New TGT behaving oddly

  • Thread starter Enoch Root
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Enoch Root

9
New Zealand
New Zealand
Xanomead@gmail.c
I just got myself a TGT and racing cockpit. If I turn on the PS4 with the wheel connected to the USB port and start GT Sport after a few seconds of driving the game pauses and the wheel starts moving left and right by itself, if I hold it it'll then stop moving and the buttons don't respond not even the PS button.

I've discovered if I don't connect the wheel before the PS4 has booted up and connect it before starting GT Sport, it seems (for the moment) to behave and I can actually use it.

But surely this is not usual behavior? I have updated the firmware, thinking perhaps it was an electrical short caused by the bolts and metal frame I've tried to insulate the bolts but that didn't seem to help, I'm also using fairly short screws (16mm I think) so nothing internal should be in contact with the screws.

I'm wondering if I should send this back, which is a huge disappointment.
 
Enoch Root
I just got myself a TGT and racing cockpit. If I turn on the PS4 with the wheel connected to the USB port and start GT Sport after a few seconds of driving the game pauses and the wheel starts moving left and right by itself, if I hold it it'll then stop moving and the buttons don't respond not even the PS button.

I've discovered if I don't connect the wheel before the PS4 has booted up and connect it before starting GT Sport, it seems (for the moment) to behave and I can actually use it.

But surely this is not usual behavior? I have updated the firmware, thinking perhaps it was an electrical short caused by the bolts and metal frame I've tried to insulate the bolts but that didn't seem to help, I'm also using fairly short screws (16mm I think) so nothing internal should be in contact with the screws.

I'm wondering if I should send this back, which is a huge disappointment.
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Check to make sure you have all the plugs in properly and that your wheel is on properly. It sounds like something is loose.

Always make sure you have your wheel turned on and plugged into USB port 1 before you start the PS 4 (I use the touch panel on the front of the PS 4 to start it). The wheel should calibrate at this point. Press the PS button on the wheel to select it as the controller. It should all work fine from there.

If you still have issues check that you updated the firmware correctly (using a USB 2 port) and contact Thrustmaster.

Ps. I'm not sure would I tell them any of this:
if I hold it it'll then stop moving and the buttons don't respond not even the PS button.

I've discovered if I don't connect the wheel before the PS4 has booted up and connect it before starting GT Sport, it seems (for the moment) to behave and I can actually use it.
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It expressly says in the manual not to do this.
 
If the wheel loses power or the signal from the playstation, it will go into Pause mode, when the power/signal returns it does its calibration again - which is when the wheel goes full left lock/full right lock. I've just checked this by unplugging the power cable, and USB from my TGT. So it sounds to me like perhaps you need to make sure all connections are secure and not loose at all (including to the 'turbo' power supply).

If it's power, you won't see any onscreen messages. If the USB becomes dislodged, mine will tell me on screen that the wheels disconnected.

Also, when the wheel moves left and right on its own, let it. If you stop it from turning the PS button won't work, which you need to press to get the console to register the wheel again.
 
@Enoch Root I'm using a TGT too and I always connect it after having turned on the PS4. When I'm done racing I disconnect the TGT and engage sleep mode/turn off the PS4. I do this to avoid multiple wheel calibration cycles and to make sure the wheel is turned fully off - there's an electronic switch inside the wheel-base that turns the power supply on when it senses positive voltage on the USB connection (which, depending on your PS4 power settings, is possible even if the PS4 is sleeping.)
 
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Skinny McLean
@Enoch Root I'm using a TGT too and I always connect it after having turned on the PS4. When I'm done racing I disconnect the TGT and engage sleep mode/turn off the PS4. I do this to avoid multiple wheel calibration cycles and to make sure the wheel is turned fully off - there's an electronic switch inside the wheel-base that turns the power supply on when it senses positive voltage on the USB connection (which, depending on your PS4 power settings, is possible even if the PS4 is sleeping.)
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Your issues with calibration are more than likely due to having Rest Mode on. I wouldn't advise this, and certainly not to someone with a wheel that's still under warranty. From the Thrustmaster Technical Support site in the FAQ's: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-gt-en/

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I am pretty certain there are no loose connections as I've pulled them out and reconnected multiple times. I have a PS4 Pro with an external 3TB drive connected to the rear USB 3.1 port, that has it's own power supply. I could try moving the GT Sport data to my internal SSD, disconnect the HDD and see if that makes any difference, but it shouldn't. I have someone bringing their PS4 around on Saturday to test on that which will help eliminate my PS4 as the potential culprit.

The wheel neither disconnects or loses power. It starts just rapidly moving side to side about 90° and won't stop.

If as I said I connect the wheel after booting up the PS4 but before starting GTS it seems to be okay. But as someone pointed out the manual says to connect everything before turning on the PS4. I'm also not using Rest mode as I know that has a habit of causing odd issues.
 
Enoch Root
I am pretty certain there are no loose connections as I've pulled them out and reconnected multiple times. I have a PS4 Pro with an external 3TB drive connected to the rear USB 3.1 port, that has it's own power supply. I could try moving the GT Sport data to my internal SSD, disconnect the HDD and see if that makes any difference, but it shouldn't. I have someone bringing their PS4 around on Saturday to test on that which will help eliminate my PS4 as the potential culprit.

The wheel neither disconnects or loses power. It starts just rapidly moving side to side about 90° and won't stop.

If as I said I connect the wheel after booting up the PS4 but before starting GTS it seems to be okay. But as someone pointed out the manual says to connect everything before turning on the PS4. I'm also not using Rest mode as I know that has a habit of causing odd issues.
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Something its happening for sure i have tgt and now i race daily B 4 races ok and than softer wheel and no grip ‍♂️
 
@FPV MIC Thank you for the heads up, I am aware of that warning, and I am not having that kind of calibration issues, and it doesn't seem to matter to GT Sport whether I use sleep mode or not - the pedals gets calibrated after I connect the wheel base, after all.
The calibration cycles I was talking about is the wheel's self-calibration procedure (i.e. its slamming back and forth routine) whenever the PS4 goes to sleep/wakes up - i prefer to do as I mentioned earlier - that way the wheel base is definitely not on when the PS4 is sleeping.

And I always connect the wheel base before entering the game.
 
Skinny McLean
@FPV MIC Thank you for the heads up, I am aware of that warning, and I am not having that kind of calibration issues, and it doesn't seem to matter to GT Sport whether I use sleep mode or not - the pedals gets calibrated after I connect the wheel base, after all.
The calibration cycles I was talking about is the wheel's self-calibration procedure (i.e. its slamming back and forth routine) whenever the PS4 goes to sleep/wakes up - i prefer to do as I mentioned earlier - that way the wheel base is definitely not on when the PS4 is sleeping.

And I always connect the wheel base before entering the game.
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What ffb settings do you use?
 
I'd be tempted to send it back. You shouldn't be getting any issues if it's brand new, and by the sounds of it, it's not even calibrating properly anyway. It's an expensive bit of kit... it should work!
 
One thing I can say never hold onto your wheel when power up its can break the unit.
Make sure your firm ware is up-to-date.
If it is try redoing it again sometime it get screwed up & needs redoing.
Make sure all leads are fully in.

Glad to see one more person using cockpit view.
 
Here's my wheel doing it's thing, it does this perhaps 8 out of ten times. Once it starts working properly it seems to keep working, but it's often doing this.



I read this article a while ago which speculated about a potentially faulty batch made for Japan, my wheel though is made for the mainland Chinese market where I'm currently living. https://www.gtplanet.net/thrustmaster-apologizes-world-tour-absence/
 
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dejkoo
My tgt works exactly the same .. I only had it 1 month and bought a new one
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Looks like normal wheel oscillations to me, induced by you turning and then letting go of the wheel - the wheel's control system is designed with the expectation that the user keeps his/her hands on the wheel at all times, acting as a sort of damper. The wheel would feel heavier/sluggisher if it was damped to the point that oscillations was impossible - it's just another example of trade-offs in system control engineering. The phenonemon is related to the feedback squeels you'll hear when a microphone is placed too close to a loudspeaker or the amplifier is turned up too much.

Regarding what ffb settings I use: 6/8
 
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Yeah, that's what I thought of his video, he sets off the oscillations. His may still have had a fault though. My wheel pauses the game suddenly and then starts oscillating while tilted 90° anticlockwise. You can see in my video the game is paused (which happened automatically). It shouldn't be swinging back and forth like that.

I can get it to work, but it's usually a process of disconnecting the usb cable multiple times and restarting GT Sport until it finally starts to behave. I'm not even sure if my actions are having an effect or if it's perhaps something inside the wheel needing time to warm up, after which it starts to behave.
 
@Enoch Root: Sounds like your wheel is defective - my wheel does not behave that way. Spurious button activations can be caused by a bad connection between rim and base, but that shouldn’t make the wheel oscillate afaik.

Edited to clarify whom I was addressing.
 
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dejkoo
My tgt works exactly the same .. I only had it 1 month and bought a new one
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This is the result of setting ffb strenght to high. Its not a damaged wheel. It is called oscillation. Caused if the user set forces to high. Dont set ingame ffb strenght higher than 3/10 and sensivity to 1/10
 
Zipperface
This is the result of setting ffb strenght to high. Its not a damaged wheel. It is called oscillation. Caused if the user set forces to high. Dont set ingame ffb strenght higher than 3/10 and sensivity to 1/10
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No it's not, it's the result of letting go of the wheel - and if you like your ffb that light you wont need anything beyond a T150 or G29.
 
Skinny McLean
No it's not, it's the result of letting go of the wheel - and if you like your ffb that light you wont need anything beyond a T150 or G29.
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I have G29 T300 and TGT... Tgt is not worth that money. For 600€ must working on 10/10 all night. I'm very disappointed. I was really think that is good wheel but not alot batter than T300
 
If you think a fanatech csl is much better you'll be disappointed, it uses old optical encoder tech (like ancient computer mice) to sense steering input. It's very sensitive to dust and debris - if you go for fanatech don't go below a csw 2.5.

And my tgt have been working '10/10' for 20 months, btw.
 
Skinny McLean
If you think a fanatech csl is much better you'll be disappointed, it uses old optical encoder tech (like ancient computer mice) to sense steering input. It's very sensitive to dust and debris - if you go for fanatech don't go below a csw 2.5.
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Thanks i will think
 

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