Reversed suspension settings on some cars in GT6

Lambofanghini

Lambofanghini

70
United States
US
Kronosw77
waltdaww
There is a bug present causing some vehicles camber suspension settings to be reversed. I believe this also existed in GT5 but I never encountered it until playing GT6 version 1.01-2.01. Flipping my Diablo 00 GT’s rear camber settings to the front and the front to rear helped me to solve my spinning problem. At least I finally have a Lambo which has fully accepted the Lamborghini Countach 25th tunes I had in GT5 for sport softs/racing hard tires 550-650pp. I already knew about using ballast to balance MR cars but the suspension bug was holding me back. My suspicion about a possible bug was further reinforced when I was setting up my 70 Nova for a couple of "a" license N/A races.

After adding racing hard suspension the car became more tail happy while cornering. Adding a wing with down force up to 20 helped some, but equipping a fully adjustable suspension with rear camber settings up to 3.0 had reversed my progress. After noticing that I had more prominent over steer after setting the rear camber I decided to adjust the front to 3.0 and set the rear back to 0.0. BINGO!! Along with my other mods (500pp) and settings the car now corners like a champ on SS tires with a little understeer and responds well to torque steer. Right now I have only notice this issue with camber adjustments. Is anyone else aware of this issue in GT6? What other cars may be effected?
 
Too much camber at the rear will promote oversteer, at least that's how ZELE Pikes Peak RB26 350Z was tuned, big camber at the rear, and very little negative camber at the front, lots of oversteer action when driven by Naoki Hattori and Takuya Kurosawa - on YH Advan Neova AD07 225/18 tires, both said that the car is very easy to oversteer and also easy to hold the slide. The car has R32 GTR ATTESA-ETS drivetrain. This was on BM videos :)
 
Lambofanghini
Thanks xSNAKEx. Read some of the posts, so it looks like this problem may be here to stay.?
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I wouldn't hold on my breath on PD fixing it but its definitely possible. It depends how much noise people make and judging by the activity in this thread it seems people are getting less and less interested in important stuff like this and care more about how much prize money they win how many cars they can collect and and how the AI drives.
 
KW as a company should be contacted about this because it is their company name attached to suspension model of GT6.

Forum noise can only do that much, but once the companies gets involved and reputation comes in picture, something can be done.

I would propose that you create a short but descriptive overview of the issue and we can discuss further moves. Without KW only forum noise is possible but with them maybe we can make some progress.

I can help with constructing of the overview draft for actual submitance but you would need to make an understandable and compehendable overview of the issue, preferably with some pictures and settings explanations, as long it is valid complaint.
 
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Before coming to a conclusion, I'd try some more settings.

I haven't really got in to the tuning in GT6 yet as I'm completing career 1st, but 3.0* would have been a VERY high rear camber setting in GT5... and too much camber will give you less grip. In GT5, 3.0* would have been high for front camber, with optimal typically being in the 1.5-2.5* range and rear normally 0.8-1.8.

Not saying your findings are wrong 👍
 
thats how it should be, the more rear camber you dial into a RWD the less grip you have. In an AWD, a bit of rear camber will aid corner grip but not in a RWD ;)
 
GT5FREAK500
thats how it should be, the more rear camber you dial into a RWD the less grip you have. In an AWD, a bit of rear camber will aid corner grip but not in a RWD ;)
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To a point.

The more camber you have the less straight line traction you will have.

But when lateral forces are involved, you need camber to ensure the outside tyre (the one under the most load) has the maximum contact patch.

For example... the alignment settings for my 996 are 0* front, 1.2* rear.
 
It would even happen at 1.5-2.5. I was going for cornering grip for a very heavy 472hp classic up against much lighter more modern cars whereas blipping the throttle puts you onto a drift. Maybe I will get a new camera for Xmas and will be able to upload some pics. Thanks for the replies guys. I still just don't know why adjusting the front has reduced oversteer since the rear is at 0.0. See if you all can test it out.
 
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The rear camber on my car was around 1.9. I set it to 1.0 and its much better. Personally I think anything more than -1 on the rear and -1.5 on the front is too much for most production cars.

P.S I mean in real life. I don't know how it is in GT.
 
I've been playing around with the suspension on a Nascar while running the Motegi event. Still have not quite came to terms with it in GT and really miss the telemetry view in Forza while trying to sort it out.

I have found that if I lower the car very much I lose a lot of lap time and the car produces a lot of understeer. I dropped both the front and rear to 65 and I lost over 1/2 second on lap times from what I was getting with it set to 75 and if I set it as low as it goes it can not make it through a corner at any real speed, somewhere in there is an ideal ride height for these cars on this track but haven't quite narrowed it down yet
 
I understand that 3.0 camber in the rear can be excessive causing lost of lateral grip during acceleration (especially w/o traction control on), but what I don't get is why adjusting the front causes the rear to respond with better grip. It appears reversed to me.:confused: I usually run traction control at 5 with abs at 1 and have great results with 3.0 on certain none weight reduced FR cars on SS, unless drifting of course. Can someone try, if they have time and credits, to see if their 70 Nova has similar problems? At least my two problem cars are driveable now.
 
I guess I rest my case for now. The cars are driveable since swapping front and rear camber at least, so it's back to enjoying driving, especially that Mercedes and those Red Bull Juniors!!:drool: I will have to revisit this later when I can present more proof, like vids.
:gtpflag:
 
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Lambofanghini
It would even happen at 1.5-2.5. I was going for cornering grip for a very heavy 472hp classic up against much lighter more modern cars whereas blipping the throttle puts you onto a drift. Maybe I will get a new camera for Xmas and will be able to upload some pics. Thanks for the replies guys. I still just don't know why adjusting the front has reduced oversteer since the rear is at 0.0. See if you all can test it out.
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Just an observation here but if adding camber reduces grip instead of promoting it then what you are doing makes sense. Add camber to the rear you get less grip. Leave it at zero you get max grip. Add some camber to the front, you get less grip at the front and therefore less oversteer. Not concluding that's what's happening nor that it makes sense, but it explains your observations.

I have been struggling with tuning several cars and have yet to find any benefit from adding camber.
 
Well first off i would recommend you guys read on how car suspension works. I have aligned lots of cars. I have also corner weight balanced several cars wish gt could have that. First off to have maximum traction you need maximum surface area f tires to road. Secondly most cars are different because of frame and suspension. NOT ALL CARS ACT THE SAME TO SETTINGS. The cars weight length height suspension distribution of everything play huge parts. These cars also do not drive in straight lines all game. So when you are tuning you have to have the best all around balance. Tight rears should need less camber but to tight has problems too. One suspension adjustment should affect all of the suspension balance is key!
 
turbohonda666
Well first off i would recommend you guys read on how car suspension works. I have aligned lots of cars. I have also corner weight balanced several cars wish gt could have that. First off to have maximum traction you need maximum surface area f tires to road. Secondly most cars are different because of frame and suspension. NOT ALL CARS ACT THE SAME TO SETTINGS. The cars weight length height suspension distribution of everything play huge parts. These cars also do not drive in straight lines all game. So when you are tuning you have to have the best all around balance. Tight rears should need less camber but to tight has problems too. One suspension adjustment should affect all of the suspension balance is key!
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I know how suspensions work, and maybe it is my settings, maybe not. Been playing GT since the nineties and never had this prob ever, so that's wierd to me.:odd: Too tight rears mean less lateral grip under accel, to much camber in front means oversteer, I know. The reason I choose GT as my driving game of choice is mainly due to the amount of feed back you get from the cars you drive, especially with the new physics engine in GT6.:cheers: But why does adjusting for the front results in tightening up the rear? I just wanted to know if someone got the same results on say a 70 Nova or Diablo GT 00.
 
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Lambofanghini
I know how suspensions work, and maybe it is my settings, maybe not. Been playing GT since the nineties and never had this prob ever, so that's wierd to me.:odd: Too tight rears mean less lateral grip under accel, to much camber in front means oversteer, I know. But why does adjusting for the front results in tightening up the rear? I just wanted to know if someone got the same results on say a 70 Nova or Diablo GT 00.[/quote


I'm not trying to criticize i seem to have had a lot better lap times with diff tuning on loose mr or fr cars. That's where i like to start on lmk if that helps.
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Stotty
Before coming to a conclusion, I'd try some more settings.

I haven't really got in to the tuning in GT6 yet as I'm completing career 1st, but 3.0* would have been a VERY high rear camber setting in GT5... and too much camber will give you less grip. In GT5, 3.0* would have been high for front camber, with optimal typically being in the 1.5-2.5* range and rear normally 0.8-1.8.

Not saying your findings are wrong 👍
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But the camber settings you guys use in game are nothing near the levels they use in touring car racing, and touring cars are more stiff than road cars so if preparing a road car for the track 6 degrees plus would not be far off the mark as a starting point (softer the suspension the more roll -> the more camber you need to keep the tyre flat).

Hell redbull F1 was using 3 degrees, and that is F1 where they use FAR LESS camber than in touring car racing. It always makes me wonder when I see camber settings for GT games in the 0 to 2.0 range. Do these people not have good testing or are the camber settings in GT nothing at all like real life?
 
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turbohonda666
Well first off i would recommend you guys read on how car suspension works. I have aligned lots of cars. I have also corner weight balanced several cars wish gt could have that. First off to have maximum traction you need maximum surface area f tires to road. Secondly most cars are different because of frame and suspension. NOT ALL CARS ACT THE SAME TO SETTINGS. The cars weight length height suspension distribution of everything play huge parts. These cars also do not drive in straight lines all game. So when you are tuning you have to have the best all around balance. Tight rears should need less camber but to tight has problems too. One suspension adjustment should affect all of the suspension balance is key!
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If you tuned in GT5, you'd know that real life and the GT series are often strangers from one another. Even when PD says, Do A to get B and C to get D it doesn't always mean that, sometimes it means Do B to get C and A to get D. Sometimes it means Do A and B all you want and nothing happens. It's all trial and error and I generally try to ignore what I think something should be doing in real life until it proves to be true in the game.
 
This is exactly why we need telemetry, inside, middle, outside tire temps with pressure adjustments and INDIVIDUAL corner suspension settings. It blows my mind how PD still have the same barbaric shot-in-the-dark tuning settings. :grumpy:
 
Lambofanghini
I know how suspensions work, and maybe it is my settings, maybe not. Been playing GT since the nineties and never had this prob ever, so that's wierd to me.:odd: Too tight rears mean less lateral grip under accel, to much camber in front means oversteer, I know. The reason I choose GT as my driving game of choice is mainly due to the amount of feed back you get from the cars you drive, especially with the new physics engine in GT6.:cheers: But why does adjusting for the front results in tightening up the rear? I just wanted to know if someone got the same results on say a 70 Nova or Diablo GT 00.
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I would suggest lightly that you're not thinking of the car as a whole, and merely splitting it into 'front' and 'rear'... taking away or adding grip to one end of the car can affect the other end just as much. As an example, I have been using HaB-Racing's superb setup for the Audi R18, but I'm finding that some of my preferred driving style elements are overheating the front tyres in some corners. I'm getting great front end grip and turn in, it's just how I enter corners and how I use the brakes, so in attempting to tweak the balance I've taken some of the grip out of the rear to give me some more rotation and less strain on the front tyres. The overall balance is better because I worked on the opposite end to give results on the front.

Too much camber upfront will give you oversteer eventually yes, but camber at the front is always better for turn-in than no camber. It might just be that all that is needed to give the car a better overall balance was tweaking something on the front end.
 

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