Stop Overmodding a Car

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AP1

AP1

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This is somewhat hard to describe, and I apologize if it is a stupid question. How exactly do you know when to stop modding your car? For example, I purchased a 330i to use it on Schwarzwald League A. I had every decent upgrade on it, and it puts out 325 horsepower. I blew the competition away by at least 20 seconds. Another is the Tacoma X-Runner, 430 horsepower, won by at least 10 seconds. I've got a Impreza STi Coupe '99 right now and it's begging to be pushed in Race of Pleiades and Boxer Spirit. But starting now, I don't want to dump a trunkload of money into modding a car. I want to earn some extra Spec points. Leaving the competition eating your dust is good, but I don't want to waste money and get 6 points each race.

Also, are station wagons eligible for European Hot Hatch Car Championship?
 
You really only need to install a turbo to win. Others are for extra performance. Get brakes and suspension though. I don't think station wagons are eligible though, haven't raced that so I wouldn't know.
 
In general, use preview to see the horsepower and tyre type of the AI cars (it only shows you the last place car's stats though, so you might want to preview a few times to get a better idea). From that, you can guess at the right tuning level for whatever car you pick.
 
i usually do just exhust, racing chip, close or super close gearing, semi racing suspension. Most of the time its either just enough for a close race. Sometimes even that is a little overkill.
 
I usually put in a semi racing exhaust, racing chip, weight reduction 1 and racing tyres. Thats been enough for all except for two or three manufacturuers series and the french series. All up it costs about 20k.
 
I usually start with a chip and softer tyres, after one race you can usually tell how modded the others are.
 
I always start with racing chip (cheaper way to get +-10hp), brakes, cluches and flyweels (faster gear shifting). If it does not help, go and get more hp, maybe tires and suspension. If that does not help either, go ahead and blow up the thing, or maybe you may just want to try another car... (I wish I did it before spending a lot of cash on the YelloBird).
 
Try the 200pt thread and Hispeeds' Stock Car thread - there are list in there of good races that either don't need any mods, or if they do people will have listed them.

66.
 
Yea AP1, takes route's advise and check out the 200 pt thread for good car/race matchups. However there are some really good drivers over there making suggestions :bowdown: Note route's signature.

route_66
Try the 200pt thread and Hispeeds' Stock Car thread - there are list in there of good races that either don't need any mods, or if they do people will have listed them.

66.
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Thanks but I'm not that good (feigns modesty!) and there's plenty of races there that aren't too difficult. Something for everyone (at least I hope so!)

66.
 
If I cant win a race with a stock car I will then spend money on a "Sport" tune. This includes the first type of every 3-part modification (i.e Sport Muffler, 1st Flywheel etc.) When it comes to LSD I always use either 1 way for FWD and 1.5 for all the others (2 way sucks when turning) The only racing modification i apply are brakes. Oh yeah, so i can return the car to stock I only use parts I can remove.

This allows you to make a race a little easier while not blowing away competition. If the car still sucks after a sport tune then I have 2 options, Semi racing tune or buy a new car for the same race.

I dunno, its just the wasy I play. I usually find, also, that if you enter a race stock, the cars will most likely be tuned to a certain extent. If you cant win then just retry the race and apply tehe sport tune setting. That seems to work good for me.
 
Sorry for the 2nd post so soon but, you can typically over match the odds with additional stopping power either with a brake balancer or racing brakes, also custom LSD will majorly effect negotiating corner entry and exit with the proper tuning, if that's not enough either a semi-racing suspension or custom suspension will drastically effect you overall track speed. Additional horsepower typically isn't necessary. Most all of my heads up and underdog races are on S1's, brakes, 200 ballasts (well placed of course), and LSD. I'm yet to take route's, jdw's, hispeeds, ank's strategy to name a few and jump into N tires.

JParker
 
I usually just go racing(original on applilicable cars) suspension and brakes. This usually wins pretty easily. For the Race of Pleiades I used a STi Sport Wagon with these mods and got 114 pts per race.
 
Since I don't care about maintaining a high win percentage, I'm pretty conservative with mods. I always take any car I just bought or won into the next race completely stock. Sometimes I win unmodded, other times I see the other cars motoring off into the distance. By how fast I get behind I can pretty much gauge what mods will be necessary. I usually start with all the cheap mods, oil, chip , lighten 1 etc. If that's not enough, I look at tire and drive train upgrades. If that's not enough I get a muffler and/or go to either lowest available level Tune or Turbo depending on if it is originally an NA or turbo car. Rairly do I need to go on to the higher $ mods. I've only used super charger once (Speed 12 in Like the Wind). I've never used NOS and only used a wing in the Opel Speedster race just to see if it made things easier (it did).

Depends on your philosophy. If you like to blow them away or like to see those huge HP numbers, pile on those Turbo 3s and 4s. If you like tight races, creep up on them with small incrmental mods, but be prepared to runs some races multiple times to get a win.
 
bigjoe
Since I don't care about maintaining a high win percentage, I'm pretty conservative with mods. I always take any car I just bought or won into the next race completely stock. Sometimes I win unmodded, other times I see the other cars motoring off into the distance. By how fast I get behind I can pretty much gauge what mods will be necessary. I usually start with all the cheap mods, oil, chip , lighten 1 etc. If that's not enough, I look at tire and drive train upgrades. If that's not enough I get a muffler and/or go to either lowest available level Tune or Turbo depending on if it is originally an NA or turbo car. Rairly do I need to go on to the higher $ mods. I've only used super charger once (Speed 12 in Like the Wind). I've never used NOS and only used a wing in the Opel Speedster race just to see if it made things easier (it did).

Depends on your philosophy. If you like to blow them away or like to see those huge HP numbers, pile on those Turbo 3s and 4s. If you like tight races, creep up on them with small incrmental mods, but be prepared to runs some races multiple times to get a win.
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Like bigJoe I don't mod unless I am getting my arse kicked badly. And since I don't care about winning percentage either I sometimes delay the upgrades until I am certain i have done the fastest lap I can with the stock car. That is, without spending more than an hour or two in each race (with the exception of the rallying where I suck so bad even 1 point races are tough for me :-( )


Besides, there are plenty of prize cars that will give you <10 point races in most series. So even those low point races can be won for $0. See my "Scrooge" threads in the writeups forum

Read Part I in the following thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=64368
Read Part II in the following thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66151
Read Part III in the following thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67134
 
I usually throw on a racing suspension and some tranny mods, and if I think it will be necessary I'll buy nitrous to use just in case. I usually end up not having to use it, but sometimes the computer's cars just have way too much straightaway speed. For instance, in the TVR series, I used a Cerbera with racing suspension and tranny mods, which was plenty to win most of the races. But when the Speed 12 showed up on a track with long straights, I had to use the nitrous just so he didn't get too big of a lead. This saves me from having to buy other engine mods that are more expensive, and you have the choice of using it or not. Plus, nitrous (to the best of my knowledge) has no affect on you a-spec points for a race, oddly enough.
 
I don't really know I bought three GT's within the first 4 days having the game; one to be out of the factory stock, one that is semi-tuned, and one that will contend with the best of the JGTC and DTM racers
 
I fully mod a lot of my cars or get very close. You might think of that as almost cheating beacaus the AI wound'nt be able to keep up, but you have the option of taking mods off or even having 3 main setting groups when you use the SET A/ SET B/ SET C option in the settings menu. I have done this when I want a challeng or just to see what the car is like with certain things on or off. So I think just go ahead and fully mod your cars you can always change the parts in the settings menu.
 
Yeah, I love that feature, since I use my STi for everything I can. I can easily switch from the rally settings to the road settings. Very nice.
 
I think you'll find race tires (if you can use them) are more than enough to easily defeat opponents in the identical car without race tires. Try it out if you don't believe me.
 
We know, the race tyre's offer a HUGE performance gain over the road and sports ones.
 

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