Motor City Tunes GT6

23
Canada
Toronto
KamperAssassin
I hope you won't mind me posting this here, but it felt the most obvious and appropriate place. I just want to know, Hami, is this a legitimate race tactic? And if so, do you think it's something you might have the opportunity to incorporate into your own racing? :sly:


Oh man that's dirty
 
368
United States
Oregon
Comrade-Shepard
Staying on the brakes late into the corner will cause nasty oversteer as you lift off the brakes. Try braking a little earlier and just use the brakes to scrub some speed, not to stop the car. Also, if you are struggling with wheel spin or using a DS3, I recommend using TCS1 until you learn better throttle control.
Wow, that thing sounds rather... unpleasant to drive. I was considering grinding up the credits for it, but now I think I'll hold off in favor of some other stuff I had my eye on.
 
147
Keblast
Formula Gran Turismo
880 PP, 935hp, 570 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

14914918478_4a81fb6f4d_z.jpg


Tuned for the FGT Seasonal Event at Silverstone. Staying on the brakes late into the corner will cause nasty oversteer as you lift off the brakes. Try braking a little earlier and just use the brakes to scrub some speed, not to stop the car. Also, if you are struggling with wheel spin or using a DS3, I recommend using TCS1 until you learn better throttle control.

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Racing Exhaust

Tune 1.11
RH 45/47
Springs 18.50/17.00
Dampers Compression 8/5
Dampers Extension 6/9
Anti-Roll Bars 7/5
Camber 0.5/0.0
Toe +0.05/+0.20
Brake balance 4/4
LSD 12/10/35
Downforce 700/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 20 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 48:52

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 149 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 6.000
2nd gear 4.300
3rd gear 3.285
4th gear 2.655
5th gear 2.230
6th gear 1.935
7th gear 1.725
Final gear 3.500 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:

I started with my DS3 quick tune (5 laps of effort).
RH 42/45
Springs 17.50/17.00
Dampers Compression 7/5
Dampers Extension 8/8
Anti-Roll Bars 7/5
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe +0.05/+0.20
Brake balance 5/4
LSD 11/10/25
Downforce 700/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 20 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 48:52

Slight inside wheel spin. Very unstable under braking.
LSD 11/12/30
BB 6/4

Front brake lock up.
BB 6/5

Still very loose on entry.
DE to 7/9

Outside wheel spin on exit.
LSD 11/11/30

Super unstable under braking with front wheel lock.
LSD 11/12/35
SR 18.00/17.00
DC 8/5
BB 4.5

This car is funky. Not much improving. Outside wheel spin now. I am just fishing for anything to start making improvements. Moving some settings back closer to stock.
LSD 12/10/25
BB 5/5
RH 45/45

Still loose on entry.
12/10/35
RH 45/47
SR 18.50/17.00
DE 6/9

At least I can drive the car now. Still loose on entry, but I can pretty much rip the throttle from mid corner through exit. The car is getting faster now.
Camber 0.5/0.0

Good, fast car, but still funky getting off the brakes. So, I ran some laps without using much brake and my lap time dropped significantly. BB to 4/4 and using the brakes only to drag some speed out of the car. Braking a little earlier and with less force. Being really smooth releasing the brake pedal.


Great explaination detail. I ve learned couple thing that wasnt aware of it. Thanks!
 
10
New Zealand
New Zealand
Atownbandit
Hey MCH,
I have tried your tuning garage for the first time in the form of the evora and firstly, i must say i have spent hours tuning the evora myself with no luck. You've cracked it! That sweet little lift off oversteer into corner entry you talk about is just oh so sweet. I have a challenge for you should you wish to accept it, a 500pp sports soft tune for the lotus 111r for online racing, mainly at the nordschleife. This is a great car with great handling and good speed with minimal tuning but it has its quirks and i would love to see how you optimize it!
 

Pete05

Premium
6,727
Australia
Melbourne, Australia
projectvkls3
Hey MCH,
I have tried your tuning garage for the first time in the form of the evora and firstly, i must say i have spent hours tuning the evora myself with no luck. You've cracked it! That sweet little lift off oversteer into corner entry you talk about is just oh so sweet. I have a challenge for you should you wish to accept it, a 500pp sports soft tune for the lotus 111r for online racing, mainly at the nordschleife. This is a great car with great handling and good speed with minimal tuning but it has its quirks and i would love to see how you optimize it!
Hami has definitely cured the Evora of it's wickedness & evil tendencies.
 
10
New Zealand
New Zealand
Atownbandit
Man i loved the evora in gt5 but they have butchered it just as much as they have butchered the aw11 mr2 in gt6! And yea hami's evora is one of the sweetest cars ive had the pleasure of driving on this game. Im just such a lotus 111r fan boy haha. I do have a current 500pp tune for it but there is just a couple specific things that i just cant fine tune out and its costing me laptime/consistency
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Hey MCH,
I have tried your tuning garage for the first time in the form of the evora and firstly, i must say i have spent hours tuning the evora myself with no luck. You've cracked it! That sweet little lift off oversteer into corner entry you talk about is just oh so sweet. I have a challenge for you should you wish to accept it, a 500pp sports soft tune for the lotus 111r for online racing, mainly at the nordschleife. This is a great car with great handling and good speed with minimal tuning but it has its quirks and i would love to see how you optimize it!

I like that car. Just haven't gotten to it in GT6. My game time has been limited lately. May get to it this weekend?
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Honda CR-Z @ '10
400 PP, 168 hp, 1075 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

15170003442_bff86663b9_z.jpg


Tuned for the 400 PP Seasonal Events at Nurburg GP/D.

Tuning and Maintenance
No Oil Change
Front Aero Type A
OZ Racing Superforgiata Rims
Paint: GT6 Matte 014 Green

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Fully Customizable LSD
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Racing Exhaust
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune 1.11
Ride Height 100/100
Springs 5.25/5.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 8/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/7
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/5
LSD 7/11/7
Power Level 97.4%
Ballast 130 kg
Ballast Position +50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Transmission
Final Gear to 4.000
Top Speed to 112 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.750
2nd gear 2.650
3rd gear 2.060
4th gear 1.695
5th gear 1.450
6th gear 1.275
Final gear 3.250 (adjust this to set top speed at red line on longest straight)

Tuning Notes

Starting Tune
Comfort Medium Tires for tuning
Ride Height 100/100
Springs 4.75/5.00
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 7/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/5
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 7/10/5
Ballast 130 kg
Ballast Position +50
Weight Distribution 52:48

Surprisingly good car on the starting tune. This car is way better in GT6 than it was in GT5. The nose dives on entry. Though it provides a very aggressive entry, it is not smooth and easy to drive consistently.
- Spring rate 5.25/5.50 raised both front and rear to slow the front dive, but keep the corner balance
- Damper compression 4/3 to slow the front dive
- ARB 4/6 to slow the front weight transfer to the outside

These changes went in the proper direction, but too far. The nose does not take a set now on entry so now I have understeer getting down to the apex. The rear is also leaning quite a bit.
- Damper compression 3/3 to allow the nose to drop a bit under braking, but kept the spring rate higher
- ARB 3/7 to allow the nose to transfer weight, but to slow the rear from transferring weight

Getting front wheel lock up under braking. Also need more corner exit steering. I am worried that the brakes will upset entry if I only lower front brake balance - will it cause entry oversteer? So this is a balancing act of solving one problem but also making another change to offset the effects of the fix to the first problem.
- Brake balance 4/5 get rid of front wheel lock up
- LSD to 7/10/7 for more stability off throttle
- DC 3/4 for slowed weight transfer to the rear on exit, more front grip on exit
- DE 8/4 to slow front to rear weight transfer on exit, more front grip on exit

Solid improvements. Now detecting a slight bit of inside wheel spin on exit.
- 7/11/7

This car is now smooth all the way through the corner and can be driven to very consistent lap times. I hated this car in GT5, but in GT6, with this tune, it is among my favorite FFs in the game. Put sport hard tires back on and go dominate the 400 PP class.
 
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4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Subaru S206 NBR Challege Package '12
500 PP, 355 hp, 1275 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

15147356316_f65df1ee6e_z.jpg

Tuned for the 500 PP Seasonal Events at Apricot Hill.

Tuning and Maintenance
No Oil Change
Front Aero Type A
OZ Racing Superforgiata Rims
Paint: Ice Silver Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Standard Transmission
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Fully Customizable LSD
Center Differential
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Semi-Racing Exhaust
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune 1.11
Ride Height 105/95
Springs 5.50/9.00
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 9/5
Anti-Roll Bars 3/6
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.25/-0.12
Brake balance 4/5
LSD Front 12/15/7
LSD Rear 10/12/12
F/R Torque Split 40/60
Power Limiter 98.6%
Ballast 70
Ballast Position +50

Transmission (Standard)
1st gear 3.636
2nd gear 2.375
3rd gear 1.761
4th gear 1.346
5th gear 1.062
6th gear 0.842
Final gear 3.900

Tuning Notes

Starting Tune
Ride Height 115/95
Springs 6.00/9.00
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 7/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/7
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.25/-0.15
Brake balance 4/6
LSD Front 12/15/7
LSD Rear 10/12/5
F/R Torque Split 40/60
Ballast 70
Ballast Position +50

Not getting enough front dive on entry. If pushing too hard on entry, it will really screw up mid corner and exit. Need to fix entry before I can learn anything about mid corner and exit needs. The ride height glitch may be causing some of this entry problem? The car does not want to turn in, so I grab more wheel, then late entry the car can get loose, rear first, then front. Corner entry needs to be more smooth. The car is also really good on exit of high speed corners, but it has some understeer on exit of slower corners.
- Ride height to 100/95 for better entry
- Springs to 5.50/9.00 for better entry
- DC 2/4 to both drop the nose quicker under braking, but to slow rear lift too. So more turn in, but more stability too.
- ARB 3/6 to calm the car down on entry
- LSD rear 10/12/9 to calm the car down on entry
- Brake balance 4/6 to calm down braking

This improved corner entry, but hurt corner exit on the higher speed corners.
- DE 8/4 to hold the nose down longer through the corner, more exit front grip
- RH back in the other direction, 105/95 for more front grip

A far better car already, but still loose on entry and need more late exit grip.
- DC 2/5 to slow rear compression, more front exit grip
- DE 9/5 to slow front extension, more front exit grip and to slow rear weight transfer on entry, more entry stability
- Rear toe to -0.12 for more rear grip through the corner, a bit to offset some of the damper changes

Better, but do more.
- DE 10/5 to slow front extension, more front exit grip
- Rear LSD 10/12/12 for more stable entry

The car is really good, but still a little loose on corner entry. It's really fun to drive like this, so I am stopping here. There may be another tenth or two to be found if using this car for a time trial.

Enjoy.
 
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4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Mazda RX-8 Type S '07
500 PP, 377 hp, 1100 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

14983656209_054681d29c_z.jpg


Tuned for the 500 PP Seasonal Events at Twin Ring Motegi East.

Tuning and Maintenance
No Oil Change
Front Aero Type A
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Fully Customizable LSD
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune 1.11
Ride Height 95/95
Springs 7.25/6.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 7/5
Anti-Roll Bars 5/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.12/0.10
Brake balance 6/5
LSD 9/7/7
Power Limiter 100%
Ballast 28
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 6.000
Top Speed to 112 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 3.700
2nd gear 2.600
3rd gear 2.015
4th gear 1.655
5th gear 1.415
6th gear 1.250
Final gear 4.300 (adjust this to set top speed at red line on longest straight)

Tuning Notes

Starting Tune
Ride Height 95/95
Springs 6.50/6.00
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.05/0.05
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 10/12/7
Power Limiter 100%
Ballast 28
Ballast Position 0

Outside wheel spin on corner exit.
- 10/10/7

Outside wheel spin on exit and oversteer everywhere, except for late exit. Also lots of body roll
- SR 7.25/6.50
- DE 6/5
- ARB 5/4 to calm body roll and oversteer
- Toe 0.05/0.10 to calm oversteer
- LSD 9/9/9 to rid outside wheel spin and entry oversteer

This car responds very well to small changes. I wish that American cars were programmed in GT6 with this much precision. Still has outside wheel spin on exit and a tiny bit of understeer on corner entry.
- LSD 9/8/8

I love it when a car has that little bit of lift off oversteer. Still need a little more mid-corner grip.
- Toe -0.12/0.10

Needs more stability under braking.
- Brake balance 6/5

Still a touch of outside wheel spin and could use more entry rotation.
- LSD 9/7/7

Great car. Stop here and drive it to 100 race wins.
 
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755
Malaysia
Malaysia
steve_NFS
Just a question to ask Sir, is practice online with our own room fast or offline fast on timetrial? Many people say it's time trial offline. But if the fuel become less & the tires set not to conceive in online mode, it should gain a fast time lap while in offline time trial the fuel is full all the time. Can get an answer? Thks anyway!​
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
Just a question to ask Sir, is practice online with our own room fast or offline fast on timetrial? Many people say it's time trial offline. But if the fuel become less & the tires set not to conceive in online mode, it should gain a fast time lap while in offline time trial the fuel is full all the time. Can get an answer? Thks anyway!​

I think you are asking two questions?

First, are lap times different for time trial offline vs. online? I have not tested this.

Second, are lap times different with tire wear and fuel consumption on? Yes. It can take a few laps for the tires to heat up for that one flying fast lap and the tires will start to drop off after half of the tire life is used.
 
755
Malaysia
Malaysia
steve_NFS
Need your test & see the real result Sir! Thks for your attention. In online mode just run until the fuel less than half, with your not bearable tires setting or change at the pit to see is it faster time laps than offline time trial! Good luck...
 
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Mercury1

Premium
307
Australia
Sydney
robmchugh
You should certainly do that. I enjoy watching racing immensely, particularly the close quarters ugly stuff. I'm not all that into open wheel racing (F1/Indy), whilst I appreciate them as apex events within motor racing, I like the blue-collar stuff. I just caught up with the British Touring Cars yesterday, the first race was carnage and hugely enjoyable :mischievous:

{Cy}
Yep. Love the BTC's - especially at Brands Hatch, "proper racing that is, know what I mean?" (said with dodgy attempt at English accent via Sydney). :)
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton
West Surrey Racing, 1983 Ayrton Senna
559 PP, 172 hp, 455 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

15031382728_1395657652_z.jpg


Tuned for the WSR, 1983 Ayrton Senna Super Lap at Madrid. I was able to gold this event with just my transmission settings and lowering the LSD Accel to 25, using the default suspension settings. If you are just looking for gold, try that and move on. I then spent some time trying to squeak out a fast flying lap. My current lap is 1:25.816 which is good enough for 275th place at the moment. I have no idea how the fast among us are getting into the 1:24's and 1:23's. Maybe my tune in the hands of an alien can get there, but in my hands, its worth about a 1:25.

Link to rate this tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/west-surrey-racing-1983-ayrton-senna.695/

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Racing Exhaust

Tune 1.11
RH 40/40
Springs 15.00/18.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 8/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.35/+0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/10/14
Downforce 800/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 0 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 46:54

Transmission
Final Gear to 2.500 (using the reverse flip)
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 4.550
2nd gear 3.000
3rd gear 2.260
4th gear 1.852
5th gear 1.550
Final gear 2.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I spent about two hours with this car and kept pretty good notes. I will share these later tonight or on Saturday.
 
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1,174
United States
So Cal
Whisper_Crew
West Surrey Racing, 1983 Ayrton Senna
559 PP, 172 hp, 455 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

15031382728_1395657652_z.jpg


Tuned for the WSR, 1983 Ayrton Senna Super Lap at Madrid. I was able to gold this event with just my transmission settings and lowering the LSD Accel to 25, using the default suspension settings. If you are just looking for gold, try that and move on. I then spent some time trying to squeak out a fast flying lap. My current lap is 1:25.816 which is good enough for 275th place at the moment. I have no idea how the fast among us are getting into the 1:24's and 1:23's. Maybe my tune in the hands of an alien can get there, but in my hands, its worth about a 1:25.

Link to rate this tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/west-surrey-racing-1983-ayrton-senna.695/

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Racing Exhaust

Tune 1.11
RH 40/40
Springs 15.00/18.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 8/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.35/+0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/10/14
Downforce 800/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 0 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 46:54

Transmission
Final Gear to 2.500 (using the reverse flip)
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 4.550
2nd gear 3.000
3rd gear 2.260
4th gear 1.852
5th gear 1.550
Final gear 2.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I spent about two hours with this car and kept pretty good notes. I will share these later tonight or on Saturday.
This saved me one second after reducing rear downforce to 850. Thank you!!! 1'25.486
 
32
Canada
Canada
Poseidol
Thank you for this tune Motor City Hami! I'm not quite at the gold yet, but your tune helped a lot (my time is currently 1:30.XXX). Lots of room for improvement, but will get there quite soon. The car is very stable and quick...

Update: just got gold, with a time of 1:28.657. Also changed the oil and will see if I can improve on that time. Thanks again...
 
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2
United States
United States
SirNinners
So i have a question or two, for anyone who can answer really, concerning if i'm understanding a few things or not and a bit about the data logger. First though i wanna thank Mr. Hami for not just stating what does what but your thought processes behind it and some why's. That's a tremendous help for me. I've just started GT6 a few weeks ago and have only played 2 or 3 arcade style drivers for very short times since the last driving sim i played a lot which was the original GT way back when. So my driving skills aren't that great and my ability to see/notice what's going on while driving is a bit low also. Knowing the what's and why's is really helping me, tons.

Using the data logger actually helped me quite a bit with the cornering aspect that you were trying to show with the circles on your drawings. I think i remember reading Mr. Hami here hasn't messed with it yet, i think it's wonderfull. As long as you access it through the main menu and remember to save the fastest lap replays. From there you can set it up to see a graph with individual wheel speed, individual corner ride height, lateral and longitudnial gforces and steering wheel angle. I could see while breaking my front tires would suddenly drop in wheel speed then immediately get much quicker while my rear stayed smooth. I think that would be from ABS kicking in and lowered front brake level. Also in mid corner i saw Left Front tire go +20mm; Right Front go - 10mm; Left Rear stay even; and Right Rear go -20mm. Also that when breaking my front dived quite low while my rear barely went up. I figured the front sway bar needed lowering to keep the Front Left from lifting from the ground. the rear needed loosening and dampers lowered to allow it to move more. The only thing on the front was to tighten springs to restrict diving without affecting cornering too bad. It all seemed to work out and ended up with the whole left side going +10mm and the whole right side going down -20mm in the middle of the corner. Was i correct in my thinking here and outcome? Did i miss anything?

Now the LSD, that's proving trouble getting my head around. I thought i did and had it set to my car fine (all three significanly lower than stock settings.) Inside, Outside tire spin seemed as equal as i could braking was straight and didn't give any under or oversteer at turning (besides what is already there whether breaking or not.)But i had set up Tab B to test quite different settings and forgot to change the stock lsd. While driving i had noticed my outside rear starting to heat up and slip going into oversteer and during hard braking my car actually started pulling into the turn. I had thought that either my driving smoothed out, my set up was better or something else allowed the improper LSD settings to show. But it was just not chaning it from default. my confusion came from braking setting. Wouldn't my car "pulling" into the turn be an oversteer situation. You stated to lower the setting if it had understeer and to raise it if it had oversteer. With stock being a bit higher than my setting of 6 that seems to be fine. It should of had understeer. If i understand correctly how these differentials work. Setting the brake setting determines how free the wheels are to turn different from each other. Low setting enables them to vary greatly which would allow one wheel to be significanly slowed quicker than the other allowing that side to actually pull the car, resulting in an oversteer situation. while raising it, keeps the wheels closer to the same speed making them not to want to turn while braking, giving the understeer. However my car started turning in with a higher decel setting. Am i not getting something here? Could it be since my initial was higher and it only happened during a harder than normal braking at the start of braking but lessened when actually getting to the apex. That the limiter was kicking in causeing it to only occur during those moments? But why oversteer instead of understeer since there was a higher decell level? Also i'm still not fully sure i understand the initial. Other than my little braking issue i didn't really see any oversteer, understeer issue no matter what setting i had it. Or does it seem i have a better handle on it now?

Anyways thanks in advance in anyone that can help clear up my befuddled brain and for what seems to be a friendly garage.
 
1,443
Cyprus
Girne- North Cyprus
BADGER-UK-66
West Surrey Racing, 1983 Ayrton Senna
559 PP, 172 hp, 455 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

15031382728_1395657652_z.jpg


Tuned for the WSR, 1983 Ayrton Senna Super Lap at Madrid. I was able to gold this event with just my transmission settings and lowering the LSD Accel to 25, using the default suspension settings. If you are just looking for gold, try that and move on. I then spent some time trying to squeak out a fast flying lap. My current lap is 1:25.816 which is good enough for 275th place at the moment. I have no idea how the fast among us are getting into the 1:24's and 1:23's. Maybe my tune in the hands of an alien can get there, but in my hands, its worth about a 1:25.

Link to rate this tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/west-surrey-racing-1983-ayrton-senna.695/

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Racing Exhaust

Tune 1.11
RH 40/40
Springs 15.00/18.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 8/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.35/+0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/10/14
Downforce 800/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 0 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 46:54

Transmission
Final Gear to 2.500 (using the reverse flip)
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 4.550
2nd gear 3.000
3rd gear 2.260
4th gear 1.852
5th gear 1.550
Final gear 2.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I spent about two hours with this car and kept pretty good notes. I will share these later tonight or on Saturday.

Thanks for this Awesome Gold tune.....You just saved me from going completely nuts after 3 days of trying.....Cheers for all your hard work on tuning this car for this Seasonal.....:bowdown:

:cheers:
 
6,293
Canada
Canada
RX-7 Spirit R Type A (FD) '02
500 PP, 343 HP, 1100 kg
Weight Distribution 50:50

14760418171_5c3e2692d4_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tuned at Brands Hatch.

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Paint: Sprited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Exhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune for Game Version 1.10
Ride Height 100/88
Springs 6.75/8.50
Dampers Compression 1/3
Dampers Extension 6/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.15/0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/12/15
Power Level 95.6%
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 2.800
2nd gear 1.900
3rd gear 1.470
4th gear 1.205
5th gear 1.025
6th gear 0.900
Final gear 4.500 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I had already tuned this car for 90 miles in the 1.08 game update. Since I believe that there has been little change in what each tune setting does between 1.08 and 1.10, I started with the tune below rather than start over.

My 1.08 Tune:
Ride Height 105/88
Springs 6.75/8.50
Dampers Compression 1/3
Dampers Extension 6/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.15/0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/12/14
Ballast 61
Ballast Position 0

The car needs more stability on corner entry.
- LSD Decel to 15
- Ride Height to 100/80
- Rear Damper Extension to 4

Result: A pretty solid car

Absolutely loving this tune right now 👍 Been using it online in 500pp SS rooms, and it's really competitive, even for a novice like me :).

Looking forward to trying out your RX8 :sly:
 
4,803
United States
Dearborn, MI
MotorCtyHamilton

Sorry that I did not get to answer this before now. I have had a severely bad cold this past week.

I have tested the data logger now. I was using it to see different wheel speeds for setting the LSD. I find the numbers to be a bit misleading. When I tune by feel, I tend to run low LSD accel numbers like between 10 and 12. But when I look at the data logger, it often indicates that I am getting a bit of inside wheel spin. I am torn on which to trust; feel or the data. For cars that I race online, I go with feel. For cars entered into FITT competitions, I tend to follow the data. My driving style with a wheel and pedals is smooth into the throttle. Many of the test drivers use the DS3 which is more difficult to ease into the throttle. For this reason, the higher number in the data logger helps those drivers to keep control from apex to exit.

I have also used the data logger to see which end of the car was locking up under hard braking. It is very useful for that looking at wheel speeds.

I do not find the data logger very useful for comparing corner speeds. I just keep running laps against the ghost and get a better feel for whether I am keeping up or not.

For LSD lately, I have been starting at 10/10/10. If you start there, then simply optimize LSD Accel, you can be quick. As for the corner entry oversteer with a high LSD Decel number, the only explanation I can come up with is to look at brake balance. Were you running a low front BB and a high rear? That could account for the oversteer on entry. Or did you have super low front damper compression or super low rear damper extension? Either of these could have been causing a snap oversteer situation?
 
2
United States
United States
SirNinners
Sorry that I did not get to answer this before now. I have had a severely bad cold this past week.

I have tested the data logger now. I was using it to see different wheel speeds for setting the LSD. I find the numbers to be a bit misleading. When I tune by feel, I tend to run low LSD accel numbers like between 10 and 12. But when I look at the data logger, it often indicates that I am getting a bit of inside wheel spin. I am torn on which to trust; feel or the data. For cars that I race online, I go with feel. For cars entered into FITT competitions, I tend to follow the data. My driving style with a wheel and pedals is smooth into the throttle. Many of the test drivers use the DS3 which is more difficult to ease into the throttle. For this reason, the higher number in the data logger helps those drivers to keep control from apex to exit.

I have also used the data logger to see which end of the car was locking up under hard braking. It is very useful for that looking at wheel speeds.

I do not find the data logger very useful for comparing corner speeds. I just keep running laps against the ghost and get a better feel for whether I am keeping up or not.

For LSD lately, I have been starting at 10/10/10. If you start there, then simply optimize LSD Accel, you can be quick. As for the corner entry oversteer with a high LSD Decel number, the only explanation I can come up with is to look at brake balance. Were you running a low front BB and a high rear? That could account for the oversteer on entry. Or did you have super low front damper compression or super low rear damper extension? Either of these could have been causing a snap oversteer situation?


No worries about how long it took. I try not to expect fast responses from a forum, never know another's life, just remain pleasantly surprised if it is quick. I'd think the data logger would be more accurate, but you wouldn't be able to match your driving style without driving. I'm just using it and some formulas to get a base, a starting point. Since the default points don't seem to change after upgrades, weight changes, etc., I'm assuming those are no longer as accurate. Want to get a new baseline then tweak from there to get what seems to be better for me. Still got a lot of learning/experience to gain with actual driving but i figured knowing what everything does and how it does it will help me.

As far as my brake balance i had it at 9/8 until i noticed from the data logger those two little "stutters" then lowered the front and have an 8/8. Also no tires went red. Using racing hards with that balance. My dampers are 4/3 comp and 5/4 ext. so not super low but with a lower rear. It's more like a pull. As if the braking balance from side to side is off. Which lead me to think the decel diff but it would seem backwards because a higher number should be more locked and should create more of a "i want to go straight" instead of "i want turn a lot". As far as i understand things. Of course that made me question if i understood things or not. lol. I haven't been able to get in the game to mess around with it and try and understand it better myself, real life coolant leaks can be a bear.

Though just now thinking about it i did take a 44/50 weight balance add ballast to get a 49/50. Wonder if that could have an effect on it. Will try messing around with it when i figure out which gasket I'm going to have to replace.
 
20
China
China
tbowei905
West Surrey Racing, 1983 Ayrton Senna
559 PP, 172 hp, 455 kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

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Tuned for the WSR, 1983 Ayrton Senna Super Lap at Madrid. I was able to gold this event with just my transmission settings and lowering the LSD Accel to 25, using the default suspension settings. If you are just looking for gold, try that and move on. I then spent some time trying to squeak out a fast flying lap. My current lap is 1:25.816 which is good enough for 275th place at the moment. I have no idea how the fast among us are getting into the 1:24's and 1:23's. Maybe my tune in the hands of an alien can get there, but in my hands, its worth about a 1:25.

Link to rate this tune: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/west-surrey-racing-1983-ayrton-senna.695/

Tuning and Maintenance
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Racing Exhaust

Tune 1.11
RH 40/40
Springs 15.00/18.50
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 8/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.35/+0.05
Brake balance 4/6
LSD 10/10/14
Downforce 800/900
Power Level 100.0%
Ballast 0 kg
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 46:54

Transmission
Final Gear to 2.500 (using the reverse flip)
Top Speed to 124 (never change this setting past this point)
1st gear 4.550
2nd gear 3.000
3rd gear 2.260
4th gear 1.852
5th gear 1.550
Final gear 2.000 (adjust this to set top speed at redline on longest straight)

Tuning Notes:
I spent about two hours with this car and kept pretty good notes. I will share these later tonight or on Saturday.
Hi,Hami. Thanks for u tune, I have question, I saw you write:(using the reverse flip) . What's the reverse flip? How to use? When to use it? What is the difference and flip? Thank you:tup:
 
1,443
Cyprus
Girne- North Cyprus
BADGER-UK-66
GT6 Tuning Guide by Motor City Hamilton

Prologue
I thought it would be useful to describe the way I approach tuning. I primarily build tunes for my use and maybe do an occasional request. I have no interest in the tuning garage arms race for having the most cars listed in the garage. I also like to spend time with a car before calling a tune finished and posting it (I have a couple dozen tunes from GT5 that I never got around to posting – may have to do that some day). I don’t know how some of the garages can crank out so many tunes in such a short time. I will give Praiano a break from that thinking because every single car I have driven from his garage is near perfection. A few tweaks for my driving style and I am off to the winners circle. I also have respect for the Clueless garage. They crank out like five tunes an hour our something (<--exaggeration) but they do have more tuners over there than the pizza delivery services. Plus I think they are among the nicest, most helpful people on GT Planet. So, in my long winded way, I am saying that if you are looking for a specific car tune, start with them or any of the other garages that you like. I will not be able to keep up with their productivity.

So why are you here? What can Motor City Tunes do for you? I will continue to post tunes for most everything that I drive and will still do an occasional request tune, but I think my role on GT Planet serves a different purpose. I am satisfied with taking on the role of the teacher. In real life I am a strategist and a problem solver. Solving car handling problems fits with these skills. Whatever tune you are using, it is likely that I can help make it fit better for your driving skills. Don’t be shy about asking for advice.

Tuning Goals
The first thing that I do when I use a new car in Gran Turismo is to think about how I plan to use the tune. I thought about it a bit and came up with four different ways that I use cars in Gran Turismo:

1.) Race online. These tunes are never complete. I will try new things all the time. I will have three or four versions of this car for different tracks. These are the ten or so cars that I love and use most. Still building my list of these in GT6 (Honda S2000 Type V ’03, Mustang Boss 302, Honda Takata Dome NSX '03 and Mazda MX-5 NA and NASCAR are the only ones on the list so far.)

2.) F.I.T.T. tuning competition. I try to wring everything that I can out of these tunes in the time allowed (usually three weeks). I will test between 300 and 1000 miles and change as many settings as I can, looking for a little bit extra for the competition track.

3.) A-spec race to beat the AI. If I do not plan to use the car past getting the awards from an A-spec race or A-spec seasonal, I will only spend ten or fifteen minutes tuning. I am finding that in GT6, I have been de-tuning just to make it any type of challenge. In 600PP A-spec races I am picking cars with 400 to 450PP and using harder tires than the AI. A-spec in GT6 is far too easy in my opinion. I will still add suspension and LSD and tune a little, but I don’t add many parts or spend much time refining the tunes.

4.) Time Trial. On most occasions I will just stop by the time trial long enough to get the gold and gain the credits. I will max out the allowed PP, slap on a base tune, get the gold and out. Every so often, PD will post a time trial with a car that I like. If I am planning to use a car more long term, I will hit that time trial hard.

I encourage you to set goals for the car that you are using. If you are just trying to get by with something temporary, grab a base tune from above (once I finish them) and go get the gold and credits. If it is a car that you plan to use long-term, you will want to read every word of the below tuning guide. Test, find what works for your driving style and ask questions in the garage.

Building A Tune From Scratch
I am just going to lay my approach out there. This is how I work through a tune. I do things in this exact order.

Oil Change – Are you tuning a short term car or a long term car? For a short term car, do not perform an oil change. It robs power at the same PP level. Take any car and note the stock PP and HP levels (example: Scirocco R ‘10 at 438PP/252HP). Next perform an oil change and note the new PP/HP levels (Scirocco @ 445PP/265HP). Finally, use the power limiter to re-establish the car’s original PP level (Scirocco needs 94.5 power limiter to equal 438PP). The new HP rating for the Scirocco is now 250, a 2hp drop from stock (or 0.8% lower horsepower). I have tested this on many cars in GT6 and the average drop is a 1% horsepower loss. If you are using a car for a short period of time, do not perform oil changes. There are more efficient ways to gain power for a PP build. If I were entered into a weekly racing series I might consider purchasing a brand new car for each event and enter without an oil change.

Adding parts – I don’t build very many maxed out tunes. Most of the racing that I do has a set PP level and tire selection so this is how I decide what to add.

Weight
I start with considering the car’s weight. I will admit that I have not done extensive testing in GT6 yet around weight, but so far the theories from GT5 seem to be working. I do not have definitive rules on when to drop weight vs. add power. I would say that my method has much gray area. I try to get into a weight range and then move to power. Weight is always thought about first. When I can get a car into the weight ranges listed below, my lap times are always faster than going only with power. This is what I look for:
- Heavy cars need weight reduction to get them between 1400 and 1450kg
- I prefer average cars that are between 1200 and 1250kg
- Lighter cars in stock form do not always need weight reductions, but 1000kg seems to be the magic number

Power
There are some significant changes to the PP and HP gains in GT6 that are making parts selection much more complicated. In GT5 there were some clear winners (low PP gain vs. high HP gain). In GT5 on almost every car, the first power part that I would add is the racing exhaust. Next were exhaust manifold, intake manifold, air filters and ECU, all being really equal on PP/HP efficiency. The least efficient items in GT5 were the catalytic converter, turbo and supercharger. On almost every car that I tested in GT5, this order was really consistent. Not so in GT6. For comparison, I built ten different cars from FF Ford Focus ST to FR BRZ S’12 to MR NSX R to Honda S2000 to Ford GT to Ferrari FXX to Mustang Boss 302, etc. and every single one had a different list of parts that were most efficient PP/HP. In GT6, racing exhaust no longer won hands down and catalytic converter moves from the junk pile to the most efficient part on most cars.

So how do I choose? Below are two examples of popular cars in the GT series. I have listed all of the weight and power parts and their effect on PP and weight/HP. Note that these are done without oil change for the reasons mentioned earlier in this tuning guide. Most of the columns are self-explanatory. The one that may be confusing is “Gain/PP.” For weight reduction parts I have listed weight loss divided by pp gain. All three stages of weight reduction seem to have the same efficiency value per car (18kg per 1pp for the M3). When you scroll down to the power parts under “Gain/PP,” it gets much more interesting. This formula is horsepower gained divided by PP gained. A higher number is more desirable, more efficient. In the column next to the power part gain/pp I have listed a rank based on this efficiency. Below are results for the M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP and Ford GT ’06 @600PP.

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Choosing Parts and Why - M3 Coupe '07 @ 525PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car is just too heavy. Stage 3 takes it down to 1340kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1325. I will probably add ballast and run this car at 1400kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 3.25 hp per 1 pp.
4. Engine Tuning Stage 3.
5. Semi-Racing Exhaust.
6. Power Limiter 98.2%.
Build is now at 525PP and 491HP.

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Choosing Parts and Why – Ford GT ’06 @ 600PP
1. Window weight reduction and carbon hood. It only cost 1PP for both. I will be adding this to every car I tune in GT6 from here forward.
2. Weight reduction stage 3. This car likes around 1200kg. Stage 3 takes it down to 1204kg and combined with window and carbon hood the car will now be all the way down to 1189. I will add ballast instead of using the power limiter. I want to run this car somewhere between 1200 and 1250kg. Ballast will allow me to play with the front/rear balance during tuning.
3. Sports Catalytic Converter. The winning power part, hands down with 4.25 hp per 1pp.
4. Racing Exhaust at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
5. Isometric Exhaust Manifold at 4.0 hp per 1 pp.
6. Ballast at 24kg.
Build is now at 600pp and 628hp.

Other parts
If you are PP racing, I would always add the Triple-Plate Clutch, Carbon Drive Shaft and Racing Brakes, if available. If I am on a budget and do not plan to use a car long-term, I skip all three of these parts. They provide minimal gains so they are not really worth the money for a sometimes car, but why not take advantage of every little bit if you are racing online or in a time trial.

Chassis stiffness – I am not a fan of. It adds understeer just as it did in GT5. I would use it as a last resort on very difficult MR or RR cars. The Yellow Bird comes to mind. So does the Enzo.

Wings on street cars – I do not add wings to my street car builds. It adds more rear grip and on most cars in the GT series I am trying to do the opposite, gain front grip. In GT5 it also cost PP to add wings so that just robs from the ability to drop weight and add power. Currently in GT6, downforce does not add to PP. I expect PD to change this in the future, but for now, downforce is simply a grip tool. Only add if you need more rear grip. I have read about a programming glitch with wings, but I have not tested for this yet.

Wings on tuner cars – There are many tuner cars that reveal their front grip adjustments when you add a rear wing. I do add the rear wing if it allows for me to adjust the front downforce all the way up and the rear all the way down.

Downforce on race cars – Since adding downforce does not currently add to PP, use as much as you can on race cars for circuit tuning. I will often reduce rear downforce to improve cornering. Also, if I am racing on a circuit with an extremely long straight, I will lower front and rear downforce to around the half-way point. There does seem to be a top speed penalty for max downforce, but it is worth so much in the corners on most circuits.

Downforce on NASCAR at Daytona – I use min/min front/rear for the straight line speed gain.

Flat Floors – I have not had the opportunity to test. I have read that it slows most down in the straights. Too much downforce?

Transmission – You must add all power parts before setting the transmission. I use the flip trick. I like to set it and forget it. Others like Praiano use a similar method but will match the shift points to the engine’s RPM. It is a bit over my head. I should really take some time to have Praiano build a gearbox for one of my tunes so that I can see the difference. A customized transmission is worth more than adding most power upgrades and it doesn’t cost any PP points. The transmission is a must on a car that I plan to use long term. If I am detuning for the A-spec races I will sometimes run the stock gearbox. Also, I like numbers that end in zero or five simply because they look cleaner and they are easier to type into tuning sheets.

Transmission Flip
1.) Final Gear to maximum (all the way right)
2.) Max Speed to minimum (all the way left)
3.) Highest Gear to maximum (all the way right – probably rounded)
4.) 2nd Gear to about 80% left (example: for a range of 1.915 to 2.427 I pick 2.000)
5.) For gears 3rd through highest, make relatively even spacing between gears. I tend to leave a little more space between 2nd, 3rd and 4th than I do between 4th, 5th and 6th. If you look closely at my settings you will see that the gear lines get slightly closer as you move from left to right (1st to 6th).
6.) Set top speed through Final Gear, not Max Speed. Do not touch the Max Speed adjustment at any time past step two. Use the Final Gear setting to achieve just before redline on the longest straight.
7.) Set first gear. If for rolling starts I tend to move this slider to the right and match my even spacing. For standing start racing you will need to test out a few. I have been burned a few times in online racing for having these settings too far left. For standing starts, 1st gear may need to be much further to the right. When you have the launch you are looking for, you will then need to go back and even out all of the gears again.
8.) Further optimize the gearbox for a specific track. You may find that a 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear shift is in a bad spot, mid-corner or right before a braking zone. Re-adjust these gears to optimize for the specific track. For example, if the car wants a 2nd to 3rd gear change just before the exit of a key corner, move the 2nd gear slider to the left and re-adjust the spacing of the other gears. Or, for example, if you are nearing a shorter straight section and find the need to shift from 4th to 5th right before a braking zone, move the 4th gear slider to the left then re-adjust the spacing of the other gears.

Limited Slip Differential - Through my GT6 testing, I am seeing that the LSD works the same as it did in GT5. Here is the description that I wrote in my GT5 garage. This theory is still working very well for me in GT6. Just thought I would share another perspective.

LSD Accel: This setting has one purpose, to manage inside and outside wheel spin. If the inside wheel spins first, raise this setting. If the outside wheel spins first, lower this setting. Most often the tire in need of help will turn red upon throttle application from the corner apex. Sometimes, a car will get loose on you, but neither tire turns red. In this case, put two or three levels harder tires on the car and mash the throttle in the slow, 2nd gear corners and you should be able to find which tire turns red first. Keep adjusting until both drive tires spin at the same time and this setting will be optimized. On a few cars, you will find a situation where one click higher will make the outside tire turn just a little red and one click lower will make the inside tire a little red. On these rare cars, you cannot fully optimize this setting and will need to choose one.In GT6 I am noticing nearly identical settings as I used in GT5 (8 to 20 - never seen a car need higher than this).

LSD Decel: This setting has one purpose, to manage stability under braking, turn-in and when coasting. If your car is loose (oversteer) in these situations, raise this setting. If your car has understeer during these conditions, lower this setting. Nearly all of my under 550PP street car tunes have settings between 5 and 7. On pure race cars like LMP cars, JGTC, FGT, F1, 2J, etc., I run much higher decel settings.In GT6, the setting works the same way, but I am noticing many cars need higher settings than what I used in GT5. For example, on any Miata in GT5 I used a decel setting of 5. I have tested seven Miata in GT6 and they are ranging from 9 to 22 at the moment.

LSD Initial Torque: This setting determines how much power is needed to activate the diff, to make it lock. What this means in GT5 is that a higher number produces more understeer and a lower number produces more oversteer. It is that simple. Since the 2.09 update this characteristic is more pronounced and even more noticeable from apex to exit.

The LSD does not add or subtract acceleration. The LSD cannot send more or less power to the drive train. The LSD can only distribute the given amount of power to each of the drive wheels. I see many on this site confuse the LSD with slipper clutches. This must come from R/C off road racing where slipper clutches are popular. In R/C racing a sipper clutch is added as a bolt on to the drive train and will actually slip as power is applied and grip in the higher revs to keep the rear wheels from spinning. There is still an LSD in those gear boxes and they are not set up to slip. They are set up to do the only job of the LSD, to distribute power from side to side under acceleration and braking. If you set them up to slip, they melt. Same goes for real world, if your LSD slips, it melts. Heat is the #1 enemy of an LSD. This is why we have traction control in the real world and in GT5. Traction control limits power through the drive train to the wheels, not the LSD.

LSD tuning on 4wd – I am not ready to post definitive testing results yet. These are the settings that I ran in GT5. Front 10/12/7 and rear 8/11/8. Much more testing needed here.

Torque-Distributing Center Differential on 4wd – I need to do more testing with this adjustment but this is where I am currently.

On rally tunes for dirt and snow, 50/50 has been the best. I can put the power down best from mid corner to exit with this high front value. Lowering it on dirt/snow can help corner entry and mid corner rotation, but the loss of exit speed kills the lap time. You will have to find other ways to improve corner entry for 4wd cars.

On tarmac tunes – I start out at 50/50 and try to other tuning adjustments first. If I cannot get the car to enter the corner and rotate, I begin to lower the torque split. I don’t like to go below 35/65 as the car begins to handle much more like a FR drive train. What you lose is that aggressive 4wd jump from mid corner to exit. I cannot find a hard, fast rule for this setting so it becomes a bit of trial and error.

Suspension Tuning Introduction

If you started at the top of this tuning guide and did every step up to here, you might be totally satisfied with your tuning improvements and choose to go no further. For GT6, the driving physics have improved so much that every car is more fun to drive than its GT5 version. Much speed improvement and balance improvement can come from the items listed above. Some will be content to add the Fully Customizable Suspension and just use the stock settings. You can do that and still be fast. Everything from here down could be seen as fine tuning.

So let’s talk tuning. Tuning is complicated. In the real world, there are general understandings of what settings can do, but some things work on some chassis and others just do no. I think we have set a pretty high expectation for GT6. We start to develop a basic understanding of what settings generally do and then we jump in a car that bends or breaks all of the rules. What happens next, we start believing in backward settings.


For me to develop my understanding of the GT6 physics, I needed to go back to my real world roots. I re-read my two favorite tuning books, Caroll Smith’s Tune to Win and Don Alexander’s High-Performance Handling Handbook. Five years ago when I race a Honda Civic, we had adjustable shocks. When I transitioned to Spec Miata, we have non-adjustable, sealed Bilstein shocks so the unutilized knowledge began to fade from memory. Once I reconnected with this past knowledge, tuning in GT6 started to make more sense. With a better understanding of real world theory, I would at least know where to start in GT6. It has been a complete guessing game and trial and error for me in GT6 up to this point.

I have been working on a different way to think about tuning in GT6. It involves really focusing in on the problem to solve, then making a list of the possible options at play. It is one thing to know generally that lighter front springs and heavier rear springs can mean less understeer, but to know when to try that vs. other options available is the real key to my new system.

Below I will outline three different levels of detail. I know that some will visit this guide just for some quick understanding of things and others will read every word, make notes and test for themselves.
1. Basic functions of the settings
2. Added detail behind each function
3. Tune problem solving

Basic Functions of the Fully Customizable Suspension

Ride Height (in-game description)
- A lower front end will encourage oversteer (false)
- A higher front end will increase understeer (false)

The in-game description is incorrect. A higher front and lower rear will encourage more cornering ability.

Spring Rate
- Low front rate/high rear rate will encourage oversteer
- High front rate/low rear rate will increase understeer
- Higher spring rates help reduce pitch and roll, and turn more sharply
- Higher grip tires can handle higher spring rates

Dampers
- Shocks can be used to fine-tune the handling balance of a racecar during transitions, but will not cure a big handling problem
- Should normally be set relative to spring rate (similar distance across slider)
- Extension should generally be set stiffer than compression
- Damper tuning is complex and will be covered in more detail in the section below

Anti-Roll Bars
- Affects lateral rolling movement, not longitudinal pitching movement
- Generally, ARBs need to strike a balance with spring rate, like using soft springs with stiff bars or vice versa
- Stiffer ARBs can transition a small amount of weight from outside tire to inside tire
- Softer ARBs can be useful on bumpy tracks to keep both inside and outside tires more
connected to the track
- Low front rate/high rear rate will encourage oversteer
- High front rate/low rear rate will increase understeer

Camber Angle (-)
- Zero camber is currently fastest in GT6 (1.04 update)
- Adding camber to the front will increase understeer
- Adding camber to the rear will increase oversteer

Toe Angle
- Front toe-in will increase entry turn in, but also reduces mid-corner to exit grip
- Front toe-out will increase mid-corner to exit grip, but also reduces entry turn in
- Rear toe-in will increase understeer
- Rear toe-out will increase oversteer
- Rear toe settings seem stronger, meaning lower increments of movement tend to produce
stronger results than higher increments of movement to front settings

Brake Balance
- Low number equals less braking power, high number equals more braking power
- ABS1 allows for higher settings than using ABS0
- Lock up can occur at lower numbers when using harder tires
- Higher numbers can be used with softer tires as lock up is more difficult to induce
- Higher front than rear will increase stability during trail braking
- Lower front than rear will induce oversteer or turn in during trail braking

Downforce
- Low front rate/high rear rate will encourage understeer
- High front rate/low rear rate will increase oversteer
- Higher downforce will reduce top speed

Ballast
- First, view car in chase view to determine whether red tire is overloaded beyond its grip limit
or is sliding
- For sliding front tires, move ballast forward (negative number), which adds weight to the
front tires and encourages more grip
- For overloaded front tires, move ballast back (positive number), which removes weight from
the front tires, returning them to be within their grip limit
- For sliding rear tires, move ballast back (positive number), which adds weight to the rear
tires and encourages more grip
- For overloaded front tires, move ballast forward (negative number), which removes weight
from the rear tires, returning them to be within their grip limit


Added Detail and Testing of the Fully Customizable Suspension

Ride Height - Do not go too low on ride height. I have been playing with ride height a bit. I need to do more wide split testing, but for most tracks, slammed at either end seems to be bad. I have been tuning Muscle Cars lately. I started at the stock height and just started to lower the rear. Rear stability picked up through most of the turn. I kept adding until I had the balance that I wanted (about ten points apart) so then I started dropping the car by five at both ends. There is a point where the rear got too low and I could immediately sense the loss of grip and a snap oversteer situation. I think that is the point where bottoming out is occurring, though not visible in the replay, so maybe there is another situation. The in-game description mentions that when lowering the car we need to add spring rate to make up for the shorter suspension travel. I think that lowering the car in GT6 also shortens the shock travel. This would take away up travel (i.e., hit a bump and the shock compresses, then on extension the tire stops before the chassis does). This condition would remove the tire from the road or at least unload it and reduce grip. So it may work to encourage rotation. Slam the rear of a car super low, drastically shorten the shock throw, stiffen the spring and lose a ton of up travel. That would cause a wheel to unload, especially the inside rear. Do not go too low on ride height.

My latest testing in game version 1.05 and 1.06 has shown that higher front and lower rear provides more cornering ability. Max/min seems to be too much so you are going to have to find a sweet spot for each tune. Not all cars need to use this ride height glitch, but many are helped to turn better with a higher front than rear.

Spring Rate- Seems to work similar to real world, but has its limits. What I mean by limits is that if I were to build a Honda Civic with super soft front springs and super hard rear springs, the car would be un-drivable - it would spin in every corner. In GT6, it may still understeer.

Inconclusive results so far on how high to push spring rates. I have found success staying near stock settings when on Comfort Soft and Sort Hard tires. I have done limited testing with higher rates on say Racing Soft tires. I plan to do much more testing with this concept around higher spring rates.

Dampers Compression & Extension - Shocks can be used to fine-tune the handling balance of a racecar during transitions, but will not cure a big handling problem. If changes to dampers seem to produce very little results, there may be something else wrong with your tune. Go back to some of the mechanical settings first, then come back to dampers.

In general, rebound damping controls how fast weight leaves a tire, while bump controls how fast weight goes onto a tire. You can see in the drawings below that the top graphic shows a non-optimized shock, while the bottom picture indicates a properly dampened shock.

12166317754_61bf2713e4.jpg


The true magic of tuning damper settings is in controlling weight transfer throughout the corner. By manipulating weight transfer, handling can be changed slightly. When a tire turns red in GT6, it means one of two things. Either that tire is overloaded beyond its available grip level or it is sliding or skimming across the pavement. The first thing that I look for is to view the car in chase view to determine which condition may be causing the red tire. For example, if my outside front tire is turning red during mid-speed sweeping corners and the weight seems to be leaning more rearward, the car needs more weight pushed onto the front tires. Another example involves a red outside front tire in a slower, 180 degree corner where the car’s weight seems to be leaning forward, over the front axles. In this case, the front tire is being pushed beyond its grip limit and less weight needs to transfer to the nose of the car. Dampers can be used to help solve these two tuning problems and more. I share much more detail on dampers in the Tune Problem Solving section below.

Anti-Roll Bars - I must admit that I need to do more testing around ARBs. I have been using settings near the stock settings of 3/3 and just adjusting a split to induce oversteer or understeer. That has been working very well, but I wonder if there is even more speed to be found. I have not tested heavy springs with soft bars or soft springs with heavy bars.

Camber Angle - Camber in GT6 has been programmed oddly. Zero camber currently has the most grip. I start with zero front and zero rear. I try to use every other tuning tool available, but if I cannot get a car to rotate, I add rear camber. If I cannot get the rear to stay planted, I add front camber.

Toe Angle - I tend to set rear toe first. Rear toe seems to have a stronger effect and front seems to be more of a fine tune. On most FR, MR and RR cars I will generally have between 0.05 and 0.25 positive toe. Some rare cars, like American Muscle, will need negative rear toe. FF and 4WD cars almost always need negative rear toe and I generally set between -0.05 and -0.35. I am looking for a good rotation around the apex of the corner. A lower number produces more rotation and a higher number provides more stability.

Then I move on to front toe. Front toe is simply used to balance the corner, to gain a similar level of turning ability at entry, through the middle and out to corner exit. Positive front toe provides more turn-in ability and negative front toe produces more front grip from mid-corner through corner exit.

Brake Balance - I use ABS1. I also use the NIXIM brake pedal mod on my G27 pedals. It provides three levels of feel; soft at first, medium pressure through the middle and finally hard pressure at the bottom. If you are still using the stock brake spring on a G25 or G27, the NIXIM is worth every penny.

I try to set the overall levels first; 5/5 or 4/4 or 3/3, etc. On comfort soft tires I am noticing settings between 2/2 and 4/4. With sport hard tires I use 3/3 to 5/5. With sport soft tire and higher, settings can be between 5/5 and 7/7 or 8/8. I pick the number set using three inputs. First is by turning up the TV volume and listening for tire squeal or lock up under hard braking. For rally cars on dirt, PD did not program tire squeal. Rather, they programmed the engine noise to stop completely as an indication that the tires are locked up. Second is by watching for red tires in the tire indicators. Third is by noticing how deep my foot is into the brake pedal. If I can barely get on the brakes and lock up occurs, I lower both numbers. If I am fully deep into the pedal I will raise brake balance.

Next I set the front/rear split. Not all cars need a split. The challenge to setting this split is that PD has not given us very good indicators in GT6. A wheel turns red and we do not know if the wheel is red due to being overloaded or under loaded. Thus the trial and error nature of the game and the tendency for people to think settings are programmed backward. I will change to chase view to better see the car’s weight transition. Generally, if the car is loose under braking, the rear brake balance is too high. Most often with this condition there are no red tires present, just the noticeable over rotation during trail braking. As for red tires on the front during braking, the red indicator can be notifying us of one of two conditions. Front condition one - overloaded front tires. For this, lower front brake balance and/or raise rear. Front condition two – sliding front tires. For this condition, the front tires need more weight on them so raise front brake balance and/or lower rear.

Downforce - I play GT6 to road race. I do not drag race, nor do I do top speed runs. Someone else can test that. What I am more concerned with is the fastest corner speed possible. Corner speed wins road races. I do not add downforce to street cars on street tires. I try to use mechanical grip first. Plus, most street cars in GT6 understeer. I will almost always use max front downforce on race cars. I will use max rear downforce if I can get the car to mechanically turn well. If not, I reduce rear downforce until I find a desirable amount of corner rotation.

Ballast - I am not really sure why some tuners think that using ballast is cheating. I received a PM from a fellow tuner saying that none of my tunes were worth anything because I used ballast. I think that is such a short sided view. PD programmed it in the game, we use it in real life and it really, really works well in GT6. So why would I want to avoid using it… to go slower?


Tune Problem Solving
See this section in post #11 or click the link below.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/motor-city-tunes-gt6.291066/#post-9020421

I just want to say thank you for your Awesome Tuning Guide Keith....This is my first time at tuning from scratch...before i just use to tweak Shaun's and Praiano's Wicked tunes for Seasonal's to my own driving capabilities and for the track in that Seasonal.

But this is a totally different ball game and so confusing at first...Shaun put me in the right direction about what to do for a base tune and then i read your Guide and Wow there is so much to take into consideration with it all....But after reading your guide it starts to fall into place a bit and i know it's going to be a long road for me to create tunes from scratch...but just from looking at your Guide while i'm tuning it really is a godsend to have this information at hand and thank you again...i've just managed to get 500th of a second off my best lap time in my Focus ST '06 tune just by changing Rear Toe angle to Negetive instead of positive and LSD Settings from what you put in your guide....So i take my hat off to you....:bowdown:

Cheers and all the Best

Phil
 
1,443
Cyprus
Girne- North Cyprus
BADGER-UK-66
Tune Problem Solving

PD did not give us many tools to diagnose tuning problems. When a tire turns red in GT6, it means one of two things. Either that tire is overloaded beyond its available grip level or it is sliding or skimming across the pavement. The first thing that I do is to view the car in chase view to determine which condition may be causing the red tire. For example, if my outside front tire is turning red during mid-speed sweeping corners and the weight seems to be leaning more rearward, the car needs more weight pushed onto the front tires. Another example involves a red outside front tire in a slower, 180 degree corner where the car’s weight seems to be leaning forward, over the front axles. In this case, the front tire is being pushed beyond its grip limit and less weight needs to transfer to the nose of the car.

Below is what I have come up with to help me think through what a car is doing at given points in a corner. I have written a few scenarios under each photo and a few hypotheses. This is early work and should be considered still under testing. For anyone looking for how to get more involved in this discussion, feel free to try some of the suggestions from below and report back the results that you achieved. I expect this section of the tuning garage to evolve over time as I have more in-game seat time and as others offer their test results to the conversation.

Here is a graphic indicating a car at rest or in a coasting position. The springs are at their ride height position and the dampers are not moving. This is chassis neutral.

12118245866_038c353b06.jpg

Shock absorbers do nothing in this vehicle state. The four circles in these diagrams are meant to represent the tire contact patch. You will notice below that I have indicated weight transfer by making the tire contact patch grow as well as the color darkens in the following drawings. A large, black colored circle is meant to indicate maximum load from weight transfer. A small, light gray colored circle is meant to indicate minimum load.

12117987794_7132dbaf4f.jpg


I find it useful to think about how weight transfers around the car at different stages of a corner, as shown above. Below are a few handling scenarios and some suggested tuning adjustments to improve the car in that situation. Remember that tuning is full of trade offs so an adjustment to help corner entry may be offset with a negative result for corner exit.


12117587755_a335481f8c.jpg



12117987564_77226c9dab.jpg



GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Glowing red front tires under braking

Options: Reduce rear shock extension (lower number) and/or reduce front shock compression (lower number). This should speed up the transfer of weight to the front wheels and provide more front grip under braking. This can be effective to shorten braking distances, up to the point of maximum front tire grip. A second option is to reduce front brake balance or increase rear brake balance. A third option is to reduce LSD decel.

Condition 2: Loose condition under braking

Options: Increase rear shock extension (higher number) or increase front shock compression (higher number). This should slow down the transfer of weight to the front wheels and hold rear wheel grip longer into the braking zone. This can be effective to shorten braking distances, up to the point of maximum rear tire grip. A second option is to increase front brake balance or reduce rear brake balance. A third option is to increase LSD decel.


12117878863_5d96380762.jpg


Late corner entry can be difficult to diagnose while driving in GT6. You may need to watch a replay instead of trying to see what the tire indicators are doing while on a hot lap. There is one condition that I see most often in GT6 at this point in the turn; a red, outside front tire.

GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to low speed corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire is overloaded and past its maximum available grip. To fix this condition, test increasing front compression and increasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 2: Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to high speed corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire does not have enough weight on it and it is just sliding across the pavement. To fix this condition, test decreasing front compression and decreasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.


12117587805_b029881975.jpg



Mid-corner issues can be difficult to diagnose. Many times the mid-corner problem is actually starting at late corner entry. If trying to diagnose while driving on a hot lap, it can be difficult to see when the problem tire begins to turn yellow, then red. Watching a replay can help to make this determination. I tend to see a few conditions appear in GT6.

GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Understeer or glowing red outside front tire while off throttle through mid-corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire is overloaded and past its maximum available grip. To fix this condition, test increasing front compression and increasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 2: Understeer or glowing red outside front tire while coming back to throttle at or before the mid-corner apex

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire does not have enough weight on it and it is just sliding across the pavement. To fix this condition, test decreasing front compression and decreasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.

Condition 3: Oversteer or glowing red outside rear tire while off throttle through mid-corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the outside rear tire does not have enough weight on it. To fix this condition, test decreasing front extension and decreasing rear compression. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 4: Oversteer or glowing red outside rear tire while on throttle through mid-corner or both rear tires turning red through mid-corner

Options: The first thing that needs to be checked is LSD Accel. If the outside rear tire turns red when getting back to throttle, lower the LSD Accel number, then adjust the dampers. Hypothesis is that the outside rear tire is beyond its grip limit and weight must be transferred forward. To fix this condition, test increasing front extension and increasing rear compression. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.


12117689105_9d04d605ac.jpg


Very similar to mid-corner… still working through thinking on this corner sector. Just running out of time to type tonight.

Hi Keith...i know your'e a very busy man....so i won't keep you..i have a quick question...I'm tuning a FR car and i'm having problems from mid corner to exit so i think my answer should be in the The Apex to exit section... i'm getting a orange to red Rear inside tire when hitting the gas to get full throttle control to get to exit....Do you have any thoughts to what this could be....please..:)

Thanks for your time

Phil

:cheers:
 
1,337
United States
Wisconsin
DaBomm4
DaBomm16
Hi Keith...i know your'e a very busy man....so i won't keep you..i have a quick question...I'm tuning a FR car and i'm having problems from mid corner to exit so i think my answer should be in the The Apex to exit section... i'm getting a orange to red Rear inside tire when hitting the gas to get full throttle control to get to exit....Do you have any thoughts to what this could be....please..:)

Thanks for your time

Phil

:cheers:
One question to clarify, do you get understeer or oversteer during this time?

From my experience, a red inside rear tire means that your LSD accel is set too low.
 
1,443
Cyprus
Girne- North Cyprus
BADGER-UK-66
One question to clarify, do you get understeer or oversteer during this time?

From my experience, a red inside rear tire means that your LSD accel is set too low.

Thanks for the prompt reply...I had to much weight to the rear of car and it made it too stiff for any throttle control so i changed weight distribution and added more weight to the front of the car and now the back is loose and i have my throttle control now...but getting the orange if i apply half throttle and red if full throttle...but the car is handling much better now....sorry to rant...but i thought it would help if i told you how this happened....So the answer is manageable oversteer...👍


:cheers:
 
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