Post your FFB settings here

  • Thread starter Timppaq
  • 62 comments
  • 26,416 views
Timppaq

Timppaq

Premium
5,137
Finland
Helsinki
GTP_Timppaq
Ok, I think it's time to make a thread for this as I'm sure it will be a hot topic in a few weeks. :P I recently started to fiddle with the FFB, and as there is almost endless combinations of settings it's really easy to destroy or make the experience much better for you.

Would be great to see that when you post a setting, specify what cars you tested it with at what track and with what wheel, and on what platform.

So here goes the first:

----------------------------------

Platform: PC
Wheel: G25 (old one!)
Cars: FA, McLaren P1, FC, FB, McLaren GT3
Track: Oulton Park GP

CONTROLS/CONFIGURATION:
  • force feedback - 70
CONTROLS/CONTROL SCHEME/CALIBRATE FORCE FEEDBACK:
  • tire force - 200
  • per wheel movement - 0.05
  • pre wheel movement squared - 0.00
  • wheel position smoothing - 0.00
  • deadzone removal range - 0.00
  • deadzone removel falloff - 0.00
  • linkage scale - 0.00
  • linkage stiffness - 0.00
  • linkage damping - 0.00
  • relative adjust gain - 2.00
  • relative adjust bleed - 0.05
  • relative adjust clamp - 0.65
  • scoop knee - 0.07
  • scoop reduction - 0.01
  • soft clipping (half input) - 0.00
  • soft clipping (full output) - 0.00
SESSION/TUNING SETUP/FORCE FEEDBACK (car & track specific):

SPINDLE:
  • master scale - 2.00
  • Fx scale - 0.00
  • Fy scale - 0.00
  • Fz scale - 0.00
  • Mz scale - 18.00
  • Fx smoothing - 0.00
  • Fy smoothing - 0.00
  • Fz smoothing - 0.00
  • Mz smoothing - 0.00
BODY & SOP:
  • body scale - 0.00
  • body longitudinal scale - 0.00
  • body stiffness - 0.00
  • body damping - 0.00
  • SOP scale - 0.00
  • SOP lateral scale - 0.00
  • SOP differential scale - 0.00
  • SOP damping - 0.00
(phef.. there's a lot of paramaters! :P )

----------------------------------

 
Last edited:
Timppaq
Ok, I think it's time to make a thread for this as I'm sure it will be a hot topic in a few weeks. :P I recently started to fiddle with the FFB, and as there is almost endless combinations of settings it's really easy to destroy or make the experience much better for you.

Would be great to see that when you post a setting, specify what cars you tested it with at what track and with what wheel, and on what platform.

So here goes the first:

----------------------------------

Platform: PC
Wheel: G25 (old one!)
Cars: FA, McLaren P1, FC, FB, McLaren GT3
Track: Oulton Park GP

CONTROLS/CONFIGURATION:
  • force feedback - 70
CONTROLS/CONTROL SCHEME/CALIBRATE FORCE FEEDBACK:
  • tire force - 200
  • per wheel movement - 0.05
  • pre wheel movement squared - 0.00
  • wheel position smoothing - 0.00
  • deadzone removal range - 0.00
  • deadzone removel falloff - 0.00
  • linkage scale - 0.00
  • linkage stiffness - 0.00
  • linkage damping - 0.00
  • relative adjust gain - 2.00
  • relative adjust bleed - 0.05
  • relative adjust clamp - 0.65
  • scoop knee - 0.07
  • scoop reduction - 0.01
  • soft clipping (half input) - 0.00
  • soft clipping (full output) - 0.00
SESSION/TUNING SETUP/FORCE FEEDBACK (car & track specific):

SPINDLE:
  • master scale - 2.00
  • Fx scale - 0.00
  • Fy scale - 0.00
  • Fz scale - 0.00
  • Mz scale - 18.00
  • Fx smoothing - 0.00
  • Fy smoothing - 0.00
  • Fz smoothing - 0.00
  • Mz smoothing - 0.00
BODY & SOP:
  • body scale - 0.00
  • body longitudinal scale - 0.00
  • body stiffness - 0.00
  • body damping - 0.00
  • SOP scale - 0.00
  • SOP lateral scale - 0.00
  • SOP differential scale - 0.00
  • SOP damping - 0.00
(phef.. there's a lot of paramaters! :P )

----------------------------------

Click to expand...


Wow lots to go at there, will we get same amount settings on console?

Thanks for sharing 👍
 
I voted for bmanic's standard tweaks to be implemented on Thrustmaster wheels, including 100% FFB, 0% smoothing, etc... Last time I looked they were fully implemented as standard and FFB is very good out of the box across the board.

The only thing which might need tweaking is a few percent (maybe 5%) deadzone removal, since that wasn't applying as standard by default last time I looked.
 
For the T300, the default FFB strength still sits at 75%. However, todays build notes mentioned the per car FFB strength has been increased for certain cars :-)
 
I haven't played with the FFB settings a lot myself and to be honest I find it quite daunting. :lol: Is there any benefit to using external tools like the one mentioned for AC over here?
 
NLxAROSA
I haven't played with the FFB settings a lot myself and to be honest I find it quite daunting. :lol: Is there any benefit to using external tools like the one mentioned for AC over here?
Click to expand...

Dunno about any external apps.. but I'm sure in due time there will be for PC at least :) Without trying to honk my own horn too much, this could be a good place to start with fiddling with the sliders. It can be daunting at first for sure, but maybe the post I made at WMD can give at least the basics that you should fiddle with first. Because it is very easy to do bad things too. So just knowing where to start is a good thing imo. More will follow ;)

http://forum.wmdportal.com/showthread.php?21098-FFB-tuning-guide-(wip)&p=847007#post847007
 
Goruk
After reading your first post I got :scared:. @Timppaq
Will there be a "reset to default" button, in case we get lost...
Click to expand...

Yes, of course there will be.. and it's not that difficult per se.. it just takes time to go through them all. But rest assured, there will be a lot that you can do for the FFB.. honestly. And that is a good thing (default is really good already, but maybe not the "optimal" for all the different wheels out there).

I'll try to come up with a guideline post here before release, of where you should start (if you feel a need to change something). But it won't be perfect, the aim is to give at least some kind of redline to follow.. and after that you will be on your own :D
 
NLxAROSA
I haven't played with the FFB settings a lot myself and to be honest I find it quite daunting. :lol: Is there any benefit to using external tools like the one mentioned for AC over here?
Click to expand...
Yes! The FFB clipping meter showed me how high I can set the FFB on the G27 before clipping starts. I can say without a doubt that anyone that had their FFB in GT5/6 at 5 or 6 or higher and certainly in the 9-10 range, before the FFB update, was massively clipping every time they turned the wheel. Granted the fine detail wasn't in the game to begin with but they are definitely working on it and it's much improved, and lighter, after the recent updates. After you set up a few cars in AC you get a feel for how heavy the wheel can be without clipping and that level of weight won't be able to be any higher in Project Cars because the limitation is the wheel not the game.
 
I already figured as much after reading the topic on the AC forum. So I can use the WheelCheck app to determine overal FFB level. Though in pCARS that could translate into more than one parameter. There is of course 'tyre force', but (correct me if I'm wrong) is just the amount of tyre force fed into the model, not necessarily output to the wheel. And then there is 'Master level' per car, also not sure if this really translates to an overall FFB level. Perhaps @Timppaq can shed a bit more light on this?
 
Johnnypenso
Yes! The FFB clipping meter showed me how high I can set the FFB on the G27 before clipping starts. I can say without a doubt that anyone that had their FFB in GT5/6 at 5 or 6 or higher and certainly in the 9-10 range, before the FFB update, was massively clipping every time they turned the wheel. Granted the fine detail wasn't in the game to begin with but they are definitely working on it and it's much improved, and lighter, after the recent updates. After you set up a few cars in AC you get a feel for how heavy the wheel can be without clipping and that level of weight won't be able to be any higher in Project Cars because the limitation is the wheel not the game.
Click to expand...

And yet there is still a difference between wanting detail and wanting absolute "force" (heavy wheel). Sadly, there is only so much room to play with a "normal" wheel, where you want to have plenty of strength in the FFB, but still satisfying separation and detail.
 
NLxAROSA
I already figured as much after reading the topic on the AC forum. So I can use the WheelCheck app to determine overal FFB level. Though in pCARS that could translate into more than one parameter. There is of course 'tyre force', but (correct me if I'm wrong) is just the amount of tyre force fed into the model, not necessarily output to the wheel. And then there is 'Master level' per car, also not sure if this really translates to an overall FFB level. Perhaps @Timppaq can shed a bit more light on this?
Click to expand...

For not clipping your FFB there is many ways to prevent it in pcars. Not going to write all of my thoughts here again (I will post the same stuff to gtp before release that I linked), but the main thing is to do things in a certain order imo. When you do that, I've never ended up with a clipping FFB.
 
NLxROSIE..

test this.. default settings with FC at Oulton Park. And then after that, test the ones below. They are "quite extreme" as far as you would think by many of the settings set out there, but once you try you might not feel that way. The difference here for sure is the wheel in use, but you can only test with what you have, right? But to my understanding, if the FFB meter is not clipping it should be global for all wheels...

btw.. I use an old G25.

I deliberately kept most of the settings at default. There is more to be taken out of the system, but keeping it simple (for me) at the beginning builds foundation to go deeper into the details in the future.

Everything else that can not be seen here is at default.

So, at the main menu UI:
FFB=90
Tire force=200
per wheel movement=0.04 (or 1.04)
otherwise default
car(&track) specific settings has the biggest changes here... (TUNING SETUP)














 
Last edited:
Will give these a go tomorrow. 👍 In your LT profiler, you have everything default as well (except 900 degrees steering of course)?
 
I never start the Logitech profiler when I play (or actually when I start the pc).. but here are the settings I have on the "overall page" (if it would make any difference), general settings, no specific profile:

2ptw2zr.jpg
 
Those are not meant for the first few days, you'll be really fine just using the defaults.. but as time goes by I know the community will find amazing settings for each car. Don't be afraid, be glad someone (AJ) gave you the chance to make the FFB as good as it can be with this game and with your wheel.

It truly makes the driving feel interesting without getting the rear out all the time, when you have the FFB settings right.

But I know, there is that feel - could it be even better? But if it is already really good, you can only win.
 
Timppaq
Those are not meant for the first few days, you'll be really fine just using the defaults.. but as time goes by I know the community will find amazing settings for each car. Don't be afraid, be glad someone (AJ) gave you the chance to make the FFB as good as it can be with this game and with your wheel.

It truly makes the driving feel interesting without getting the rear out all the time, when you have the FFB settings right.

But I know, there is that feel - could it be even better? But if it is already really good, you can only win.
Click to expand...

I agree with Timppaq on this. The defaults are great already, so you don't need to tweak anything.

If in the future you wish to dive into the voodoo that seems to be force feedback, than do so in the same manner as if you setup your car. Just change one setting at a time and see how it impacts the car physics and force feedback feel.

I say both car physics and force feedback because your FFB-motor drives the codewheel or magnet of your position sensor (IR-sensor or HALL-sensor). That position is fed back into the game's physics engine to reposition the front wheels. So everything the FFB-motor does has direct impact again on the physics, which you could call a FFB feedback loop.

So take it one step at the time, but as said it is best to be content with the defaults for at least the first 14 days of gaming. Just so you can get adjusted to how the game feels and how its physics work, which feels different to all other titles and might mean some readjustment.
After all, I think many of use have gotten used to feeling certain FFB effects/signals in a certain way from playing the last generation of sim games. Since this game, in my opinion, is a next-step in FFB delivery you might need to get re-adjusted. To me the game's force feedback does feel more accurate to real life than any other sim out there (including all current top sims).

So try the defaults first and most importantly... don't forget to have fun. ;)
 
Yeah. . It did (the ffb) have a huge effect on me... To be honest it felt weird after GT. But then I gave myself enough time to settle in.. and after that it all just made sense.
 
Timppaq
Yeah. . It did (the ffb) have a huge effect on me... To be honest it felt weird after GT. But then I gave myself enough time to settle in.. and after that it all just made sense.
Click to expand...

Well, at least you're free to say that now, Timo. If you had won the 2013 GT Academy than you might've been stuk to GT marketing due to sponsorship and all. ;)
Just goes to show you're not some bad sim driver who claims something about a game either by the way.

For me the game connected when the Seta Tyre Model was introduced and the FFB was stripped of canned effects, and everything was purely coming from the physics engine.
I don't know if you remember it from back than, but that first time you felt how well rubber was replicate on that first attempt. I'll never forget it. It was as if the car finally started to communicate with me like it should, and my steering wheel felt like it was connected to wheels, which in turn touched and gripped the ground.
That was 2 years ago now? I think I have gotten pretty used to it after being in this precious position of playing the game for a long time. Still if I take a break and first go through all the other games, which I did in January after the holidays, and even playing iRacing or AC... when I start pCARS it's as if things fall into place. My whole body starts to want to play the game more and more as I get an adrenaline rush from attacking every corner like I want it and being one with the car at those moments.

All the other sims just don't cut it for me, even though pCARS isn't perfect either. It is still my best addiction, as it provides me with the best rush due to the way I can become one with the car.
 
@Timppaq : interesting you have the center spring enabled, but at 0%?

A thing I did notice, if you enable center spring, but leave it at the default 100%, it will almost completely drown out any FFB effects, except for very hard clipping. So I turned it off and it made a HUGE difference. Not sure if the game dynamically changes the value, but I'll use your setting anyway to see if it makes a difference. 👍
 
NLxAROSA
@Timppaq : interesting you have the center spring enabled, but at 0%?

A thing I did notice, if you enable center spring, but leave it at the default 100%, it will almost completely drown out any FFB effects, except for very hard clipping. So I turned it off and it made a HUGE difference. Not sure if the game dynamically changes the value, but I'll use your setting anyway to see if it makes a difference. 👍
Click to expand...

Yeah, somebody posted these profiler settings @ WMD so I tried them and just left there
 
Tried the settings, work quite nicely, especially compared to default. 👍 Still looking for a good road car setting though. ;)
 

Latest Posts

Back