The Drag Tuning Bible -- v4.1 - September 2012

  • Thread starter dr_slump
  • 247 comments
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viperbeatsvette
It's so disappointing that people just want tunes and do not read masterpieces like this and learn the background information and what-not.

Just re-reading over this has really made me appreciate the effort you've put into this.

Respect đź‘Ť
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It's far away from being perfect ;)

:lol:
 
Thanks man, I knew trends before after practice in tuning many times but had no idea why those trends occured and why it was better / worse...

This explains it all

Cheers!
 
UPDATE TO V4


As you can see, I updated the whole drag bible. I want to show you what exactly I changed and how important each changes are.

Crucial changes (reread)
  • Suspension
    Many corrections and updates. Rewrote big parts of it. Also added a bunch of tips for "Aero tunes".​
  • Aerodynamics
    Especially for the 3k guys (and other long distances), but also many general fixes.​
  • Weight Transfer
    Relatively big change, added some stuff. Mainly for the 1/4, 1k, 1mile guys.​

Minor Changes
  • Transmission
    Replaced the additional info for 1/4mile tuners and also added a little to it.​
  • Differential
    Better description; a few fixes​
  • Distances
    Rewrote some parts for better understanding.​

NEW STUFF
  • Cheats & Tricks
    Added informations about the most common tricks and cheats in GT5 drag racing.​

Layout
  • Other text colours
  • New font
Please let me know if you like the new design or not.


This is pretty much it.
I know, I haven't posted the Analysis, Powerband & Shiftpoint part yet, but it's still in my mind. If I forgot anything else, tell me what.

Thanks! :)



NOTES TO UPDATE V4.1


I finally added the missing 1/4mile part in the spring rates chapter of the suspension part:

It's worth mentioning that the spring rates of RWD cars differ way more than of cars with other drive train layouts. As you might already expect after reading the previous part, opposite spring rates could be quite handy for 1/4mile tuning.
With some cars, but definitely not all, soft/stiff is indeed the best for a good launch, although you'll often lose a bit at the end. But this effect isn't as crucial for 1/4mile as it is for longer distances.

Rear - using opposite spring rates
The logic behind a stiff rear spring rate is possibly the positive effect on the ride height. It'll keep your rear high, which is a good thing for maximising traction.

Front - using opposite spring rates
Now this seems to be confusing at first, cause the front will raise more than with stiff springs. But you must consider that there's also a positive effect as result of it - weight transfer. Now, it may be a good idea too quickly hop to the weight transfer part of this guide.

Weight transfer would be actually a good thing if it just wouldn't hurt ride height, because, as I mentioned in the weight transfer chapter, in GT5 ride height is the most important thing suspension-wise. But if you're going to use superstiff rear springs anyway, this could limit the height change well enough so that the positive weight tranfer effect outweighs the negative effect of it.
Beside of this as a nice side effect it even lowers the car's ability to bog and let's you therefore set a better gear ratio.

Be also aware that due to the soft springs the damper setting could gain importancy, but simply read the damper part of this guide for this.
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Last edited:
Slashfan
Great update! Looking forward to seeing the rest.
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Thanks!

The maingoal was clearly to correct all kinds of misleading/false information. I hope I didn't miss anything.
This update was really needed.

:)
 
=P If I think of anything else I'll let you know but it's looking top notch.
 
dr_slump

*********************************************************************************************************************************************
*********************************************************************************************************************************************
********************************************************************************************************************************************* (EDIT: ups! the text got somehow lost.... I'll add it as soon as I found it on my computer.)
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O_o

Ehh, I'm confused! I definitely wrote this part..... but probably forgot to insert it. :lol: And know I can't find it on my computer (bad idea to have hundreds of text documents with random names in the same folder :indiff: ).

Puh...... annoying.
 
I can't really seem the hang of cars that launch in the 2nd gear. How do you see if it need to launch in the 2nd or 1st. And if that isn't really possible. Then what is the limit between cars that start in 1st and 2nd.
thanks in advance.
 
QuarterRutger
I can't really seem the hang of cars that launch in the 2nd gear. How do you see if it need to launch in the 2nd or 1st. And if that isn't really possible. Then what is the limit between cars that start in 1st and 2nd.
thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Most times:
2nd gear launch if you can't set the gears short enough. This is the case if you can't fully use the last gear (often 6th), even with the closest possible gear setting (for 1st gear launch), without hurting 1st.

If you're not sure if a certain car requires 2nd gear launch, just ask.
 
dr_slump
Most times:
2nd gear launch if you can't set the gears short enough. This is the case if you can't fully use the last gear (often 6th), even with the closest possible gear setting (for 1st gear launch), without hurting 1st.

If you're not sure if a certain car requires 2nd gear launch, just ask.
Click to expand...

Ah thanks. So if i pass the 400m/quarter mile and didn't reach the last gear i'll do a 2nd gear launch thanks.
 
I don't mean to sound like a noob by asking this but, what is it meant by making a gear longer or shorter? How would that be applied to the transmission?
 
SebiRO1293
I don't mean to sound like a noob by asking this but, what is it meant by making a gear longer or shorter? How would that be applied to the transmission?
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Longer is moving the slider for that gear to the left, thus increasing the top speed the gear is capable of, shortening the gear is moving the slider to the right thereby decreasing the speed the gear your adjusting is capable of.
 
Mikeybc
Longer is moving the slider for that gear to the left, thus increasing the top speed the gear is capable of, shortening the gear is moving the slider to the right thereby decreasing the speed the gear your adjusting is capable of.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mickeybc, that's exactly what I wanted to know. Much appreciated.
 
Dr. Slump. You need to bring those unfinished updates to date if you know what I mean. As you know I have been banging on about this.

As ever I cant say thank you enough for the awesome your you have done.

Simply cant wait for an update! I'll print off a booklet of this as soon as its released!
 
NOTES TO UPDATE V4.1


I finally added the missing 1/4mile text in the spring rates chapter of the suspension part:

It's worth mentioning that the spring rates of RWD cars differ way more than of cars with other drive train layouts. As you might already expect after reading the previous part, opposite spring rates could be quite handy for 1/4mile tuning.
With some cars, but definitely not all, soft/stiff is indeed the best for a good launch, although you'll often lose a bit at the end. But this effect isn't as crucial for 1/4mile as it is for longer distances.

Rear - using opposite spring rates
The logic behind a stiff rear spring rate is possibly the positive effect on the ride height. It'll keep your rear high, which is a good thing for maximising traction.

Front - using opposite spring rates
Now this seems to be confusing at first, cause the front will raise more than with stiff springs. But you must consider that there's also a positive effect as result of it - weight transfer. Now, it may be a good idea too quickly hop to the weight transfer part of this guide.

Weight transfer would be actually a good thing if it just wouldn't hurt ride height, because, as I mentioned in the weight transfer chapter, in GT5 ride height is the most important thing suspension-wise. But if you're going to use superstiff rear springs anyway, this could limit the height change well enough so that the positive weight tranfer effect outweighs the negative effect of it.
Beside of this as a nice side effect it even lowers the car's ability to bog and let's you therefore set a better gear ratio.

Be also aware that due to the soft springs the damper setting could gain importancy, but simply read the damper part of this guide for this.
Click to expand...


EDIT: I should probably add that this occurs in 3k tuning too, just not that often...
 
dr_slump
notes to update v4.1


i finally added the missing 1/4mile text in the spring rates chapter of the suspension part:




edit: I should probably add that this occurs in 3k tuning too, just not that often...
Click to expand...

yesssssssss! đź‘Ť:dunce::sly::):drool::dopey::D:lol::eek::mischievous::cheers::bowdown::cool::gtpflag:
 
When I click update history on the first page it brings me to a new page that just tells me I don't have permission.
 

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