RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

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SEMA 2007 Winner
HPA Motorsports FT565 Twin Turbo Audi TT Quattro 3.2 (8J)

Tuned to replicate HPA FT565
Comfort Soft to Sports Soft



Apricot Hill Raceway_93.jpg



CAR : 2007 HPA Motorsports FT565 Audi TT
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Soft


Specs
Horsepower: 565 HP / 573 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque : 499.7 ft-lb at 3000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1338 kg
Ballast : 121 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 61 / 39
Performance Points: 555



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or Standard size ENKEI RP03 in Papaya Orange
Car Paint : Stock



Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3



Suspension - HPA Tuned KW Version 3 Coilover Kit
Custom Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 115 125
Spring Rate: 7.30 5.90
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 3 10
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 2.0
Toe Angle: 0.10 0.10



LSD - HPA Upgraded Clutch Pack Tuned For Sport Haldex II

Front
Initial Torque : 7
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 15

Rear
Initial Torque : 7
Acceleration Sensitivity: 60
Braking Sensitivity: 15



AERO
Front/Rear = 150 ( MAX ) / 150


Syracuse_100.jpg



Brake Balance:
6/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/10, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 6/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The SEMA 2007 Gran Turismo Award winner, HPA FT565 Audi TT. This is simple replica build of Audi TT tuned by HPA, sporting twin turbo setup producing 565HP with 1.7 Bar boost, KW V3 Coilover Kit, tuned Sport Haldex II AWD system with upgraded clutch packs.

Suspension based on GT5 spring rate for stock suspension of HPA FT565, the rate is pretty close to MK1 Audi TT KW V3 kit, and GT5 stock rate tend to be closer to real car than GT6.

LSD has been tuned to work with Haldex II simulated by the stock torque split controller. The Sport tuned Haldex II by HPA is set to be more reactive and send more torque to the rear wheels. The full lock on accel for both axle LSD forces the torque split controller to be more aggressive ( the Haldex II is decently simulated which sends torque to rear wheels when front loses traction/wheelspin/different speed side to side )

To make the most of the Haldex II, brake deep into the apex, apply max turning lock possible, shift to lower gears, force the Haldex II to send more torque to the rear by applying throttle aggressively as early as possible from the apex. Out in out, deep apex, explosive exit.


The unique 4 wheelspin on standing start launch can be done as well on CS tire.

Optional : To free up the car if needed, use zero toe front and rear, increase front ride height to 125 ( same as rear ).

Tested at Tsukuba on CS tire, able to lap in 1:01s and Apricot Hill Reverse at 1:32s. Another test run at Midfield, the HPA FT565 is capable of 1:17s lap on CS.

 
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I don't know why this happens, I have loged in to PSN throught the Track Path Editor, might work now. I assume you are logged in to PSN as well. Please let me know when you succeed downloading it:(:)
I'll start up my PS3 and play GT6 if that'll do the job

I have succeeded in logging in and downloaded the track, to be honest it was weird to drive, the off camber turns were rather extremes and though the general layout is similar, it's far cry from the actual track :( It's just the limitation of the track path editor :( I have driven some cars on the track, the Amuse Z33 is okay there, but the stiff suspensions bounces on some parts of the track :lol:
 
Ugh... I boxed up my PS3 because I wasn't using it anymore and I needed the space. Otherwise, I would have loved to do the Aventador SV comparison. Darn... What are people getting for times around the full Red Bull Ring with the Ridox Aventador SV setup? I can at least try to see if I can match it with my Assetto Corsa car.

I'm still learning how to drive this car properly. It's just so fast...but also very heavy! You get on the gas hard, but next thing you know your foot is to the floor on the brake pedal because you're about to shoot right through a corner! Frightening...

I'll go run a few laps and see what I can get for a time - then I'll post it here. Keep in mind I am FAR from a good driver in Assetto Corsa. :(
 
Just aim for 1:40s or less with 100% track grip condition with hypercar tire, I got 1:37s on CS in GT6, 1682kg/42:58, offline, online with tire wear/fuel, would be 1:38s.

I will be posting Pagani Huayra soon :) This one is slightly slower than Aventador SV at Red Bull Ring, but the acceleration is insane :lol:
 
Okay. Thanks Ridox. I gotta remember to put track grip on 100%. I usually run with the setting called "Fast" which can vary between like 95-99%.

BTW, Assetto Corsa finally updated that god awful website of theirs which still showed the pre-release tiny list of cars. Here is the list of cars that will be coming to the Playstation/XBox editions of Assetto Corsa:

http://www.assettocorsa.net/cars/

Actually, that's not even the complete list because it's missing the Ferrari 488 GTB, the new Audi S1 and a couple of other cars, like the Praga R1. But, it's 99% of the cars. Boy, I hope you guys get it. I would be in heaven being able to drive with you guys again!
 
I have succeeded in logging in and downloaded the track, to be honest it was weird to drive, the off camber turns were rather extremes and though the general layout is similar, it's far cry from the actual track :( It's just the limitation of the track path editor :( I have driven some cars on the track, the Amuse Z33 is okay there, but the stiff suspensions bounces on some parts of the track :lol:
Okay I see:) I made a track long ago with more camber angle turns, and I learned that when you do replica tracks and I can make sharp hairpin turns, it do crazy stuff, so in general I turn to use little camber as it work better regarding elevation changes. I hope you can adapt to use it Ridox:).
I highly recommend to try my Mugello track, and my Phillip Island Circuit, also my Bilster Berg Drive Resort track. BTW, nice work on the HPA:cheers:
 
Okay I see:) I made a track long ago with more camber angle turns, and I learned that when you do replica tracks and I can make sharp hairpin turns, it do crazy stuff, so in general I turn to use little camber as it work better regarding elevation changes. I hope you can adapt to use it Ridox:).
I highly recommend to try my Mugello track, and my Phillip Island Circuit, also my Bilster Berg Drive Resort track. BTW, nice work on the HPA:cheers:
I have both, your Mugello and Philip Island tracks saved. Despite the fact that tbe course maker is very limited from a topographical point of view, they are pretty close matches. I really like Mugello, it still has some of the character of the IRL track...even if some of the hills are in the wrong places :banghead: Much better than the other one I found :)

Not really tried a lot of the new replicas yet. The Amuse Z is getting a good run out later, love that car :D. A lot of comparisons to do with that Aventador SV too. I've only tried it with all aids off so far and the thing is pure savage :scared:
 
PAGANI Huayra 2011

Tuned to replicate Pagani Huayra 2011
Comfort Soft to Racing Medium


Red Bull Ring_11.jpg




CAR : Pagani Huayra '11
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Medium


Specs
Horsepower: 718 HP / 728 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque: 737.7 ft-lb at 2500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1425 kg
Ballast : 75 kg
Ballast Position : 11
Weight Distribution : 44 / 56
Performance Points: 613




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Azzuro Nuvola Iridescente


Tuning Parts Installed :
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes Kit


Suspension - Avional Inboard Springs/Damper
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 85 90
Spring Rate: 13.96 9.50
Dampers (Compression): 3 7
Dampers (Extension): 2 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 1.6 1.9
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.18




DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION -Xtrac
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed to 430kmh / 267mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.200
2nd 2.050
3rd 1.470
4th 1.120
5th 0.880
6th 0.740
7th 0.640
Set Final Gear : 3.070


LSD - Xtrac 2 Way
Initial Torque : 30
Acceleration Sensitiviy: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 20


AERO
Front/Rear = 80 ( Fixed ) / 200 ( Fixed )


Red Bull Ring_13.jpg



Brake Balance:
3/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 )with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

Simple replica build using various data collection sources. Tested at Red Bull Ring, capable of 1:38s on CS tire.
 
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Bleh... 1:40.383 is my best lap in the Aventador SV so far, Ridox. I ran 7 laps - 4 of them were DQ. I haven't put together a single lap yet where I actually hit my intended braking and/or turn-in points. I'll stop for now and give it another try a little bit later. You were pretty much always 2-3s per lap faster than me when I played GT6 exclusively, so I'm not surprised you're kicking my butt still! :lol:

My Aventador SV is 1650kg (1484kg sprung - 166kg unsprung) plus 30 liters of fuel. Surprisingly, we don't get a weight distribution unless it's provided in the car's text description. I was driving in totally stock mode, which means ABS and Traction Control are both turned on. I rarely drive with TC turned off in this game. The Aventador SV has 2 TC modes. For those first set of laps I was running with the more intrusive TC setting. When I re-run the laps I will lower TC to a more racing friendly level of TC. I'll even try some with TC completely off, but I'm sure I will be awful with it totally turned off. I never activate Stability Control on ANY cars. Even Stefano, the head programmer/owner of Kunos says that Stability Control is not a real type of stability control - it's probably more like Skid Recovery Force - totally lame.

Disc brake temperatures haven't been enabled for this car yet, but there is so much other realtime telemetry available if you wanted to tweak this thing. Actually, while they don't tell me exactly the weight distribution, I suppose I could figure it out by parking the car on perfectly flat ground and pulling up the tire loads telemetry preset. It gives you the realtime load of all 4 tires - so just add the front tires load (or rear tires load) and then figure out the percentage compared to overall weight.
 
Bleh... 1:40.383 is my best lap in the Aventador SV so far, Ridox. I ran 7 laps - 4 of them were DQ. I haven't put together a single lap yet where I actually hit my intended braking and/or turn-in points. I'll stop for now and give it another try a little bit later. You were pretty much always 2-3s per lap faster than me when I played GT6 exclusively, so I'm not surprised you're kicking my butt still! :lol:

My Aventador SV is 1650kg (1484kg sprung - 166kg unsprung) plus 30 liters of fuel. Surprisingly, we don't get a weight distribution unless it's provided in the car's text description. I was driving in totally stock mode, which means ABS and Traction Control are both turned on. I rarely drive with TC turned off in this game. The Aventador SV has 2 TC modes. For those first set of laps I was running with the more intrusive TC setting. When I re-run the laps I will lower TC to a more racing friendly level of TC. I'll even try some with TC completely off, but I'm sure I will be awful with it totally turned off. I never activate Stability Control on ANY cars. Even Stefano, the head programmer/owner of Kunos says that Stability Control is not a real type of stability control - it's probably more like Skid Recovery Force - totally lame.

Disc brake temperatures haven't been enabled for this car yet, but there is so much other realtime telemetry available if you wanted to tweak this thing. Actually, while they don't tell me exactly the weight distribution, I suppose I could figure it out by parking the car on perfectly flat ground and pulling up the tire loads telemetry preset. It gives you the realtime load of all 4 tires - so just add the front tires load (or rear tires load) and then figure out the percentage compared to overall weight.

I expected just below 1:40s for AC Aventador SV compared to GT6, you are not that far :) I got into 1:37s by maximizing braking point/distance, the GT6 SV has probably better acceleration above 110mph ( less aero drag ) and shift time also seems to be very fast ( possibly faster than AC SV ), while cornering grip/sped should be similar ( GT6 CS vs AC Hypercar Tire ), considering the weight is already close to each other.

I can understand with SC being artificial, the real car SC system is complicated and interconnected unity, from steering, brakes, wheel sensors, engine and other various sensors ( Haldex controller, G's sensors ). To simulate all that, each car in a car sim will have to be built in many interconnected sim objects, from chassis, body, suspension parts, wheels, brakes, engine, transaxle, diff, steering, aero parts, electrical systems ( ECUs, assists ), tires and a global parameters ( weight, cog, cod, mechanical grip, etc )
Each part will need to have fluid interactive properties so the simulated assist like Stability Control can be at least somewhat realistic in operation ( brake fade/strength, steering forces, engine loads affected by atmosphere/altitude as well throttle response, tire heat/load, differential load/wheel speed changes etc )

If a car game is a one car simulator, that may be doable :D, a comprehensive simulator of Aventador SV, right down to the Drive modes.

Does brake fade in AC in the last update ?
 
Sadly, brake temperature is only activated on like 3 cars right now. The Ferrari 488 GT3, Maserati GranTurismo MC GT4 and the Maserati Levante (the first SUV in AC). The variables are there, but the physics guru for Kunos is a guy named Aris and he has to go through all of the cars and enter the appropriate settings for each car so that the sim calculates brake temperature properly. I really hope that adding brake fade doesn't totally cripple most of the street cars. Racing brakes are obviously built to withstand the high temps of repeated high speed braking. Street car brakes, not so much... I haven't driven the Maserati Levante enough to see how quickly one could toast those brakes.

In about 3-4 hours I'm going to be able to run some more laps in the Aventador SV around Red Bull Ring. I know that I'll be able to knock off at least 1 full second. I'm over driving the car into corner #2 90% of the time and even corner #1 I haven't been able to consistently hit a perfect turn-in.
 
Sadly, brake temperature is only activated on like 3 cars right now. The Ferrari 488 GT3, Maserati GranTurismo MC GT4 and the Maserati Levante (the first SUV in AC). The variables are there, but the physics guru for Kunos is a guy named Aris and he has to go through all of the cars and enter the appropriate settings for each car so that the sim calculates brake temperature properly. I really hope that adding brake fade doesn't totally cripple most of the street cars. Racing brakes are obviously built to withstand the high temps of repeated high speed braking. Street car brakes, not so much... I haven't driven the Maserati Levante enough to see how quickly one could toast those brakes.

In about 3-4 hours I'm going to be able to run some more laps in the Aventador SV around Red Bull Ring. I know that I'll be able to knock off at least 1 full second. I'm over driving the car into corner #2 90% of the time and even corner #1 I haven't been able to consistently hit a perfect turn-in.
Hello mate. It's good to see you around these parts again :) 👍
There's a very good chance you may be seeing me join the AC converts sometime in the future. I'm not impressed at all with the direction PD are taking GT & in all honesty, I'm probably done :irked:

On to brakes. Brake fade is something I've wanted to make an appearance in one of these games/simulations since day 1. It's one thing to go ten tenths for a banzai lap and a completely different prospect stringing together a stint in an endurance race with brakes that work when you pull into the pits to end your stint.

You know Bathurst from GT6 & how it's been going for over 50 years so I'll use that as an example. Back in the 60's, there were cars that were done before lap 5 thanks to tiny drum brakes that were on the pension by lap 3. Even the Aussie muscle cars with 9 or 10" front discs had to be nursed until the tyres & fuel depleted or you may as well retire the car.
Advancements over time see us these days with a choice of brake pad materials, aftermarket brake packages for all sorts of budget (would Sir like one or two piece rotors?), dedicated racetrack hardware that you have to warm up before they'll work properly and, Carbon fibre available for road or race cars now.

In a nutshell: depending on how much you want to spend, brake fade is something some of us never have to worry about.
 
You're absolutely correct Pete! When my brother bought his M4 he opted for the carbon ceramic brakes option. They were a pretty steep premium, but totally worth it - especially when taking it out for a full track day beating. You can always tell which M4's have the carbon ceramics because they get the gold BMW calipers. They don't offer a different color and you can't request gold calipers if you're not getting the carbon ceramic upgrade option.

I will be so thrilled if you end up playing Assetto Corsa. If Ridox has a laptop or desktop that could run AC I would pay for his copy! He would be in heaven tweaking the cars to his specifications. It's the least I could do after all the enjoyment he's provided me with his Ridox Replica's... Currently there is not an "official" laser scanned Bathurst track in Assetto Corsa, but I wouldn't be surprised if it appears some day. Thankfully, there is a very, very good user created mod version of Bathurst. I drive it often. It is definitely one of my favorite tracks...probably Top 5 if I really put serious thought into it.

Oh, you might be interested in reading about this, Ridox. We just got the 2015 Ferrari SF15-T Formula 1 car. I guess that car has some insane hybrid system called "Ferrari’s Tipo 059/4 Power Unit". I won't even try to explain anything more in this post its too complex for me to understand right now. Although, I haven't even tried to understand it yet. LOL F1 cars are just too fast for me... Check out what Kunos has done, programming wise, to implement their version of the Tipo 059/4 Power Unit. The first three posts in the link below are from the Car Physics Guru of AC:

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...rrari-sf15-t-power-unit-driving-advice.34454/

I've only done 3 laps with this car without using any of these features/power unit and it's like a rocket. A rocket I can't control. Using the power unit controls must be absolutely insane.
 
You're absolutely correct Pete! When my brother bought his M4 he opted for the carbon ceramic brakes option. They were a pretty steep premium, but totally worth it - especially when taking it out for a full track day beating. You can always tell which M4's have the carbon ceramics because they get the gold BMW calipers. They don't offer a different color and you can't request gold calipers if you're not getting the carbon ceramic upgrade option.

I will be so thrilled if you end up playing Assetto Corsa. If Ridox has a laptop or desktop that could run AC I would pay for his copy! He would be in heaven tweaking the cars to his specifications. It's the least I could do after all the enjoyment he's provided me with his Ridox Replica's... Currently there is not an "official" laser scanned Bathurst track in Assetto Corsa, but I wouldn't be surprised if it appears some day. Thankfully, there is a very, very good user created mod version of Bathurst. I drive it often. It is definitely one of my favorite tracks...probably Top 5 if I really put serious thought into it.

Oh, you might be interested in reading about this, Ridox. We just got the 2015 Ferrari SF15-T Formula 1 car. I guess that car has some insane hybrid system called "Ferrari’s Tipo 059/4 Power Unit". I won't even try to explain anything more in this post its too complex for me to understand right now. Although, I haven't even tried to understand it yet. LOL F1 cars are just too fast for me... Check out what Kunos has done, programming wise, to implement their version of the Tipo 059/4 Power Unit. The first three posts in the link below are from the Car Physics Guru of AC:

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...rrari-sf15-t-power-unit-driving-advice.34454/

I've only done 3 laps with this car without using any of these features/power unit and it's like a rocket. A rocket I can't control. Using the power unit controls must be absolutely insane.

I wish I have a powerful desktop PC :( or laptop, I'm on tight budget now, so spending more than $ 500 for a console or PC build is out of question :( My old dinky laptop can run LFS, but that's about it.

I can't access that page as I'm not AC forum member, but I know the kind of details to expect for a hybrid power management suite. I was a hardcore PC flight sim addict when I was young, and complicated functions, button presses to execute a simple task are the norm on flight sim. I had a buddy with FSX and IRIS packs, I used to play with F14 TOMCAT IRIS, and starting the engine, taxing to take off in that plane is a journey, then the avionics and dogfights with MIGs and Sukhois :drool: :P

An F1 car may be complicated but not as much as a jet fighter like F14 or F15 :), unless the F1 car also have torque split + vectoring system, fully active suspension and aero parts, or variable assisted steering :lol: :D

By the way, does in AC when a car has tire blow out/flat, you can see the tires that loses pressure flexing when stopping and the whole dynamic interaction is simulated, say one left rear wheel is flat on FR car, and the rear LSD simulated realistically when driven ? I really like LFS tire and suspension physics, it's one of the best IMO. The only F1 car in LFS is BMW F1, the old one, and it's nice to drive even with keyboard !! :D The tire feels and looks like rubber, fat chewy rubber that claws, snap and skate :P
 
Ah, I didn't know they blocked the pages like that. I put the 110kb pdf in a link below if you're interested in reading when u have free time. This stuff is just way over my head. A simple button press for KERS and a button for DRS I can handle. This stuff is just baffling to me.. Thank god I don't give a crap about that car.

Hmm. To be honest, I don't know a heck of a lot about blown tires in AC. I don't know if I've ever blown a tire before. Their is tire wear, of course, along with blistering and graining and if you lock 'em up you'll create flat spots. Flat spots look funny when you have the tire temperature app on screen. The rest of the tire is at a much lower temp than the flat spot rubber, so you see the flat spot flash by over and over, simulating a revolving tire.

I do remember driving a pretty crummy mod car and I absolutely thrashed the tires from a lock-up and then sliding the car sideways for a long, long way (it was downhill). The visual indicator was fire red and the car wouldn't even drive, basically. I know I didn't blow the engine, but I can't tell you exactly what happened to my tires. I was frustrated and quickly called up "Back to the Pits" where they automatically put new tires on for you, though you can see the final three temps of the tire, the air pressure while cold & warm and the percentage of graining and percentage of blistering. I'll try to find a good answer for you.

http://www.filedropper.com/ferrarisf15-t --

EDIT: I saw your Pagani Huayra time at Red Bull Ring posted above. I'll give that a try as well once I've given up on the Aventador SV. I'm sure I'll be a good 2-3 seconds behind you, like always!! :lol:

EDIT 2: Visually, I think rFactor 2 has way nicer tires. Their flex is awesome and I think it's just a more mature, more sophisticated tire model. Kunos is still relatively young compared to Image Space Incorporated...I have faith they will get it much better in time.
 
Ah, I didn't know they blocked the pages like that. I put the 110kb pdf in a link below if you're interested in reading when u have free time. This stuff is just way over my head. A simple button press for KERS and a button for DRS I can handle. This stuff is just baffling to me.. Thank god I don't give a crap about that car.

Hmm. To be honest, I don't know a heck of a lot about blown tires in AC. I don't know if I've ever blown a tire before. Their is tire wear, of course, along with blistering and graining and if you lock 'em up you'll create flat spots. Flat spots look funny when you have the tire temperature app on screen. The rest of the tire is at a much lower temp than the flat spot rubber, so you see the flat spot flash by over and over, simulating a revolving tire.

I do remember driving a pretty crummy mod car and I absolutely thrashed the tires from a lock-up and then sliding the car sideways for a long, long way (it was downhill). The visual indicator was fire red and the car wouldn't even drive, basically. I know I didn't blow the engine, but I can't tell you exactly what happened to my tires. I was frustrated and quickly called up "Back to the Pits" where they automatically put new tires on for you, though you can see the final three temps of the tire, the air pressure while cold & warm and the percentage of graining and percentage of blistering. I'll try to find a good answer for you.

http://www.filedropper.com/ferrarisf15-t --

EDIT: I saw your Pagani Huayra time at Red Bull Ring posted above. I'll give that a try as well once I've given up on the Aventador SV. I'm sure I'll be a good 2-3 seconds behind you, like always!! :lol:

EDIT 2: Visually, I think rFactor 2 has way nicer tires. Their flex is awesome and I think it's just a more mature, more sophisticated tire model. Kunos is still relatively young compared to Image Space Incorporated...I have faith they will get it much better in time.

Thanks, got the pdf, read it, pretty simple IMO, it's balancing act depending on the track and driver. The time consuming part is creating an optimum profile for each track and session ( qualify and race ), as well as special profile for special case ( aggressive mode for last half of the race while assuming using low mode for first half to suit wet track that started to dry halfway, etc ) The profiles are a bit long to digest, but the concept is easy to understand, it's like running NOS strategy for each gear or variable turbo boost profile based on RPM and gear position, only this time is more complicated with fuel usage limit, energy regen + usage limit and how the profile based more on the throttle position, not just gear position :P

One way to blow the tire is to run extreme temp + load, you should be able to see visually the tire deformed when flat, the car should still can travel at low speed, what's interesting is how the tires behaved in this condition :D There's should still be that flexing rubber feel going against the wheel and the very low traction it can give.

Do you have the RX7 car in AC ? Try run 20% lower pressure on one of the rear tires, and see how the rear torsen LSD react, there should be some torque steer and flexing tire there :P
 
Yes. I have the RX7...Great car! Ohh, you should have seen the arguments in the official forum about the "rear wheel steering" of the RX7... LOL People were losing their minds on both sides of the argument. Finally, Aristotelis (physics guy for AC) came in to explain what's going on with the car in AC:

It's not an active rear steering. Simply put, there are bushings in the suspension that depending on the load, bend in one way or another, slightly steering the wheels about 0.3° against the front steering wheel angle if the g's are less than 0.5g, or at the same front steering wheel angle if the g forcers are superior to 0.5g
There is no way to simulate this with bump steer, you need the have both rear wheels steering to the same direction and the opposite depending on the load. We can now simulate this.

EDIT: since the effect is cool but not so precise (and passive) it is usually eliminated from tuned cars with harder bushings. As a matter of fact our tuned RX7 car doesn't have it. We did some homework ;)

On the contrary, R34 system is active. It turns the rear wheels differently depending on the front steer, g forces, yaw angles etc.


And then in an additional post:

Just to clarify. The FC had massive amounts of passive rear steering (by massive I mean 1.5° degrees, always small) and was also actively promoted by marketing as it was the era's high achievement (copied by Porsche 928 system).

The FD (the one we simulate) has a much much MUCH more limited rear steering, just 0.3°...tiny. It wasn't even marketed by Mazda. But it adds a bit of character to the car. There's indeed a lot of confusion if you do the simple google search on the car about that rear steering. We obviously have some extra resources.

BTW, all of these DLC cars, like the RX7 will all be standard issue for the console release. So, console players are saving about $50 compared to what PC users have had to spend to get everything so far. I'm glad they're doing it that way.

The stock RX-7 Spirit R is a great car, but they also gave us a Tuned RX-7 with 444bhp and 398Nm of torque. That thing rocks! :D Same with the Toyota Supra MKIV. They gave us a Supra MKIV Drift car and then a Tuned Turbo Supra with 690bhp and 756Nm torque!!! It's so awesomely fast... :lol:
 
Yes. I have the RX7...Great car! Ohh, you should have seen the arguments in the official forum about the "rear wheel steering" of the RX7... LOL People were losing their minds on both sides of the argument. Finally, Aristotelis (physics guy for AC) came in to explain what's going on with the car in AC:

It's not an active rear steering. Simply put, there are bushings in the suspension that depending on the load, bend in one way or another, slightly steering the wheels about 0.3° against the front steering wheel angle if the g's are less than 0.5g, or at the same front steering wheel angle if the g forcers are superior to 0.5g
There is no way to simulate this with bump steer, you need the have both rear wheels steering to the same direction and the opposite depending on the load. We can now simulate this.

EDIT: since the effect is cool but not so precise (and passive) it is usually eliminated from tuned cars with harder bushings. As a matter of fact our tuned RX7 car doesn't have it. We did some homework ;)

On the contrary, R34 system is active. It turns the rear wheels differently depending on the front steer, g forces, yaw angles etc.


And then in an additional post:

Just to clarify. The FC had massive amounts of passive rear steering (by massive I mean 1.5° degrees, always small) and was also actively promoted by marketing as it was the era's high achievement (copied by Porsche 928 system).

The FD (the one we simulate) has a much much MUCH more limited rear steering, just 0.3°...tiny. It wasn't even marketed by Mazda. But it adds a bit of character to the car. There's indeed a lot of confusion if you do the simple google search on the car about that rear steering. We obviously have some extra resources.

BTW, all of these DLC cars, like the RX7 will all be standard issue for the console release. So, console players are saving about $50 compared to what PC users have had to spend to get everything so far. I'm glad they're doing it that way.

The stock RX-7 Spirit R is a great car, but they also gave us a Tuned RX-7 with 444bhp and 398Nm of torque. That thing rocks! :D Same with the Toyota Supra MKIV. They gave us a Supra MKIV Drift car and then a Tuned Turbo Supra with 690bhp and 756Nm torque!!! It's so awesomely fast... :lol:

The DTSS on FC was well known back in the day, many RX7 forums discussed this in detail :) It's not technically steering, but toe out in low load to toe in in high load cornering, hence the name Dynamic Tracking Suspension System.
There's no need for extra resources to know the details, just go to RX7 specialist tuner/garage in forums, and they will tell everything about it, including eliminating it or setting up for track use :D No offense to Aris :P

The Super HICAS system on the other hand, is a lot more complicated, and detailed workings is harder to get information ( I only have the basic strategy for Super HICAS- from my past experience ), unless one can get the rare documentations ( more likely in japanese ) or met with someone who have experience servicing/removing/controlling it with special device.

The ATTESA and SUPER HICAS are both system that I doubt Kunos can do well, as both are very sophisticated active system with dynamic nature in operation based on many variables like driver input, tire, track condition, wheel speeds, G's load. The Hybrid system in Ferrari F1 is simpler in comparison as it has profiles and set values for rate of regeneration for example, 2MJ full charge on each lap needs 16.7s braking. It's like adding extra engine power source that works using input/output rate based on throttle + gear position.
 
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Geez.. That's all stuff that shoots way over my head! :boggled:

I was able to try about 5 more laps around Red Bull w/Aventador SV.. I still haven't cracked 1:40s yet! :mad: What kills me is, the fastest posted time on Radiator Springs Racing (a very popular leaderboard "plugin" for AC) using the SV with the base tires, not Trofeo, is 1:36!! And I can't even break 1:40! :dunce:

http://www.radiators-champ.com/RSRLiveTiming/index.php?page=rank&track=4406&car=3402&rank_type=all&tyre_type=Hypercar+road+(HR)&controller_type=all&community=all&friends=all
 
Geez.. That's all stuff that shoots way over my head! :boggled:

I was able to try about 5 more laps around Red Bull w/Aventador SV.. I still haven't cracked 1:40s yet! :mad: What kills me is, the fastest posted time on Radiator Springs Racing (a very popular leaderboard "plugin" for AC) using the SV with the base tires, not Trofeo, is 1:36!! And I can't even break 1:40! :dunce:

http://www.radiators-champ.com/RSRLiveTiming/index.php?page=rank&track=4406&car=3402&rank_type=all&tyre_type=Hypercar+road+(HR)&controller_type=all&community=all&friends=all

1:36s :eek: that would be alien time ? Going over curbs on some of the sharp turns ? An alien could do 1:36s in GT6, so that makes it even :lol:

slightly steering the wheels about 0.3° against the front steering wheel angle if the g's are less than 0.5g, or at the same front steering wheel angle if the g forcers are superior to 0.5g

By the way, the Kunos statement about FC and FD RX-7 passive system is not accurate :) The suspension camber/toe changes under dynamic loads, the system simply stabilize the car by having toe out on low load cornering ( under 0.5 G ), and toe in on higher load cornering ( above 0.5 G ), while keeping camber changes minimum ( factory FD RX7 alignment has both axle toe in for example ) The description is misleading :)

This is the correct DTSS FC RX-7 description that is well written by a RX7 Club forum member :

"Mazda added what is called the camber-control link (the inner arm of the "y" formed by the trailing arm), the geometry of which is designed to virtually eliminate camber change under compression. Straight forward enough there, as extreme camber gain, leading to loss of contact patch, is part of why semi-trailing arm suspensions are known for snap oversteer.

The second element, which is both tricky in the sense of clever engineering, and in the sense of tricking skilled drivers attempting to drive at the limit, involves toe control, through what's called the "floating hub". This is where the DTSS bushings come in. The hub has three connection points to the trailing arm, the 2 rear-most of which form an axis which allows the hub to rotate the wheel/tire thu a small range of toe-in (rear wheels track slightly towards the centreline of the car) to toe out, through controlled deformation of the forward-most link, the DTSS bushing at the lower front of the hub. Under braking or acceleration, the geometry and deflection are such that the hub will rotate to slight toe in, which is a good thing, as it promotes stability and keeping the rear end behind the front. Again, keep in mind that traditional semi-trailing arms tend to behave oppositely under acceleration and braking(both in toe in and toe out, and camber gain/loss). So this is a big improvement, maintaining the more stable toe-in configuration under both conditions, rather than suddenly changing from one to the other as one does when going from acceleration to braking, and vice-versa (which happens a lot in racing ).

The floating hub and DTSS bushing also allow changing toe control under cornering, changing from slight toe out below ~.5g, thru neutral at ~.5g (assuming your rear alignment is correct), and increasing to progessively more toe-in at higher cornering loads, which is inherently more stable. At below .5g (most cornering and lane changes in street driving), the slight toe-out enhances the sensation of responsiveness. Note, this is more of a sensation, as what happens is the rear tires describe a slightly larger arc than what they would otherwise, but begin building slip angle sooner rather than lagging very slightly behind the fronts which initiate the turn.This communicates to the driver as enhanced agility or responsiveness, but would be inherently unsafe at higher cornering loads, because the rear tires are trying to describe a larger arc than what they should - which is the beginning of a a spin if not corrected. Transitioning to toe in at higher loads means mild but safe, predictable understeer at higher cornering speeds, while at lower speeds/loads. the driver gets to feel a sensation of near instant responsiveness to steering inputs."

As you can see, the system is passive and do not technically steer, but dynamically alter the toe angle of the wheel depending on the load.

It has unique trait as well, that can be easily tested if Kunos did the homework well - snap oversteer ( most real FC owner/driver who have driven on the limit will have encountered it ), and it has the most effect on the FC RX-7 as it uses different suspension type than the FD. The FD3S RX-7 has a new name for the system ( I hope Kunos knows the name :P ), and it uses double wishbone on both axle ( 4 wheel DGCS ), a big change from McPherson strut/semi trailing arm DTSS on FC RX-7.

The FD RX-7 DGCS works on all 4 wheels, unlike FC which only works on rear wheels, this also makes the FD a lot more stable and better handling as both end has the toe control system.

The dynamic toe control also employed on Mazda Miata (NA,NB,NC) and RX8, it's a suspension design feature.
 
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Hi, i tried your AE86 tune, great fun around Bathurst, got 2:37.9 with ABS 0,5.375 diff and grip damper,DS3, is this fast? just wondering what time you get, i usually use ABS 1 but this car dosent need it at all even with the 5 7 BB. Hard to find good tunes that work without ABS
 
Hi, i tried your AE86 tune, great fun around Bathurst, got 2:37.9 with ABS 0,5.375 diff and grip damper,DS3, is this fast? just wondering what time you get, i usually use ABS 1 but this car dosent need it at all even with the 5 7 BB. Hard to find good tunes that work without ABS

I haven't tried the AE86 at Bathurst :) On what tire did you drive the 2:37.9s lap ? How's the rear end handling ?

I will be updating some Mazdas as I recently went through my old books and found some infos for the LSD :D
 
Regarding rear wing in GT5 adding 20 and GT6 20, that's interesting, maybe GT6 20 is indeed 200 ( another bug :banghead: ) I've installed many rear wing at 20 in GT6, the top speed reduction is minimal, will need more testing.

Yeah, defo needs more testing. I'm beginning to wonder if downforce in GT6 is not absolute number, just like dampers. Case in point, the Peugeot RCZ has a really high rear downforce (IIRC higher than FXX and some supercars). That's just ridiculous on a street car like that. Then there's also Senna's F3 which has 4 digits downforce compared to the Formula GT which only has 700/900. For touring cars, most of the cars ported from GT4/5 have their old values (plus added zero behind), but GT3 that are new to GT6 have much higher rear max downforce than front (e.g. compare standard R8 LMS and premium R8 LMS Ultra).

It's gonna be hard to test without hacking the cars though. I'm thinking pick a car with 200 stock rear downforce. Test top speed and use telemetry to check ride height at v-max. Then hack it to have 0 rear downforce. Repeat tests. Then hack a GT Auto rear wing to add 20 rear downforce. Repeat tests and compare all 3 results.

I'm hoping with GTS PD will update all cars' values so they are at least equivalent. Otherwise it's just too confusing for tuning. Better still have a virtual "wind tunnel" ala NFS ProStreet where you can see the drag and downforce changes with each wing adjustment you make :D I think LFS has this feature too (you can even set the rolling speed variably).

With regards to AC tyre model, their newest DLC cars are now V10 tyre model. Other cars are V7 but Kunos will update all of them in the next patch. The feeling of rubbery-ness is much improved with V10. But I still think LFS has the edge on the rubbery feeling specifically. Weight transfer FFB is about equal in both. However, environmental FFB is better in AC so I'd say overall AC FFB is better than LFS now. Another sim you should look into is Automobilista. It's based on ISImotor (rFactor engine) but they have tweaked it to absolute perfection. If you can run LFS you should be able to run it (albeit at low graphics probably). The latest update added Pneumatic Trail effects into the FFB and it also makes the car feel all rubbery now :D Not sure how much of that will transfer if you're using a joypad though. So I guess there are 3 sims that are trading blows in terms of FFB at the moment: LFS, Automobilista and AC. PCARS is slightly below those 3 from what I tested briefly. The only other contenders are rFactor 2 and iRacing, both of which I haven't tried. There's also RRRE, but that game is microtransaction hell so I'm not touching it.

Your Huayra is next on my list to try ;)
 
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MAZDA RX-8 Type S '07 EIBACH / Best Motoring + 2004 & 2011

Tuned to replicate Mazda RX-8 Laguna Seca Time Attack Best Motoring
Motoharu Kurosawa "Gan-San" Lap Record




CAR : Mazda RX-8 Type S '07
Tire : Comfort Medium


Specs - Curb Weight
Horsepower: 247 HP at 8500 RPM
Torque : 161.7 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.4%
Weight: 1379 kg
Ballast : 69 kg
Ballast Position : -11
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as the real car spec when tested ( closer to 51/49 )
Performance Points: 424

Specs - Lowest Curb Weight JP Spec
Horsepower: 247 HP at 8500 RPM
Torque : 161.7 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.4%
Weight: 1310 kg
Ballast : 0 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 428

Specs -Optional- US 2004 Model Year Spec
Horsepower: 238 HP at 9100 RPM
Torque : 161.7 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.1%
Weight: 1379 kg
Ballast : 69 kg
Ballast Position : -11
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 420

Specs -Optional- US 2011 Model Year ( Sport/GT/R3 )
Horsepower: 232 HP at 8000 RPM
Torque : 161.7 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 93.7%
Weight: 1391 kg
Ballast : 81 kg
Ballast Position : -30
Weight Distribution : 52 / 48 as the real car spec based on US brochure.
Performance Points: 417



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Sunlight Silver Metallic ( same as tested by Motoharu Kurosawa )




Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Carbon Drive Shaft ( the real car has one from factory )




Suspension - EIBACH PRO-Street-S Height Adjustable Coilover Kit 300/250 Spring Set with Bump Stop ( FRONT 1"-3" / 25mm-102mm & REAR 0"-2.5" / 0mm-64mm Drop Range)
Street/Track Sports Alignment Range
Stock Ride Height + Aggressive Track Alignment for Time Attack

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 140 140
Spring Rate: 5.36 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 3 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 2
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5 ( Front camber : -0.45 +- 1.00, Rear Camber : -1.44+-1.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.16 ( Front Toe In : 0.11 +- 0.21, Rear Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.20 )


Suspension - EIBACH PRO-Street-S Height Adjustable Coilover Kit 300/250 Spring Set with Bump Stop ( FRONT 1"-3" / 25mm-102mm & REAR 0"-2.5" / 0mm-64mm Drop Range)
Street/Track Sports Alignment Range
Stock Ride Height + Street Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 140 140
Spring Rate: 5.36 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 3 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 2
Camber Angle: 0.5 1.5 ( Front camber : -0.45 +- 1.00, Rear Camber : -1.44+-1.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.11 0.16 ( Front Toe In : 0.11 +- 0.21, Rear Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.20 )


OPTIONAL Factory Street Alignment for Standard Suspension :
Front
Camber : -0.40 +- 1.0
Total Toe In : 0.11 +- 0.21

Rear
Camber : -0.56 +- 1.0
Total Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.20



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - US Spec 2004 Model Year Type S 6 Speed Manual
OPTIONAL - Used on Pre Production RX8 at the Time Attack driven by Motoharu Kurosawa

Set Default
Set Final to 4.444
Set Auto Max Speed at 310kmh / 193mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.760
2nd 2.269
3rd 1.645
4th 1.187
5th 1.000
6th 0.843
Set Final :4.444


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - US Spec Type S 6 Speed Manual - OPTIONAL
2011 Model Year US Spec RX8 ( Sport / GT / R3 )

Set Default
Set Final to 4.444
Set Auto Max Speed at 310kmh / 193mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.815
2nd 2.269
3rd 1.536
4th 1.177
5th 1.000
6th 0.787
Set Final :4.777


LSD - Mazda Super LSD ( TORSEN Conical LSD )-BASE 2:1 TBR with 49 Nm Initial Torque

Initial Torque : 13
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 13


LSD - Mazda Super LSD ( TORSEN Conical LSD ) - OLD Original Version / OPTIONAL

Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 15


Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Mazda RX8 is the successor to the famous RX7 line of FR sports car. With new RENESIS engine and NA only, the RX8 offers great balance chassis, good power delivery with styling that never gets old.

The RX8 in this replica is based on official power of 247HP SAE ( JP spec 250PS ) or 240 HP DIN / US and 1379kg curb weight without driver. Weight distribution at 50/50, closer to 51/49 based on corner weight, so I have put ballast position to reflect this. I have also added 2011 US Spec Power and weight + distribution - the last model year, the 6 speed ratio for the 2011 US model has also been included.

As the stock real car spring rate is way too low, it's not possible to replicate in GT6 :grumpy: Stock spring rate :

Front : 27N/mm or 154lbs/in
Rear : 19N/mm or 109lbs/in

I then decided to use EIBACH PRO Street S Height Adjustable Coilover Kit with Bump Stop. The Kit offers large range of height adjustments, the front can drop up to 3 inch/102mm and rear up to 2.5 inch/64mm. The spring rate are : front 52 N/mm or 300 lbs/in and rear 44 N/mm or 250lbs/in. The spring rate offers excellent balance for track and street, providing good response on low speed corners with the optimized medium damper and stiff ARB. The alignment used is based on MAZDASPEED Sports Suspension Package Alignment Range. I have setup aggressive camber at the front to allow better handling around Laguna Seca. An optional Street Aligment setup has also been provided, this offers better balance for cruising and high speed curve spirited driving.

Gearing is stock and the same as in real life ( JP spec ), while LSD has been tuned to reflect real life Mazda Super LSD installed on Type S 6 Speed Manual. The LSD provides good response and traction on comfort medium ( stock factory tire : Dunlop SP Sport 8090 91W Rated ). The 6 Speed Manual ratio differs on 3rd gear between JP and US 2004 Type S, the 3rd gear for JP is 1.539, while for US is 1.645. As this is JP spec replica as a base, I included the US spec 2004 + 2011 gearing as optional - the Time Attack run by Motoharu Kurosawa uses US Pre Production spec RX8 with JP spec engine + 2004 US spec gear ratio, shift up to 3rd from 2nd red line will bring engine at 7K RPM.

The RX8 was mainly tested and tuned at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring, Streets of Willow and Laguna Seca. The main aim is to replicate Motoharu Kurosawa lap record during Best Motoring Time Attack at 1:50.70s. The Eibach Pro S RX8 is capable of 1:48s on CM tire ( 1st lap ) - using aggressive track alignment and curb weight spec + gear ratio/stock ratio :D I have included a replay of the run and a video of the real life lap - inboard cam with digital speedo shown. Watch the replay and compare the speeds around corners and straights :P

If you want closest to the Pre-Production RX8 used on the Best Motoring Time Attack in 2003, use the curb weight spec (247HP/1379kg/50:50) or the OPTIONAL 2004 Model Year US Spec ( 238HP/1379kg ) + 2004 US Gear Ratio.


Motoharu Kurosawa "Gan San" Best Motoring Laguna Seca Time Attack - Mazda RX8



UPDATE July 2016 : Added LSD, the Mazda RX8 uses Super LSD ( Torsen conical type with initial torque ), TBR 2:1 and 49 Nm initial torque. The Super LSD also used on Miata starting in 2003 replacing the old Torsen Type II, this Super LSD is still in use even on the new Miata ND


Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
400PP Version

Special Build 400PP Miata NC
Comfort Medium to Sports Hard




CAR : Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
Tire : Comfort Medium to Sports Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 182 HP / 185 PS at 6900 RPM
Torque: 148.2 ft-lb at 5400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.5%
Weight: 1152 kg
Ballast : 52 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 52 / 48
Performance Points: 400


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Cyberia Blue


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Catalytic Converter Sports
Fully Customizable Suspension
Twin or Triple Plate Clutch Kit - OPTIONAL - Triple INSTALLED
Carbon Drive Shaft - OPTIONAL - INSTALLED



Suspension - MAZDA OEM Springs/Damper Adapted
Base Street/Track Soft Damper/Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 3.50 3.02
Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 2 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.5
Toe Angle: -0.07 0.07



LSD - Mazda Super LSD ( TORSEN Conical LSD )-BASE 2:1 TBR with 49 Nm Initial Torque

Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 15



Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


This is basic 400PP Miata NC build based on replica, adapting stock Mazda OEM springs, as GT6 can't get low enough, I used the ratio. Damper has been setup to be soft like the real car do, the front damper has been setup to give more safety close to the limit.

LSD and gear ratio are stock as they are well performing, while clutch and driveshaft are optional upgrades ( installed on my car ) to give slight edge competing in races.

The Miata can win on seasonal race at Midfield against 500PP cars on CS tire. The Miata tested at variety of tracks, Midfield, Apricot Hill Reverse, Motegi Road and Autumn Ring Mini. On CM tire at Autumn Ring Mini, it did 46s lap with ease.

For damper, you can fine tune the front and rear extension yourself, increase either end, and drive it at Autumn Ring Mini or your favorite track, make a note of the effect at either end. I suggest to increase front or rear to 10, try each and then increase both to 10. You should notice how max extension on either end affect the car balance under braking, on throttle turning and exit.

At Motegi, this damper works nicely :

Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 3/4/5 2

Use front extension either 3 or 4 or 5, don't recommend more than 5. The effect can easily felt on 1st turn, the esses up hill and the tight right before the downhill run.

Experiment, and have fun, the base damper is balanced for a Miata on CM tire.

UPDATE July 2016 : Added LSD, the Mazda Miata NC uses Super LSD ( Torsen conical type with initial torque ), TBR 2:1 and 49 Nm initial torque. The Super LSD also used on Miata starting in 2003 replacing the old Torsen Type II, this Super LSD is still in use even on the new Miata ND

Both Mazda has been updated with Super LSD setup, the Tochigi Fuji Sangyo Super LSD uses cone and spring arrangement, enabling creation of initial torque/preload. The Super LSD uses low Torque Bias Ratio for controllability at 2:1 with 49 Nm initial torque for improved stand still starting, straight ahead driving, and accel/decel response. The Tochigi Fuji Sangyo is now owned by GKN Driveline, and the new Mazda Miata ND uses Super LSD, using GKN name. If you have a game with the new Mazda Miata ND, look for the LSD, it should reflect TBR and initial torque values for accuracy :P

Yeah, defo needs more testing. I'm beginning to wonder if downforce in GT6 is not absolute number, just like dampers. Case in point, the Peugeot RCZ has a really high rear downforce (IIRC higher than FXX and some supercars). That's just ridiculous on a street car like that. Then there's also Senna's F3 which has 4 digits downforce compared to the Formula GT which only has 700/900. For touring cars, most of the cars ported from GT4/5 have their old values (plus added zero behind), but GT3 that are new to GT6 have much higher rear max downforce than front (e.g. compare standard R8 LMS and premium R8 LMS Ultra).

It's gonna be hard to test without hacking the cars though. I'm thinking pick a car with 200 stock rear downforce. Test top speed and use telemetry to check ride height at v-max. Then hack it to have 0 rear downforce. Repeat tests. Then hack a GT Auto rear wing to add 20 rear downforce. Repeat tests and compare all 3 results.

I'm hoping with GTS PD will update all cars' values so they are at least equivalent. Otherwise it's just too confusing for tuning. Better still have a virtual "wind tunnel" ala NFS ProStreet where you can see the drag and downforce changes with each wing adjustment you make :D I think LFS has this feature too (you can even set the rolling speed variably).

With regards to AC tyre model, their newest DLC cars are now V10 tyre model. Other cars are V7 but Kunos will update all of them in the next patch. The feeling of rubbery-ness is much improved with V10. But I still think LFS has the edge on the rubbery feeling specifically. Weight transfer FFB is about equal in both. However, environmental FFB is better in AC so I'd say overall AC FFB is better than LFS now. Another sim you should look into is Automobilista. It's based on ISImotor (rFactor engine) but they have tweaked it to absolute perfection. If you can run LFS you should be able to run it (albeit at low graphics probably). The latest update added Pneumatic Trail effects into the FFB and it also makes the car feel all rubbery now :D Not sure how much of that will transfer if you're using a joypad though. So I guess there are 3 sims that are trading blows in terms of FFB at the moment: LFS, Automobilista and AC. PCARS is slightly below those 3 from what I tested briefly. The only other contenders are rFactor 2 and iRacing, both of which I haven't tried. There's also RRRE, but that game is microtransaction hell so I'm not touching it.

Your Huayra is next on my list to try ;)

Aero is confusing in GT6 :lol: look at the NISMO GTR LM, it has massive front aero :P I can't hack or do hybrid in GT6 as I don't have CFW PS3 :( Tuning aero now, I tend to run as low as possible, as in most cases, the lowest aero often already provides immense grip at high speed. I have a theory that aero in GT6 at least includes the car CD ( drag coefficient ), and CLF ( lift coefficient ) for basic aero simulation, not sure if frontal area and CD*frontal area also included in calculation.

What's strange, on super cars with stock 200 rear aero, adding rear wing only adds 20 more, 220 max, and the effect almost can't be felt.

JDM cars with adjustable rear wing like R34 GTR Vspec Nur and MAzda RX7 Spirit R has adjustable rear aero in GT6 with 80 max value, these 80 aero can be felt easily, although GT6 aero drag is still lacking. I've compared the acceleration above 180kmh and top speed of the stock R34 GTR nur on both GT5 and GT6 at La Sarthe no chicane, and GT5 is much more realistic with max rear aero as GT6 R34 is faster accelerating above 180kmh and top speed is higher by more than 10kmh ( if I remember it right, it was done months ago )

Amazing what LFS could do with only a few people making it :) For FFB, I don't have a wheel, and it's unlikely that I will buy one for PS4 or PC, so I'll probably never know. The yard stick for me would be on pad/controller and how the physics perform on the cars as well as data accuracy.

Does the RX7 Spirit R in AC has rear torsen ? I'm refining my Spirit R replica in GT6, it grips well even on CH :eek:
If you have time, try this with the RX7 Spirit R ( stock road car ), drive until the car reach optimum tire and brake temp, take a corner at optimum possible cornering speed ( max load ), lift off the throttle then dab the brakes ( light pressure ), make a note on how both front and rear tracks as the dynamic toe works.
 
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I haven't tried the AE86 at Bathurst :) On what tire did you drive the 2:37.9s lap ? How's the rear end handling ?

I will be updating some Mazdas as I recently went through my old books and found some infos for the LSD :D
CS tyre for lap, i found the handling loose but predictable, which is how i like them. easy to catch slide. i also tried it at 500 pp ss tyre for 2:22 lap but i think i could do better than that
 
The Huayra is perfect Ridox :bowdown: I am very familiar with this car because it's my control car (drove it after every update, just to see if PD changes any physics). Tuned to 650 PP my Huayra on SS can do 2.06 at Ascari previously. With your tuning it goes 2.04 in the first lap. So much easier to drive on the limit 👍

Also re-tested the Aventador, with more rear bias it's a lot more stable surprisingly. Guess you need that weight for traction after all. The Car & Driver specs feel closest to AC for me. Using OHLINS setup (not AC suspension), low preload and Corsa dampers. Only thing that's off is braking is a bit weak in GT6, so I bumped up BB to 4/5 and it's bang on. I did 1.40 in AC and 1.38 in GT6, which is what you expect with the physics. Top job 👍

Aero is confusing in GT6 :lol: look at the NISMO GTR LM, it has massive front aero :P I can't hack or do hybrid in GT6 as I don't have CFW PS3 :( Tuning aero now, I tend to run as low as possible, as in most cases, the lowest aero often already provides immense grip at high speed. I have a theory that aero in GT6 at least includes the car CD ( drag coefficient ), and CLF ( lift coefficient ) for basic aero simulation, not sure if frontal area and CD*frontal area also included in calculation.

What's strange, on super cars with stock 200 rear aero, adding rear wing only adds 20 more, 220 max, and the effect almost can't be felt.

JDM cars with adjustable rear wing like R34 GTR Vspec Nur and MAzda RX7 Spirit R has adjustable rear aero in GT6 with 80 max value, these 80 aero can be felt easily, although GT6 aero drag is still lacking. I've compared the acceleration above 180kmh and top speed of the stock R34 GTR nur on both GT5 and GT6 at La Sarthe no chicane, and GT5 is much more realistic with max rear aero as GT6 R34 is faster accelerating above 180kmh and top speed is higher by more than 10kmh ( if I remember it right, it was done months ago )

Actually the higher front aero for NISMO GTR LM should be correct. The car is very front heavy, front tyres are wider than rear and the venturi tunnels at the front produce most of the downforce. It's a front biased car, the rear end is basically just there to hold the 2 rear wheels :lol: On the other end of the spectrum, you have the DeltaWing, which is a rear biased car. Rear heavy, wide rear tyres, diffuser produce most of the downforce. IIRC it has like 400/1500 downforce levels in GT6.

PD definitely improved the aero calculations in GT6. I remember in GT5 you just max out front/rear and that will be fastest. Now you have to test the balance carefully. High speed drag is still too lacking though - the only thing that's better simulated in GT5.

Drag CD I think it is modelled in a rudimentary way. There was a bug in the early version of GT6 where you can have 500 HP on a Daihatsu Move, and it can reach speeds of 360+ km/h :eek: Now on most bigger cars you'd need way more than 500 to reach those speeds. And if you take the Dodge Ram with 500 HP you won't even break 300 km/h I think :lol:

Yes, I remember the R34 and RX7 in GT5 had 8 rear aero. If you buy rear wing it becomes 28 max. In GT6 it has 80 stock, and 100 max with rear wing. I'm too lazy to dig out my GT5 copy to do tests though :P

I wonder if the higher top speed is due to wheelie effect? Raising front ride height and maxxing out rear downforce will cause car's top speed to increase beyond normal means in GT (this glitch has been present all the way back since GT2).

Anyway, I'm sure this is all due to PD haven't finished updating all the cars' physics. With GTS I have high hopes since they are starting over that everything will be built to the same standard.

Does the RX7 Spirit R in AC has rear torsen ? I'm refining my Spirit R replica in GT6, it grips well even on CH :eek:
If you have time, try this with the RX7 Spirit R ( stock road car ), drive until the car reach optimum tire and brake temp, take a corner at optimum possible cornering speed ( max load ), lift off the throttle then dab the brakes ( light pressure ), make a note on how both front and rear tracks as the dynamic toe works.

You mean torsen diff? No idea, AC doesn't tell you LSD type specifically. I could try looking into in game files for you.

I can test the RX7. What changes specifically am I expecting? From reading your explanation of DTSS above I expect slightly more responsive rear at <0.5G, neutral at 0.5G, and more stable rear at >0.5G when cornering on the limit? With such small toe changes I doubt if I can't feel anything meaningful though. Toe in AC is already quite dynamic (even just stationary you can see the values wobbling on telemetry). I'm also still learning in AC so my confidence and sensitivity when pushing cars to the limit isn't as good as GT6 :P
 
CS tyre for lap, i found the handling loose but predictable, which is how i like them. easy to catch slide. i also tried it at 500 pp ss tyre for 2:22 lap but i think i could do better than that

I drove the AE86 for a few laps at Bathurst on CS, not really pushing it, and did around 2:40s, so yeah, 2:37s is quick :P

The Huayra is perfect Ridox :bowdown: I am very familiar with this car because it's my control car (drove it after every update, just to see if PD changes any physics). Tuned to 650 PP my Huayra on SS can do 2.06 at Ascari previously. With your tuning it goes 2.04 in the first lap. So much easier to drive on the limit 👍

Also re-tested the Aventador, with more rear bias it's a lot more stable surprisingly. Guess you need that weight for traction after all. The Car & Driver specs feel closest to AC for me. Using OHLINS setup (not AC suspension), low preload and Corsa dampers. Only thing that's off is braking is a bit weak in GT6, so I bumped up BB to 4/5 and it's bang on. I did 1.40 in AC and 1.38 in GT6, which is what you expect with the physics. Top job 👍



Actually the higher front aero for NISMO GTR LM should be correct. The car is very front heavy, front tyres are wider than rear and the venturi tunnels at the front produce most of the downforce. It's a front biased car, the rear end is basically just there to hold the 2 rear wheels :lol: On the other end of the spectrum, you have the DeltaWing, which is a rear biased car. Rear heavy, wide rear tyres, diffuser produce most of the downforce. IIRC it has like 400/1500 downforce levels in GT6.

PD definitely improved the aero calculations in GT6. I remember in GT5 you just max out front/rear and that will be fastest. Now you have to test the balance carefully. High speed drag is still too lacking though - the only thing that's better simulated in GT5.

Drag CD I think it is modelled in a rudimentary way. There was a bug in the early version of GT6 where you can have 500 HP on a Daihatsu Move, and it can reach speeds of 360+ km/h :eek: Now on most bigger cars you'd need way more than 500 to reach those speeds. And if you take the Dodge Ram with 500 HP you won't even break 300 km/h I think :lol:

Yes, I remember the R34 and RX7 in GT5 had 8 rear aero. If you buy rear wing it becomes 28 max. In GT6 it has 80 stock, and 100 max with rear wing. I'm too lazy to dig out my GT5 copy to do tests though :P

I wonder if the higher top speed is due to wheelie effect? Raising front ride height and maxxing out rear downforce will cause car's top speed to increase beyond normal means in GT (this glitch has been present all the way back since GT2).

Anyway, I'm sure this is all due to PD haven't finished updating all the cars' physics. With GTS I have high hopes since they are starting over that everything will be built to the same standard.



You mean torsen diff? No idea, AC doesn't tell you LSD type specifically. I could try looking into in game files for you.

I can test the RX7. What changes specifically am I expecting? From reading your explanation of DTSS above I expect slightly more responsive rear at <0.5G, neutral at 0.5G, and more stable rear at >0.5G when cornering on the limit? With such small toe changes I doubt if I can't feel anything meaningful though. Toe in AC is already quite dynamic (even just stationary you can see the values wobbling on telemetry). I'm also still learning in AC so my confidence and sensitivity when pushing cars to the limit isn't as good as GT6 :P

Good news on the Huayra, thanks mate.


:bowdown: thank you for the effort on the Aventador, really happy that it can get close to AC, which is commendable for PS3 game.
GT6 should be slightly quicker as the shift speed and low aero drag on higher speed should make the car reach higher trap speed on high speed braking point - lower lap times, oh, not forgetting the tire heat model in GT6 is out of this world :lol:

True, the GT6 aero around corners, braking and accelerating is much better than GT5, the only problem is the drag :P Lowering a sports car which has some aero bits like NSX-R ( NA2 ) from stock height, gives that feel of the underside being much stickier to the road in GT6 - you can try the Keiichi Tsuchiya NSX-R, I'm testing new damper that I may update later :)
Maybe someday there will be sim that can make you feel that the car is tearing through the air, fighting the resistance as wind blows, air pressure variation, and downforce used on the car.

For RX7, I have 3 model replica on finishing touch, series VIII FD RS, Type R and Spirit R Type A, it's amazing how GT6 almost spot on at Tsukuba against real life lap onboard cam ( from shift point, braking point to trap speed on braking ). The power is around 320+PS, which is very close to real car stock dyno figures on optimal condition ( temp and fuel ).

The RX7 Spirit R has all 4 wheel dynamic toe system, so when going through high load G turns, when you let go the gas in sudden fashion and apply sudden light braking, the car would hesitate in tracking the line as the toe in going away, could get loose without warning if the rear gets upset enough by the sudden toe change, as the high slip angle occur and grip lost, the car would slide or oversteered, this is when the dynamic toe will go toe out as the load on the outside is diminishing. This is also the moment when most driver will instinctively to counter steer, a good driver will not over correct, try to follow through. The FD is less abrupt in this situation than the FC, smoother in recovery as well, sometimes applying full gas while correcting works, while the FC could snap without warning. The higher the grip limit of the tire, the more the effect of toe changes can be felt, so in AC if you fit semi slick on RX7 Spirit R, you should feel the outside tire goes toe out/loose when reducing the load on them, the car will still be predictable with no sudden surprises unlike FC RX7.
 
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Amuse 350Z LightWeight Spec
HOT VERSION FR CHALLENGE WINNER vs AMUSE S2000 Orange Touge Monster
EBISU EAST Course


Tuned to replicate Amuse Z33 Lightweight

Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


amusez33-jpg.567961
Having been bitten by the BMI bug after trying out the Orange Touge Monster and Keichii Tsuchiya's personal NSX-R last year. I have watched quite a lot of the videos on Youtube over the past year or so, including one certain video where this car made the Amuse S2000 (Orange Touge monster) look decidedly average around the Ebisu Circuit. So when I saw this post pop up, I had to try it out.

I took this out to a few tracks to see how it went. First off to Sierra....
Circuito de la Sierra.jpg


My initial impressions round here was that this is one exceptionally balanced car. I have spent quite a lot of time round this track in the car selected to base this build on, the Amuse/Opera 350Z RS, both in stock form and with a few different variants I have been working on so I kind of knew what to expect when I hit the track.
To start off with I found it brakes well and enters corners with ease, was really well balanced through them and then on exit, it had a tenancy to spin up the rears and get a nice easy to control drift out the corners. At first I didn't think too much about it other than blaming my heavy thumb for hitting the gas button too hard.....then I realised I added the ballast to the wrong end of the car :banghead: :dunce:. After I sorted out my mistake :rolleyes: I went back out and found that corner entry felt even better, mid corner performance increased and exit was just perfect. It was actually quite hard for me to even initiate a drift afterwards. (However that didn't stop me taking it to the current Racecar/tuner drift trial at Laguna Seca sticking on the CS tyre and give it a go there too. Ended up coming up just short of the gold total, so I dropped to CMs and nailed it right out of the box. Thanks for the easy 2=million credits Ridox :D :cheers:.)

After a few laps on Sierra it was off to see how close I could get to your 1:21 here...
Circuito di Roma_4.jpg

Well it deals with the cobbled track here with no problem at all and it only took me 6 laps to see a 1:21 pop up in the corner :) a high 1:21 mind you, but it's a lot closer than I usually manage to get to your testing times and I put that all down to how easy this car is to get use to and how well balanced it is.

I know Amuse's goal for this car was to make what was built and marketed as a luxury car into a sports car and they definitely managed to achieve that goal. You also did an incredible job in doing the same. My final test was to take on the Orange Touge Monster in a head-head battle. I wanted to go somewhere that had a variety of corner types and didn't have too many high speed sections that would favour the more powerful Z33, so I settled on Ascari. After running 3 laps each with SH tyres on both, the Amuse Z33 Light-Weight had a 3 second advantage in lap-time in my hands. Mostly the corner exit was the defining factor. The S2000 handles well but I think the Z33 is just that next step up, despite carrying almost 200kg more it just felt like the better handling car. I can't find a single fault with it and I even enjoy it as much on the CS tyre as with the SH.....didn't even see the need to try the softer SM rubber and you know I like the sticky stuff ;).

If the community spotlight was still up and running I'd be sending my recommendation for this one for sure, it's a real special build my friend :bowdown:. Many thanks for this one :cheers:.
 
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Having been bitten by the BMI bug after trying out the Orange Touge Monster and Keichii Tsuchiya's personal NSX-R last year. I have watched quite a lot of the videos on Youtube over the past year or so, including one certain video where this car made the Amuse S2000 (Orange Touge monster) look decidedly average around the Ebisu Circuit. So when I saw this post pop up, I had to try it out.

I took this out to a few tracks to see how it went. First off to Sierra....View attachment 569812

My initial impressions round here was that this is one exceptionally balanced car. I have spent quite a lot of time round this track in the car selected to base this build on, the Amuse/Opera 350Z RS, both in stock form and with a few different variants I have been working on so I kind of knew what to expect when I hit the track.
To start off with I found it brakes well and enters corners with ease, was really well balanced through them and then on exit, it had a tenancy to spin up the rears and get a nice easy to control drift out the corners. At first I didn't think too much about it other than blaming my heavy thumb for hitting the gas button too hard.....then I realised I added the ballast to the wrong end of the car :banghead: :dunce:. After I sorted out my mistake :rolleyes: I went back out and found that corner entry felt even better, mid corner performance increased and exit was just perfect. It was actually quite hard for me to even initiate a drift afterwards. (However that didn't stop me taking it to the current Racecar/tuner drift trial at Laguna Seca sticking on the CS tyre and give it a go there too. Ended up coming up just short of the gold total, so I dropped to CMs and nailed it right out of the box. Thanks for the easy 2=million credits Ridox :D :cheers:.)

After a few laps on Sierra it was off to see how close I could get to your 1: here...View attachment 569811
Well it deals with the cobbled track here with no problem at all and it only took me 6 laps to see a 1:21 pop up in the corner :) a high 1:21 mind you, but it's a lot closer than I usually manage to get to your testing times and I put that all down to how easy this car is to get use to and how well balanced it is.

I know Amuse's goal for this car was to make what was built and marketed as a luxury car into a sports car and they definitely managed to achieve that goal. You also did an incredible job in doing the same. My final test was to take on the Orange Touge Monster in a head-head battle. I wanted to go somewhere that had a variety of corner types and didn't have too many high speed sections that would favour the more powerful Z33, so I settled on Ascari. After running 3 laps each with SH tyres on both, the Amuse Z33 Light-Weight had a 3 second advantage in lap-time in my hands. Mostly the corner exit was the defining factor. The S2000 handles well but I think the Z33 is just that next step up, despite carrying almost 200kg more it just felt like the better handling car. I can't find a single fault with it and I even enjoy it as much on the CS tyre as with the SH.....didn't even see the need to try the softer SM rubber and you know I like the sticky stuff ;).

If the community spotlight was still up and running I'd be sending my recommendation for this one for sure, it's a real special build my friend :bowdown:. Many thanks for this one :cheers:.

I'm speechless :eek: I never thought the car would be this good, really thankful for the kind words and the review is very well written, love the pictures too, sort of magazine article about a tune :P

Not sure why the bi weekly community spotlight is gone, but it's an honor to know that my work is worthy to be nominated :P

Speaking of cars, the Keiichi Tsuchiya NSX-R is undergoing damper update now, going to test it further, it will be added as alternative setup, the original NSX-R may also be updated as well, I have Suzuka East video lap driven by Keiichi Tsuchiya back when NSX-R was released. The car was tested against the NA1 NSX-R which I will drive as well at the East layout.

Once again, thank you for the support, having people enjoying my work is what keeps me going :D
 
I'm speechless :eek: I never thought the car would be this good, really thankful for the kind words and the review is very well written, love the pictures too, sort of magazine article about a tune :P
I assure you the pleasure is mine. I like to put in a little effort when doing reviews. If I can't make any suggestions to improve the tune or to aid a tuners understanding of certain aspects (and let's be honest, not much chance of me teaching you anything any time soon :P) the least I can do is try and make it a little entertaining :).
Not sure why the bi weekly community spotlight is gone, but it's an honor to know that my work is worthy to be nominated :P
It was postponed due to lack of interest a while back...perhaps because T-12 was fed up handing you TOTW trophies :lol:

Speaking of cars, the Keiichi Tsuchiya NSX-R is undergoing damper update now, going to test it further, it will be added as alternative setup, the original NSX-R may also be updated as well, I have Suzuka East video lap driven by Keiichi Tsuchiya back when NSX-R was released. The car was tested against the NA1 NSX-R which I will drive as well at the East layout.
I did see you comment on this in a previous post. I look forward to trying your tweaks out 👍
 
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