T300RS vs Logitech G Pro Wheel?

  • Thread starter hawkeyez
  • 41 comments
  • 10,729 views
sensible solution

I bought Logitech GT Force™ Pro for GT4,
Upgrading from GT5 to T500RS until now,
Added PSVR for GTS (for the first time using VR devices),
I bought a T300 because the T500 was damaged, and finally went back to the T500.
Recently tried DD pro briefly on GT7,

DD is really great, the feeling of upgrading is bigger than GTFP to T500RS, but, it is only a quality improvement after all.

Turning into VR... It belongs to a leap forward of different dimensions, the change of game immersion/introduction is like changing from PAD to wheel, from plane to 3D space.

I have not been able to own PS5+PSV2, and I am waiting for PS5 to support T500, which is my key to enter PSVR2.
This will never happen.
 
If you want to play GT7 in VR, do whatever you can and sell whatever you can in order to get your hands on a G-Pro. There is NOTHING on the market like it. TrueForce TFA really is a game changer, you'll experience total immersion in VR like nothing before.
 
I'm not sure about the T300... Just got one and it's getting kinda of loose mid race, pretty annoying and distracting, like this:
 
I'm not sure about the T300... Just got one and it's getting kinda of loose mid race, pretty annoying and distracting, like this:

My brothers wheel blew apart when it was auto calibrating. It kept trying to turn right and it ended up splitting the outer casing for the worm gear. A quick removal of the top cover we were able to see the problem. I took it all apart and epoxied it all back together, it was working until it went haywire again on auto calibrate. One of the reasons I skipped on the T300, the support was meh.
 
I'm not sure about the T300... Just got one and it's getting kinda of loose mid race, pretty annoying and distracting, like this:

There is a tiny screw in that rotating collar. Tighten the collar all the way then tighten the screw all the way. And not until you feel a little bit of resistance. I mean all the way until it is flush with the collar. It is designed to poke through the plastic in your wheel and lock the collar in to place.
 
There is a tiny screw in that rotating collar. Tighten the collar all the way then tighten the screw all the way. And not until you feel a little bit of resistance. I mean all the way until it is flush with the collar. It is designed to poke through the plastic in your wheel and lock the collar in to place.
Really!? The manual says to stop screwing when resistance is found... But you are not the first who told me to do it all the way...

Will try and come back with results. Thanks!
 
Really!? The manual says to stop screwing when resistance is found... But you are not the first who told me to do it all the way...

Will try and come back with results. Thanks!
I tried the "feeling resistance" method and had the same results as you. 3 or 4 days later the wheel was ready to fall off. Since screwing it in all the way, the wheel has been rock solid.
 
You have the FFB set too high and causing clipping. Should never exceed 3 in GT7
I'm using 2 FFB and 7 sensitivity.

But I think it's fixed after taking it all out and reassembling very carefully. AND twisting the screw all the way like @Tommy_D suggested.

Will test a little further but after 1h straight the wheel hasn't come loose again.
 
7 for the product plus 31 for shipping lol

But will keep it in radar and try to find one in my country. Looks like that with the quick release the collar gets tighter and the screw is not even need, right?

Thanks for the tip!
Yeah, no screw required.
 
Back