t-gt pedals - conical brake mod - no calibration?

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depp47

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Hey everyone - so I know that the pedals are supposed to self-calibrate based on how far they are initially pressed, but so far I can only get full braking input with the pedal fully pressed regardless of any calibration attempts. With the brake mod in, it is impossible to get past about half with the braking input. For now I've had to take the mod out but don't like the lack of progression.

I've searched around, seems some others have the same issue but I haven't found the solution. Others don't seem to have any problems. I've checked the firmware and seem to have the latest version. What am I missing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks.
 
I think it needs a certain level of input to recognise that it might be at full travel. Adjust the brake mod so the pedal goes as far as it can.

Then just hold the pedal still at its full travel and it should calibrate. I have the t300gt so different wheel but same pedals. I found that if I bought the brake mod out towards the pedal too much so there was only limited motion, it didn't calibrate, it just stayed at half braking
 
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I have t-gt with the mod and no problem in gts. One does have to push the pedal a bit harder to achieve 100%, but thats the point of the mod.
 
Yes, thanks, I've heard that many times but it doesn't work at all. No matter what I do no calibration occurs and the brake mod is unusable. Possibly my unit is defective. I've gotten used to not using it.
 
depp47
Yes, thanks, I've heard that many times but it doesn't work at all. No matter what I do no calibration occurs and the brake mod is unusable. Possibly my unit is defective. I've gotten used to not using it.
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that is strange. If they work without the mod, they should also work with the mod. Did you screw in the mod fully? (farthest from the pedal as possible?)
 
Yup, properly installed for sure, adjusted for maximum travel distance - works fine in other games where there is explicit controllable in-menu calibration. In GT Sport the automagic calibration simply doesn't occur - tried everything.
 
Very weird indeed.

I have also no idea, but the reason why I removed the mod is, the harder you press in the heat of a race, the more was the 100%-mark moved further away.

Because the rubber cannot provide a solid physical limit like metal or so.

After playing an hour, the 40% brake-bar-point for example was afterwards at the 50% point.

Without the mod the brake pedal of the T-GT has really a veeeery long travel way, but I keep saying myself that at least the fine dosing is easier.
 
It used to work without a problem for me. The initial press ingame should determin the travel. There are LC mods out there for t3pa pedals. I would recommend those to elliminate any issues with Pots. sim racing solutions UK (UK), Ricmotec just designed a new one for T3PA (USA) and loadcellmod.com (NL/EU)

Krypton78
Very weird indeed.

I have also no idea, but the reason why I removed the mod is, the harder you press in the heat of a race, the more was the 100%-mark moved further away.

Because the rubber cannot provide a solid physical limit like metal or so.

After playing an hour, the 40% brake-bar-point for example was afterwards at the 50% point.

Without the mod the brake pedal of the T-GT has really a veeeery long travel way, but I keep saying myself that at least the fine dosing is easier.
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Did the mod "move" at all? AKA was it screwed in tight?
 
PocketZeven
It used to work without a problem for me. The initial press ingame should determin the travel. There are LC mods out there for t3pa pedals. I would recommend those to elliminate any issues with Pots. sim racing solutions UK (UK), Ricmotec just designed a new one for T3PA (USA) and loadcellmod.com (NL/EU)



Did the mod "move" at all? AKA was it screwed in tight?
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I have the same issue as @Krypton78. The initial calibration is good but once I have a panic brake situation I have to press to that level from then on. I've been thinking of an easy way to add a hard stop as well to eliminate this moving target situation but haven't come up with a suitable/easy solution.

As for the OP's issue I have no idea, either an ingame issue (if it works on other games) or not pressing hard enough to activate the calibration, but I would think this second option is unlikely.
 
FPV MIC
I have the same issue as @Krypton78. The initial calibration is good but once I have a panic brake situation I have to press to that level from then on. I've been thinking of an easy way to add a hard stop as well to eliminate this moving target situation but haven't come up with a suitable/easy solution.

As for the OP's issue I have no idea, either an ingame issue (if it works on other games) or not pressing hard enough to activate the calibration, but I would think this second option is unlikely.
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a 100% correct description of the problem and my thoughts :)

@PocketZeven yes, it was tight screwed but I needed to remove it completely.

I think the solution would be remove somehow only the rubber and put something solid instead to get at least the goal of a shorter travel way.

Or cut the most of the rubber so that only the base of it remains, this should be solid enough. I think I'll try this in the evening :)
 
FPV MIC
I have the same issue as @Krypton78. The initial calibration is good but once I have a panic brake situation I have to press to that level from then on. I've been thinking of an easy way to add a hard stop as well to eliminate this moving target situation but haven't come up with a suitable/easy solution.
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Maybe you could drill a hole just below the conical rubber mod and add an additional bolt which will play the role of a hard stop like this:

Без име.png
 
super_gt
Maybe you could drill a hole just below the conical rubber mod and add an additional bolt which will play the role of a hard stop like this:

View attachment 768257
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That was exactly my first thought, except I was thinking of a fully threaded bolt with an extra nut for adjustment where you have washers, but I still have just over a year left on my warranty so I don't want to drill into anything. I've been trying to think of an easy way to mount off of the existing conical mod hole, but without knowing the thickness of the stop I need, and being unable to depress the pedal and measure at the same time it's hard to work out, especially as I'm mostly wheelchair bound.
 
20180924_233224.jpg
20180924_233343.jpg


So I just did it :)

I cuted The rubber as in the pics with a kitchen knife :)

Of course the pressure-control purpose of the mod isn't there anymore, but my goal was anyway to shorten the travel way of the pedal. And I can say I'm really happy with it, since I prefer the controling with travel way over controling with pressure!

@FPV MIC the problem what both of us described isn't there anymore, because with this geometry it isn't possible to compress the rubber anymore.

Btw, if you wonder about the pics, the shown pedal IS NOT the clutch pedal, I moved the brake pedal to the outside and the clutch pedal, which is useless for me, to the middle. Why? Because I find it more comfortable to have a good distance between my feets :)
 
Krypton78
View attachment 768305 View attachment 768306

So I just did it :)

I cuted The rubber as in the pics with a kitchen knife :)

Of course the pressure-control purpose of the mod isn't there anymore, but my goal was anyway to shorten the travel way of the pedal. And I can say I'm really happy with it, since I prefer the controling with travel way over controling with pressure!

@FPV MIC the problem what both of us described isn't there anymore, because with this geometry it isn't possible to compress the rubber anymore.

Btw, if you wonder about the pics, the shown pedal IS NOT the clutch pedal, I moved the brake pedal to the outside and the clutch pedal, which is useless for me, to the middle. Why? Because I find it more comfortable to have a good distance between my feets :)
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I don't mind the compression of the rubber, it's the moving target bit that annoys me. If PD included a calibration tool I wouldn't have to modify anything. Same problem occurred in GT6 when friends came over and we took turns using my T500, some would press harder than others and shift the pressure needed for full braking, so when it came back round to your turn you were never sure where the threshold was.

I would be very grateful if you could please do me a favor and measure the distance in the picture below when fully pressed.

20180924_233343.jpg
 
I have added a stop to my pedals by drilling a hole in the mounting plate and using some extra nuts and a bolt from the spares hardware pack that came with the pedals.
4D7ACE6D-F560-4C92-9C90-C48090BA0550.jpeg

I did this because I crushed the first cone mod I had after about 8hrs of use. The stop also makes calibrating the brakes more consistent.
 
depp47
Hey everyone - so I know that the pedals are supposed to self-calibrate based on how far they are initially pressed, but so far I can only get full braking input with the pedal fully pressed regardless of any calibration attempts. With the brake mod in, it is impossible to get past about half with the braking input. For now I've had to take the mod out but don't like the lack of progression.

I've searched around, seems some others have the same issue but I haven't found the solution. Others don't seem to have any problems. I've checked the firmware and seem to have the latest version. What am I missing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Click to expand...

I would have thought the calibration inconsistency issue would have been resolved by now. I just added a piece of 1" fuel hose to simulate the resistance and have been using this arrangement for about a month with no issues.
 

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PocketZeven
We have the same pedals and I used it till about January 2018 with no issues. I was suggesting it might have broken in a GTsport update. I assume you have no issues with other games?
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No, maybe I should describe the original problem more detailed then, because it had a physical reason, not a software.

The controler in TGT wheel takes the highest value from the potentiometer as the 100% mark, and as we know the value increases with the travel way of the pedal.
The wheel memorises that value, until a higher value comes (or restart game/ reconnect wheel).
Without the mod, the pedal has a solid physical limit, therefore it has a solid 100% point when you press the brake.

The problem when the mod is installed, the rubber is not a solid physical limit. And when you press from whatever reason (panic braking was a good word) harder then usual, you push the 100% point a little further away and therefore change the scaling at all, because you compress the rubber more. From that time on, you have to press at least as hard as the last maximum pressing time again to reach full braking. Not only by panic braking, the more hours you play, the mor you push the max point always a little a little away automaticly.

Now after cutting the edge of the rubber cone yesterday away, that problem disappeared, because as you can see in the pics, its not possible to compress the rubber anymore and therefore I have always the same 100% point.
 
Krypton78
No, maybe I should describe the original problem more detailed then, because it had a physical reason, not a software.

The controler in TGT wheel takes the highest value from the potentiometer as the 100% mark, and as we know the value increases with the travel way of the pedal.
The wheel memorises that value, until a higher value comes (or restart game/ reconnect wheel).
Without the mod, the pedal has a solid physical limit, therefore it has a solid 100% point when you press the brake.

The problem when the mod is installed, the rubber is not a solid physical limit. And when you press from whatever reason (panic braking was a good word) harder then usual, you push the 100% point a little further away and therefore change the scaling at all, because you compress the rubber more. From that time on, you have to press at least as hard as the last maximum pressing time again to reach full braking. Not only by panic braking, the more hours you play, the mor you push the max point always a little a little away automaticly.

Now after cutting the edge of the rubber cone yesterday away, that problem disappeared, because as you can see in the pics, its not possible to compress the rubber anymore and therefore I have always the same 100% point.
Click to expand...

Thats why I always made sure I pressed the pedal as for as possible on the initial calibration. I made sure I never made it past the 100% I used in calibration. So every session I just pressed the brake as hard as i could and reset the race. A little bit annoying, but I only did it at the beginning of every session.

Although I like the conical mod, I really wanted to try a Loadcell. I have since modded the T3p GT with a loadcell and eventually got the Fanatec CSL elite pedals.
 
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PocketZeven
Thats why I always made sure I pressed the pedal as for as possible on the initial calibration. I made sure I never made it past the 100% I used in calibration. So every session I just pressed the brake as hard as i could and reset the race. A little bit annoying, but I only did it at the beginning of of every session.

Although I like the conical mod, I really wanted to try a Loadcell. I have since modded the T3p GT with a loadcell and eventually got the Fanatec CSL elite pedals.
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I thought about it also tbh. But I guess since I'm fine with my pedals I wont try it out. But would be nice if you share youre impression and the comparsion in case you should get one.
 
Krypton78
I thought about it also tbh. But I guess since I'm fine with my pedals I wont try it out. But would be nice if you share youre impression and the comparsion in case you should get one.
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I highly recommend a pressure based brake against a distance based pedal. Like a real life brake muscle memory kicks in much more quickly and you will brake more consistent in the long run.
 

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