Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

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The community event at Sugo in the rain is the grip supposed to be zero? Doesnt seem to be any way to put wets on and feels like im running softs?
 
With the automatic clutch bugged (having it turned off and I still can shift without clutch)...

Has this been confirmed by SMS?

Hey I literally just found the solution. Go to your controller panel where it shows your wheel and turn off auto clutch there. I happened to stumble upon it. Oddly, yes the button mapping for autoclutch doesn't work though

Mine is already off there but I can still change gears in manual H-pattern cars without touching the clutch with no consequences.
 
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If this is a bug, it is a super bada## bug. I'm on gt4 cota race and for some reason a couple cars actually pull over to the side of the road as I pass, then when I get by, they sort of creep back out into the road (in practice). I'm thinking either the are on out-lap or they have damage? If this is a bug though, keep it cuz it really adds to the realism to see someone not doing so hot.
 
The community event at Sugo in the rain is the grip supposed to be zero? Doesnt seem to be any way to put wets on and feels like im running softs?

You are on the mediums by default in that event, you can change that however from the ICM menu and then by pitting. Other tires won't be much help, trust me. I have no idea how people managed to beat dry times in that rainy event, but I suspect clever use of game mechanics.
 
I really think there needs to be a penalty of some sort for people that wreck you. Getting one point for contact is irrelevant from my experience so far. There's already a penalty for passing people outside of track limits, so why not have one where if you pass somebody causing contact you have to give the spot back? As it is now you can have your race ruined and the other person carries on as normal. The rest of the penalty system is awesome, but the one point for contact doesn't seem harsh enough.
 
I really think there needs to be a penalty of some sort for people that wreck you. Getting one point for contact is irrelevant from my experience so far. There's already a penalty for passing people outside of track limits, so why not have one where if you pass somebody causing contact you have to give the spot back? As it is now you can have your race ruined and the other person carries on as normal. The rest of the penalty system is awesome, but the one point for contact doesn't seem harsh enough.
Agree. I lost a race I had led from the start tonight because the person in second used me as a brake into the final corner. Ten clean laps out front down the drain and to cap it all of my licence rating ended up going down as a result.
 
Agree. I lost a race I had led from the start tonight because the person in second used me as a brake into the final corner. Ten clean laps out front down the drain and to cap it all of my licence rating ended up going down as a result.
I had a similar thing yesterday. Some [retracted cause AUP] completely wiped the guy in front out into a corner at Donington on the final lap and removed any chance of a clean overtake to win the race. I took the final corner in fear that he'd do the same to me.
 
To anyone on PC or Xbox. Do the tire temperature and pressure diagrams in the setup menu work or do they stay at whatever the cold pressure and temperatures are?
 
To anyone on PC or Xbox. Do the tire temperature and pressure diagrams in the setup menu work or do they stay at whatever the cold pressure and temperatures are?

The values you set are the cold pressures I believe. The readouts however change dynamically even while you are in the setup menu. In case of the tire graphics in the top-right corner, they are updated in real-time, but the pressure readouts where you change the values are only updated when you change anything in the setup.

The latter made me think initially that there is some kind of bug that raises the pressures no matter what you change, but as it turns out it was only due to the fact that pressures start to climb from cold temps to match those of the pre-warmed tires and updated when I adjusted the settings. So they should be the pre-warmed temps and live pressures, which could still be different from what you end up with on track, since the tire temps will change with the track temps, ambient temps and how you drive as well and this will affect the pressures too.

If any of this are incorrect I would like to know too, as due to a few bugs in how setups are loaded I'm still not confident in the numbers I see on the setup screen, I tend to check them during driving instead.
 
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They change dynamically even while you are in the setup menu. In case of the tire graphics in the top-right corner, they are updated in real-time, but the pressure readouts where you change the values are only updated when you change anything in the setup.

The latter made me think initially that there is some kind of bug that raises the pressures no matter what you change, but as it turns out it was only due to the fact that pressures start to climb from cold temps to match those of the pre-warmed tires and updated when I adjusted the settings. So they should be the pre-warmed temps and live pressures, which could still be different from what you experience on track, since the tire temps will change with the track and ambient temps and how you drive as well and this will affect the pressures too.
My question was do the diagrams work for anyone because they don't reflect hot pressures or temperature on PS4. If that's what they are intended to do then they don't work. If they aren't for hot temps/pressures then I don't know why they are there.
 
My question was do the diagrams work for anyone because they don't reflect hot pressures or temperature on PS4. If that's what they are intended to do then they don't work. If they aren't for hot temps/pressures then I don't know why they are there.

I have no idea how they work on the consoles, but they shouldn't differ from the PC. Here's my current experience with the diagrams and readouts:

setup.png


1) This is the cold pressure you set.

2) Readout of pre-warmed temps and matching pressures. Kinda confusing though, since they will only updates when you change anything in the setup. Also, the pressures will start from the cold ones you set, while the temps will start from fixed pre-warmed temps and slowly change depending on the actual environmental conditions on the track.

For example, the temps started from around 55 degrees for me when I entered the setup screen, but fell and stabilized around these values due to the cold conditions I assume. The pressures started at the cold ones I set and slowly climbed to these values.

3) These are the live pressure and temp readouts I mentioned, what you can expect when starting to drive in the event. I assume the temps are lower compared to #2 (judging by the colors) since they will fall considerably without tire warmers.

So, except for the pressure values you set, the readouts are hot pressures, although in the case of the readouts at #2, they will need a bit of time to actualize.

Keep in mind that all these values can still change after a few laps while driving, based on the conditions on track. How aggressively you drive will also affect how the temps and pressures will change.
 
I have no idea how they work on the consoles, but they shouldn't differ from the PC. Here's my current experience with the diagrams and readouts:

View attachment 675840

1) This is the cold pressure you set.

2) Readout of pre-warmed temps and matching pressures. Kinda confusing though, since they will only updates when you change anything in the setup. Also, the pressures will start from the cold ones you set, while the temps will start from fixed pre-warmed temps and slowly change depending on the actual environmental conditions on the track.

For example, the temps started from around 55 degrees for me when I entered the setup screen, but fell and stabilized around these values due to the cold conditions I assume. The pressures started at the cold ones I set and slowly climbed to these values.

3) These are the live pressure and temp readouts I mentioned, what you can expect when starting to drive in the event. I assume the temps are lower compared to #2 (judging by the colors) since they will fall considerably without tire warmers.

So, except for the pressure values you set, the readouts are hot pressures, although in the case of the readouts at #2, they will need a bit of time to actualize.

Keep in mind that all these values can still change after a few laps while driving, based on the conditions on track. How aggressively you drive will also affect how the temps and pressures will change.
The temps always read 80F, which is what the tires start at out of the pits, and the pressures always reflect cold pressures. I'm almost positive this isn't working as intended as it would be the most pointless feature to tell you what your cold pressures are that you already set in the car setup itself and stone cold temperatures. It is setup in an Outside Middle Inside readout like many other sims.
 
The temps always read 80F, which is what the tires start at out of the pits, and the pressures always reflect cold pressures. I'm almost positive this isn't working as intended as it would be the most pointless feature to tell you what your cold pressures are that you already set in the car setup itself and stone cold temperatures. It is setup in an Outside Middle Inside readout like many other sims.

If the readout doesn't change, even after you adjust any of the values on the setup screen (even stuff unrelated to temps or pressures should trigger an update), then you should definitely post a bug report about this on the official forums, as the readout definitely reflects live data on the PC. Posting a video about this would be helpful too.
 
If the readout doesn't change, even after you adjust any of the values on the setup screen (even stuff unrelated to temps or pressures should trigger an update), then you should definitely post a bug report about this on the official forums, as the readout definitely reflects live data on the PC. Posting a video about this would be helpful too.
So your little green diagrams change to reflect your hot temperatures after you return to the tuning setup after a run? As in they don't read 80/80/80 all the time?
 
Wait what? IS the drive this car this many miles and you get a invite from a manufacturer only if you start a career? Cause i got over 1038 miles with the GTR and i don't see any invites? :(
 
Wait what? IS the drive this car this many miles and you get a invite from a manufacturer only if you start a career? Cause i got over 1038 miles with the GTR and i don't see any invites? :(
In career only. If you drive the Mclaren 650S in Career you'll get one.
 
From the man himself

Hey man, sorry for the delay. It's been pretty intense and busy.

Basically we have a bug with saved games and setups causing the machine to slow down over time. We're debugging it internally now. The only workaround is to delete lots of setups and see if it helps. And the only absolute workaround is to delete the whole save game. Not good enough I know but we are working furiously to fix it.
 
Anyone know how to save your TCS settings in the in-car management menu? It keeps resetting to 0.09
One of the things that AC did better on consoles! Having a single button (say for TC or ABS) that you keep pressing and it keeps toggling between all available values!
That management menu is so horrendous and clumsy! Not so natural to use!
 
sadly the * xbox * version is unplayable with a full grid :banghead:

And it effects lap times.
Did a multiclass 25 Cars at Laguna Seca and my laptimes were 7 secs slower than in solo training.


With the multitude of classes on offer in PCars2 we still have to contend with 90% of lobbies being GT3. What is wrong with people?!

I like GT3 but some variety would be nice.
Simply Controller friendly. And the biggest selection of cars.
 
One of the things that AC did better on consoles! Having a single button (say for TC or ABS) that you keep pressing and it keeps toggling between all available values!
That management menu is so horrendous and clumsy! Not so natural to use!

True. It makes no sense to have to press a button 90 times to the right while racing if you start with 0.09 TSC and want to set it to 0.99... not to mention that, while doing it, you'll be messing around with your camera if you happen to have the right and left buttons of the d-pad working as your "look right" and "look left" settings.
 
True. It makes no sense to have to press a button 90 times to the right while racing if you start with 0.09 TSC and want to set it to 0.99... not to mention that, while doing it, you'll be messing around with your camera if you happen to have the right and left buttons of the d-pad working as your "look right" and "look left" settings.
The camera look right and traction control definitely made me end up in a couple of walls until i remapped my buttons :lol:
 
True. It makes no sense to have to press a button 90 times to the right while racing if you start with 0.09 TSC and want to set it to 0.99... not to mention that, while doing it, you'll be messing around with your camera if you happen to have the right and left buttons of the d-pad working as your "look right" and "look left" settings.
1. We're going to clean up those values so that it will be simply 0-10 in steps of 1 (where 0 = OFF and 10 = FULL ON)

2. For now, you should keep the value somewhere between 0.05 (rain) and 0.15 (dry) (and it's a bit reversed how you would think about it, 0.05 is essentially FULL ON and 0.15 is basically FULL OFF)

What the current values mean is how much slip angle to accept before TC kicks in. 0.05 is very little slip angle (so TC kicks in sooner) while 0.15 means a lot of slip angle (so TC kicks in later). So the number is defining the vehicle angle when TC will activate.

Hope this helps, and sorry for the confusion with these initial numbers
 
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