Shelby Cobra 427 '66 Tune?

142
United States
NV
LiveWire11C
Searched the forums, but could not find a tune for the Cobra. I am having a tough time tuning mine. All upgrades except hood (not sure if even available), windows (same), no eng 3, no super charger. Pretty sure the rest is maxed.

Anyone got a tune?

Tranny- 224MPH top speed

LSD 15/45/25

Height- -20/-20
Springs- 5.5/5.5
Damp (Ext)- 4/4
Damp (Comp)- 5/5
Anti-Roll- 3/3
Camber- 1.5/1.2
Toe- 0/0.30
 
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Searched the forums, but could not find a tune for the Cobra. I am having a tough time tuning mine. All upgrades except hood (not sure if even available), windows (same), no eng 3, no super charger. Pretty sure the rest is maxed.

Anyone got a tune?

Cars producing too much oversteer?
 
Yeah, pretty much. Seems like I just make it understeer trying to tune it out. First time I have tried tuning LSD too.
 
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Suspension

Ride Height: -5 / -8
Spring Rate: 4.8 / 4.4
Dampers (Ext): 4 / 4
Dampers (Comp) 4 / 4
Anti Roll Bars: 3 / 3

Wheel Alignment:

Camber Angle: 0.5 / 0.5
Toe Angle: -0.05 / 0.32
 
Thanks for posting your tune. :) It under-steered more than I liked. I will post my revised tune tonight, I kind of combined our tunes. I guess mine doesn't really over-steer, as much as it struggles with all that power. It is almost 700 hp, but right around 1000 kg.

I think it is the LSD that needs to be tuned more than anything else. I will have to experiment with it tonight, since I have messed with the LSD before.
 
Try this, still a work in progress, but Bob can usually drive it.

Transmission- 224 mph
Ride Height- -20/-20
Spring Rate- 6.0/5.8
Dampers (Extension)- 4/4 (7/7 has been suggested, but I have not tried)
Dampers (Compression)- 5/6
Anti- Roll Bars- 4/4
Camber- 1.7/1.5
Toe- -0.05/.035

Also, if someone is good at tuning LSDs, this probably needs it.
 
i LOVE this car, my brother in law also owns a replica (he owns loads of classic muscle cars!).

Anyhow, I've managed to tune it so extreme levels, even the steering is pretty solid but the braking is still a kamikaze trip. Whenever I brake too hard, the end goes out of control ( in 0.1 second or so ) and it's impossible to stop it from doing that really.

Can't figure out why it's doing this. Tried brake bias, suspension, cambers, toe's everything :(
 
Try this, still a work in progress, but Bob can usually drive it.

Transmission- 224 mph
Ride Height- -20/-20
Spring Rate- 6.0/5.8
Dampers (Extension)- 4/4 (7/7 has been suggested, but I have not tried)
Dampers (Compression)- 5/6
Anti- Roll Bars- 4/4
Camber- 1.7/1.5
Toe- -0.05/.035

Also, if someone is good at tuning LSDs, this probably needs it.



I used your setup on my Cobra with the Damper extension at 4 like you had it and again with them at 7 like it was suggested to you. In my honest opinion I feel the 7/7 extension is much better.
 
I think I got a setup for you to try. I just blasted multiple hours fine tuning, testing, tuning, repeat-- I was convinced this car could win the Expert Historic Racing Cup. It can't (see below if you want the run down), but on the up side, I made it drive pretty well in all my testing:

Everyone is trying to out-tune the oversteer...this car doesn't oversteer. Put bad tires on it and find out. It oversteers heavily under braking, and when releasing the brake, it UNDERsteers like a mother under neutral speed (no accel or decel)--and this is the characteristic you want to gauge when you are playing with suspension settings. And of course it overDRIVES exiting corners because of the tremendous torque. That's power, not handling. This setup is on a Cobra 427 that is fully tuned with everything you can buy for it; 756hp/918kg (if your hp is higher, I may just need oil change by now)

Brakes: 7/3. 6/4 still oversteers under trail braking, 8/2 kills all your braking power
Tranny: 186 for Deep Forest. Resist the urge to ramp the top speed up in an effort to prevent wheel-spin under acceleration; you'll be killing the best thing the car has going for it. Learn to be feather light on the gas
LSD: 15/47/23. I know the least about how this works, so try your own combo
Suspension:
Ride Height- -17/-8
Spring Rate- 6.0/7.3
Dampers (Extension)- 5/7
Dampers (Compression)- 4/6
Anti- Roll Bars- 3/4
Camber- 1.3/0.8
Toe- 0.02/0.05

With racing soft tires, best I could do is 3rd on Deep Forest in Historic Car. The lack of ground-force and relative high center of gravity on this car just makes it impossible to compete with the Toyota race car that is always there, and one other, I think it was the 2J? Anyway, I finished the first lap riding 2nd place's bumper, and my last 4 laps were 1:15:400 or better and I still barely won 3rd... like 12 seconds behind the leader
 
i LOVE this car, my brother in law also owns a replica (he owns loads of classic muscle cars!).

Anyhow, I've managed to tune it so extreme levels, even the steering is pretty solid but the braking is still a kamikaze trip. Whenever I brake too hard, the end goes out of control ( in 0.1 second or so ) and it's impossible to stop it from doing that really.

Can't figure out why it's doing this. Tried brake bias, suspension, cambers, toe's everything :(

Yeah I know what you mean. Are you using a wheel or controller? Even with the balance at 7/3, I had to be REALLY conscious of the rate at which I was releasing the brake pedal (I'm using a DFGT wheel). I think the issue is that the car is so front-heavy while the overall weight is so light, that when you release the brake under any kind of steering, the weight gets thrown very abruptly forward, and that creates what's called trail brake rotation. If you're using a controller, map your gas and brake to L2/R2 so you have some range on them, tune the car so it steers well under neutral velocity, and then concentrate REALLY hard on the balance between a gradual brake-release and steering input
 
Biggest problem with the car is that its way too light. Got beaten on the last corner of Deep Forest. No problem with oversteer or braking. Setup is standard.
 
i LOVE this car, my brother in law also owns a replica (he owns loads of classic muscle cars!).

Anyhow, I've managed to tune it so extreme levels, even the steering is pretty solid but the braking is still a kamikaze trip. Whenever I brake too hard, the end goes out of control ( in 0.1 second or so ) and it's impossible to stop it from doing that really.

Can't figure out why it's doing this. Tried brake bias, suspension, cambers, toe's everything :(

http://lotustuninggt5.moonfruit.com/ new setup is on there, its pretty awesome but make sure you have the specified parts too
 
I used your setup on my Cobra with the Damper extension at 4 like you had it and again with them at 7 like it was suggested to you. In my honest opinion I feel the 7/7 extension is much better.

will try this set up tonight! trying to get the historic cup done with my cobra :nervous:
 
i LOVE this car, my brother in law also owns a replica (he owns loads of classic muscle cars!).

Anyhow, I've managed to tune it so extreme levels, even the steering is pretty solid but the braking is still a kamikaze trip. Whenever I brake too hard, the end goes out of control ( in 0.1 second or so ) and it's impossible to stop it from doing that really.

Can't figure out why it's doing this. Tried brake bias, suspension, cambers, toe's everything :(

A little trick from my motorcycle days, make sure your rear brakes have a higher value than the front ones
 
I saw this and figured I'd try it out. Wound up with this set:

Ballast Position - 50
Transmission - 205mph
LSD - 18,16,53
Ride Height - -15/-10
Spring Rate - 10.9/9.4
Dampers (Extension) - 7/7
Dampers (Compression) - 3/3
Anti-Roll Bars - 5/3
Camber Angle - 2.7/2.1
Toe Angle - -0.14/-0.22
Brake Balance - 8/4

The ballast position is a little bit of a "glitch" that lets you set weight distribution from front to back, and was a little handy here in counteracting the understeer caused by the spring rate and the anti-roll bars, and allowing the toe angle and ride height give it just the right amount of rear-end drift. The braking sensitivity was boosted all the way up to 53 to keep the car settled when braking at speed into off-balance corners such as turn one at Laguna Seca, while the initial torque and acceleration sensitivity balance each other out so that any, if all under/oversteer is created by the suspension settings. In doing this though, there is still a slight bit of inside wheel spin when you really pound the throttle out of a tight bend, so pay attention to the amount of gas you give it upon acceleration.

I ran one or two laps around these tracks just for a quick test of the machine not particularly pushing it and shaving time off where it could be cut, so on any of them you could easily knock out another second or two with a bit of practice:
Trial Mountain - 1:27.4
Deep Forest - 1:14.3
Laguna Seca - 1:25.2

So there you have it. Good luck!

-JLawrence
 
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I've got one of my Oddjob B-spec Bobs riding the Cobra in the 18 lap race in 'Like the wind' with various settings. It works well as a fun screensaver and gives me occasional credit refills (31000 cr). I have this weird idea that somehow Bob's AI training will teach him to finally master this car. His speed varies from 170 km/h to 310 km/h. Occasional bullying by the supercar drivers so I imagine Oddjob does a fair bit of swearing but nobody hears him because of the engine noise. I toy with the idea of the race being a showcase of old vs new. The imaginary speaker goes 'and heeeere's the Cobra!'. I hope the audience likes it anyway.
 
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