Skyline GTR 34 settings

  • Thread starter Thread starter orCa
  • 17 comments
  • 9,866 views
Messages
183
Messages
hektorlektor
hi there,
can anyone tell me the best settings(for good handling) for a skyline GT-R 34 ?

thanks in advance :)
 
hi there,
can anyone tell me the best settings(for good handling) for a skyline GT-R 34 ?

thanks in advance :)
Try this, for Vspec though.
Spring Rate: 20.0 / 14.0
Ride Height: 85 / 85
Damper Bound: 5 / 5
Damper Rebound: 5 / 5
Camber: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe: 0.20 / -0.05
Stabilizer: 1 / 1
BBC: 1 / 12
transmission: move final drive to 5.500 then move auto to 12
downforce: 0.52 / 0.85
LSD : 1/1 6/6 6/6

let me know how you feel
 
I think you should remove the LSD, and soften up the springs.

Having springs that stiff is never good, especially in GT2 where there is bumpy grass and bumpy roads. :scared:

Trust me, try to race a fast car with downforce on the test track with stiff suspension setup, the car will bounce while you are turning, causing you to crash and go into the air, then spin 50 times.

Set them at around 8.0/10.0 for spring rate, remove toe angles, camber angle 3.0/1.5, bound at 3/4 and rebound at 6/8. Then set the stabilizers at 4/5, and lower the rear downforce, that causes understeer. Put it around 10-15 clicks higher than the front downforce.
 
A little offtopic... When I tune R34 GT-R to the max, it gets 774hp, BUT, when it's accelerating, you can see that the tachometer arrow is bouncing from 5000 till 8000 RPM, which doesn't seem to be normal. I spent some time on changing settings, however, that effect disappeared only when I've reduced the power to ~600hp and removed the racing muffler. So, the question is, what is that :) And how can I remove it to make my R34 accelerate well.
 
A.A.Z. was you turning, or rolling over bumps with the Skyline? All skylines with ATTESA have the RPM bounce a bit when you turn, because it is 4WD at times and 2WD at other times.
 
I think you should remove the LSD, and soften up the springs.

Having springs that stiff is never good, especially in GT2 where there is bumpy grass and bumpy roads. :scared:
Unfortunately, car with stiff spring rate usually have the best laptime. I learn this from setup vs setup, side by side test, and other laptime comparison. I only use this rule in GT series though, never on other racing game. In GT4 I have bitter experience when someone critisize me for not using stiff spring rate, which should make the car reel the road.

Stiffer spring rate has better grip, this is my personal opinion based on laptime and 1000m test. On GPL, Viper Racing, Nascar Heat, Nascar Racing 2003, LFS, Racer, I would advise to use spring as soft as possible.

Downforce can be used to reduce bouncing on test track. Damper too. I usually want to keep spring rate high.

LSD is personal though. Some people like the stock LSD for R34.

A little offtopic... When I tune R34 GT-R to the max, it gets 774hp, BUT, when it's accelerating, you can see that the tachometer arrow is bouncing from 5000 till 8000 RPM, which doesn't seem to be normal. I spent some time on changing settings, however, that effect disappeared only when I've reduced the power to ~600hp and removed the racing muffler. So, the question is, what is that :) And how can I remove it to make my R34 accelerate well.
It happen because the engine flywheel is too light, or something similar. No momentum that hold the rpm to make it steady. What we can do to reduce it is:
- lower the flywheel rating, stock flywheel will give smoother acceleration than racing flywheel.
- do not equip carbon driveshaft.
- and the only thing we can do in race car, use high final drive.

This is the only reason I use this gear bellow for R34:
transmission: move final drive to 5.500 then move auto to 12
 
I think the RPM bouncing only happens with the 4WD cars, not any other drivetrain, as it only happen to all of my 4WD cars, including a 700HP R33 Race car. :odd:
 
:). I usually use final drive to cure that A.A.Z., It won't reduce acceleration as much as removing Racing flywheel or Carbon Driveshaft.

I think all very powerfull racecar have that problem, not just a 4WD. But it seems to be very noticeable on nissan, like in Nismo GTR LM (FR).
 
:). I usually use final drive to cure that A.A.Z., It won't reduce acceleration as much as removing Racing flywheel or Carbon Driveshaft.

I think all very powerfull racecar have that problem, not just a 4WD. But it seems to be very noticeable on nissan, like in Nismo GTR LM (FR).
Yeah I just remembered my R30 Silhouette, it was very shaky, but stable at the same time. :crazy:

In GT4 the same things happen when driving a car with high downforce, the RPM needle bounces, as well as a few 4WD's or MR's with TCS on.
 
:). I usually use final drive to cure that A.A.Z., It won't reduce acceleration as much as removing Racing flywheel or Carbon Driveshaft.

I think all very powerfull racecar have that problem, not just a 4WD. But it seems to be very noticeable on nissan, like in Nismo GTR LM (FR).
Yeah, I did the same. I just meant that everything you mentioned cures that too :)
 

Latest Posts

Back