Ride Compliance Suspension Tuning Guide

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daveyules
Welcome to my Ride Compliance Suspension Tuning Guide. This post contains my entire breadth of tuning knowledge regarding shock and spring rates and how they are related in GT4. It’s intended to be a clear and accurate guide to help you tune your cars to perfection. Let’s get started.

An Introduction

In my opinion the absolute fastest racing suspension is not necessarily the stiffest, but the most compliant. By compliant I mean that the suspension fully absorbs the impact of any bump at any speed in order to keep all tires in contact with the road. Doing so minimizes undesired momentum that can cause you to lose control.

Ride Compliance

The best way to figure out if you’ve nailed the most compliant suspension settings for any given car is by watching the way it bounds over bumps. If you can see or feel that the car is reacting multiple times per bump (bouncing) then you know that your springs and shock absorbers are not in sync. To elaborate, when you hit a bump, you want to see your car have two reactions:

First, the car should absorb the impact of the bump. The distance that your car moves vertically is directly related to the stiffness of your suspension, your speed, and the trajectory of the bump. At high speeds it's easy to leap off the pavement if your springs and shocks are not soft enough. Remember that a tire that is not in contact with the road is not affording you any stability, acceleration, or deceleration.

Once your suspension fully absorbs the bump, its second reaction works to reestablish your car’s ride height to its prior level. This is where shock rebound comes into play. If your shocks are too soft or too hard the car will bounce. Bouncing is never ideal because it can cause inconsistent responses from your car's suspension. If your car reaches another bump before it has settled from the prior one, your suspension geometry will be different and you may not be prepared to react sufficiently to maintain control. This is what we are trying to avoid by tuning a car for ride compliance.

I have an M5. Here are its suspension settings:

Component: front/rear

Spring Rate: 11.8/13.6
Shock Bound: 8/9
Shock Rebound: 8/9

I use this tuning at the Nurburging but consider it to be a blanket setting for all tracks in the game. I’m not claiming that these settings will make the car easy to drive; the inherent dynamics of any BMW require surgical accuracy to keep the car on the road at high speed. What I will claim however is that these shock and spring settings will give you an excellent compromise between compliance and cornering grip regardless of tire type, horsepower, or additional (but evenly distributed) downforce. I do use a custom limited-slip differential to stabilize the car during throttle liftoff and braking, but that conversation is for another day.

Spring Rate

The M5 is heavy, but fast. Its weight commands increased spring rates, but its ability to generate higher speeds mostly negates any benefit in doing so because you don't want to fly off the road. I use its spring rate as a benchmark when setting springs on other cars in the game, though I do take into account other vehicles’ differences in weight and speed. If another vehicle is lighter or heavier, I will decrease or increase the spring rate at the same percentage as the ratio between the two cars’ weights. If another vehicle is slower or faster, I would adjust the spring rate accordingly to achieve a compliant ride at top speed.

Weight Distribution

Because the Bimmer has a near 50%/50% weight distribution you’ll see that I set the front and rear suspension settings very similarly. From there, any difference is due to suspension geometry. If it were a front wheel drive, mid, or rear engine car I would adjust the ratio between front and rear spring rates to account for the difference in weight over each axle. In most cases this is 60%/40% or 40%/60%.

I hope that this guide has been quick, concise, and that you've learned or reaffirmed some of the wisdom included. Feedback is appreciated.

Cheers

Check out my Gran Turismo Tuning Guide App for the iPhone at http://www.gttuningguide.com
 
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Wow, who knew this could come from a New Member? 👍
 
Nice post! A good addition to the knowledge about GT4 springs and dampers.

A few questions please:
1) how do you determine ride compliance? Is it from the feel behind the wheel, or is there a trick using replays etc?

2) in your "Shock Bound" section, it says to adjust bound using the ride compliance. If the wheel is not acting as it should be, how do you know whether to increase or decrease the bound?

3) can you explain why you recommend double the rebound? Because of the scolling text? real life theory/experience? Some in-game testing?

Thanks,
Simon
 
I can answer most if not all of that myself nomis.

  1. It's done by watching replay and changing camera angles and such.
  2. You see whether the wheel is bouncing up into the wheel well, or if the wheel stays pretty stagnant and the car moves along.
  3. In game testing is the best way to work that out, but it's not a definitive guide, because some cars prefer to have very similar bound and rebound settings. You'll see quite a few in our garages that are set this way.

Hope that helps dude, and to daveyules.....that is one awesome guide dude. 👍
 
thanks to all of you guys for sharing my understanding of this topic, and thank you mafia_boy for your response. I wanted to add a few things...

As far as determining ride compliance, while driving, I rely on my observation of the car's up and down motion, particularly on jumps. I find that my setup provides the best ride compliance when my car lands from mid-air without bouncing back up off the pavement. if the car just squats and recovers you have a stable platform. I do find that landing jumps unevenly will innately cause undesired motions, but that does not mean that your settings aren't the best they can be.

The other way that I rely on, as mentioned by mafia_boy, is watching replays. before the first big jump at the nurburgring there is a very bumpy section. If my car can absorb those bumps without repetitively bouncing then my setup is golden.

Lastly, as far as the rebound setting, I remember reading somewhere (it might be even in the game) that typically rebound should be twice the bound setting. through my own testing, I've never disproved this piece of advice, but that may just mean that it's my preference.

Cheers guys. keep the dream alive.
 
I've made rebound (in some cases) weaker than bound. In other cases, I've made both rebound and bound the same, in other cases, I've set rebound approximately 2x as strong as bound (the game does suggest this). It all depends on the car and what's needing to be done with it. I would say PD's suggestion (rebound twice as strong as bound) is not always the best idea. Depends, though.
 
Thanks guys.

Sorry to bother you again, but I'm still a bit confused:
1 I've tried to view the wheels in a replay, but can't find the right camera. Is it an external camera? Normal mode? Synchronised mode? Display mode? Instructions for Dummies would be much appreciated!

2 When using the car's weight distribution to work out the % of front and rear springs, how do you set the overall stiffness? (eg how do you know if the springs should be 5/5 or 10/10)?

3 A bit off topic, but I'm keen for your thoughts on ride height. Once the spring rate is set, how do you determine the minimum ride height needed to avoid bottoming out the suspension?

4 Scaff's guide prefers to set the rebound before the bound. Just wondering, is there a reason you prefer to adjust the bound first?

Thanks heaps,
Simon
 
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Thanks guys.

Sorry to bother you again, but I'm still a bit confused:
1 I've tried to view the wheels in a replay, but can't find the right camera. Is it an external camera? Normal mode? Synchronised mode? Display mode? Instructions for Dummies would be much appreciated!

This is mafs' territory. I have no idea how he makes this work either.

2 When using the car's weight distribution to work out the % of front and rear springs, how do you set the overall stiffness? (eg how do you know if the springs should be 5/5 or 10/10)?

I usually pay attention to what the engine/drivetrain layout is, and then I further look up the real-life specs of various cars if I can find them. Cars with a front engine will usually have more weight up front, for instance...therefore I'll make the front springs stiffer. But then there's the Viper...a front engine/rear-drive car that (in real-life) has a 48/52 weight distribution front to rear.

Other than that, I just pay attention to how the car feels as I test-drive it. There's nothing scientific about this on my part, but I'm sure some of the actual tuners have methods they go thru.

3 A bit off topic, but I'm keen for your thoughts on ride height. Once the spring rate is set, how do you determine the minimum ride height needed to avoid bottoming out the suspension?

Again, nothing scientific on my part. If I'm driving around Suzuka or Twin Ring Motegi (mirror-smooth tracks) I'll lower the car somewhere between 75 and 100 mm, although some tunes I've borrowed from other tuners here (like the MFT Integra I just drove for the PD Cup) might have height much higher than this.

If I'm at a track like El Capitan or Nurburgring, the height gets raised. Somewhere over 125 mm.

4 Scaff's guide prefers to set the rebound before the bound. Just wondering, is there a reason you prefer to adjust the bound first?

Thanks heaps,
Simon


This one seems directed to daveyrules...I think. ;)
 
Thanks guys.

Sorry to bother you again, but I'm still a bit confused:
1 I've tried to view the wheels in a replay, but can't find the right camera. Is it an external camera? Normal mode? Synchronised mode? Display mode? Instructions for Dummies would be much appreciated!

Not a problem. When you are on "normal" or "display" mode, the pictures are the same. The only difference is that on "display", you get to see your speed and rpm. Now what you do is to hit "X" to be able to change your view from spectator view to car view. Now the following buttons cause the following things in replay mode.

Triangle = Zoom in (this only works in spectator view!)
R1 Button = Toggle between bumper, roof and chase cameras (only when in car view!!)
R2 Button = View Behind car on Right Side of car. (Car View)
L2 Button = View Behind car on Left Side of car. (Car View)
Left D-Pad = View the left side of the scenery....trees and what not.
Right D-Pad = View the left side of the scenery.....trees, etc.

Now the only way to really get to it is with the zoom feature but this is not a fullproof way.....sometimes it's just best to leave it at spectator view, not do anything and just focus on those wheels. 👍

2 When using the car's weight distribution to work out the % of front and rear springs, how do you set the overall stiffness? (eg how do you know if the springs should be 5/5 or 10/10)?

Like Parnelli said, with this a bit of car knowledge is needed about the real car for a guideline. You can adjust to those specifications, or stiffen/soften as needed.

3 A bit off topic, but I'm keen for your thoughts on ride height. Once the spring rate is set, how do you determine the minimum ride height needed to avoid bottoming out the suspension?

If it's for a road car build-up (like street spec), I actually follow the laws held in my home country which states that cars can't be lower than 100mm off the ground. If it's for a "trackday special" build or race car....then I look at the lowest I can go for a particular circuit because the ripple strips are different in size on some circuits compared to others.

4 Scaff's guide prefers to set the rebound before the bound. Just wondering, is there a reason you prefer to adjust the bound first?

While it's a daveyules directed question, the reason I personally do the bound first is that it gives me a good idea on how hard the wheel is going to go up into the wheel well. If it's too soft, then I only need to knock it up a notch or two. The rebound is a little different in that if it's too soft, it will actually skip along (ie, the wheels just bounce off the pavement and then bounce back up and smash into your wheel wells) but this also occurs if the rebound is too strong as the car doesn't get the bite it needs and it skips the car around while going around a corner rather than bouncing the wheel up....this is alright if you are on a very smooth circuit, but for most of the others you need to have a mid-point. A lot of my tunes feature 3/6 or even 3/9 on the bound/rebound because of the differences between cars and the circuits I race on.
 
3 A bit off topic, but I'm keen for your thoughts on ride height. Once the spring rate is set, how do you determine the minimum ride height needed to avoid bottoming out the suspension?

I forgot to say this earlier, but the numbers I use for ride height are more-or-less based on numbers I used for the orignal Gran Tursimo. And I've been running similar numbers in later games for years now.

In other words, cars in GT actually BOTTOMED OUT. Also, if you set a car too low, it actually would lose speed in this game, which could be a combo of a bottoming-out effect, as well as the tires rubbing into their wheel-wells. Bumpy tracks like Trail Mountain, Deep Forest, and Autumn Ring had this effect more than smoother tracks like High Speed Ring and Grand Valley if I remember correct.

For whatever reason, PD didn't program cars to bottom out at all in GT2 and GT3. 👎 Nor can lighter cars get up on two wheels during hard cornering like they did in GT, but that's another issue! :mad: In GT4, it's possible to make a car bottom-out (hence all the sparks when rolling over bumps and rumble strips) but there is barely as much of a speed penalty in this game like there was in the original GT. :(

Anyways, I came to the conclusion that setting a car higher than 120 or 130 mm or so (depends how light or heavy it is) minimized this bottoming-out effect in the original GT...hence I've been using these same numbers since then for bumpier tracks.

Cars with a front engine in my game will usually have the front-end lower than the rear to keep weight on those front tires (and keep grip mid-corner)...likewise, those cars with mid or rear engines (the ones that swing their rear around under hard cornering with minimal understeer) I'll lower the rear-end. However, NONE OF THIS IS SET IN STONE. I've tuned some FR cars with the front-end jacked up, if that's what it takes to make it do what I want it to do while racing. 💡

That's the main overall rule for me while tuning btw: nothing is set in stone. There is no overall "great" tune that'll work for every single situation (as some novices tend to boast). Some tunes may work great at one track, but feel horrible at another!

If it's for a road car build-up (like street spec), I actually follow the laws held in my home country which states that cars can't be lower than 100mm off the ground. If it's for a "trackday special" build or race car....then I look at the lowest I can go for a particular circuit because the ripple strips are different in size on some circuits compared to others.


.

Interesting! Is this law for tracks or pedestrian roads?
 
Pedestrian roads. Because it's a road car, I tune it up as such. Most of my road division cars at GME follow this mantra, even some race cars do too.

that's cool. The state that I live in (Maryland) has pretty strict rules for cars that get enforced via inspection. I'm not sure what the ride height has to be in my state, but I know bumpers have to be within a certain zone (historic cars exempted, of course). I'll ask one of the guys I work with how the guidelines work.

If you live in Pennsylvania or West Virginia on the other hand, the inspections are much lighter. I think all the lights on a car have to work, and a few other superficial rules like this, but otherwise these states are cake in comparison to Maryland.
 
Now the only way to really get to it is with the zoom feature but this is not a fullproof way.....sometimes it's just best to leave it at spectator view, not do anything and just focus on those wheels. 👍

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately I found that it's rare for the car to be going past the camera side-on, so I couldn't see how the wheel was moving around over the bumps. I wish there was a rewind and slow-motion feature in the replays, that would help heaps. Sigh. And I was really excited by the idea of being able to tune the bound independant of the rebound setting. Oh well, guess I'll stick to the "rebound is twice the bound" theory and adjust them together until it feels ok.

It would also make life easier if there was a clear indication of when the car is bottoming out. Even running low ride height with soft springs I couldn't see any sparks, so again we're stuck with "rules-of-thumb" and un-proveable theories... :yuck:
 
few more things to add...

I find that when studying my replays I focus more on the body of the car rather than the wheels. I usually just use the regular replay cameras, and as mafia_boy said, I use the zoom function as necessary.

as for overall stiffness, If I am losing control because the car gets airborne, I soften up the suspension. otherwise, make it as stiff as you can.

to figure out ride height, I will usually drive the car with its stock suspension and take note of how much the suspension compresses in certain corners. then I go back to my custom setup and lower the car until it compresses the same distance as stock. Sometimes with race cars however I keep an eye on the front splitter during braking to make sure that I'm not digging it into the ground. also, I commonly will set the rear ride height 5-10mm higher than the front because I believe that it does add down force and helps the car to rotate. in regard to bottoming out, if I see sparks at any time (other than running over rumble strips), I'll increase the ride height. if you don't see any sparks, keep lowering.

As far as setting shocks, I tend to set my springs first, then set my shocks to bound: 5 and rebound: 10. from there I'll check the ride compliance and adjust as necessary.

If you guys are interested in seeing a full setup (suspension and lsd, because they have the most affect on handling), I'll gladly post my setups for my VW GTI, RUF Yellow Bird, and BMW M3 Race Car. Otherwise if there are requests for any other cars I'll set em up and post em.

Cheers guys
 
I, for one, would like to see these tunes. I've tried the MFT Yellow Bird and the GME M3 Race car, so would like to see your offerings. What tyres are you using?
 
Car: 1987 RUF CTR "Yellow Bird"
Venue: The Nurburgring Nordschleife (Photo Drive)
Driving Aids: None

Stock:

As far as tuning is concerned. This car is brilliant from the factory. Its ride compliance is dead on, and the limited-slip at the rear stabilizes the car under acceleration. It commands however, somewhat of an acquired taste, mostly due to the fact that its driving experience is half bliss and half terror. If you'd prefer to survive, you only really need to follow one rule: brake early. If you carry too much speed into a corner, then lift off the throttle to slow down, you will be unpleasantly surprised as this car, by design, will carry you backwards into the nearest wall. The only way you can bring this car back to understeer at that point is to accelerate. Otherwise, you had better brake as long as possible before you hit a wall. With some practice you can master this car's unique characteristics and blow away the competition with your unsurpassed ability to accelerate.

Now to the custom tuning...

Purchased:

Racing Brakes
Brake Controller

Transmission: Full Customize
Clutch: Triple-plate
Flywheel: Racing
Limmited-slip: Full Customize

Suspension: Full Customize

Racing Tires: Hard

Weight Reduction: Stage 3
Increase Rigidity

Oil Change
Yokohama 011 wheels

Custom Settings (front/rear):

Brakes: 12/12

Spring Rate: 5.6/8.4
Ride Height: 102/116
Shock (Bound): 2/3
Shock (Rebound): 4/6
Camber Angle: 1.1/1.1
Toe Angle: 0/0
Stabilizers: 7/7

Transmission: Default

Initial Torque: 23
Acceleration: 12
Deceleration: 17

Explanation:

If you fully brake at the wrong moment you'll quickly find oversteer; not because the rear bias is too strong, but due to all the weight at the rear wanting to go faster than the front. If you brake moderately rather than fully in dicey situations you won't easily oversteer. Because this car is very fast and the nurburgring is very bumpy, in order to maintain stability at high speeds I set the springs nearly as soft as they could go. The ride height nearly matches the stock suspension's compression during cornering. Setting the front lower also provides added downforce. The shocks offer excellent ride compliance. As this car is very light, not much camber is required. I suppose you could set the rear to a slight to moderate toe in, but I didn't find it to be necessary. The stabilizers keep the car flat without having much affect on the car's horizontal oscillations. If there was ever a true mechanical partner for a porsche its a limited-slip. Setting it to maximum initial torque and maximum deceleration stabilizes the car extremely well during throttle lift-off and moderate braking.

Whereas my goal in tuning is for maximum stability, sometimes it cannot be fully achieved. This tune represents one of those cases. I enjoy this car's dynamic quirks, and appreciate the challenge of driving it. In other words, it's easy to crash. Be aware of the back end getting light, especially before jumps. If you're oversteering, give it throttle. If you're understeering, you're carrying too much speed into the corner. I drove this car around the ring in slightly less than 7 minutes.

I look forward to any feedback.

Cheers
 
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few more things to add...
I find that when studying my replays I focus more on the body of the car rather than the wheels
oh, ok.

Well then...
  1. You see whether the wheel is bouncing up into the wheel well, or if the wheel stays pretty stagnant and the car moves along.
Hey, maf do you have any secret method for seeing the wheel's initial stroke (to set the damper bound)

if I see sparks at any time (other than running over rumble strips), I'll increase the ride height. if you don't see any sparks, keep lowering.
Just wondering, do you ever see sparks on production cars? If so, which track?

I've been testing on the Nurburgring using lowest ride height and softest suspension (ie settings that are most likely to cause sparks) and have only ever seen sparks coming off F1 and Le Mans cars.
 
Pretty much every car can bottom out on the jumps at Costa di Amalfi, but I don't necessary take it into account when I set up my car's suspension; in real life I would avoid getting air over that jump to keep from destroying my car. I do remember seeing sparks at the nurburgring in a number of different places. I think a good example would be an M3 CSL because it can be substantially lowered, however I don't recall exactly what cars and setups will definitely bottom out. I have bottomed out with the f1 car at the nurburgring. maybe if you set your view during a replay to roof view facing rearward you'll catch it better.

cheers
 
Well then...

Hey, maf do you have any secret method for seeing the wheel's initial stroke (to set the damper bound)

If you shorten my name, use Mafs (pronounced as Marfs or Maths, either way works :lol: ) because that's what I've been known as for many years on and offline. :)

As to your question, not really nomis but you can see in a replay if the wheel does bounce up into the wheel well if it's been set too low. I've been doing it for that long that I can adjust the settings just from the feel of the car when I'm driving around nowadays.

For a guideline though, I set the bound at a soft to medium rate (usually 3 or 4) and then go from there. 👍
 
I wanna try out that RUF, daveyrules. Can't do it today, though.

nomis: Ginetta should bottom out at the 'Ring here and there.
 
Welcome to GTPlanet Daveyules!

I will definitely have to try your RUF CTR Yellow Bird.

Anything tuned by someone from Massachusetts must be great!

Your settings for the brakes and the LSD are interesting. I will let you know what I think.

And you know that I will take it to the 'Ring!:)

Respectfully,
GTsail
 
About the Shock Rebound being twice the Shock Bound... If i following a lot of the tunes, for instance from Lion's Den Performance, they really don't do it this way...

Their GT-R 09:
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 15.2/10.0
Dampers Extension: 6/6
Dampers Compression: 6/6

Dodge Challenger:
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 7.0/5.0
Dampers Extension: 5/4
Dampers Compression: 3/2

Camaro:
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 11.1/7.3
Dampers Extension: 7/5
Dampers Compression: 6/4

Audi RS6:
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 11.3/8.3
Dampers Extension: 7/6
Dampers Compression: 6/5
 
^ well these are tunes for GT5 but anyway your point is valid. I've seen plenty of good tunes that don't have rebound as 2x bound.

And I've never seen a good reason behind this rule-of-thumb so IMHO it can only be described at "some people prefer to use this as a starting point for damper tuning". (but if anyone has some reasoning behind the rule of thumb, I'm really keen to hear it)
 
Just downloaded your iPhone app Dave and look forward to having a play later.

I tend to keep the cars stock and adjust the driving style to meet the car.

My preferred feel is power understeer, turning in early and powering to the apex , through and beyond.

Most road cars will do this I find but I want to be able to set up race cars in this way as they're mostly "too pointy" for me.
 

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