POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

I have 5 dead t300 in less than a year. The last one in back to the store (9 weeks old).

I ordered a csl elite F1 for my son, received it today, but its 5-10 degree of center. (t150 was the best wheel no problems in 1.5 year).

 

Wow, you have had some bad luck with wheels! Very poor that the CSL looks to be faulty as well!

 

It's not bad luck. T300 are just pure garbage.

I had 4 t300. All faulty from the box except one that lasted 5 days.
Garbage.

I then got a t150 pro.
Rock solid.

 

So, I bought a T300RS 599XX EVO 30 package about 2 years ago...yesterday it started doing like in this video. I live in Belize, and it is hot & humid here, but I literally use this wheel an average of about 3 hours a month... Has anyone figured out how to fix this?

 

When mine did that, TM replaced it it under warranty.

 

First of all dont ypu let the wheel do that again. If you break the internal axis it's beyond repair.
This is probably due to overheating that caused one of the following problems :
1.broke hall sensor mount (replaceable with a 3d printed part
2. Motor core got loose. (fixable if you can open the motor)

These are the most common issues.
A. Open the base (find tutorials)
B. Check for #1, if its broke hold firmly in plase and check if it calibrates without the wheel attached. Then replace with 3d printed.
C. If it's not try opening the motor and glueing the magnet core. As I said it's not easy but fixable.
D. When replacing/fixing/reattaching a motor always run the motor calibration tool first.

I am sorry but I am away from home so can't guide extensively, yet more info are available through google if needed.
99% it's repairable.

Then, please, ALWAYS use the forced cooling mode, ALWAYS...

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/R4GRA59E7/thrustmaster-tx-t300-repair-part

https://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/...r-spec-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=224490

 

Seeing some of these issues make me anxious for what the future may hold.

The only issue I could address with my, now 1 year old, t300rs is that the calibration is slightly off-center by 0.2%.
Also had a creak in the wheel, about 1 month ago, when the wheel returned straight after turning left. Yet it was a simple fix of tightening the center bolts.

All in all these issues are negligible compared to many that have passed this thread. So I consider my t300rs without significant problems so far.

 

The are instructions on the official website how to center wheel.

 

Napalm_LT, I thank you very much.

 

CHECKING AND RESETTING THE RACING WHEEL'S CENTER VALUE
Direct Link: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00158.pdf

 

14 months ago I had to buy another T300 base. When it arrived, it was faulty, so I finally got it a month after I had paid for it. Within a short amount of time, I realised that this unit was thinking it was overheating all the time and would weaken the FFB while I was racing, which ruined the rhythm I was in. I had been putting up with shift fade issue for a while, but it was now kicking in sooner and sooner. Also the fan motors were sounding really bad.

Thankfully, Thrustmaster make it a lot easier to get thing done. I have requested a totally new base unit, as I swear the one I just sent off will never work properly. Trying to do all of this back in the summer of 2018 was a long slog to get sorted. Because I got my unit directly from the Thrustmaster factory in France, I didn't have to chase a retailer and explain to them that Thurstmaster have authorised a replacement unit etc.

When my original T300RS was working, it could do max FFB for hours and no get any fade, so I know the T300RS is able to last a session of GT-Sport on a higher FFB. My original base unit had it's warranty expire by just a few weeks, which is why I ended up buying another one.

If this 3rd base unit fails, I will call it quits and move over to a full Fanatec setup.

 

Either your extremely unlucky or not using forced cooling mode ?

 

I use forced cooling mode all the time,

 

It is so badly built it is very easy to be unlucky with this wheel.

It's a disgrace that TM did not produce later revisions of the wheel to correct the known reliability issues - the cheapo $1 cooling fan for example.

 

To be fair you are right, iam on my 3rd unit. I would never recommend TM to anybody, at least they have good customer service, very efficient.

 

Agreed, I got the wheel back like a day or two after it had arrived there. The wheel is possibly worse than the one I had. I'm never going to bother with Thrustmaster FFB wheels every again after all of this.

 

So I had to change my vote to yes. My T300 gt edition just up and crapped out on me. Won’t power up but I can hear an electrical buzz from inside the case. Had forced cooling on after the update. The wheel is a year and 9 months old. Guess it’s a fanetec and hoping it’s compatible with ps5. Really glad I didn’t order the T3PA pro peddles the other day now.

 

I have the same t300rs problem too, where the wheel doesn't go past a certain degree, and it goes to a max of 2% and 97.7%
Maybe I should see if I can somehow set it past 1080°, like to 1105°

Spoiler

Although I think I can live with it, it's not giving me too many problems (unlike the g29) in any game. I'm playing Dirt Rally, FM7 and F1 2015 and the times I'm eating a wall it's due to my lack of skill, rather than the wheel.

EDIT: I once forgot to attach a wheel to the base before turning my pc on, is it's a problem? it did the checks as it normally would, and I attached the wheel as soon as it finishes spinning around. maybe i'm too paranoid.

 

I had ghost button press issue. Had valid warranty so I returned it and got a refund then a T-GT.

 

Well my T300 is now out of warranty. I had already replaced the internal fan (which you can do without voiding warranty if you are careful) but now it's onto more significant mods.

I'm going to focus on cooling so it's time to begin drilling holes in the case. I think I'm going to start by drilling a couple of large holes in each side to increase the airflow that the fan provides and also maybe drill out those "fake" holes that sit in the middle at the top of the base unit and are fairly close to the motor inside.

 

I've finally bought this wheel to replace my DFGT, the GT Edition. The right paddle shift doesn't make the same click sound as the other on the left, and when I shake the wheel I can hear something loosen inside. I'm sending it back to get a refund. This is a minor issue I wouldn't care if I had liked the wheel itself.

 

My T300 RS -GT has developed a fault after 18 months. The accelerator pedal stopped working. Luckily I have a T150 as back up.

Out of curiosity I connected the pedals to this wheel base and the pedals worked fine. The T150 pedals had the same problem when plugged into the T300.

I'm now at the stage where they've agreed to repair the base and are sending out a returns label.

Just a heads-up to anyone who hasn't been through the returns process.
You have to connect your wheel to a PC and record the fault while connected to the Thrustmaster control panel. You upload this and send a picture of your receipt and serial number.

Was thinking of treating myself to the new load cell pedals, but this has really put me off. Do I put the money towards the CSL Elite instead.

 

You could have tightened the screws on the back of the rim to fix the click.

 

I tried that. Didn't work.