I think I'm happy with my setup, I will get my dad to help me look through on Friday maybe, then buy it soon after. I have a question...
Since my mouse and keyboard both connect via USB, does this mean that I can't connect a USB stick without removing either one? I think the case had 2 ports, not sure on that though.
So, if I buy all those parts, build it, connect my GPU to my TV, then connect my mouse and keyboard, and go through windows setup, I should be fine? I don't need anything else right?
Yeah, the motherboard has numerous connectors for the case, such as front panel audio connectors, USB ports, the power and reset buttons, status LEDs and... That's it, I think. There are also ports on the motherboard itself.
It's the other way around. The motherboard has ports for such things as USB(At the bottom of the motherboard) and the case comes with the cables to make use of features in the front panel I/O.
It's the other way around. The motherboard has ports for such things as USB(At the bottom of the motherboard) and the case comes with the cables to make use of features in the front panel I/O.
Yes but I've looked through your list and your current motherboard can only support DDR3-1333 while your ram is DDR3-1600. I would recommend upgrading to this motherboard so you will maximize performance. Many mid-end GPU's fit in it quite easily(Though to note that the Cooler Master 212 in that picture is a tad too tall for the case).
I'm sure it will fit in the case just fine. On another note, the MSI 760GM-P34(FX) motherboard you have chosen doesn't seem to have an USB 3.0 connector for the front panel USB 3.0 port on the Core 1000 (neither did the motherboard I chose ). I can't find any other issues from that setup.
Basic precautions would be not working an a carpet, not wearing any wool clothing and making sure there aren't any hairy pets wandering around while building, static electricity being the thing to look out for. Electronic components might not appreciate it.
But you shouldn't need to buy an anti-static wristband or an anti-static mat, I think they're a bit over the top for just building a computer at home, but it doesn't hurt to have and use them.
Oh and no, the PSU doesn't need to be plugged in while building.
Ok. I changed my build- I replaced the FX4130 for a FX6300, as it has more cores (should be better for big games) and has overclocking potential which I might look at in the future. I also swapped out the 7770 for the 7790, as it is better in general and I want to use all the money I have.
I changed my mind about using a TV as my monitor, it's too big. We have a 1680x1050 monitor (21.5 inches) from 2007. Should I use that, or buy a Hannspree HE225DPB for around £85?
I changed my mind about using a TV as my monitor, it's too big. We have a 1680x1050 monitor (21.5 inches) from 2007. Should I use that, or buy a Hannspree HE225DPB for around £85?
Well that depends on a few things; is the monitor any good for gaming (does it leave trails of moving objects all over the place)? Does the backlight still work? I use three Samsung 226BW 21.5" 1680x1050 monitors from around 2008 or 9 and they're pretty good in absolute terms, but they would compare very poorly with a modern monitor in many ways (my 24 inch 1920x1200 monitor uses half the power). But you can't argue with cheap, so it's a compromise I'm ok with making for now. I did need to replace the capacitors in one of them though because of age and the 'capacitor plague'.
Well that depends on a few things; is the monitor any good for gaming (does it leave trails of moving objects all over the place)? Does the backlight still work? I use three Samsung 226BW 21.5" 1680x1050 monitors from around 2008 or 9 and they're pretty good in absolute terms, but they would compare very poorly with a modern monitor in many ways (my 24 inch 1920x1200 monitor uses half the power). But you can't argue with cheap, so it's a compromise I'm ok with making for now. I did need to replace the capacitors in one of them though because of age and the 'capacitor plague'.
I don't know any of that... I'm guessing it works fine, I think it was an AOC L20W, but I can't find that online for some reason. Would it be worth starting off with that, then upgrading to 1080p in a few months? I don't think I've ever used a 1080p monitor, some of the monitors at school looked pretty new so I guess they were. Also, I don't really understand resolutions. Would 1680x1050 be better than my laptop's 1366x768?
I don't know any of that... I'm guessing it works fine, I think it was an AOC L20W, but I can't find that online for some reason. Would it be worth starting off with that, then upgrading to 1080p in a few months? I don't think I've ever used a 1080p monitor, some of the monitors at school looked pretty new so I guess they were. Also, I don't really understand resolutions. Would 1680x1050 be better than my laptop's 1366x768?
There are a huge number of specifications for a monitor that decide how good they are, but really it comes down to your perception, if you can't tell the difference between 720p and 1080p, 60Hz or 120Hz, 2ms response or 5ms then you're not going to want to buy a 120Hz 1080p monitor with 2ms response at three times the price.
Generally, the higher the resolution you have, the better. But, and this is quite a relevant point, you need to have graphical hardware that can drive the resolution; a cheap graphics card will struggle at higher resolutions. Given that you don't know if you've seen a 1080p image before I don't think you'll be sensitive to relatively low resolutions, it's kind of one of those things where once you experience it, anything less just isn't good enough... Well, that's how it works for some, and that's why super high end hardware exists.
In short, try whatever is free or cheapest first, if you're happy with it then stick with it, if not then see what you can do about it.
We managed to test out the monitor by connecting it with my laptop as a second display. It was a bit blurry on the home screen- is this representative of its quality if I connected it to the actual PC? If it doesn't work out, there's a 32 inch tv I can borrow, and I can sell some stuff for £130 to get something good.
Budget increased to £610... lol.
I'm DEFINITELY getting the HD 7950. Its clock speed is 830mhz, compared to the 1GHZ of the 7790. Will it still be better? Also, is it possible to safely overclock it with the stock fan?
Sorry for the triple post, but...
My build is in its final stage, can anyone spot any problems at all with it? I'm worried something will go wrong...
As far as overclocking, it's all pretty safe if you take it slow and watch for artifacts and know when to back it down. With that said, initial overclock is largely dependent on cooling. You can get some with stock air cooling. Replacing the thermal compound can help some as well. Once you reach thermal limits on stock cooling then you can start looking at aftermarket cooling solutions. Once you get your thermals under control, then you will start to run out of voltage required for the higher clock speeds so you have to increase voltages which causes more heat and the process starts over again. Eventually you will be capped out even if thermals are under control. Seems each chip is a gamble to how well it will or won't overclock. In summary, yes you can safely overclock your card on stock air, but don't expect stellar results.
Cool. My build is done, for sure this time, as long as I still get a monitor. It looks like pretty good value-there's no point getting a good gaming PC if them monitor is rubbish. Just found out it only supports VGA! Sacrificing the 8 core AMD for a 6 core won't make a big difference hopefully, and if it does I can overclock in the future. I chose a really good graphics card which will make the most difference.
Changed it again, damn it. The 7950 I chose was only available at Scan. I think it was an older version of their current model of the 7950- it has 1 fan instead of two, and hasn't got as good reviews. I've chosen a 7870 instead, which has 2 fans and is not dramatically worse than the 7950. It also has better reviews, is cheaper, and seems more trustworthy. The only problem is, you're meant to receive free game codes with the purchase, but only CCL seems to list this. Should I get the codes in the box from all sites anyway?
Edit: Found a GTX670 by MSI for an absolute bargain at Scan, which seems to be fine. Might go with that, still researching.
Yeah, not sure on the game bundles. Have to check with the part number to be sure. Not sure in the ATI lineup if all game bundles are mfg wide, endorsed by ATI or if they are only on specific mfg's. Might inquire with the supplier first.
The 670 comes with splinter cell blacklist, but to be honest I'm fine with buying games myself. Can anyone tell me if the GPU I have chosen is ok? MSI seems to have a power edition of the GTX 670, but this version is a bargain. Same with the HD 7950, would that be ok too? The prices seem to good to be true, but maybe it's because people are more attracted towards their newer versions.
The 670 is a decent card for sure! It's all reference.
According to these guys, the majority would say to go with the 7950 for better bang for the buck. I'm hard core nVidia now so......, my decision would be a little swayed toward the green instead of the red. Check prices and benches on the GTX760 also. Might be surprised to find some good performance and a decent price.
). I can't find any other issues from that setup.
