news is that we are not starting over, from scratch with what tune settings do. Camber is different, and the community does not agree, but I believe that zero is still the fastest camber setting. My belief is that PD just made the difference between zero and say three, much less than in previous game versions.

I started fresh with this default tune.

My 1.10 Default Tune:
Ride Height 75/75
Springs 5.00/6.00
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 4/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/+0.05
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 10/12/10
Ballast 42
Ballast Position 0

This is a pretty solid car with the starting settings. The car needs more stability on corner entry. Entry oversteer is pretty bad, especially in the downhill braking zones at Bathurst.

Changes:
- LSD Decel to 20
- Rear damper extention to 5
- Rear ride height to 80
- Rear toe to 0.10

All of these settings were meant to add stability to the car, especially on corner entry. Mission accomplished. The car improved, but it is still not good enough. Need more stability on corner entry and now also notice a bit of oversteer on corner exit.

Changes:
- Front springs to 5.5
- Rear ARB to 2
- Front damper compression to 4
- Front toe to 0.02
- LSD decel to 22

Again, looking for stability on entry and a bit on exit. Improved, but still not far enough.

Changes:
- Brake balance to 6/4

Better in the flat bits of the track, but the downhill sections are still difficult to keep control on corner entry. I don't feel like making one change at a time with this car. It is just not one of my favorites. Instead, it is time to go big or go home.

Changes:
- LSD decel to 28
- Ballast to -25
- Ride height to 80/80

Still a little loose on exit.

- LSD initial to 12. I was looking to tighten the car up on exit. It did, but it also added outside wheel spin.

- LSD to 12/11/30. Good.

Camber testing:
- Camber 1.0/0.5. This felt more stable, but I watched my ghost disappear into the distance lap, after lap.
- Camber to 2.0/1/0. Got even worse.
- Camber to 0.5/0.0 tamed the front a bit.

- Brake balance to 6/3

There is more refinement to be had with this car, but it is pretty solid with this current tune.
 
Last edited:
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Mustang Boss 302 R '13
550 PP, 574 hp, 1400 kg

14740591406_02852a3fdc_z.jpg


That's right. It is a Boss 302 R for Race Car!

Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change
Front Aero Type B
Rear Wing Custom Wing Type A
BBS RE-MG rims in standard size
Body Paint: Gotta Have It Green Metallic Tri Coat/Black Stripes
Rim Paint: Etna Black Metallic
Brake Rotor Paint: Electric Orange
Racing Number: Type D #51

14576895770_638401c8b0_z.jpg


Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

14576944299_16e27d1a3b_z.jpg


Tune 1.10
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7
LSD 9/12/5
Power Level 96.8%
Ballast 81
Ballast Position +50
Weight Distribution 52:48

14763261482_ba27bb4f44_z.jpg


Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.150
2nd gear 2.110
3rd gear 1.625
4th gear 1.310
5th gear 1.100
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes

I had already tuned this car a couple of times before the 1.09 game update. I was working on a 1.09 edition when 1.10 hit. I own this car in real life. It handles better than any other Mustang I have driven. Ford Racing agonized over this car for road course track day handling. The Boss logo has only been used in 1969/1970 and now in 2012/2013. I can tell you that the car is very well balanced.

So, I was excited to take this car out as one of my first drives in the 1.10 game update. I had already driven the BOSS 302 for 153.1 miles of 1.08 tuning. I decided not to start from scratch... just start where I left off in 1.08.

RH 80/80
Springs 8.00/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 7/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/-0.15
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/14/7
Ballast 81
Ballast Position 50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Nurburgring GP/F:
Really bad understeer from mid-corner to exit. Loose on exit with heavy outside wheel spin. God awful in the braking zones with very poor stopping distance. How could this car be worse now than it was in 1.08? It was pretty decent in 1.08, but now has some bad habits. To be honest, I was pissed. The real life version is a dream to drive. The GT6 version 🤬 🤬. :grumpy:

Rant: F-ing PD. There is no way that you actually drove the 2013 Boss302 in real life before building the programming for the game. The in-game version drives just like the in-game 2005 Mustang. The BOSS 302 is NOT a drag strip queen. This car was built for road racing and in real life, it is an absolute dream. In the game it handles like a 70's muscle car.

This is just laziness in the programming department. Try reading a review from a car site if you cannot find the time to drive such a sweet car. You killed this car with the last update. I want my money back. No, better yet. I want to challenge Kaz himself to a race in a BOSS 302. That's right. Kaz vs. me at Mid-Ohio. I will even pay for the gas, tires and entry fee. Kaz needs to know how one of these drives in real life.

Tune Changes:
- LSD to 10/10/5
- Ride Height to 100/80
- Brake balance to 5/6
- Front toe to -0.15

Still heavy understeer and a constantly glowing outside front tire in every corner. The braking zone feels like ABS is turned up to 12/12. Time to go to extremes.

Changes:
RH 120/80
Springs 7.50/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/6
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/5
Camber 0.0/1.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Front tires now lock under braking. Now have inside wheel spin on exit.

LSD 8/12/5 - The LSD feels weird. Like it abruptly locks and unlocks. The car is not consistent.

LSD 9/12/5 - better.

The car is a little odd now. It still has mid-corner understeer, but now kind of bounces on exit and can even break loose a little. The rear is too stiff. The springs are being asked to do too much.

Changes:
RH 125/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.7
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Improved, but give me more of the same. I am running out of options to rid this car of understeer. I also find it funny that PD thinks a 550PP Mustang on Sport Hard tires, programmed with massive understeer can beat a 600PP Enzo Ferrari on Sport Softs.

Changes:
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7

I have been able to make the BOSS 302 a more fund car to drive, but it is nowhere near its real world version. :(
 
Last edited:
1,485
United Kingdom
Hampshire
Lionheart2113
Mustang Boss 302 R '13
550 PP, 574 hp, 1400 kg

14740591406_02852a3fdc_z.jpg


That's right. It is a Boss 302 R for Race Car!

Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Tuning and Maintenance
Front Aero Type B
Rear Wing Custom Wing Type A
BBS RE-MG rims in standard size
Body Paint: Gotta Have It Green Metallic Tri Coat/Black Stripes
Rim Paint: Etna Black Metallic
Brake Rotor Paint: Electric Orange
Racing Number: Type D #51

14576895770_638401c8b0_z.jpg


Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

14576944299_16e27d1a3b_z.jpg


Tune 1.10
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7
LSD 9/12/5
Power Level 96.8%
Ballast 81
Ballast Position +50
Weight Distribution 52:48

14763261482_ba27bb4f44_z.jpg


Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.150
2nd gear 2.110
3rd gear 1.625
4th gear 1.310
5th gear 1.100
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes

I had already tuned this car a couple of times before the 1.09 game update. I was working on a 1.09 edition when 1.10 hit. I own this car in real life. It handles better than any other Mustang I have driven. Ford Racing agonized over this car for road course track day handling. The Boss logo has only been used in 1969/1970 and now in 2012/2013. I can tell you that the car is very well balanced.

So, I was excited to take this car out as one of my first drives in the 1.10 game update. I had already driven the BOSS 302 for 153.1 miles of 1.08 tuning. I decided not to start from scratch... just start where I left off in 1.08.

RH 80/80
Springs 8.00/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 7/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/-0.15
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/14/7
Ballast 81
Ballast Position 50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Nurburgring GP/F:
Really bad understeer from mid-corner to exit. Loose on exit with heavy outside wheel spin. God awful in the braking zones with very poor stopping distance. How could this car be worse now than it was in 1.08? It was pretty decent in 1.08, but now has some bad habits. To be honest, I was pissed. The real life version is a dream to drive. The GT6 version 🤬 🤬. :grumpy:

Rant: F-ing PD. There is no way that you actually drove the 2013 Boss302 in real life before building the programming for the game. The in-game version drives just like the in-game 2005 Mustang. The BOSS 302 is NOT a drag strip queen. This car was built for road racing and in real life, it is an absolute dream. In the game it handles like a 70's muscle car.

This is just laziness in the programming department. Try reading a review from a car site if you cannot find the time to drive such a sweet car. You killed this car with the last update. I want my money back. No, better yet. I want to challenge Kaz himself to a race in a BOSS 302. That's right. Kaz vs. me at Mid-Ohio. I will even pay for the gas, tires and entry fee. Kaz needs to know how one of these drives in real life.

Tune Changes:
- LSD to 10/10/5
- Ride Height to 100/80
- Brake balance to 5/6
- Front toe to -0.15

Still heavy understeer and a constantly glowing outside front tire in every corner. The braking zone feels like ABS is turned up to 12/12. Time to go to extremes.

Changes:
RH 120/80
Springs 7.50/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/6
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/5
Camber 0.0/1.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Front tires now lock under braking. Now have inside wheel spin on exit.

LSD 8/12/5 - The LSD feels weird. Like it abruptly locks and unlocks. The car is not consistent.

LSD 9/12/5 - better.

The car is a little odd now. It still has mid-corner understeer, but now kind of bounces on exit and can even break loose a little. The rear is too stiff. The springs are being asked to do too much.

Changes:
RH 125/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.7
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Improved, but give me more of the same. I am running out of options to rid this car of understeer. I also find it funny that PD thinks a 550PP Mustang on Sport Hard tires, programmed with massive understeer can beat a 600PP Enzo Ferrari on Sport Softs.

Changes:
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7

I have been able to make the BOSS 302 a more fund car to drive, but it is nowhere near its real world version. :(
Shame to hear that PD missed the mark with this one. I've never driven a Boss, but a long....long time ago I drove a 495 Shelby Mustang, and I scared the daylights out of myself and the salesman! So we all know your thoughts on the car, the million dollar question is....are you liking where they put the decals on the car? 51 looks good, but 45 would be better!:P
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Shame to hear that PD missed the mark with this one. I've never driven a Boss, but a long....long time ago I drove a 495 Shelby Mustang, and I scared the daylights out of myself and the salesman! So we all know your thoughts on the car, the million dollar question is....are you liking where they put the decals on the car? 51 looks good, but 45 would be better!:P

The Shelby GT500s were built to go in a straight line fast. They have a different shock, spring and ARB package in real life and supercharged for crazy fast speed. Only the BOSS got the road course treatment. The 2013 was the last hurrah for the solid rear axle. The 2015 now goes to independent rear suspension.

I like the number placement in the game. After I installed them, it just made me want to add more stickers.
 

Pete05

Premium
6,727
Australia
Melbourne, Australia
projectvkls3
Mustang Boss 302 R '13
550 PP, 574 hp, 1400 kg

14740591406_02852a3fdc_z.jpg


That's right. It is a Boss 302 R for Race Car!

Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Tuning and Maintenance
Front Aero Type B
Rear Wing Custom Wing Type A
BBS RE-MG rims in standard size
Body Paint: Gotta Have It Green Metallic Tri Coat/Black Stripes
Rim Paint: Etna Black Metallic
Brake Rotor Paint: Electric Orange
Racing Number: Type D #51

14576895770_638401c8b0_z.jpg


Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

14576944299_16e27d1a3b_z.jpg


Tune 1.10
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7
LSD 9/12/5
Power Level 96.8%
Ballast 81
Ballast Position +50
Weight Distribution 52:48

14763261482_ba27bb4f44_z.jpg


Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.150
2nd gear 2.110
3rd gear 1.625
4th gear 1.310
5th gear 1.100
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes

I had already tuned this car a couple of times before the 1.09 game update. I was working on a 1.09 edition when 1.10 hit. I own this car in real life. It handles better than any other Mustang I have driven. Ford Racing agonized over this car for road course track day handling. The Boss logo has only been used in 1969/1970 and now in 2012/2013. I can tell you that the car is very well balanced.

So, I was excited to take this car out as one of my first drives in the 1.10 game update. I had already driven the BOSS 302 for 153.1 miles of 1.08 tuning. I decided not to start from scratch... just start where I left off in 1.08.

RH 80/80
Springs 8.00/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 7/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/-0.15
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/14/7
Ballast 81
Ballast Position 50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Nurburgring GP/F:
Really bad understeer from mid-corner to exit. Loose on exit with heavy outside wheel spin. God awful in the braking zones with very poor stopping distance. How could this car be worse now than it was in 1.08? It was pretty decent in 1.08, but now has some bad habits. To be honest, I was pissed. The real life version is a dream to drive. The GT6 version 🤬 🤬. :grumpy:

Rant: F-ing PD. There is no way that you actually drove the 2013 Boss302 in real life before building the programming for the game. The in-game version drives just like the in-game 2005 Mustang. The BOSS 302 is NOT a drag strip queen. This car was built for road racing and in real life, it is an absolute dream. In the game it handles like a 70's muscle car.

This is just laziness in the programming department. Try reading a review from a car site if you cannot find the time to drive such a sweet car. You killed this car with the last update. I want my money back. No, better yet. I want to challenge Kaz himself to a race in a BOSS 302. That's right. Kaz vs. me at Mid-Ohio. I will even pay for the gas, tires and entry fee. Kaz needs to know how one of these drives in real life.

Tune Changes:
- LSD to 10/10/5
- Ride Height to 100/80
- Brake balance to 5/6
- Front toe to -0.15

Still heavy understeer and a constantly glowing outside front tire in every corner. The braking zone feels like ABS is turned up to 12/12. Time to go to extremes.

Changes:
RH 120/80
Springs 7.50/12.00
Dampers Compression 2/6
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/5
Camber 0.0/1.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Front tires now lock under braking. Now have inside wheel spin on exit.

LSD 8/12/5 - The LSD feels weird. Like it abruptly locks and unlocks. The car is not consistent.

LSD 9/12/5 - better.

The car is a little odd now. It still has mid-corner understeer, but now kind of bounces on exit and can even break loose a little. The rear is too stiff. The springs are being asked to do too much.

Changes:
RH 125/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 10/3
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.7
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 6/7
LSD 8/11/5

Improved, but give me more of the same. I am running out of options to rid this car of understeer. I also find it funny that PD thinks a 550PP Mustang on Sport Hard tires, programmed with massive understeer can beat a 600PP Enzo Ferrari on Sport Softs.

Changes:
RH 135/75
Springs 7.50/10.00
Dampers Compression 1/5
Dampers Extension 10/4
Anti-Roll Bars 1/5
Camber 0.0/0.8
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/7

I have been able to make the BOSS 302 a more fund car to drive, but it is nowhere near its real world version. :(
Hey Hami,
I've got a helluva lot of respect for someone that actually gets out on the track & knows what they're talking about.
To actually have a real-world Boss to compare to the PD version is a bonus and I'm really jealous on that count. For the two versions to be so far apart is so deflating & has me re-naming the once great GranTursimo from 'The Real Driving Simulator' to 'The BS stimulator'
I haven't actually played for over a fortnight now thanks to the the AI component.
To go from dullards that took off at the start only to slow down & let you win ( not forgetting the braking in places that real people just wouldn't do, like exiting a corner) to maniacs that punt you off like kamikaze f$&@wits is the biggest insult of all.
That on top of your Boss findings just about does it for me with PD unless GT7 is a revolution not an evolution.
 
1,485
United Kingdom
Hampshire
Lionheart2113
The Shelby GT500s were built to go in a straight line fast. They have a different shock, spring and ARB package in real life and supercharged for crazy fast speed. Only the BOSS got the road course treatment. The 2013 was the last hurrah for the solid rear axle. The 2015 now goes to independent rear suspension.

I like the number placement in the game. After I installed them, it just made me want to add more stickers.
I wanted to test drive this bad boy but my numbers aren't matching yours....
image.jpg

Where did I screw up?:dunce:
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
I wanted to test drive this bad boy but my numbers aren't matching yours....
View attachment 194624
Where did I screw up?:dunce:

I wonder if the no oil change glitch has been patched. I did not think that I had done an oil change on this car? Maybe I did, but unlikely. I am at 192.3 miles with the car. Just checked the tune and I am down a little on power. Did the oil change and I am back to 550 pp, 574 hp with the settings that you are showing.
 
1,485
United Kingdom
Hampshire
Lionheart2113
I wonder if the no oil change glitch has been patched. I did not think that I had done an oil change on this car? Maybe I did, but unlikely. I am at 192.3 miles with the car. Just checked the tune and I am down a little on power. Did the oil change and I am back to 550 pp, 574 hp with the settings that you are showing.
Yeppers, just did the oil change with 0.0 miles and the numbers match.👍
 
443
United States
United States
ask me
Rant: F-ing PD. There is no way that you actually drove the 2013 Boss302 in real life before building the programming for the game. The in-game version drives just like the in-game 2005 Mustang. The BOSS 302 is NOT a drag strip queen. This car was built for road racing and in real life, it is an absolute dream. In the game it handles like a 70's muscle car.

This is just laziness in the programming department. Try reading a review from a car site if you cannot find the time to drive such a sweet car. You killed this car with the last update. I want my money back. No, better yet. I want to challenge Kaz himself to a race in a BOSS 302. That's right. Kaz vs. me at Mid-Ohio. I will even pay for the gas, tires and entry fee. Kaz needs to know how one of these drives in real life. (...) I have been able to make the BOSS 302 a more fund car to drive, but it is nowhere near its real world version. :(
do you want me to post this in the "cars represented incorrectly" thread? I think it would enhance the chances of it getting fixed for GT7.

For reference, what times did you manage with the Suzuki GSX on the Bathurst seasonal?
 
Last edited:
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
do you want me to post this in the "cars represented incorrectly" thread? I think it would enhance the chances of it getting fixed for GT7.

That would be cool.

For reference, what times did you manage with the Suzuki GSX on the Bathurst seasonal?

I am not a huge fan of this car at Bathurst. I only tuned until I could get gold plus a few laps for fun. I did not really attack this time trial to go for the best flying lap. I wanted to make the GSX more fun to drive and get gold. So my time is about a second or so under the gold time, if I remember correctly. Many of my friends are a couple of seconds faster than that.
 
720
Canada
Canada
Thanks for posting more notes. I spent much time with The Boss and even though it might not drive like the real thing I like the challenge of driving this car through turns. I'm kind of sad that GT will never have anything like my vehicle in the game for me to compare with the real thing (Jeep 1981 CJ-5). I'm not into very many modern car designs, but the look of the body on The Boss does attract my attention (as does the Shelby GT500). It has that aura of brute power about it.

I have one question: when you are tuning, do you do so with online physics or the arcade mode physics? I noticed on in the NSX notes you talked about using it online. I assume that there are still two slightly different physics models.
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
I have one question: when you are tuning, do you do so with online physics or the arcade mode physics? I noticed on in the NSX notes you talked about using it online. I assume that there are still two slightly different physics models.

It's a mixture. I like starting offline because I can compare my laps to he ghost. Then I finish up online if I play to use the car for that. If it's just for a seasonal or time trial and not a car I will use often, I just tune in single player mode.

I find the biggest difference in online is the first couple of laps. There is less grip as the tires warm up. If the tune is well balanced offline, it will be well balanced online. I find that people will tune on racing tires offline then wonder why online felt so different in those first few laps. It's the same thing as tuning on Racing Softs, then changing to Sport Hards and saying that you need a completely different tune. Racing tires can mask problems with tune balance. I tune mostly on Sport Hard tires, then refine on whatever tire I will be racing with.
 
Last edited: