RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

  • Thread starter Ridox2JZGTE
  • 5,032 comments
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AMR Engineering/Cusco Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Real World Setup - TRD Track/Auto Cross/Road Race Alignment 420PP and 450PP

Special Build of Cusco/AMR Engineering MR2 AW11 G-LTD SC
420PP and 450PP
Comfort Soft to Sports Medium​




CAR : Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium

Specs 420PP - 45/55 distribution
Horsepower: 195 HP / 198 PS at 7300 RPM
Torque: 175.0 ft-lb at 5200 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.8%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life stock ( 44.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 420

Specs 420PP 42/58 distribution
Horsepower: 194 HP / 197 PS at 6700 RPM
Torque: 175.0 ft-lb at 5200 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.7%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as in real life for track built MR2
Performance Points: 420

Specs 450PP 45/55 distribution
Horsepower: 243 HP / 246.3 PS at 7400 RPM
Torque: 207.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.9%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life stock ( 44.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 450

Specs 450PP 42/58 distribution
Horsepower: 243 HP / 246.3 PS at 7400 RPM
Torque: 207.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.8%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as in real life for track built MR2
Performance Points: 450



GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build )
Wheels : +1 Inch Up BBS-RS painted in Gold / Saddle Tan
Car Paint : Classic Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3 -ONLY FOR 450PP - remove for 420PP
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold -ONLY FOR 450PP - remove for 420PP
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/250 +
Track/Auto X/Road Race TRD Specs Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 7 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 1
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.14 0.28

ALTERNATIVE Suspension for 42/58, may also work for 45/55 distribution - Rear Damper Extension and ARB Tweaks
Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/250 +
Track/Auto X/Road Race TRD Specs Alignment - SPECIAL Tweak for 42/58 distribution
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 7 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.14 0.28


LSD - 1.5 Way Cusco RS LSD
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 17

[/B]

Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/5, for ABS 1 5/6 or feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :
Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

This is one of the MR car that I really like to drive. I have built this replica since release day, but only decided to post it now as it has comfort hard tire :D

The car is roughly based on an real MR2 AW11 that my mate used to own back in my college days. An old worn out MR2 MK1 with over 200,000km in red :lol: It was modified with AMR Engineering custom coilover utilizing swift springs and Cusco 2 way LSD to help with traction, the owner was learner licensed driver so no power mods allowed by his parents :lol: For this version, I decided to give the little MR2 some more grunt and less fat, built for racing and track day, a what if version :P

For this build, I focused on stiffer springs to help the car stays more planted during high G cornering load. Springs are also chosen to balance the rear heavy car following similar approach in real life, closer rear rate to the front. Some AutoX / track MR2 MK1 even uses same rate or lower rear, depending on the rear sway bar usage and tires fitted. I chose to use lower rear, taking from my past experience and real life practice from MR2 AW11 owner who do Auto X and track racing. The plan is to use high spring rate, but the targeted value is not available in GT6, so I have to use lower range rate, while still maintaining proven spring ratio ( front to rear ) in real life.

Springs are 400 / 250 for the MR2, softer rear following a setup used in real life for track/Auto X AW11. With damper setup for track and ARB to reduce oversteer on mid corner. Toe and camber alignment uses TRD track/auto x/road race recommended range for their line of sports springs ( lowering and race ).

LSD uses 1.5 way, with high preload and medium lock to focus on agility while still keeping the little MR2 from dancing around too much and good traction from mid corner :D

For power and weight distribution, I have provided a multitude of choices, from 420PP to 450PP, each has 2 version of weight distribution. The official stock distribution is at 45.5/55.5 replicated via ballast position, while the 42/58 is from reports of MR2 AW11 owner who tracked the car and sporting extensive modification and weight savings. Try all of them and pick which one suits you best. For 450PP, engine tuning stage 3 and isometric exhaust manifold will have to be installed.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba and Bathurst :D It can easily run 1:07s at Tsukuba on comfort soft on 420PP + 45/55 distribution.


Based on feedback from @danbojte, I have mode further tweaks and added another suspension setup for the 42/58 distribution, tested on 420PP + CS tire, easy flat 1:08s or lower at Tsukuba


ENJOY :cheers:
 
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BMW Motorsports M3 GT4
Maserati Granturismo MC GT4
Ford Racing FR500 C Mustang "Boy Racer" GT4


Now, which one is next to post :lol: Plus I have a few more GT4 :P I will post a different flavor car first :)

toyota-bb.jpg
 
Ridox2JZGTE
STAR ROAD Nissan 240ZG (HS30) '71 300PS
Tuned to replicate Star Road S30Z Hot Version Wangan Midnight Battle - Comfort Soft​




CAR : Nissan 240ZG ( HS30 ) '71
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs
Horsepower: 300PS / 294 HP at 6300 RPM
Torque: 263.3 ft-lb at 5800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1140 kg
Ballast : 130 kg
Ballast Position : 45
Weight Distribution : 53 / 47 ( real )
Performance Points: 459


GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( Installed in this build ) - Mandatory to conform with the real car
Wheels : +1 Inch Up - American Racing VN500
Car Paint : Brilliant Blue



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Sports Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Intake Tuning
Catalytic Converter Sports
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Racing Brakes Kit



LSD - 1.5 way NISMO GT low preload
Initial Torque : 11
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 17


Suspension - Kameari Coil Over One Touch - Star Road Spec + Street/Track Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 8.00 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 7
Dampers (Extension): 6 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.0
Toe Angle: 0.18 0.14


Suspension - Kameari Coil Over One Touch - Star Road Spec + AutoX/Aggressive Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 8.00 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 7
Dampers (Extension): 6 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 1.7 2.2
Toe Angle: 0.21 0.14

( Optional Rear Toe In 0.07 or 0.43 and Front Toe in 0.18 or 0.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.21 0.43 OR
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.43


Brake Balance:
3/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/5 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
This old timeless classic - S30 Fairlady is built to replicate the famous restoration and tuner garage - STAR ROAD of Tokyo, Japan. This particular car is a replica of the S30Z driven by Dori Dori at Motegi Speedway Oval.

As in GT6 the car has quite skinny tire :( extra care need to be taken when cornering at high speed, fitting sports hard will also greatly add the grip limit.


UPDATE 1.08 : Revised/Corrected spring rate, damper, ABR and alignment as well as a second set alignment. Tested at Tsukuba, capable of 1:06s on CS tire using street/track alignment.
Click to expand...

The replica has been updated, some changes to suspension including 2 sets of alignment.
 
WOWWWWW, These are the bombssss!!! I just come across seeing these tunes and I'm so excited because this is REAL LIFE version.

I have couple questions:
1. Are these the optimal real life tunes?
2. Have you tried running both these set up in game and in real life. Is the handling similar??
3. I wonder how these replica are stack up against other tunes? Which leads to another question: If SOME of these tunes are not as fast as other tunes, why don't real life tuners use other tunes?
 
FSportIS
WOWWWWW, These are the bombssss!!! I just come across seeing these tunes and I'm so excited because this is REAL LIFE version.

I have couple questions:
1. Are these the optimal real life tunes?
2. Have you tried running both these set up in game and in real life. Is the handling similar??
3. I wonder how these replica are stack up against other tunes? Which leads to another question: If SOME of these tunes are not as fast as other tunes, why don't real life tuners use other tunes?
Click to expand...


Thank you for the kind words :) These cars that I built are not replacement for a real life setup, rather a close approximation/replica based on real world tuning approach and at some degree setup ( alignment, weight + distribution, power and LSD ). I am mostly used lap time in real life as benchmark if available, then detailed specification through research. This means I do not follow the same goals/approach to other big name tuners in GTP, as they mainly aimed at easy to drive cars or max possible performance ( time trial or online racing tune ).

For instance, I always tried to replicate real car weight distribution, replicate LSD ( aftermarket clutch type ) instead using low value that are close to open diff that are often used by most tuners, ride height is used for replicating real life ( Lexus ISF for example ). Some tuners uses ride height exploit/bug as an easy way to tune car oversteer/understeer, while I focused on springs + damper + ARB and alignment. This approach make my cars closer to what a real version would be, but usually will be harder to drive and less optimum when compared to cars made "whatever it takes to be quick approach" :P

So to answer your questions :

1. No, the cars I built are replicas, and as such can't be described as actual real life tunes, there are many parameters not available in GT6 ( caster, wheel offset, springs type and value ranges, accurate ARB tuning and lots of other things like LSD that are too simple ) The term Optimal is very loose, for what purpose or in what aspect optimal relates to, for hot laps/time trial, racing offline/online or just driving pleasure. I would say most of my cars are not optimal as I often set real life ap time as benchmark, most other tuners will easily built much quicker / easier to drive cars.

2. I can't really answer this question, I have driven many cars ( mainly JDM cars back when I live at down under ), some of them are in GT6, and I always aim to tune/built cars to handle like the way I have experienced in real life. A car with aftermarket LSD like ATS carbon or Nismo GT LSD that I have driven in real life can be very temperamental ( tight, responsive to throttle and bites back on the edge when driven on street tires + high torque+HP ), and this is similar to replicas with same LSD replicated.

3. My tunes are not built for outright speed/quick lap times and ease of use. In real life, the other tunes will not work :lol: Some tuners uses extreme ride height differences to make understeer car behaved, like 170 front and 70 rear ( opposite to real life ) - do this on a real car and have a laugh :P, most LSD are also tuned on very low value that are close to open diff in GT6 ( less than 10 initial/preload, low accel/brake at less than 10 or 20 ), now imagine a real life modified RR cars ( Porsche ) at 500HP with aftermarket 2 way/ 1.5 way LSD running very low preload/initial torque that behaved like open diff 90+% of the time, low number of clutch plates, high ramp angles ( low lock ) - similar to worn out stock rear limited slip diff on a Porsche, it will have traction issue and not favorable.

GT6 is not really perfect ( tire, aero and LSD modelling still needs a lot work ), but I try to make do with what I have :P
 
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Ole
Fantastic.... As a 2008 C6 owner I can say I feel a very realistic driving feeling from this.... I tuned it to 436hp and it feels amazing at Leguna...
Thumbs up and thanks for the research and tune I've been searching for since launch!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks :) Glad you enjoyed the replica. The next replica I will be posting is street car, the picture posted above, a boxy minivan, with slow 4 speed, but still offers fun driving. Just a simple tune up based on real life certain aftermarket parts company demo/test car. Anyone have Scion xB or Toyota bB :lol:
 
Ridox2JZGTE
AMR Engineering/Cusco Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Real World Setup - TRD Track/Auto Cross/Road Race Alignment 420PP and 450PP

Special Build of Cusco/AMR Engineering MR2 AW11 G-LTD SC
420PP and 450PP
Comfort Soft to Sports Medium​




CAR : Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium

Specs 420PP - 45/55 distribution
Horsepower: 195 HP / 198 PS at 7300 RPM
Torque: 175.0 ft-lb at 5200 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.8%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life stock ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 420

Specs 420PP 42/58 distribution
Horsepower: 194 HP / 197 PS at 6700 RPM
Torque: 175.0 ft-lb at 5200 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.7%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as in real life for track built MR2
Performance Points: 420

Specs 450PP 45/55 distribution
Horsepower: 243 HP / 246.3 PS at 7400 RPM
Torque: 207.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.9%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life stock ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 450

Specs 450PP 42/58 distribution
Horsepower: 243 HP / 246.3 PS at 7400 RPM
Torque: 207.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99.8%
Weight: 980 kg
Ballast : 86 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as in real life for track built MR2
Performance Points: 450



GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build )
Wheels : +1 Inch Up BBS-RS painted in Gold / Saddle Tan
Car Paint : Classic Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3 -ONLY FOR 450PP - remove for 420PP
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold -ONLY FOR 450PP - remove for 420PP
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/250 +
Track/Auto X/Road Race TRD Specs Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 7 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 1
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.14 0.28


LSD - 1.5 Way Cusco RS LSD
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 17




Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/5, for ABS 1 5/6 or feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :
Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

This is one of the MR car that I really like to drive. I have built this replica since release day, but only decided to post it now as it has comfort hard tire :D

The car is roughly based on an real MR2 AW11 that my mate used to own back in my college days. An old worn out MR2 MK1 with over 200,000km in red :lol: It was modified with AMR Engineering custom coilover utilizing swift springs and Cusco 2 way LSD to help with traction, the owner was learner licensed driver so no power mods allowed by his parents :lol: For this version, I decided to give the little MR2 some more grunt and less fat, built for racing and track day, a what if version :P

For this build, I focused on stiffer springs to help the car stays more planted during high G cornering load. Springs are also chosen to balance the rear heavy car following similar approach in real life, closer rear rate to the front. Some AutoX / track MR2 MK1 even uses same rate or lower rear, depending on the rear sway bar usage and tires fitted. I chose to use lower rear, taking from my past experience and real life practice from MR2 AW11 owner who do Auto X and track racing. The plan is to use high spring rate, but the targeted value is not available in GT6, so I have to use lower range rate, while still maintaining proven spring ratio ( front to rear ) in real life.

Springs are 400 / 250 for the MR2, softer rear following a setup used in real life for track/Auto X AW11. With damper setup for track and ARB to reduce oversteer on mid corner. Toe and camber alignment uses TRD track/auto x/road race recommended range for their line of sports springs ( lowering and race ).

LSD uses 1.5 way, with high preload and medium lock to focus on agility while still keeping the little MR2 from dancing around too much and good traction from mid corner :D

For power and weight distribution, I have provided a multitude of choices, from 420PP to 450PP, each has 2 version of weight distribution. The official stock distribution is at 45.5/55.5 replicated via ballast position, while the 42/58 is from reports of MR2 AW11 owner who tracked the car and sporting extensive modification and weight savings. Try all of them and pick which one suits you best. For 450PP, engine tuning stage 3 and isometric exhaust manifold will have to be installed.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba and Bathurst :D It can easily run 1:07s at Tsukuba on comfort soft on 420PP + 45/55 distribution.


ENJOY :cheers:
Click to expand...
Specs 420PP 45/55 distribution

Specs 420PP 42/58 distribution

CS, ABS 1
- A-Spec Seasonal 500PP - Brands Hatch Indy Circuit, 5 Laps, Winner! :)
- The first version of weight distribution preferred.


Specs 450PP 45/55 distribution

Specs 450PP 42/58 distribution

SS, ABS 1
- A-Spec Seasonal 600PP - Nurburgring GP/F, 5 Laps, Winner! OMG, yes! :D
- The first version of weight distribution preferred.

At last, a great tune for this car. 👍
 
danbojte
Specs 420PP 45/55 distribution

Specs 420PP 42/58 distribution

CS, ABS 1
- A-Spec Seasonal 500PP - Brands Hatch Indy Circuit, 5 Laps, Winner! :)
- The first version of weight distribution preferred.


Specs 450PP 45/55 distribution

Specs 450PP 42/58 distribution

SS, ABS 1
- A-Spec Seasonal 600PP - Nurburgring GP/F, 5 Laps, Winner! OMG, yes! :D
- The first version of weight distribution preferred.

At last, a great tune for this car. 👍
Click to expand...

Awesome winning !! So happy the MR2 can drive great and win races :D I have made some update for suspension on the 42/58 distribution, it allows better stability and better traction from mid corner to exit.

ALTERNATIVE Suspension for 42/58, may also work for 45/55 distribution - Rear Damper Extension and ARB Tweaks
Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/250 +
Track/Auto X/Road Race TRD Specs Alignment - SPECIAL Tweak for 42/58 distribution
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 7 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.14 0.28
 
Ridox2JZGTE
Awesome winning !! So happy the MR2 can drive great and win races :D I have made some update for suspension on the 42/58 distribution, it allows better stability and better traction from mid corner to exit.

ALTERNATIVE Suspension for 42/58, may also work for 45/55 distribution - Rear Damper Extension and ARB Tweaks
Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/250 +
Track/Auto X/Road Race TRD Specs Alignment - SPECIAL Tweak for 42/58 distribution
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 4.47
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 7 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.5
Toe Angle: 0.14 0.28
Click to expand...
Made the changes for the track version only. There's a lot of improvement. 👍
 
@Ridox2JZGTE Wow, thank you for taking so much time answer my questions and offer so much insight. I share similar goals like yours too. I play this game more for driving simulation as the game title is intended for. The more real it gets, the better the game experience is for me. I don't really care about being super competitive or do everything at all cost just to get recognized. I also notice some tunes that have ridiculous height, spring rates, LSD adjustment. They don't make much sense in reality but the tunes seem to run fine in game. That seems to be a little disconnection with the reality.

You mentioned about JDM, i guess you mean Japanese Domestic Import which refers to Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Lexus cars plus tons of performance parts and accessories from Japan? If so, guess what, I'm in the same boat. I currently own two Lexus IS250 and Lexus IS350 with many JDM parts on them :D. My dream is to swap a 2JZ engine into the IS lol. I'm also saving up money for the Lexus ISF or the Lexus RCF which is competing favorably against the BMW M4 :D

I also see that the game totally miss out the wheel/tires specification such as width, height, radius, offset etc when these can be essential. Suspension tune has to be adjusted a bit with different wheel/tires set up because they are related together. Anyways, i hope this new feature will be integrated in GT7 or something.

I will try out more of your tunes. By the way, real modern performance cars have ABS system. However, in game, there seem to be 2 schools of thought: abs-1 vs. abs-0. You did explain it there a bit.

I have follow up questions:
1. What is closer to real ABS? Is it abs-0 or abs-1? Why? (My preference: I don't care what drives faster or easier to drive, i want to drive what is MORE REAL)
2. What is the difference between real life ABS system vs. in game ABS system? full detailed technical elaboration on this is greatly appreciated.
3. Are your tunes mainly for abs-0? Is there a generic conversion method of tunes going from abs-0 to abs-1 or vice versa? What i mean is that let's say there is a tune with abs-1 in mind, now how should we adjust it to suit the abs-0 crowds using that same tune and vice versa?
 
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Ridox2JZGTE
STAR ROAD Nissan 240ZG (HS30) '71 300PS
Tuned to replicate Star Road S30Z Hot Version Wangan Midnight Battle - Comfort Soft​




CAR : Nissan 240ZG ( HS30 ) '71
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs
Horsepower: 300PS / 294 HP at 6300 RPM
Torque: 263.3 ft-lb at 5800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1140 kg
Ballast : 130 kg
Ballast Position : 45
Weight Distribution : 53 / 47 ( real )
Performance Points: 459


GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( Installed in this build ) - Mandatory to conform with the real car
Wheels : +1 Inch Up - American Racing VN500
Car Paint : Brilliant Blue



Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Sports Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Intake Tuning
Catalytic Converter Sports
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Racing Brakes Kit



LSD - 1.5 way NISMO GT low preload
Initial Torque : 11
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 17


Suspension - Kameari Coil Over One Touch - Star Road Spec + Street/Track Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 8.00 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 7
Dampers (Extension): 6 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.0
Toe Angle: 0.18 0.14


Suspension - Kameari Coil Over One Touch - Star Road Spec + AutoX/Aggressive Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 8.00 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 7
Dampers (Extension): 6 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 1.7 2.2
Toe Angle: 0.21 0.14

( Optional Rear Toe In 0.07 or 0.43 and Front Toe in 0.18 or 0.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.21 0.43 OR
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.43


Brake Balance:
3/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/5 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
This old timeless classic - S30 Fairlady is built to replicate the famous restoration and tuner garage - STAR ROAD of Tokyo, Japan. This particular car is a replica of the S30Z driven by Dori Dori at Motegi Speedway Oval.

As in GT6 the car has quite skinny tire :( extra care need to be taken when cornering at high speed, fitting sports hard will also greatly add the grip limit.


UPDATE 1.08 : Revised/Corrected spring rate, damper, ABR and alignment as well as a second set alignment. Tested at Tsukuba, capable of 1:06s on CS tire using street/track alignment.
Click to expand...
460PP, SH, ABS1 5/6.
ib, Classic Supercar Festival(560PP/SH), Winner!
- Aggressive Alignment preferred. 👍
 
danbojte
Made the changes for the track version only. There's a lot of improvement. 👍
Click to expand...

Track version only ? :confused: You mean the 420/450 PP 45/55 or 42/58 distribution ? Improvement is a good thing :D

danbojte
It's 460PP now.
Click to expand...

Oh, must have missed it, will update the Star Road 240Z :) Thanks.

FSportIS
@Ridox2JZGTE Wow, thank you for taking so much time answer my questions and offer so much insight. I share similar goals like yours too. I play this game more for driving simulation as the game title is intended for. The more real it gets, the better the game experience is for me. I don't really care about being super competitive or do everything at all cost just to get recognized. I also notice some tunes that have ridiculous height, spring rates, LSD adjustment. They don't make much sense in reality but the tunes seem to run fine in game. That seems to be a little disconnection with the reality.

You mentioned about JDM, i guess you mean Japanese Domestic Import which refers to Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Lexus cars plus tons of performance parts and accessories from Japan? If so, guess what, I'm in the same boat. I currently own two Lexus IS250 and Lexus IS350 with many JDM parts on them :D. My dream is to swap a 2JZ engine into the IS lol. I'm also saving up money for the Lexus ISF or the Lexus RCF which is competing favorably against the BMW M4 :D

I also see that the game totally miss out the wheel/tires specification such as width, height, radius, offset etc when these can be essential. Suspension tune has to be adjusted a bit with different wheel/tires set up because they are related together. Anyways, i hope this new feature will be integrated in GT7 or something.

I will try out more of your tunes. By the way, real modern performance cars have ABS system. However, in game, there seem to be 2 schools of thought: abs-1 vs. abs-0. You did explain it there a bit.

I have follow up questions:
1. What is closer to real ABS? Is it abs-0 or abs-1? Why? (My preference: I don't care what drives faster or easier to drive, i want to drive what is MORE REAL)
2. What is the difference between real life ABS system vs. in game ABS system? full detailed technical elaboration on this is greatly appreciated.
3. Are your tunes mainly for abs-0? Is there a generic conversion method of tunes going from abs-0 to abs-1 or vice versa? What i mean is that let's say there is a tune with abs-1 in mind, now how should we adjust it to suit the abs-0 crowds using that same tune and vice versa?
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Nice cars you got there mate :)

For your questions :

1. ABS in GT6 is not simulating real life ABS, so there's nothing in GT that can remotely represent ABS system in real life. The ABS in GT6 is a brake assist which also gives stability to the car, this is why you can tweak from 1 to 10, 10 giving more grip for cornering load under braking, which works in similar ways to EBD + brake based ASM in real life. If you want a clean uninterrupted experience :P disable ABS, this way, you decide everything, how much brake force to apply.

2. Real life ABS system is rather a passive one, it detects wheel lock ups and modulate the brake at a speed no human can achieve, this is why in real cars with ABS, when you brake very hard, and ABS system detects grip loss which leads to lock ups, the brake pedal will judders/pulsates. A sign that the system is modulating the brake force to prevent lock ups, the pedal may also gets stiffer. Real life ABS is not perfect, given certain conditions, tire and road surface, ABS even during active operation will still result in lock ups/skids under sudden heavy braking/evasive maneuver. There's Best Motoring video feature that test braking performance of Evos, WRX, NSX and RX7 while turning into a corner until full stop, the ABS equipped cars were skidding at close to stopping, some even at higher speed. The drivers were on full brake all the way while turning the wheel into a corner. These ABS system traits are not simulated in GT5/6.

ABS systems in real life also can be reprogrammed, from street/road car map to high threshold mapping for racing in the dry or more aggressive map for the wet. The aim of real life ABS to manage braking threshold FOR the driver.

ABS in GT6 works simply as computer aid, you can jam the brakes and all is well :P , maybe even feels like you have brake system/physics from ridge racer when you have ABS at 10 :lol:

2. I drive with ABS 0 since GT5 release day :) All of my work here are on ABS 0. There's not generic conversion from ABS 0 to ABS 1 or vice versa, each tuner have unique style and preference, so it's really up to the driver to adjust to their liking/style. Adjusting a tune to your style usually starts with brake balance, ABS 1 tune differs in the way brake balance are set compared ABS 0. The reason is very clear, ABS 1 allows easier braking with no risk of lockups.

When you have ABS 1 tune, simply lower the brake balance if driving it on ABS 0, usually more front bias works well.
For ABS 0 tune, driving it on ABS 1, usually you can use ABS 0 brake balance, but sometimes the value might be too low and you may need to increase rear value more to aid in braking entry rotation.
 
danbojte
45/55 - Real life stock,
42/58 - Real life track. :P :)
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So 45/55 with the original damper and ARB, and 42/58 with the added update on damper and ARB ? Still confused on the stock part, do you mean the alignment/setup from the previous MR2 on stock power + CH replica :)

danbojte
Some smooth inputs are still required, but the pleasure is present. ;)
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You can reduce the camber at the rear to between 1.0 and 2.2, it may help making the car less hairy :)
 
Ridox2JZGTE
So 45/55 with the original damper and ARB, and 42/58 with the added update on damper and ARB ? Still confused on the stock part, do you mean the alignment/setup from the previous MR2 on stock power + CH replica :)



You can reduce the camber at the rear to between 1.0 and 2.2, it may help making the car less hairy :)
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:lol: You wrote like this in the tune:
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life stock ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
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So, I applied the new damper extension & ARB for 42/58 version. :P ;)
 
@Ridox2JZGTE
first of all your work has inspired me :)

if i were to send you a couple setups i made inspired by the Old Campionato Italiano Superturismo would you take a look at them and tell me how "reality close" they drive or feel in your opinion?

I tuned a 156 and an accord '00 (pretty happy of the accord overall and on CS obviously great on SS, the 156 is very cool and is very snappy and responsive on SS while drags along on the CS tires)...

Also what puzzles me is that on the before mentioned championship they were running with slicks (that would probably be RH in gt6) but i think that the cars get way too much fast and grippy that way....

how do you choose tyres for your replicas? based on performances or on real tires used by the serie? (i guess the first?)
 
azidahaka
@Ridox2JZGTE
first of all your work has inspired me :)

if i were to send you a couple setups i made inspired by the Old Campionato Italiano Superturismo would you take a look at them and tell me how "reality close" they drive or feel in your opinion?

I tuned a 156 and an accord '00 (pretty happy of the accord overall and on CS obviously great on SS, the 156 is very cool and is very snappy and responsive on SS while drags along on the CS tires)...

Also what puzzles me is that on the before mentioned championship they were running with slicks (that would probably be RH in gt6) but i think that the cars get way too much fast and grippy that way....

how do you choose tyres for your replicas? based on performances or on real tires used by the serie? (i guess the first?)
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I have an Accord replica built based on a Japanese tuning company test car with accurate real world alignment implemented, that I plan to post in the next few weeks as I got loads of cars in queue :)

I usually decide which tires by referring to real life lap times if available. For stock Honda Accord Euro R CL7, the real life record at Tsukuba is 1:11.4xs, while the Alfa 156 GTA ( 250PS ) at Tsukuba 1:12.9xs, I'm guessing both will need either CH or CM or something in between, but I'll go CM tire based on my Accord Euro R replica build :P

Most often, hard compound slick in real life would be best represented with SS tire in GT6, as evidenced by my GT4 cars replica. All of my GT4 replicas are on SS, even with exact power to weight + gearing specs, the GT6 replica can lap a second or 2 quicker than possible in real life ( benchmark Silverstone GP GT4 qualifying lap record at around 2:14s :) Mostly because GT6 is still lacking in aero + drag physics, cars can accelerate well at higher speed.

I might post several cars on my next play :)
 
Ridox2JZGTE
I have an Accord replica built based on a Japanese tuning company test car with accurate real world alignment implemented, that I plan to post in the next few weeks as I got loads of cars in queue :)

I usually decide which tires by referring to real life lap times if available. For stock Honda Accord Euro R CL7, the real life record at Tsukuba is 1:11.4xs, while the Alfa 156 GTA ( 250PS ) at Tsukuba 1:12.9xs, I'm guessing both will need either CH or CM or something in between, but I'll go CM tire based on my Accord Euro R replica build :P

Most often, hard compound slick in real life would be best represented with SS tire in GT6, as evidenced by my GT4 cars replica. All of my GT4 replicas are on SS, even with exact power to weight + gearing specs, the GT6 replica can lap a second or 2 quicker than possible in real life ( benchmark Silverstone GP GT4 qualifying lap record at around 2:14s :) Mostly because GT6 is still lacking in aero + drag physics, cars can accelerate well at higher speed.

I might post several cars on my next play :)
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One importAnt question, you create your tune and test them online right?
 
azidahaka
One importAnt question, you create your tune and test them online right?
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Nope, I'm still on 1.08 with broken camber and I always test the car offline as these replicas are rarely competitive online ( realistic setup is not as quick as setup aimed at online racing/time trial - where tuners uses ride height, low lock LSD - close to open diff and zero camber for those who still believe zero is the faster on 1.10 ) :(

I drove my Accord Euro R replica after I read you thread, Grand Valley Speedway, offline test drive, CS tire, stock gearbox and clutch, real life weight figure and distribution, custom tuner coilover setup with alignment and custom LSD ( Cusco RS ), 364HP, 2:17s. This is on 1.08, camber reduces grip and I have quite some camber all around :lol:
 
Harsk100
Could you guys put the tunes of replicas of SuperTurismo and the Accord, please?
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I didn't build superturismo replica, the accord euro r is a street car replica, I just added more power to see how it fared to azidahaka thread lap time. I will post the Accord with the Toyota bB and Maserati MC GT4. I might include 2 other version of Accord with 2 different coilover setup ( handles differently ) and Toyota bB with 450PP + swapped transmission replica for A spec racing.
 

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