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Discussion in 'Project CARS 1' started by JBF77, May 8, 2015.
TBH, I've only tried the Classic settings, I'm not a PS4 user, but whatever floats yer boat!
There isn't any settings before Classic? You have Global, then Classic, Fy, 66% then Bumps? Did you click on the Banners at the top of the page? Click on a Banner then you have the FFB set up for each vehicle in the game.
I must be the only one playing with FFb at 100% and master scale at 12-14-16 (depending on car) and 900°?
if i set the scale higher i can move around my whole table while turning lol
Also it's way way too hard in turning for being a racecar; we have powersteering nowadays
That said, damn you sms and your 100000 settings!
degree of rotation
a scale for curbs/track effects strenght
This 4 settings would make up for ALL the BS setting in there... also why do i have to change settings fro track to track on same car? ?_? Why the FFb is so damn different from one track to another on same settings/car?
Most racecars dont have power steering though i thought?
Consoles users have the Fy+SopLateral settings followed by Classic, 66%, Bump Plus
I think it's the opposite, karts (obviously), Formula 3 and below don't have but the majority of the others (F1, LMP, GT3) do.
Because some tracks' surfaces are so damn different from each other
More seriously it'll be simply fixed if we had the possibility to apply one FFB setting to every track/car at once and still keep the option to tweak track by track.
It must be one of the concessions they did to release on time, like some missing option in the race conditions setup, hopefully they'll add it soon.
OK I've have spent a ton of time with ffb settings and it's come to my attention that there's some center spring active and it's messing with understeer feel I believe. Is there anyone who knows what scoop knee is. There is just to many settings in the main menu to be going back in forth to see how they effect the settings in the pit menu. Very frustrating. Ive tried higher master scale and lower x y z and then the opposite trying to find the sweet spot. There's also body scale and sop scale and I'm trying to find how they all can work together instead of drowning each other out. If this what I right is confusing is because I'm confused. Well I take that back, I believe I've got a good handle on it Im just trying to figure out how they work together. And as far as corner feel, I've just about given up on that and righting that off till they fix the center spring issue. Frustrating to say the least.
Figured I'd post here. I have a fractured wrist (scaffoid fracture) with a cast on (since last Sunday). I'm having some serious gaming withdrawals due to no right hand (casted but fingers (no thumb) exposed).
I'm looking for some advice on what settings (t300rs) can I lower to still retain details but less force - pretty much for one handed driving. The way I have it set up right now (increased values of Jack Spade's) requires two hands but I can't have my right hand on the wheel at all times (only if needed).
Any advice would be appreciated.
PS: How can I lessen the degrees of rotation? I'd do my own research but I'm sorta handicapped at the moment (actually 6 weeks ).
Sorry to here that. I would keep everything default on the main settings. Then per car and track I would keep your xyz low and the main scales low. You will still get feel per say but not to hurt your wrist.
You are not the only one. I'm using the Jack Spade's 66% settings, but with the master / sop scale turned down 30-40% of his recommendations. Good road feel and grip feel without overwhelming force.
Do any of you guys use Jack Spades settings? If so, what out if the 4 options do you use and why?
Classic, because I liked how it felt and can't be bothered to input new values for every single car as I've already done.
I use jack spades as said, with FFb at 65% and master scale at 18 or more depending on car. It's perfect.
i left my global FFB at 100% but sometimes lower the master scale per car if i think it's still too heavy, but not by a lot. probably depends which of the 4 options you go for.
I have a problem where after a few laps, the FFB significantly weakens and you can't feel anything. Is this to do with the cooling or is there a problem?
It's because your tires get heat? try to used lower FFB strenght and higher FFB scale
It also happens in Gran Turismo, so I'm thinking it may be a cooling problem. However, innthe last online races I took part in, the problem did not appear!
I use the SOP Lateral... simply because I didn't know the difference, and there's no way I'm doing it all over again.
I suppose you should test the 4 on a car you know well. See which one you like best and THEN apply them to all your cars. I wasn't that smart.
Wrong thread, sorry.
Had the same issue in GT6 and after I had contacted Thrustmaster and Pagain I was told it was due to the FFB settings being to great, the more force you have to turn the wheel the hotter the internals will get and as a safety mode the t300 goes into limp mode until it begins to cool down. Even with the firmware downloaded to the t300 for the cooling fans to switch on a lot earlier.
I was still running the g25 wheel FFB on gt6 when I began using the t300 so that's why i had the issue. If you like a ton of FFB then I would suggest to slowly reduce that setting until you don't have the limp mode issue. I personally have reduced the FFB quite a lot on the t300 because there is such a good feel through the wheel then the older g25.