RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

  • Thread starter Ridox2JZGTE
  • 5,032 comments
  • 876,730 views
I'm pretty sure we used one of your Nissan Z setups for a race in the fan club group. It brought me my very first win in the group! :D It might have had something to do with everybody else getting into trouble/chain-reaction bumping on the first lap, but we don't talk about that part... :lol:

danbojte is right. There is such a good balance with your Z tunes (both 350 & 370). I don't remember which is the one I preferred - my memory sucks and there were just too many damn cars in my garage to keep track of. Still, I loved both of them. Really were a pleasure to drive and drive hard! :cheers:

@ALB123 Yes, very pleasant memories. Good days to remember. 👍 :)

Well, I have a surprise soon, the premium 350Z version S, I haven't posted this car yet :) The Nismo Best Motoring spec did 1:24s at Rome on CS, with 1600+kg and mere 308HP :) Very planted, I'm stoked when I tried it at Rome, feels weird but fun :D

Also, there will be 3 in 1 build, Ford GT, I should have posted this long ago with the Matech GT3 :) Got some solid infos that have been improving the car.
 
Wow! You have been building cars like a madman lately!! I'm jealous I can't even try them anymore... :grumpy:

I may have some questions about the Devil Z and some of the other cars, like the, Keiichi Aizawa 'Monster Machine' Toyota Supra RZ '97, Oki from Hakone "The Touge Ace" Mazda RX7 Spirit R Type A '02 and then definitely the Tatsuya Shima RUF CTR Yellowbird "Blackbird" '87.

Now that we have a Toyota Supra and Mazda RX7 Spirit R available - and I've always had a Yellowbird I can paint black - I might give recreating those cars a go. Obviously, I would refer to your replica builds for all the data you've already listed for each car, but I'm sure I would have a lot more questions.

I've been in discussions with a couple other guys because there's no way I could handle this all by myself. Nothing is set in stone, but we have agreed that they should be Wangan Midnight rides. :cool: I remember your Blackbird came with like 3 different tunes - for varying amounts of power - the 800hp Blackbird was insane! :lol: :D
 
Nissan Fairlady 350Z Z33 2002 / 2007

Tuned to replicate 350Z 2002 / 2007
Comfort Medium to Comfort Soft / Sports Hard


Z33.jpg




CAR : Nissan Fairlady Z Version S (Z33) '07
Tire : Comfort Medium to Comfort Soft / Sports Hard


Specs Best Motoring 2002 - Comfort Medium
1:09.72 ( Damp ) / 1:09.06 ( Dry ) at Tsukuba

Horsepower: 283 HP / 290 PS at 5900 RPM
Torque: 272.3 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 88.5%
Weight: 1532 kg
Ballast : 186 kg
Ballast Position : -2
Weight Distribution : 53 / 47
Performance Points: 444


Specs Best Motoring 2007 - Comfort Soft
1:07.87 at Tsukuba

Horsepower: 308 HP / 313 PS at 7100 RPM
Torque: 272.3 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.5%
Weight: 1545 kg
Ballast : 199 kg
Ballast Position : -15
Weight Distribution : 54 / 46
Performance Points: 453

Specs NISMO 2007 Car & Driver - Comfort Soft
Horsepower: 308 HP / 313 PS at 7100 RPM
Torque: 272.3 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.5%
Weight: 1521 kg
Ballast : 175 kg
Ballast Position : -6
Weight Distribution : 53 / 47
Performance Points: 454

Specs NISMO 2008 Best Motoring - Sports Hard / S Tire
1:06.66 at Tsukuba

Horsepower: 308 HP / 313 PS at 7100 RPM
Torque: 272.3 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.5%
Weight: 1610 kg
Ballast : 130 kg -NO WEIGHT REDUCTION
Ballast Position : -7
Weight Distribution : 53 / 47
Performance Points: 449




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Chameleon Orange



Tuning Parts Installed :
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 1



Suspension - NISSAN OEM Spring 2004-2008 Revised Suspension Adapted
Use with 2007 Spec
OEM Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 9.58 13.01
Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 2 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 0.6 1.6
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.12

Suspension - NISSAN OEM Spring 2002-2004 Non Revised Suspension Adapted
Use with 2002 Spec
OEM Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 11.95 13.01
Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 1 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 0.6 1.6
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.12

Suspension - NISSAN NISMO S-TUNE Coilover Adapted 8kg/mm Front / 9kg/mm Rear
0.6" Ride Height Drop
Use with 2007-2008 NISMO Spec
OEM Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 11.56 13.01
Dampers (Compression): 1 2
Dampers (Extension): 4 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 0.6 1.6
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.12





Brake Balance:
6/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 6/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

A simple replica of 3 version of Z33 350Z. From 2002 model to 2007 and NISMO spec. The spring rate of the real car couldn't be achieved, so I have to make do with harder springs, but the end result is still great.

I have provided detailed tire to use and reference lap time at Tsukuba on spec section, use the matching suspension for each spec :)

Stock LSD is used on all of them as I felt it works well already.

The specs should drive well from CM to SH.
 
Ford GT 2004 / 2005 / 2006

Tuned to replicate Ford GT 2004 - 2006
Comfort Medium



Ford-GT-2005-1600-4f.jpg


CAR : Ford GT '05 and Ford GT '06
Tire : Comfort Medium


Specs Ford GT Test Car 2004 January Car & Driver Test
( Ford GT '05 )

Horsepower: 493 HP / 500 PS at 5400 RPM
Torque: 500.5 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 89.7%
Weight: 1555 kg
Ballast : 104 kg
Ballast Position : 17
Weight Distribution : 43 / 57
Performance Points: 551


Specs Ford GT 2005 Dyno Power/Curb Weight
( Ford GT '05 )

Horsepower: 585 HP / 590 PS at 6100 RPM
Torque: 541.0 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.6%
Weight: 1587 kg
Ballast : 136 kg
Ballast Position : 24
Weight Distribution : 43 / 57
Performance Points: 573


Specs Ford GT 2006 Dyno Power/Curb Weight
( Ford GT '06 )

Horsepower: 585 HP / 590 PS at 6100 RPM
Torque: 541.0 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.6%
Weight: 1587 kg
Ballast : 146 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 43 / 57
Performance Points: 571



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity - NOT INSTALLED
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Any Color



Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Window Weight Reduction - INSTALL ONLY ON Ford GT '06



Suspension - Ford OEM Spring Adapted - 2004 / 2005 / 2006
Ride Height Correction ( 0.75" Higher Rear )
OEM Range Aligment
Scott Alhman Spec
Ford GT Chassis Design/Vehicle Dynamics & Development Engineer

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 129
Spring Rate: 5.71 8.00
Dampers (Compression): 3 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 0.5 1.6
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.12


OPTIONAL LOWER SPRING RATE
Suspension - Ford OEM Spring Adapted - Ford GT '06 ONLY
Ride Height Correction ( 0.75" Higher Rear )
OEM Range Aligment
Scott Alhman Spec
Ford GT Chassis Design/Vehicle Dynamics & Development Engineer

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 129
Spring Rate: 5.52 7.73
Dampers (Compression): 3 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 0.5 1.6
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.12




LSD - Heavy Duty Helical LSD ( Ricardo Transaxle )
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 26
Braking Sensitivity: 5




Aero
Front / Rear : 0 ( Fixed ) / 200 ( Fixed )



Brake Balance:
5/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/5 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
The Ford GT replica comprise of 3 model year, all of them share same suspension, except for '06 model which has optional lower spring rate. The real car OEM spring rate is not possible to reach, so I adapted the rate as close as possible. Alignment, weight/weight distribution and ride height infos are from Ford GT owner forums which also Scott Alhman, Ford GT Chassis Design/Vehicle Dynamics & Development Engineer, a member of. Car and Drive also provides infos on the 2004 Test Car which has 500PS. Dyno sheet from stock Ford GT also used for the Dyno power spec at 590PS ( calculated with driveline loss accounted, the real Ford GT puts out 530+HP at the wheel on mere 91/92 octane fuel ) A 100 octane fuel should see 600PS on stock Ford GT.

Tire is Comfort Medium, it gives great grip. The Ford GT '06 may push more and it has bit more chassis grip than the '05 model, the PP also differs a bit, PD being PD :P Find out which one you like the '05 or '06 model, drive them both :D
 
Last edited:
RUF 930 BTR ( Gruppe B Turbo Ruf / Big Turbo R ) Type I / Type II
Japanese 400PS BTR
Road & Track September 1984 World's Fastest Cars Feature ( WINNER )
186.2 MPH

Tuned to replicate RUF BTR
Comfort Hard to Comfort Medium


rufbtr85.jpg




CAR : RUF BTR '86
Tire : Comfort Hard to Comfort Medium


Specs Type I
Horsepower: 369 HP / 374 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque: 354.4 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1190 kg
Ballast : 145 kg
Ballast Position : 38
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62
Performance Points: 492


Specs Type II
Horsepower: 369 HP / 374 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque: 354.4 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1240 kg
Ballast : 195 kg
Ballast Position : 31 - Optional 32
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62
Performance Points: 489


Specs Type II US Road & Track World's Fastest Cars ( Winner )
Horsepower: 369 HP / 374 PS at 6000 RPM
Torque: 354.4 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1318 kg
Ballast : 143 kg
Ballast Position : 40
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62
Performance Points: 484

Specs 400PS Japanese Market BTR
Horsepower: 395 HP / 400 PS at 5800 RPM
Torque: 390.5 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.1% - Install Intake Tuning and Isometric Exhaust Manifold





GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Red or Black.


Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning - 400PS ONLY
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 400PS ONLY
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3 - 1240kg and 1190kg
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )



Suspension - RUF Tuned Torsion Bar & Bilstein Damper
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 128 128 - OPTIONAL 118 118
Spring Rate: 4.90 8.16 - OPTIONAL Front Spring 4.39, 4.58, 5.44
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 6 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 4
Camber Angle: 1.0 2.0
Toe Angle: -0.10 0.05

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - RUF CTR 5 Speed with Optional RUF 4.36 Final - OPTIONAL
3rd Gear Corrected

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 400kmh / 249mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.786
2nd 1.600
3rd 1.115
4th 0.828
5th 0.625
6th 0.596 - Ignore for authenticity
Set Final 4.360, OPTIONAL Use 4.000 for standard final



LSD - RUF BTR 60% Lock
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 36




Brake Balance:
6/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 1/2 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

Based on the Porsche 930 generation, the RUF BTR was the little brother to the CTR. Running single turbo setup, the BTR is still no push over, in 1984 it won the fastest car title given by US magazine Road & Track.

Suspension spring rate are based on various ratio used on different 930 and 964 models, the base is 4.9kg/mm front and 8.16kg/mm rear. This should give easier to drive balance, if you want more lively handling and more eager front end, use lower front rate 4.39 or 4.58 :)

Stock gearbox is good, but I also provide optional final drive ratio 4.36 setup which also offered by RUF.
LSD is standard spec RUF 60% lock.

The base tire is Comfort Hard, it drives the best on this tire IMO, but you can fit Comfort Medium too if wished. Tested at various tracks like Silverstone, Brands Hatch, Apricot Hill Reverse, and Rome.
 
Hey, Ridox tried a couple more of your cars last night :D

S2000 CR is amazing mate. I rarely ever classify a car as neutral, but this is one of the handful of cars I have ever driven that fits the bill. It's perfect, honestly. It just goes wherever you point it to. I think it might even replace Senna's NSX as my favourite car from you garage. It's that good 👍 IMO, CS/CS is better than CS/SH. It has plenty enough grip at the rear as it is. With SH rear it understeers a bit and makes it worse.

I always have a soft spot for the 350Z Z-Tune. I don't normally like Z cars (they're heavy boats, and I have PTSD from driving them in GT Academy TTs over the years :P), but this one I gotta give it a try. Well I'm not disappointed. Well balanced and just enough power to have fun, but not get you into too much trouble. IMO, the softer spring setup (BASE) is better than the other one.

Lastly, the Ford GT. I never liked the way stock Ford GT handles. It feels like each corner of the car has their own minds in which direction they want to go :lol: But with your setup it becomes a planted, agile MR supercar, even with CM tyres. Amazing work 👍

Incidentally, I checked the stock suspension values why the GT 06 has lower PP than GT 05. Turns out the GT 06 has harder fronts and softer rears, making it "safer" than the GT 05 and more understeery. I could not find any other difference. Weird. I thought suspension changes don't reflect in PP. Even after changing the settings to be exactly the same the PP difference still exists.

Your RUF BTR is next...but that will have to wait until next week :P

Oh, I completely agree that difficulty in driving doesn't make a game more realistic. In fact, I think it's the opposite. A realistic game should drive just as easily as a real car drives. We all can drive real cars, right? If you have to "learn how to drive" in a game/sim that tells me the game is unrealistic. And don't get me wrong. I think AC definitely has better physics and ffb. I just don't think the gap between GT6 and AC is as big as a lot of people make it out to be. Maybe I'm wrong. It's just an opinion.

These PC sims put a lot more time into crafting each vehicle, I think. So, every single car should be pretty unique whereas I think GT6/Forza pushes out so many cars that besides small differences, a lot of cars kind of drive and feel exactly the same way. But, that's why PC sims start off with 20-30 cars and console games can add 100-200 new or improved vehicles with each new release.

Again, I do agree that it's the harder that you push a car is where the differences start widening. I didn't crash even remotely as often as I crash my vehicles in AC. Especially those "tank slapper" types of crashes - when oversteer snaps back on your correction and then whips you around. Ugh...That happens quite often to me. There is more forgiveness in GT6 when driving the same car & track with the same settings, no TC and ABS enabled, for instance. ABS in GT6 is ridiculous. I should have listened to Ridox years ago when he told me to stop using it. I most often drive with ABS = Factory in AC and it's nothing like ABS in GT6.

Also, I don't think Assetto Corsa could have ever been ported to the PS3 platform. So, Polyphony did a pretty magnificent job with the limited hardware at their disposal. I'm sure GTSport will be an improvement of GT6. Its a shame you didn't think it was much of an improvement - hopefully they still have tweaking to do before the game goes Gold.

EDIT: I should restate that this is exactly why I was drawn to Ridox's Replica Garage in the first place. Ridox would put that extra weight back onto a Murcielago if GT6 had it 200kg lighter than the real car. A lot of times his adjustments technically made the car "trickier" to drive hard, but at least it was tweaked in the right direction. He knew when cars were too forgiving and not realistic.

Oh yeah, certainly the gap between AC and GT is not as big as between GT and NFS, just for an extreme example. But PD has had 15+ years to close that gap, and some aspects of GT6 physics are still behind prehistoric sims like GPL, let alone rFactor/LFS/AC/AMS. If you use my percentage system, the 10% gap between GT and AC may seem small, but it's exponentially difficult to cover that gap. PD would need to completely overhaul their suspension and tyre system just to get close, because I don't feel the current GT physics is up to scratch.

Equally speaking, the 5% gap from AC to real life is even bigger in qualitative terms, even though in number it's smaller. The closer you get the realism, the harder it is to improve by 1%.

So, I stand by my assessment. The physics in GT is nowhere near AC still. It's ok for console sim standards, but it's just outdated and overly simplified.

Hmm, well if just going by calculator and physics that civic should set for neutral handling f2:r1 ratio on dampers, and if leaving arb as is car will handle really close same on any damper setting in rate 2:1.
(If tune was mine i probably just put 2 on front comp and leave it, softening rear extension gives nice live rear, I like it, but not all, that's what civic is made for :))

Example tunes what are on 2:1 ratio
2/1
10/5
---
4/2
8/4
So on.

So extension on front double as on rear extension, same on compression.

Reason, car mass sits double on front versus rear after springs are taken in count.

Edit: but if you use balanced dampers, then you must use balanced brake bias too, so go with 5/5 if doing 2:1 ratio on dampers.

Yeah, I understand this whole part of using suspension ratio the same as car's weight distribution.

My question is: why does Ridox's Civic handle so well (and also sensitive to handling changes) when it's spring rate ratio is opposite to the weight distribution? Springs are softer front, but weight is heavier front.
 
I always have a soft spot for the 350Z Z-Tune. I don't normally like Z cars (they're heavy boats, and I have PTSD from driving them in GT Academy TTs over the years :P), but this one I gotta give it a try. Well I'm not disappointed. Well balanced and just enough power to have fun, but not get you into too much trouble. IMO, the softer spring setup (BASE) is better than the other one.
I'm the same way with those Z's. There is this beautiful balance of power and handling. At times you wish it had more power, but then you think about the overall performance and suddenly feel totally satisfied. I wouldn't necessarily call the car nimble, but it can dance on the racetrack. It's got the moves! :D How badly I wish I could try these 2 new setups Ridox has posted...I jealous. :banghead:

Lastly, the Ford GT. I never liked the way stock Ford GT handles. It feels like each corner of the car has their own minds in which direction they want to go :lol: But with your setup it becomes a planted, agile MR supercar, even with CM tyres. Amazing work 👍
What the F:censored: is up with the Ford GT? I couldn't stand driving that thing in GT6 and I can't stand driving it in AC. How that car was so successful on the race track I will never understand. :confused: :D

My question is: why does Ridox's Civic handle so well (and also sensitive to handling changes) when it's spring rate ratio is opposite to the weight distribution? Springs are softer front, but weight is heavier front.
That's easy. Ridox isn't human! :eek: He comes from an alien race of intergalactic moon racers. I intercepted a decoded message he received once. It said "STAGE 1: Provide humans with amazing Gran Turismo tunes. STAGE 2: Extinguish the human race." Wait, what?!?! :nervous: :( :nervous: :( I think I stopped reading after Stage 1 the last time I looked at this note... :boggled: :dunce:
 
Yeah, I understand this whole part of using suspension ratio the same as car's weight distribution.

My question is: why does Ridox's Civic handle so well (and also sensitive to handling changes) when it's spring rate ratio is opposite to the weight distribution? Springs are softer front, but weight is heavier front.

Well I tried to explain, but my language barrier makes this hard.
Front spring is half of rear stiffness when counting how much weight is resting on them, so similar move across body and front will bend twice as much rear will (before any other suspension parts than bust springs and weight), then in my example I showed several different dampening amounts what could be used with good benefits on Ridox car, reason on all was just to give twice as much resistance on front than rear is having to sustain mouvement ratio equal on front and rear.
Ridox 1/10 dampening is just good base "lock to ground" what will work on really many car, it's also realistic way, due normally damper extension is 50% or more stiffer than compression, running "lower" compression can give sensation of "rolling over object"= slight understeer on low rate springs(front), that's there on Ridox civic, but when using higher rate springs (rear) it bounces bit rear, high rate extension catches wheels throw inside and leaves controllable smooth slide on traction pads. 1/10 way needs "lot" of ride height/clearance to avoid suspension bottoming.
My "optimizations" on dampers were just to keep best parts of these there and kill excessive behavior.

Maybe this opens bit more?
 
Hey, Ridox tried a couple more of your cars last night :D

S2000 CR is amazing mate. I rarely ever classify a car as neutral, but this is one of the handful of cars I have ever driven that fits the bill. It's perfect, honestly. It just goes wherever you point it to. I think it might even replace Senna's NSX as my favourite car from you garage. It's that good 👍 IMO, CS/CS is better than CS/SH. It has plenty enough grip at the rear as it is. With SH rear it understeers a bit and makes it worse.

I always have a soft spot for the 350Z Z-Tune. I don't normally like Z cars (they're heavy boats, and I have PTSD from driving them in GT Academy TTs over the years :P), but this one I gotta give it a try. Well I'm not disappointed. Well balanced and just enough power to have fun, but not get you into too much trouble. IMO, the softer spring setup (BASE) is better than the other one.

Lastly, the Ford GT. I never liked the way stock Ford GT handles. It feels like each corner of the car has their own minds in which direction they want to go :lol: But with your setup it becomes a planted, agile MR supercar, even with CM tyres. Amazing work 👍

Incidentally, I checked the stock suspension values why the GT 06 has lower PP than GT 05. Turns out the GT 06 has harder fronts and softer rears, making it "safer" than the GT 05 and more understeery. I could not find any other difference. Weird. I thought suspension changes don't reflect in PP. Even after changing the settings to be exactly the same the PP difference still exists.

Your RUF BTR is next...but that will have to wait until next week :P



Oh yeah, certainly the gap between AC and GT is not as big as between GT and NFS, just for an extreme example. But PD has had 15+ years to close that gap, and some aspects of GT6 physics are still behind prehistoric sims like GPL, let alone rFactor/LFS/AC/AMS. If you use my percentage system, the 10% gap between GT and AC may seem small, but it's exponentially difficult to cover that gap. PD would need to completely overhaul their suspension and tyre system just to get close, because I don't feel the current GT physics is up to scratch.

Equally speaking, the 5% gap from AC to real life is even bigger in qualitative terms, even though in number it's smaller. The closer you get the realism, the harder it is to improve by 1%.

So, I stand by my assessment. The physics in GT is nowhere near AC still. It's ok for console sim standards, but it's just outdated and overly simplified.



Yeah, I understand this whole part of using suspension ratio the same as car's weight distribution.

My question is: why does Ridox's Civic handle so well (and also sensitive to handling changes) when it's spring rate ratio is opposite to the weight distribution? Springs are softer front, but weight is heavier front.

Glad you like all the cars you drive recently :) The NISMO Z-Tune 350Z does drive better with base spring set, the T2 Nismo springs are rock stiff on the front end, and softening the damper helped but it works best on high grip tires like SM.

For Ford GT, take a look at the stock weight distribution, that's where the difference is, the '06 GT has more heavier nose when stock, you will also notice this difference when reducing the weight, you can't shift the balance to the rear as much as the '05 GT can.

I think GTS or GT6 with LFS tire, drivetrain and suspension model would be a perfect match to compete with AC and PCars :D Give those tires rubbery feel even on DS2/3/4 :P

For the Civic, I think GT6 modeled the suspension type/motion ratio, although not really accurate, but most of the time real life spring rate works even when the real car has wide difference between front and rear because of suspension design ( strut vs multi link ) The BMW 1M and E92 M3, as well as M4 have much lower front spring rate vs the rear, even more than the Civic.

I recently drove my Countach 25th Anniversary replica at Red Bull Ring on CM, it was great and I lapped in 1:51s, not far off to RSR AC record on same car/track :P


I'm the same way with those Z's. There is this beautiful balance of power and handling. At times you wish it had more power, but then you think about the overall performance and suddenly feel totally satisfied. I wouldn't necessarily call the car nimble, but it can dance on the racetrack. It's got the moves! :D How badly I wish I could try these 2 new setups Ridox has posted...I jealous. :banghead:


What the F:censored: is up with the Ford GT? I couldn't stand driving that thing in GT6 and I can't stand driving it in AC. How that car was so successful on the race track I will never understand. :confused: :D


That's easy. Ridox isn't human! :eek: He comes from an alien race of intergalactic moon racers. I intercepted a decoded message he received once. It said "STAGE 1: Provide humans with amazing Gran Turismo tunes. STAGE 2: Extinguish the human race." Wait, what?!?! :nervous: :( :nervous: :( I think I stopped reading after Stage 1 the last time I looked at this note... :boggled: :dunce:

There's a NISMO 370Z in AC, that should satiate your thirst for the Fairlady :P

The Ford GT in GT6 is not well setup when stock, that's why :) I have the older GT40 for a while now, slowly applying real life stuff into it, might take that for a drive again.

I'm only on stage 1 for now :lol: I only wished people can enjoy GT6 more with my cars, find what it's like if the car have been treated with details and data + setup towards realism.
 
Lamborghini Diablo 5.7 '90-'98, SE30/JOTA '94-'95, SV '95-'00
6.0 GT '99-'00 Replica

Tuned to replicate Diablo 2WD ( Base to GT ) '90 to '00
Diablo Base Tsukuba Best Motoring Lap Record
Comfort Hard to Comfort Medium




CAR : Lamborghini Diablo GT '00
Tire : Comfort Hard to Comfort Medium


Specs Curb Weight ( Low Fuel ) Diablo '90-'98
Horsepower: 485 HP at 6500 RPM
Torque: 463.7 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 84.9%
Weight: 1642 kg
Ballast : 152 kg
Ballast Position : 20
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 527

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Tank ) Diablo '90-'98
Horsepower: 485 HP at 6500 RPM
Torque: 463.7 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 84.9%
Weight: 1690 kg
Ballast : 200 kg
Ballast Position : 20
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 524


Specs Curb Weight ( Low/No Fuel ) Diablo SE30 '94-'95
Horsepower: 518 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 90.8%
Weight: 1512 kg
Ballast : 22 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 41 / 59 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 543

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Fuel ) Diablo SE30 '94-'95
Horsepower: 518 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 90.8%
Weight: 1587 kg
Ballast : 97 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 538

Specs Curb Weight ( Low/No Fuel ) Diablo SE30 JOTA '94-'95
Horsepower: 587 HP at 7200 RPM
Torque: 488.2 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.0%
Weight: 1512 kg
Ballast : 22 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 41 / 59 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 560

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Fuel ) Diablo SE30 JOTA '94-'95
Horsepower: 587 HP at 7200 RPM
Torque: 488.2 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.0%
Weight: 1587 kg
Ballast : 97 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 555



Specs Dry Weight ( No Fuel ) Diablo SV S1 '95-'99 / Auto Motor Und Sport
Horsepower: 513 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 89.9%
Weight: 1530 kg
Ballast : 40 kg
Ballast Position : 42
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 540

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Fuel ) Diablo SV S1 '95-'99 / Auto Motor Und Sport
Horsepower: 513 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 89.9%
Weight: 1590 kg
Ballast : 100 kg
Ballast Position : 24
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 537


Specs Dry Weight ( No Fuel ) Diablo SV S2 '99-'00
Horsepower: 523 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 91.6%
Weight: 1530 kg
Ballast : 40 kg
Ballast Position : 42
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 543

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Fuel ) Diablo SV S2 '99-'00
Horsepower: 523 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 91.6%
Weight: 1590 kg
Ballast : 100 kg
Ballast Position : 24
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 539


Specs Dry Weight ( No Fuel ) Diablo GT '99-'00 / Auto Motor Und Sport
Horsepower: 571 HP at 7500 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at :100%
Weight: 1535 kg
Ballast : 45 kg
Ballast Position : 39
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 553

Specs Curb Weight ( Full Fuel ) Diablo GT '99-'00 / Auto Motor Und Sport
Horsepower: 571 HP at 7500 RPM
Torque: 465.0 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1620 kg
Ballast : 130 kg
Ballast Position : 25
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60 - as real life spec
Performance Points: 549





GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT Installed in this build )
Rear Wing : NO Rear Wing ( OPTIONAL )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Red or Black or White or In Violet ( from Plymouth Hemi Cuda Six Pack ) or Chrome Orange ( from Lotus Elise '96 ) or Champion Yellow ( from Suzuki Swift )



Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Exhaust ( Default Installed - Stock )
Intake Tuning - ONLY For SE30 JOTA
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Full Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission




Suspension - KONI Coilover
Stock Diablo ( All Generation from '90 to '98 Base 2WD to 2001 6.0 VT)
Diablo Factory Manual Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 110
Spring Rate: 9.19 11.79
Dampers (Compression): 8 4
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2 - Optional 4 4 ( original value )
Camber Angle: 0.7 0.3 ( Optional Front Camber 0.6 , Rear Camber 0.5 )
Toe Angle: 0.03 0.13 ( Optional Front Toe In 0.07 , Rear Toe In 0.16 )

Suspension - KONI Coilover
Stock Diablo ( All Generation from '90 to '98 Base 2WD to 2001 6.0 VT)
Personal Alignment - Used on Tsukuba Lap

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 110
Spring Rate: 9.19 11.79
Dampers (Compression): 8 4
Dampers (Extension): 5 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2 - Optional 4 4 ( original value )
Camber Angle: 0.7 0.4
Toe Angle: 0.08 0.12

SPECIAL DAMPER FOR CH TIRE
Better Rear Traction / Sharper Front End - Tested on 1690kg Base Diablo '90-'98
Dampers (Compression): 7 6
Dampers (Extension): 5 4


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Diablo 2.412 Final Drive + 1.590 Transfer Gear Ratio
1990-1998 Base + 1994-1995 SE30/JOTA
Corrected Final Drive Ratio - Standard Ratios

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 320kmh /199mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.312
2nd 1.524
3rd 1.125
4th 0.888
5th 0.676
Set Final 3.836 - Corrected Final drive based on 2.412 Final + 1.590 Transfer Gear Ratio

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Diablo 2.810 Final Drive + 1.590 Transfer Gear Ratio
Diablo SV 1995-2000
Corrected Final Drive Ratio - Close Ratios High Final Option

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 320kmh /199mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.312
2nd 1.524
3rd 1.125
4th 0.888
5th 0.676
Set Final 4.468 - Corrected Final drive based on 2.810 Final + 1.590 Transfer Gear Ratio


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Diablo 2.412 Final Drive + 1.619 Transfer Gear Ratio
Diablo 6.0 GT + VT
Corrected Final Drive Ratio - Standard Ratios

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 320kmh /199mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.312
2nd 1.524
3rd 1.125
4th 0.888
5th 0.676
Set Final 3.905 - Corrected Final drive based on 2.412 Final + 1.619 Transfer Gear Ratio

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Diablo 2.412 Final Drive + 1.667 Transfer Gear Ratio
Diablo 6.0 GT + VT
Corrected Final Drive Ratio - A Version Short Ratios for US Market

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 320kmh /199mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.312
2nd 1.524
3rd 1.125
4th 0.888
5th 0.676
Set Final 4.021 - Corrected Final drive based on 2.412 Final + 1.667 Transfer Gear Ratio

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - 5 Speed Diablo 2.412 Final Drive + 1.667 Transfer Gear Ratio
Diablo 6.0 GT + VT
Corrected Final Drive Ratio - C Version Short Ratios for EU/EEC Market

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 320kmh /199mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.312
2nd 1.524
3rd 1.125
4th 0.888
5th 0.697
Set Final 4.021 - Corrected Final drive based on 2.412 Final + 1.667 Transfer Gear Ratio



LSD 2 way ( low preload ) 45% Lock
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 27
Braking Sensitivity: 27

AERO - Optional
Rear : 20 ( Max )


Brake Balance:
4/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


The replica in this build covers most of the generation models of Lamborghini Diablo with rear wheel drive version. Spanning from 1990 Diablo to Diablo GT 2000. I provided 2 weight specs for each Diablo Base Coupe - 873 built ( 1990-1998 ), Diablo SE30 and JOTA - total 150 built, with 15-28 of them in JOTA Spec ( 1994-1995 ), Diablo SV - Spinto Veloce with 120 built ( 1995-1999 ), 100 SV built for 1999-2000 and Diablo GT - 83 built ( 1999-2000 ).

Power wise, the 5.7 V12 Diablo Base Coupe 1990-1998 has 492PS/485HP, Diablo SE30 has 525PS/518HP, SE30 JOTA 590PS/587HP ( 1994-1995 ), Diablo SV (1995-1999 ) has 520PS/513HP and later years has 530PS/523HP ( 1999-2000 ). For Diablo GT, the V12 has increased displacement at 6.0L, generating 575PS/571HP.
The 6.0L V12 also used on Diablo VT and VT SE from 2000-2001 with lower power at 550PS/542HP ( 260 VT and 44 VT SE were built ). Since we don't have VT Diablo ( AWD ), I do not include it in this replica.

Each of the weight specs are based on various source ( curb weight which often do not have full tank fuel ) and some of the full tank weight are calculated based on 100L fuel tank ( 75kg ) and official test weight. The Diablo GT full tank weight and dry weight are based on Auto Motor Und Sport Super Test Data.

Suspension spring rate is based on Diablo 6.0 ( Workshop Manual ), the spring rate calculated from static load + dynamic load + flexibility spec are lower than available in GT6. So I chose to use the spring ratio instead, and aim the lowest value possible in GT6. The ride height is at 110mm and suspension as well as alignment from Lamborghini Manual are used on all specs.

For LSD, 45% lock rear differential is used just like the real life spec, set with low preload to help the car agility while staying stable at the track. Gearing for Diablo are provided in 3 version, based on the ratios offered by Lamborghini from factory. The Diablo Base Coupe 1990-1998, SE30/JOTA 1994-1995 and Diablo SV ( 1995-2000 ) uses standard version gearing from factory unless the buyer asked otherwise.
The Diablo GT often comes with EU/EEC C Version Short Ratio giving it lower top speed, but better acceleration. When custom transmission is installed in GT6, the final drive calculation is not accurate as the real car uses final drive and transfer gear ratio. There are 5 sets of gearing, the 1st one with 1.59 transfer gear ratio is standard fitment on 1990-1998 Base, 1994-1995 SE/JOTA and 1995-2000 Diablo SV ( Spinto Veloce ). The 2nd set is High Final used on Diablo SV ( '95-'00 ) which gives it much lower top speed at 186+mph ( Factory Option )
While the other 3, the 1st one with 1.619 transfer gear ratio are used as standard fitment on 6.0L engined Diablo ( GT 1999-2000 and VT/SE 2000-2001 ), while the 1.667 A and C version short ratio are optional from factory for these 6.0L V12 Diablo.

The Diablo replica was tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Autumn Ring, Suzuka, Big Willow, Bathurst, and Red Bull Ring. The Base Coupe Diablo in particular was tested at Tsukuba to replicate Best Motoring real life record at 1:07.66 set during SuperCar Battle Race in early 90's ( the Diablo didn't finish as the car spun due to brake trouble ). Motoharu Kurosawa drove the Diablo in solo time attack session, but only managed 1:08.18 lap time. The replica Diablo Base Coupe spec 485HP and full tank weight 1690kg on Comfort Hard can do 1:07.6s with ease, the replay is included for reference.

For the Diablo SE30/JOTA, SV and GT, feel free to fit Comfort Medium to enjoy higher grip.


UPDATE August 2016 : Changed ARB to 2/2, the original 4/4 value is now optional. Tested at Tsukuba with Base Coupe 485HP, 1690kg and CH tires, should be more lively yet provides good grip and feedback on the limit. The old 4/4 was more stable but stiff.

ADDED : Alternate damper for better traction and sharper front end when using Comfort Hard tire ( tested on Diablo '90-'98 with 1690kg weight/40:60 ), should also work with Comfort Medium and all version of Diablo. Lap Times on CH, 485HP, 1690kg, Rome 1:22s, Cape Ring South 1:31s, and Suzuka East Course 1:00s.

The Lamborghini Diablo replica has been updated with revised ARB at 2/2, old value now optional .Added alternate damper for better traction/sharper front end, please read bottom of notes for more details :) Enjoy.
 
Last edited:
Well I tried to explain, but my language barrier makes this hard.
Front spring is half of rear stiffness when counting how much weight is resting on them, so similar move across body and front will bend twice as much rear will (before any other suspension parts than bust springs and weight), then in my example I showed several different dampening amounts what could be used with good benefits on Ridox car, reason on all was just to give twice as much resistance on front than rear is having to sustain mouvement ratio equal on front and rear.
Ridox 1/10 dampening is just good base "lock to ground" what will work on really many car, it's also realistic way, due normally damper extension is 50% or more stiffer than compression, running "lower" compression can give sensation of "rolling over object"= slight understeer on low rate springs(front), that's there on Ridox civic, but when using higher rate springs (rear) it bounces bit rear, high rate extension catches wheels throw inside and leaves controllable smooth slide on traction pads. 1/10 way needs "lot" of ride height/clearance to avoid suspension bottoming.
My "optimizations" on dampers were just to keep best parts of these there and kill excessive behavior.

Maybe this opens bit more?

Hey, no worries man, we all have struggles with our non-native language. I think you did a great job explaining these difficult concepts honestly. If it doesn't get through the first time, you just use different words next time :)

I think I understand what you're trying to say now. I should give Ridox Civic another try with your damper settings, just to see what it's like.

For Ford GT, take a look at the stock weight distribution, that's where the difference is, the '06 GT has more heavier nose when stock, you will also notice this difference when reducing the weight, you can't shift the balance to the rear as much as the '05 GT can.

For the Civic, I think GT6 modeled the suspension type/motion ratio, although not really accurate, but most of the time real life spring rate works even when the real car has wide difference between front and rear because of suspension design ( strut vs multi link ) The BMW 1M and E92 M3, as well as M4 have much lower front spring rate vs the rear, even more than the Civic.

The Ford GT in GT6 is not well setup when stock, that's why :) I have the older GT40 for a while now, slowly applying real life stuff into it, might take that for a drive again.

Oh yes, I missed the weight distribution difference. I wonder what changes are made to the real car to create that difference?

Also, I always found it a bit weird how shifting ballast to the rear always increases PP in GT5/6.

Good point on the motion ratio. I always forgot to take that into account. Here's something for you to ponder though: the FXXK in AC has a wheel rate of 1 1 front & rear. Is that even possible/realistic?

I'm looking forward to that GT40. Probably one of the hardest cars to tune for me in GT6 (both the Mark I and Race Car versions). I suspect PD's base setup is completely wrong lol.
 
Hey, no worries man, we all have struggles with our non-native language. I think you did a great job explaining these difficult concepts honestly. If it doesn't get through the first time, you just use different words next time :)

I think I understand what you're trying to say now. I should give Ridox Civic another try with your damper settings, just to see what it's like.



Oh yes, I missed the weight distribution difference. I wonder what changes are made to the real car to create that difference?

Also, I always found it a bit weird how shifting ballast to the rear always increases PP in GT5/6.

Good point on the motion ratio. I always forgot to take that into account. Here's something for you to ponder though: the FXXK in AC has a wheel rate of 1 1 front & rear. Is that even possible/realistic?

I'm looking forward to that GT40. Probably one of the hardest cars to tune for me in GT6 (both the Mark I and Race Car versions). I suspect PD's base setup is completely wrong lol.

Wheel rate is the rate acting at the center of the wheel contact patch, and you said FXXK has 11 front and rear, in what measurement would that be ? N/mm, that would be too low. Maybe 1:1 motion ratio, which means spring rate is the same as wheel rate.

The Ford GT 2005 and 2006 model year changes are minimal and do not have such difference in weight distribution, the designer barely made the target goal of 57% rear weight. I think it's purely PD being PD :lol:, like PP usually increase when more weight is at the rear ( too much can also be a bad thing, pendulum effect is stronger the more weight is at the rear )

I have the road car GT40, don't have the race car yet, too expensive :P BTW, I think you should drive the Diablo replica that I recently updated above, try it on CH, '90-'98 spec ( 485HP ), 1690kg, with updated damper + ARB, drive at Suzuka East or Rome, it's unique, almost like Countach but different :D
 
Wheel rate is the rate acting at the center of the wheel contact patch, and you said FXXK has 11 front and rear, in what measurement would that be ? N/mm, that would be too low. Maybe 1:1 motion ratio, which means spring rate is the same as wheel rate.

The Ford GT 2005 and 2006 model year changes are minimal and do not have such difference in weight distribution, the designer barely made the target goal of 57% rear weight. I think it's purely PD being PD :lol:, like PP usually increase when more weight is at the rear ( too much can also be a bad thing, pendulum effect is stronger the more weight is at the rear )

I have the road car GT40, don't have the race car yet, too expensive :P BTW, I think you should drive the Diablo replica that I recently updated above, try it on CH, '90-'98 spec ( 485HP ), 1690kg, with updated damper + ARB, drive at Suzuka East or Rome, it's unique, almost like Countach but different :D

No, I meant 1 front and 1 rear. There's no unit for wheel rate in AC. Maybe they meant motion ratio as you said.

Ah well, PD is not known for being logical :lol: I wonder if Kaz's Ford GT is the 05 model, that's why he gave it an unfair advantage :P

Yup, Diablo is on my list too. It's my favourite Lambo so I'm not gonna miss it. Shame we don't have a proper Diablo SV with pop up headlights though. That was the hero car for my childhood ever since I first saw it in NFS HP III :drool:
 
No, I meant 1 front and 1 rear. There's no unit for wheel rate in AC. Maybe they meant motion ratio as you said.

Ah well, PD is not known for being logical :lol: I wonder if Kaz's Ford GT is the 05 model, that's why he gave it an unfair advantage :P

Yup, Diablo is on my list too. It's my favourite Lambo so I'm not gonna miss it. Shame we don't have a proper Diablo SV with pop up headlights though. That was the hero car for my childhood ever since I first saw it in NFS HP III :drool:

Wheel rate uses same units as spring rate, if it's 1, likely it is motion ratio, which needs further calculation to get the wheel rate, but for 1 motion ratio, the wheel rate is equal to spring rate ( it's hidden in AC right ? ). Any wheel rate lower or higher than 1 in the game ?

The best Lambos in the game are Miura, Countach and Diablo IMO, the newer ones with AWD system are not as fun to drive :)

I really liked the early years Diablo VT, first experience was the original Need for Speed on PSX and PC.

I have Diablo GT2 tune that I customized for seasonal races, I may post it too, recently drove it at Suzuka East on CS tire, pretty fun and challenging :)

I really hoped that when I have AC on PS4, my old DS2 could still work using the USB Adapter used on PS3, it has PC mode, so it will be much better than DS4, I can use gas/brake with face buttons with full analog pressure.
 
Wheel rate uses same units as spring rate, if it's 1, likely it is motion ratio, which needs further calculation to get the wheel rate, but for 1 motion ratio, the wheel rate is equal to spring rate ( it's hidden in AC right ? ). Any wheel rate lower or higher than 1 in the game ?

The best Lambos in the game are Miura, Countach and Diablo IMO, the newer ones with AWD system are not as fun to drive :)

I really liked the early years Diablo VT, first experience was the original Need for Speed on PSX and PC.

I have Diablo GT2 tune that I customized for seasonal races, I may post it too, recently drove it at Suzuka East on CS tire, pretty fun and challenging :)

I really hoped that when I have AC on PS4, my old DS2 could still work using the USB Adapter used on PS3, it has PC mode, so it will be much better than DS4, I can use gas/brake with face buttons with full analog pressure.

I have not checked every car, no. I just glanced at the FXXK and noticed it's weird. I have seen higher than 1 but I don't believe there's any below 1. Maybe it's just an arbitrary unit like dampers in GT.

Oh yes, fully agree old RWD Lambos are better to drive. I have a soft spot for Murci LP640 design though. Probably my favourite Lambo post Diablo.

Problem with Diablos in GT6, because PD messed up the front to rear grip balance, it's undrivable on anything above SS tyres. Shame because the Diablo GT2 is clearly a race car...

Hmm...not sure about the controllers. DS4 is quite a lot different from DS2/3. Probably you need a new adapter. Better still get a wheel :D If I could I will send you a cheque myself mate :lol:
 
I have not checked every car, no. I just glanced at the FXXK and noticed it's weird. I have seen higher than 1 but I don't believe there's any below 1. Maybe it's just an arbitrary unit like dampers in GT.

Oh yes, fully agree old RWD Lambos are better to drive. I have a soft spot for Murci LP640 design though. Probably my favourite Lambo post Diablo.

Problem with Diablos in GT6, because PD messed up the front to rear grip balance, it's undrivable on anything above SS tyres. Shame because the Diablo GT2 is clearly a race car...

Hmm...not sure about the controllers. DS4 is quite a lot different from DS2/3. Probably you need a new adapter. Better still get a wheel :D If I could I will send you a cheque myself mate :lol:

I think the value on FXXK is just placeholder ( to keep it secret ) :lol:

I think I also have tamed the Diablo GT2, if you check the OP, find Diablo, there should be some replicas using the GT2, it was okay on RH if I remember it right.

The USB Adapter has PC mode, so if PS4 can use PC peripherals like mouse and keyboard, hopefully it will work :) For instance, on the PS3, I can use the DS2 using PC mode, the downside is the cross and circle is switched ( like in Japanese games ) :P
 
Last edited:
I had every single Ridox Replica Lamborghini Diablo Setup in my Garage. Those were some of my absolutely most cherished cars in the game. I can't remember exactly which model is which - a few I would keep on CM tires, a couple on CH tires and I think one was even on SH sometimes. I do remember that the CM cars were my favorite. You really had to manage that car's throttle and be sensitive to thge weight distribution when approaching corners.

One of my most cherished memories of GT6 was driving those Diablo's around Circuit de la Sierra lap after lap after lap. I'd throw a pair of headphones on, fire up MediaMonkey and just drive until I was too tired to do any more laps, switching from one Diablo to the next every now and then. I wish that road was in AC so badly. If I ever get off my butt and create a track for AC it will be something just like Circuit de la Sierra. Ridox, you knocked it out of the park with those tunes.

Here is a screen shot from the suspension.ini file that belongs to Nissan 180SX Type X - a mod car. I can't attest to the accuracy of any of this data, but this is what the modder threw into the suspension file.

PSgVg0J.png


Sometimes cars will have settings like 1, 2, 3 or 4 for certain suspension characteristics and then some cars show an actual value - whatever the heck units it's using - for you to select. I am the worst tuner in the history of mankind, so I don't fiddle with this stuff at all.
 
I had every single Ridox Replica Lamborghini Diablo Setup in my Garage. Those were some of my absolutely most cherished cars in the game. I can't remember exactly which model is which - a few I would keep on CM tires, a couple on CH tires and I think one was even on SH sometimes. I do remember that the CM cars were my favorite. You really had to manage that car's throttle and be sensitive to thge weight distribution when approaching corners.

One of my most cherished memories of GT6 was driving those Diablo's around Circuit de la Sierra lap after lap after lap. I'd throw a pair of headphones on, fire up MediaMonkey and just drive until I was too tired to do any more laps, switching from one Diablo to the next every now and then. I wish that road was in AC so badly. If I ever get off my butt and create a track for AC it will be something just like Circuit de la Sierra. Ridox, you knocked it out of the park with those tunes.

Here is a screen shot from the suspension.ini file that belongs to Nissan 180SX Type X - a mod car. I can't attest to the accuracy of any of this data, but this is what the modder threw into the suspension file.

PSgVg0J.png


Sometimes cars will have settings like 1, 2, 3 or 4 for certain suspension characteristics and then some cars show an actual value - whatever the heck units it's using - for you to select. I am the worst tuner in the history of mankind, so I don't fiddle with this stuff at all.

Diablo also reminds of many seasonal races :)

The suspension.ini file looks to be meant to be edited with AC modding tools, there are some parameter that requires visual cues like those attach points, track widths and the rod length is unclear there, why would 180SX have push rod ? Anyway without playing with the tools and driving it, I have no idea how things work in AC modding :P
 
I only posted that screenshot because I saw you guys talking about wheel rate / spring rate and I believe it was LeGeNd-1 who said he wasn't positive what units it was in. You guys are much smarter than I with this stuff. I see 18766 Nm and it just starts my head spinning.
 
I only posted that screenshot because I saw you guys talking about wheel rate / spring rate and I believe it was LeGeNd-1 who said he wasn't positive what units it was in. You guys are much smarter than I with this stuff. I see 18766 Nm and it just starts my head spinning.

The wheel rate of 18766 Nm would be 18.766N/mm, that is in the ball park for stock springs of 180SX which if I recalled around 20-30N/mm

Hopefully I will manage to win the 600PP/SH tyres, Expert Spec-A Seasonal. I tried with several cars and I couldn't. Yet. :sly: :cheers:

At 600PP races, not sure if it can win, but I did used it a lot at Super GT race at High Speed Ring 600PP seasonal a few months ago.
 
Okay I have a question for you Ridox. Anyone else is free to chime in if you feel like helping me out.

I have a 1970s Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Touring that some modder released. I have no idea if the creator knew what he was doing, but I do enjoy driving this thing, so it's not terrible or anything.

The defaults I'm dealing with are:

Differential Power - 40% (80% is the only other option)
Differential Coast - 40% (80% is the only other option)
Differential Preload - 0 Nm (5 Nm, 10Nm, 15 Nm, 20 Nm for adjustments)

If I wanted to make the car a little more loose is there anything I can do? I can't lower anything. All three options are at their lowest value.

If I wanted to make the car a little more stable is there anything I can do?

Basically, I just don't know what benefit bumping up Power or Coast to 80% is supposed to do for me. If I increase the Preload, that should tighten the car up, shouldn't it?
 
Okay I have a question for you Ridox. Anyone else is free to chime in if you feel like helping me out.

I have a 1970s Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Touring that some modder released. I have no idea if the creator knew what he was doing, but I do enjoy driving this thing, so it's not terrible or anything.

The defaults I'm dealing with are:

Differential Power - 40% (80% is the only other option)
Differential Coast - 40% (80% is the only other option)
Differential Preload - 0 Nm (5 Nm, 10Nm, 15 Nm, 20 Nm for adjustments)

If I wanted to make the car a little more loose is there anything I can do? I can't lower anything. All three options are at their lowest value.

If I wanted to make the car a little more stable is there anything I can do?

Basically, I just don't know what benefit bumping up Power or Coast to 80% is supposed to do for me. If I increase the Preload, that should tighten the car up, shouldn't it?

Loose as in more freedom to rotate at all times ? You have Diff Power and Coast on minimum value, and zero preload ( no resistance at all, which means it should drive like open diff )

You will need to look at the suspension now, the easiest way to alter balance is alignment and tire pressure. If you want more stable, increasing Diff Preload is easiest way, try max value 20Nm ( still very low ), and increase coast to 80% ( but this may cause it to push on entry while braking ).

From alignment, increase rear toe in for more stable rear end, apply more toe in on front for better turn in, but may push mid corner onwards, while stable compared to toe out. Camber, if you can see inner/middle/outside temp, try to keep temp difference around 2-6 degree on each part of the tire ( skidpad or driving in circle at speed helps making this easier, or just drive 10-15 minutes at 80% pace then check all tires temp ) - Do this first if possible.
, then try these :

Tire pressure change 1-2 psi every 10 degree of ambient temp, I would suggest for old 911 to run 29 front 32-36 rear cold pressure ( lower rear cold to 29 and see what happens ). Look at the middle temp of each tire, if way higher, pressure is overinflated, way lower, underinflated. Track driving should increase to hot pressure around 6-8 psi higher than cold. Also consider tire/wheel size used, lower sidewall big rims will need higher pressure cold to keep the sidewall from flexing / delaminated under load. With smaller rims and higher sidewall ( higher aspect ratio ), a bit less pressure when cold can be used.
Track surface temp also influence the grip/tire pressure/temp, cold surface, you should try lower cold pressure first, depending on the tire size, construction and compound, you may need higher cold pressure instead. Drive for 10 minutes, and see how much increase in pressure and temp on cold track and if you can maintain consistent grip at that level ( lower by 1-2 psi see if grip improve )

I don't know the optimal temp for grip on the AC car tire, but try to reach the optimal temp when hot.
 
Last edited:
Loose as in more freedom to rotate at all times ? You have Diff Power and Coast on minimum value, and zero preload ( no resistance at all, which means it should drive like open diff )

You will need to look at the suspension now, the easiest way to alter balance is alignment and tire pressure. If you want more stable, increasing Diff Preload is easiest way, try max value 20Nm ( still very low ), and increase coast to 80% ( but this may cause it to push on entry while braking ).

From alignment, increase rear toe in for more stable rear end, apply more toe in on front for better turn in, but may push mid corner onwards, while stable compared to toe out. Camber, if you can see inner/middle/outside temp, try to keep temp difference around 2-6 degree on each part of the tire ( skidpad or driving in circle at speed helps making this easier, or just drive 10-15 minutes at 80% pace then check all tires temp ) - Do this first if possible.
, then try these :

Tire pressure change 1-2 psi every 10 degree of ambient temp, I would suggest for old 911 to run 29 front 32-36 rear cold pressure ( lower rear cold to 29 and see what happens ). Look at the middle temp of each tire, if way higher, pressure is overinflated, way lower, underinflated. Track driving should increase to hot pressure around 6-8 psi higher than cold. Also consider tire/wheel size used, lower sidewall big rims will need higher pressure cold to keep the sidewall from flexing / delaminated under load. With smaller rims and higher sidewall ( higher aspect ratio ), a bit less pressure when cold can be used.
Track surface temp also influence the grip/tire pressure/temp, cold surface, you should try lower cold pressure first, depending on the tire size, construction and compound, you may need higher cold pressure instead. Drive for 10 minutes, and see how much increase in pressure and temp on cold track and if you can maintain consistent grip at that level ( lower by 1-2 psi see if grip improve )

I don't know the optimal temp for grip on the AC car tire, but try to reach the optimal temp when hot.
Thanks! I'll give those suggestions a try when I get back in front of my steering wheel. Being a not so great mod, the only suspension values I can change are front left & right toe. That's it. :grumpy: But, I can adjust tire pressure, so I'll give that a go.

I'll report back with my findings as soon as I can. 👍
 
Do you have a tune for this?

FERRARI FXX

Tuned to replicate Ferrari FXX
Comfort Soft to Racing Hard





CAR : Ferrari FXX '07
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard


Specs Base
Horsepower: 788 HP / 799 PS at 9000 RPM
Torque: 506.3 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1305 kg
Ballast : 160 kg
Ballast Position : 30
Weight Distribution : 41 / 59 - used FXX-K Distribution
Performance Points: 621




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Wheels : Standard Size - Stock
Car Paint : Red or Black Matte



Tuning Parts Installed :
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Window Weight Reduction
Racing Brakes Kit



Suspension - Ferrari FXX Springs Custom Set
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 130
Spring Rate: 12.24 15.30
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 5 6 - OPTIONAL Rear Extension at 5 for better stability under braking/cornering
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 3.5 2.6
Toe Angle: 0.15 0.08



LSD
Initial Torque : 16
Acceleration Sensitivity: 27
Braking Sensitivity: 20



AERO
Front/Rear = 150 ( Fixed ) / 200 ( Fixed )





Brake Balance:
3/3 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/4 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

A simple replica build of Ferrari FXX, an evolution of Enzo, the FXX is track focused car with sole purpose of data acquisition employing rich people chosen as test drivers. The aim is to gather data and research for future Ferrari cars.

This build is custom but uses available data like weight of heaviest FXX, distribution uses data from FXX-K. Tire can be from CS to RH, the real car often fitted with slicks at the track, use either SM, SS or RH tire.

Tested at Midfield and Apricot Hill Reverse, the FXX able to lap 1:07s at Midfield and 1:19s at Apricot Hill Reverse, on RH tires. Replays are included.
 
Well, I have searched in the OP and couldn't find it. :dunce: Thank you. 👍 :)

Edit: It's very possible that I already have it built. I'm at work now. :)
 
Back