Some things I've learned and just how I do things:
Weight reducing to 900-905kg will give you the best P.W.R. at any given PP rating.
However, most cars cannot reduce to 900kg. This makes light cars in GT6 OP because they generally corner better than heavier cars while at the same time receiving a better PWR at the same PP. Although, if two cars are in the same weight range, GT6 tends to give the better handling car less power. i.e. '97 NSX Type S Zero vs '02 NSX-R. The S Zero will be granted a better PWR at the same PP.
If your car weight reduces below 900kg, you may want to add ballast. This works well on front heavy FFs like the Mitsubishi Cyborg. You can add a lot of ballast to the rear while maintaining a total weight of 900-905kg.
Avoid the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. They do not give the best HP. They tend to increase torque.
If you want a flatter curve, just overshoot the PP limit a little and turn down the power limiter ~5-10%.
A short track implies a tight gear spacing, so you can get away with a higher peak HP value at the expense of a flat curve. Longer tracks imply a wider spacing, you may want to sacrifice some peak HP for a greater area under the curve for the rev range your gear spacing runs through.
I tend to add exhaust, cat and sports computer before looking at the engine or turbo upgrades. But every car is different. Sometimes turbos provide the most HP and a decent curve when turned down.
As for the trans: You want to do what's known as a transmission flip. All that means is you're stretching out the tightest gear spacing available just enough to suit your top speed need. Do this after settling on your power settings. In general:
- Reset trans to default.
- Pick a final gear "flip" point. (Trial and error)
- Set your max speed slider all the way left. (This is the tightest gear spacing)
- Bring your final gear ratio all the way left. (This is the stretching of the gearbox)
- Adjust the individual gear spacing. (Usually 1st all the way left , 5th&6th all the way right and 2-4 spaced evenly.)
- If you don't have enough gear, or too much gear, start over and pick another flip point.
You can always adjust each gear individually to suit specific corners/circuits like Pete05 said. Also, having 1st gear full left may prove too much gear for low powered cars, especially in slow corners. The revs may drop well below the powerband.
You may want to set 1st through 3rd relatively short and have 4,5 and 6 hang out. (This works well on 4WDs for drag racing.) Just wanna make sure that after every shift your car stays in the powerband and the revs don't fall too far.
You can download the GTP drag leaderboard test track or make your own through the course creator and play around.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...t6-drag-leaderboards-begin-no-nitrous.337317/
One thing I'll add is this: Regardless of the spacing you settle upon, always -
ALWAYS - flip the trans so your final gear ends up full left. I don't know what it is, but your car will be quicker this way. I have tested this on the GTP drag leaderboard. Two gearboxes. One with the final gear full left. The other with the final gear somewhere in the middle. Each gearbox is set so that their ratios multiply out to the same net value. The gearbox with the FG full left will always be half a car to a full car length quicker over a quarter mile span.
Flipping full right is more convenient since you bring the final gear down to what you need and it ends up somewhere in the middle (thus you have adjustment room for either more or less gear without having to re-flip), but it is slower. If you do it this way, make sure to convert your ratios so that your FG is full left once you're happy with your gearbox. Just takes some simple algebra and you're good to go.
I hope this helps.
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