T300RS settings

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Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan
Hello everyone!
I'm sorry for asking stupid quiestion, but i've tried to find information in the internet and this forum. But found some outdated information. Also i found that there was an update that have changed some settings.

I've just restarted my GTS "career" due to coronovirus, and faced some problems.
I can't find the best settings for the T300RS wheel.
Could someone explain which settings are "correct" or "normal" for this wheel to be competitive.

First of all, I've found that T300RS is having 1080. which rotation degree is ok? or it depends on which car are you using.

Secondly, does Controller Steering Sensitivity affects the steering?

Thirdly, what Force Feedback Max Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity are mostly welcome?

P.S. I have updated my wheel drivers to the latest ones.

Will be very appreciated for your replies.
 
Hello everyone!
I'm sorry for asking stupid quiestion, but i've tried to find information in the internet and this forum. But found some outdated information. Also i found that there was an update that have changed some settings.

I've just restarted my GTS "career" due to coronovirus, and faced some problems.
I can't find the best settings for the T300RS wheel.
Could someone explain which settings are "correct" or "normal" for this wheel to be competitive.


P.S. I have updated my wheel drivers to the latest ones.

Will be very appreciated for your replies.


Hey man! :)

“First of all, I've found that T300RS is having 1080. which rotation degree is ok? or it depends on which car are you using.”

In GT the DoR changes automatically based on the car you’re using, I leave each car at stock DoR(Degrees of a Rotation).

“Secondly, does Controller Steering Sensitivity affects the steering?”

No, it’s only for DS4 users.

“Thirdly, what Force Feedback Max Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity are mostly welcome?”

I use my T300 on 4 Torque and 9 Sens, but everyones preference will vary. That’s a good place to start though. Also, make sure to have you’re wheel in “forced cooling” mode so it doesn’t overheat in long sessions, just turn it on and leave it on always.

Welcome to GTP, I hope that helps at least a bit. :gtpflag:
 
Rockin similar settings to Pigems except for I use 4 torque and 10 sens.

Like he said though, just default settings otherwise. I didn’t muck around in the calibration tool outside of updating the firmware.
 
Thanks Pigems and Granadier for your replies! Already adjusted cooling settings. Now will try your torque and sensitivity. Atleast i have proper benchmark now. Thanks alot and good luck!
 
Make sure to have you’re wheel in “forced cooling” mode so it doesn’t overheat in long sessions, just turn it on and leave it on always.

@anss - just to reinforce the cooling issue. The following is very important if you want your wheel to live for a long time - after you have finished racing make sure that your wheel stays on until it is fully cool. I have a T500RS - this has a large FFB motor - the fan stays on for about 45 minutes after I stop racing - I leave the console on until the wheel is fully cool (the console needs to be on for the fan to run on the wheel - if it goes off prematurely the heat inside the casing continues to rise potentially causing damage to the electronics - I presume that the T300RS will be similar even though it uses a smaller motor, which generates less heat).
 
@anss - just to reinforce the cooling issue. The following is very important if you want your wheel to live for a long time - after you have finished racing make sure that your wheel stays on until it is fully cool. I have a T500RS - this has a large FFB motor - the fan stays on for about 45 minutes after I stop racing - I leave the console on until the wheel is fully cool (the console needs to be on for the fan to run on the wheel - if it goes off prematurely the heat inside the casing continues to rise potentially causing damage to the electronics - I presume that the T300RS will be similar even though it uses a smaller motor, which generates less heat).

Oh thanks alot, will keep it mind!
 
Confirmed.
Torque 4 and Sensitivity 10 is the way to go.
Only for very light cars (Fiat 500, Mini) one might go for Torque 5.
No messing with steering lock, it just works fine automatically.
 
Hello. New to forum. I just bought a wheel for the first time in my life, the thrustmaster t300rs gt edition. I have gran turismo sport and i play on ps5. Are there any specific wheel settings that should i change for the most realistic experience? And which gran turismo settings should i change to play a sim difficult game? Thanks
 
Hey man! :)

“First of all, I've found that T300RS is having 1080. which rotation degree is ok? or it depends on which car are you using.”

In GT the DoR changes automatically based on the car you’re using, I leave each car at stock DoR(Degrees of a Rotation).

“Secondly, does Controller Steering Sensitivity affects the steering?”

No, it’s only for DS4 users.

“Thirdly, what Force Feedback Max Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity are mostly welcome?”

I use my T300 on 4 Torque and 9 Sens, but everyones preference will vary. That’s a good place to start though. Also, make sure to have you’re wheel in “forced cooling” mode so it doesn’t overheat in long sessions, just turn it on and leave it on always.

Welcome to GTP, I hope that helps at least a bit. :gtpflag:

Hi there. I thought the more widely accepted opinion was sensitivity at 1? I seem to recall another thread on GTP discussing the fact? I've experimented and settled on 1 personally although I'm aware these settings are quite subjective. Is there any science behind the decision of setting to 10, or maybe you could help me find the other thread? I thought I recalled your name from there? Thank you :)
 
Hello. New to forum.

Welcome to :gtpflag:

Are there any specific wheel settings that should i change for the most realistic experience?

GT Sport hasn't got the strongest force feedback out there so a higher sensitivity (7-10) is needed for a lot of the smaller details but the torque is wheel limited to minimize any clipping. In case you don't know, clipping is where a signal is sent to the wheel to translate into feedback detail but if the wheel is already working hard, it can miss the detail altogether. Four torque is the upper limit on the T300 but I've found I have to drop the sensitivity a notch or two in road cars to help it keep up. I run 3 torque and between 7 and ten sensitivity based on the car most of the time.

And which gran turismo settings should i change to play a sim difficult game?

Turn it off and buy ACC instead.:D

Apart from the driving assists or track settings, the physics is the same for everyone so if you're new to driving games, make the most of the assists till you find your feet.

I thought the more widely accepted opinion was sensitivity at 1?

That's way too light for me as turning into any feedback can get swallowed by how easy it is to turn past it but the wheel is barely doing any work so it has an easier ride translating any FFB detail. I can understand why people use it for that reason but I need wheel weight for immersion.
 
Welcome to :gtpflag:

Turn it off and buy ACC instead.:D

Apart from the driving assists or track settings, the physics is the same for everyone so if you're new to driving games, make the most of the assists till you find your feet.

I play alot of racing games for years. I am 40 years old. But i play only with joysticks. So i have to put all assists to off for sim racing? And for ACC your comment is real? Is it better than gts?
 
So i have to put all assists to off for sim racing?

The physics is quite user friendly in GTS so I'd recommend turning everything but the ABS off but if you struggle getting used to your first wheel, they're there if you need them.

And for ACC your comment is real?

I haven't played it as I've only got the base PS4 to play on but it's top of the list after I finally find a PS5. From everything I've read and seen of ACC though, they've nailed the physics.
 
Hi there. I thought the more widely accepted opinion was sensitivity at 1? I seem to recall another thread on GTP discussing the fact? I've experimented and settled on 1 personally although I'm aware these settings are quite subjective. Is there any science behind the decision of setting to 10, or maybe you could help me find the other thread? I thought I recalled your name from there? Thank you :)


I believe you are correct about the FFB Sensitivity, 1 is most detail, 10 is least, but it’s been a while since I’ve played with that setting, so I’m not 100% sure I remember correctly. :)
 
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I play alot of racing games for years. I am 40 years old. But i play only with joysticks. So i have to put all assists to off for sim racing? And for ACC your comment is real? Is it better than gts?
Come on don"t you play GTS ??? So it isn"t hard to see what poor game it is ??? No ffb, no physics, 80km/h and 250 km/h looks the same. Terrible tyres, All cars feels the same. Terrible engines, sound.... brakes etc etc. In dark your lights don"t help.... Well one word.... crap !!!
 
Come on don"t you play GTS ??? So it isn"t hard to see what poor game it is ??? No ffb, no physics, 80km/h and 250 km/h looks the same. Terrible tyres, All cars feels the same. Terrible engines, sound.... brakes etc etc. In dark your lights don"t help.... Well one word.... crap !!!

So you suggest to buy acc?
 
So you suggest to buy acc?
If you play on PC or PS5 yes, on PS4 even pro.... no because fps drops. But if you want really good racing game get pcars 2... huge better than GTS
 
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I have ps5. I read that acc is not 4K but blurry 1080p at 60fps and is very choppy. Is it true?
I dont know but you may ask people in ACC forum how it looks like. All i can tell even great physics and ffb, is not eyes friendly on ps4 pro. But people who played on ps5 have stable 60 fps so i could reccomend this game to you !!!
 
@polakis All three of the above mentioned games have their own good and bad points, and honestly just get them all when there's a sale on. Everyone has different needs when it comes to sim titles so this is really the only way to find out for yourself what it is that you desire. I'd hate to think how many sim games I've got. :)

Incidentally, all three are on sale at the moment. ACC has 50% off, GT Sport PlayStation hits version (which is the same as Spec II but with more downloading needed) also has 50% off, and Project Cars 2 (standard edition) has 86% off. I'd also throw in Wreckfest (also on sale atm) if you just want some less serious fun racing.
 
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@polakis All three of the above mentioned games have their own good and bad points, and honestly just get them all when there's a sale on. Everyone has different needs when it comes to sim titles so this is really the only way to find out for yourself what it is that you desire. I'd hate to think how many sim games I've got. :)

Incidentally, all three are on sale at the moment. ACC has 50% off, GT Sport PlayStation hits version (which is the same as Spec II but with more downloading needed) also has 50% off, and Project Cars 2 (standard edition) has 86% off. I'd also throw in Wreckfest (also on sale atm) if you just want some less serious fun racing.
I already have gts and pc2. I will buy acc now and see...
 
AC is the best game on PS4 for physics and FFB. Plus it's old now so normally very cheap. And the settings are very simple, you can just plug in and go very quickly. Great range of cars and tracks, just a slightly clunky UI and a bit quiet online.

ACC is great, a lot of people complain the FFB is quite light, I don't mind, I think it's prob quite realistic for endurance racing, and I only run at 3 strength on GTS. The physics on ACC is better than anything else on console but the graphics are not great and it still has some bugs.

It's pretty telling for the quality of FFB on GTS that people can't agree if 1 or 10 is the highest sensitivity setting.
 
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If you play on PC or PS5 yes, on PS4 even pro.... no because fps drops. But if you want really good racing game get pcars 2... huge better than GTS

Sorry, but PCars 2 sucks, bad. Half the cars don’t even drive properly, and the ones that do need hours of tuning. GTS is plug and play, and it’s close enough to realistic. Plus, PC2 doesn’t have FIA races.
 
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Sorry, but PCars 2 sucks, bad. Half the cars don’t even drive properly, and the ones that do need hours of tuning. GTS is plug and play, and it’s close enough to realistic. Plus, PC2 doesn’t have FIA races.
OK everybody have own taste. PC2 is not perfect but.... GT Sport is everything but not realistic. Only thing i like there is livery editor. Don"t understand me wrong i"m playing GT series since 98 and i spent lot time on it. Just hope GT 7 will be real GT. Even i saw some videos and is not much promising.
 
What would you prefer in terms of realism?
Gran turismo sport assetto corsa competizione or project cars 3?
 
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What would you prefer in terms of realism?
Gran turismo sport assetto corsa competizione or project cars 3?
If you want pure realism, ACC is the most accurate sim available on console by miles. The physics and modelling is another level. But to allow this detail it's completely focused on real world GT3 and GT4 racing series.

IMO followed by AC, and then GTS.

I never got on with project cars, but PC3 is the least realistic of those games.
 
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What would you prefer in terms of realism?
Gran turismo sport assetto corsa competizione or project cars 3?
Sad but all of this games are far behind than predecessor. But in fact of realism ACC is great simulation. GTS is photogfaphic game. Looks good but driving expierience is below 0. Weird tracks, smooth surfaces, no ffb respond. Because i have pcars 1i2 i still didn"t buy Pcars 3 because user reviews. Ans is still to expensive because there is only 10% new content.But Pcars3 should have the best track list. And good physics. And thats most important to sim.
 
Pcars 3 has no tyre wear or fuel usage. Maybe the physics are good, I don't know. Depends what you want from your realism.
 
That's way too light for me as turning into any feedback can get swallowed by how easy it is to turn past it but the wheel is barely doing any work so it has an easier ride translating any FFB detail. I can understand why people use it for that reason but I need wheel weight for immersion.

Hi. I tried sensitivity on 10 again last night and I lost all feedback sensation completely! I noticed a centre 'spring like' weight while the wheel was turned and it completely masked the feedback sensation. Personally I set my torque a bit higher if I want a weightier steering. Glad I tried 10 again though as I'm convinced 1 is the right setting for me. I guess my advice to OP would be to try both extremes and see how it feels. Do a few laps with both settings in same car and track to guage. :cheers:

I believe you are correct about the FFB Sensitivity, 1 is most detail, 10 is least, but it’s been a while since I’ve played with that setting, so I’m not 100% sure I remember correctly. :)

Thanks for getting back but yeah as above I settled on 1. I'm driving with t300 also for reference to OP.

If you play on PC or PS5 yes, on PS4 even pro.... no because fps drops. But if you want really good racing game get pcars 2... huge better than GTS

I have played PC2 and ACC and there is one massive factor you haven't mentioned; people actually racing! :P My guess is majority of people on GTP are playstation users and GT Sport cannot be beat for online racing, period. I admit that ACC is the better physics and PCars in a few cases too, but if what you like to do is race competitive races against real people there's no chance on either. (specifically on PS4/5). I guess we're all hoping GT7 can bridge the gap a little bit more but it probably has to stay more accessible to cater to it's huge audience.

If you want to be a SIM racer then yes you should invest in a PC, otherwise you won't even get close to real world physics. But please for the love of God, at least drive in cockpit view! Otherwise you're not a SIM racer at all :D
 
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