stage 2 & stage 3???

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brewski187
Hi guys i have a question. I see some people say they have stage 2 and stage 3 turbos... how does that work? or do you just pick one or the other before certain races?
 
They differ between mid range (Stage 2) and hi rpm (Stage 3) turbos. In "real life" a mid range turbo would spool at 4-5k rpms (Evo X) where a Hi RPM turbo would spool at 5.5-6.5k (Evo X).
Bigger turbos make Bigger power but they suffer from turbo lag (Lack of boost being produced in the lower RPMS). In an overall scenario a mid-range turbo would be the "best" because you end up spending alot of time between 4-7k (most cars) but on the wangan you would want a big turbo for your 6th gear top speed pulls.
Hope this helped.
When all else fails, Test and Re-Tune.
 
You can buy all three of them in the part shop and install them. In the tuning/settings screen in the pre-race lobby, you can put a check in the checkbox for each part to use them - so you can alter your car tune and thus use different turbo's for different races.

Does not work for certain upgrades, such as for the engine or weight reductions.
 
so basically use a stage 2 for the small tracks with more corners/less straights and a stage 3 for the big high speed tacks? i no i fair bit about cars but im not a turbo man and admittedly know very little about them

whenever there is a supercharger option ill always pick that its worth the slightly less hp
 
I just wrote this in a different thread, so I will copy and paste here, too.

In real life, I work on cars. The way a turbo works is that it forces air through the intake manifold into the piston. A non turbo'd engine isn't very capable of increasing air volume through the pistons because atmospheric pressure won't allow it. The only air it can pull in on it's own is during the downward stroke of the piston (in case you don't know, the combination of fuel, air, and spark is what creates hp, and it's a very careful balance of the three that create a maximum amount of power).
With the turbo literally forcing air into the intake manifold and into each cylinder, it can overcome that atmospheric barrier of air pressure by a few psi. The turbo on my last engine I built created 18psi at full boost, around 5800rpms.
Here is the next dilemma, the bigger a turbo is and the more psi it can generate inside of the intake manifold, the more time it takes to spool up and create that psi. A turbo designed to create 4-8 psi can spool relatively quickly, thus creating power more efficiently at lower rpms (stage 1 turbo). A little bigger, more psi...better midrange power, usually around 10-18 psi. Really big turbos, 20+psi, need more time, thus are more efficient at higher rpms.
Sorry for the rant, I hope someone learned something.
 
Cool. I'm glad I know this now. Although I feel bad for myself when I used to play GT1 when I was like 7 since I would buy all turbochargers for every car I would really like. The reason being, I thought the Turbo stages were similar to the weight reduction stages that you need to buy all stages in order to achieve great HPs lol, so I probably ended up spending millions of dollars on unnecessary Turbo Kits.
 
Haha. Well, lesson learned. There are actually quite a few errors with tuning upgrades in this one. For example, if you were to buy a new intake or exhaust manifold for your car in real life, and then later buy a turbo kit, odds are that the kit would come with a different exhaust manifold, and the intake would require some serious modification for the turbo kit to work.

Plus, I have always hated that the engine upgrades never actually go into detail about what is actually being done. I'll do the upgrades every time anyway, but what is actually being done? New camshaft(s) valve springs, lifters, rods, bored cylinders, forged pistons, a/c and p/s delete, head spacer, etc, etc. The list goes on and on. I would rather GT5 put more focus on this aspect than whether or not I can see the Honda headquarters in Tokyo's track.
 
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