The PS4 FFB thread

  • Thread starter mattikake
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XXI
Heavier wheel is better for me. I race mainly LMP, GT3 a light wheel leaves the cars feeling to loose for me at those speeds, hence my volume is at 80.
You on a T300? You must have muscles the size of Arnies. Dont you feel there is no proper force feedback from the road at that level and it only turns extremely heavy when turning?
 
You on a T300? You must have muscles the size of Arnies. Dont you feel there is no proper force feedback from the road at that level and it only turns extremely heavy when turning?

T150.
Motor is half what the 300 puts out.
 
Well I'm using a T500 and due to it's strong motor I run low Gain and low volume. I've spent hours testing and this is what suits my wheel and my driving. It's up to each user to have what ever they feel comfortable for the wheel that they own and their driving style.

I have also mapped volume to L3 and R3 and tweak it by the 5 increments each touch of the buttons changes it by.

So since the 2.0 update I use.......

Flavour: Immersive
Gain: 25
Volume: 25
Tone: 60
FX: 33
Menu Spring: 0.25

If any T300 users want to try my settings just use them with a higher Gain (say 40 ) then play around with volume.
 
What do people make of this post on the official forum?

"'Immersive' and 'Informative' both scale automatically to prevent clipping, while 'Raw' does not. Some notes below from development:

Informative
Focus on optimizing the amount of useful-for-racing information the driver gets through the wheel.

best use of dynamic range to continually inform driver
no saturation
leverage non-linear filtering
tone sweeps Fy to Mz dominant


Immersive
Focus on immersion and the experience.

feel speed
tighter around center
canned effect ok to default on
tone sweeps SoP vs Rack


Raw
Straight rack FFB without any filtering

canned effects default off
no auto scale
no non-linear filtering"

So the function of Tone depends on the Flavour? This is all news to me! Why doesn't the help alongside it detail this?

I want a SoP feel, so have switched to Immersive, but I can't say I'm getting the swing between SoP v Rack on the Tone scale.

The FX is massive as well. The more undulating tracks like Knockhill are a real fight, but I have FX currently set to 1! Even smooth tracks like Silverstone have the wheel sometimes trying to wrench itself out of my hands. FX can't be working or is not the control that feeds back surface detail. Or I'm simply interpreting it wrong.
 
Since this patch I have had nothing but problems dialling in settings for g29, does anyone have a good base setup?

My main problem is the notchy feel in the wheel, any ideas?
 
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What do you suggest if wheel is too heavy to turn? Decrease gain? Have you found a good balance of gain and volume settings?
I'm so happy to have button mapping now. I've mapped volume and tone to my button box. While there's nothing reporting on screen what you're changing the values to, they are definitely changing. It's really a game changer for dialing in the feel of FFB. We've never been able to adjust FFB in real time while driving on track. And it's not like you keep messing with it either. Make a quick adjustment on lap one, and maybe another once tires heat up, and forget about it. If you don't have a button box, I highly recommend one, or even a cheap USB keyboard - I've seen them as low as $9.99 here in the states. Volume really seems to reduce the heavy turning resistance, while gain seems te effect the road feeling, and a little bit of the turning resistance. I run gain as high as possible until it seems some effects are getting lost, or are canceling eachother out.

Since this patch I have had nothing but problems dialling in settings for g29, does anyone have a good base setup?

My main problem is the notchy feel in the wheel, any ideas?
While I'm currently running a T300, I used to have a G27. How severe is the notchy feel? I used to experience this on long sweeping corners at high FFB torque settings. That's why I switched to a belt driven vs. gear driven wheel. Don't know if it's a setting issue or function of the wheel. Hopefully somebody can be more helpful than me.
 
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I'm so happy to have button mapping now. I've mapped volume and tone to my button box. While there's nothing reporting on screen what you're changing the values to, they are definitely changing. It's really a game changer for dialing in the feel of FFB. We've never been able to adjust FFB in real time while driving on track. And it's not like you keep messing with it either. Make a quick adjustment on lap one, and maybe another once tires heat up, and forget about it. If you don't have a button box, I highly recommend one, or even a cheap USB keyboard - I've seen them as low as $9.99 here in the states. Volume really seems to reduce the heavy turning resistance, while gain seems te effect the road feeling, and a little bit of the turning resistance. I run gain as high as possible until it seems some effects are getting lost, or are canceling eachother out.

While I'm currently running a T300, I used to have a G27. How severe is the notchy feel? I used to experience this on long sweeping corners at high FFB torque settings. That's why I switched to a belt driven vs. gear driven wheel. Don't know if it's a setting issue or function of the wheel. Hopefully somebody can be more helpful than me.

I'm so happy to have button mapping now. I've mapped volume and tone to my button box. While there's nothing reporting on screen what you're changing the values to, they are definitely changing. It's really a game changer for dialing in the feel of FFB. We've never been able to adjust FFB in real time while driving on track. And it's not like you keep messing with it either. Make a quick adjustment on lap one, and maybe another once tires heat up, and forget about it. If you don't have a button box, I highly recommend one, or even a cheap USB keyboard - I've seen them as low as $9.99 here in the states. Volume really seems to reduce the heavy turning resistance, while gain seems te effect the road feeling, and a little bit of the turning resistance. I run gain as high as possible until it seems some effects are getting lost, or are canceling eachother out.

While I'm currently running a T300, I used to have a G27. How severe is the notchy feel? I used to experience this on long sweeping corners at high FFB torque settings. That's why I switched to a belt driven vs. gear driven wheel. Don't know if it's a setting issue or function of the wheel. Hopefully somebody can be more helpful than me.
It’s pretty bad, before the patch it didn’t take long to find settings I liked, but now it just feels terrible.

It was perfect on GT sport demo as well. Just struggling to get it right on this.
 
Since this patch I have had nothing but problems dialling in settings for g29, does anyone have a good base setup?

My main problem is the notchy feel in the wheel, any ideas?

I'm on the G29 but it seems I'm not that sensitive to FFB as some of you guys!
I mean I do feel some certain rumbles and stuff in the wheel but I feel that's normal, maybe...
I run Informative/gain90/volume50/tone90/Fx10
I might get Fx a bit higher or Tone a bit lower just to increase the road feel!

I feel Assetto FFB is miles better without any fiddling needed. Run 90/0/0/0 in Assetto and enjoy it anytime anywhere!
 
I'm on the G29 but it seems I'm not that sensitive to FFB as some of you guys!
I mean I do feel some certain rumbles and stuff in the wheel but I feel that's normal, maybe...
I run Informative/gain90/volume50/tone90/Fx10
I might get Fx a bit higher or Tone a bit lower just to increase the road feel!

I feel Assetto FFB is miles better without any fiddling needed. Run 90/0/0/0 in Assetto and enjoy it anytime anywhere!

That's not far from my G29 settings. How do you find the surface feedback on undulating tracks? E.g. take a GT3 car that ffb works for (I find the nsx is good) to brands gp or knockhill. Does the wheel twist hard with the surface round there? I'm on informative,85,75,85,10.
 
I was running volume at 75 but kept decreasing it because it kept being hard on some cars! I hate fiddling FFB for each car so I want a universal setting!
To be honest the surface feedback is a bit on the low side, but I like that! If you want to increase it, either increase Fx or reduce Tone!
I like tone to be high to feel the car so I rather increase Fx!

I'm gonna try the combination that you proposed!
 
FFB is subjective, so this is difficult so describe in a forum. But I've now experienced a couple of extremes in PCars 2, so I think I can speak intelligently about this. If you've driven Assetto Corsa, and you were happy with the feel of you wheel, you shouldn't expect much difference in PCars 2. If your getting a very limp, loose, wet noodle like feeling from your wheel... it's not right. This is not what SMS wants you to feel. Please note what car, on what track, what wheel, what platform, etc. and report it to SMS. I had so many cars not working right until the patch, and now they feel SO MUCH BETTER than before. So I'm confident that the "limp noodle" feeling is not intended, and will get corrected if SMS is properly notified.
 
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T500 here.
I´m using this:
RAW
Gain 100
Volume 70- 95
tone 10-15
Spring 0

I like to feel a tight center and the wheight on the front and is exactly what i feel with this.
I´m allways messing arround with volume and tone when on track depending on the car, setup, load, etc
 
T300 and I went back to RAW 100 - 20 - 50 - 50 after patch 2.0 .. this is the only one that feels excellent with all cars so far and that make the Kart controllable. I havent had time to play last week much though so I want to see if I find something good with the immersive setting as well.
 
More testing. This time the 650s GT3 at Imola. Plenty of stops and traction zones.

G29 & PS4
On Informative and Immersive I have tried adjusting Gain, Volume, Tone and FX to try and get a feel for fronts locking and rears losing traction. The wheel was moderately heavy if I had the Volume above 50. No setting would give any feel for the fronts whatsoever and if there was a feel for the rears it was so minor it was almost undetectable. FX also seems to remain totally dominant on any setting if the Gain was above 75, regardless of what FX was set to. In all cases there was horrible clipping over kerbs and rumble strips. Yet the FFB graph was saying no clipping was occurring.

However, I then moved to RAW.
Once I had the Gain, Volume and Tone above 90 I CAN ACTUALLY FEEL THE WHEEL GO LIGHT ON FRONT LOCKUPS! YAY! Even though the wheel is quite heavy (it's heaviest) if I hold the wheel gently I can also get a snap oversteer feel on traction. Yay! Yet there was a permanent full red bar on the right most graph for the FFB but I was getting NO clipping. I did notice though that FX didn't seem to do anything on any setting, but I can happily live without that.

I can only conclude that these graphs are not reporting what is really happening with the wheel.

So now I'm sticking with RAW,100,100,100,10, despite everything I can read suggests this would be a very bad choice for my wheel.

Now to try other cars and tracks and hope that it translates to them. Some long constant radius corners to test SoP feel and Brands or Knockhill to test undulation and bump driveability...
 
@IanBell please have a look at this and the previous post.

Holy mother of god!

I just tried these exact same FFB settings in the same car at Knockhill. It created such extreme FFB it felt like it was destroying my wheel! It was so bad a dare not keep it on RAW for 1 more second so changed it back to Informative, but it was still clipping nearly as bad.

FFB settings are circuit dependent and need to be saveable like car setups. Only problem is, despite having to start again on setup, I'm not sure it will even work at all at Knockhill. :(

Check the vid, you can clearly hear it.



So is the FFB bugged? Are the circuits bugged? More testing required...
 
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@IanBell please have a look at this and the previous post.

Holy mother of god!

I just tried these exact same FFB settings in the same car at Knockhill. It created such extreme FFB it felt like it was destroying my wheel! It was so bad a dare not keep it on RAW for 1 more second so changed it back to Informative, but it was still clipping nearly as bad.

FFB settings are circuit dependent and need to be saveable like car setups. Only problem is, despite having to start again on setup, I'm not sure it will even work at all at Knockhill. :(

Check the vid, you can clearly hear it.



So is the FFB bugged? Are the circuits bugged? More testing required...


Knockhill & Oulton have very good FFB, Similarly like the first game where Oulton destroyed everyother track in the game giving you so much feel through the wheel. Are SMS based near Oulton so they can give it more time than anyother track? If you race on Oulton and then say Laguna Seca it's like chalk and cheese.
 
It shouldn't make you wheel malfunction like that though!

But... I tried Fuji another smooth track and it was fine. Went back to Knockhill with my thumb hovering over the options button and it was fine. So this is another bug. Also with those high RAW settings and low FX I seem to be getting almost no feedback from the surface undulations like I used to on Immersive.
 
T300 and I went back to RAW 100 - 20 - 50 - 50 after patch 2.0 .. this is the only one that feels excellent with all cars so far and that make the Kart controllable. I havent had time to play last week much though so I want to see if I find something good with the immersive setting as well.
Thought id try new settings and gave these a go. I found they made the wheel feel like jelly in the middld with a huge dead zone. Also at Knockhill there was not much ffb compared to immersive.

What setting is it that reduces the deadzone in the middle of the wheel?

Edit: ffb id say is just completely broken imo, formula rookie at Sugo zero feeling wheel feels completely numb espcially in the centre...next race though was at Sakitto and it was like playing a different game the steering felt great. Now i know diff tracks should feel different but this is just way to much why would a different track make the wheel feel like it has no deadzone or lifeless. I urge anyone to try this out.
 
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I think I'm going nuts with the Ffb stuff... I plugged my th8a in USB mode to try out gts with a shifter and it feels like the Ffb in pc2 is now different slightly lighter and more refined. When the shifter is plugged on the base the t300 feels more powerful and not fine tuned like that. Is this possible??
 
Is it bad that I enjoy the game at default Raw and just go down to 90 gain if I'm cilpping?

This is exactly where I'm going to be from now on I think. The knockhill issue was a bug because I've been back since and it's been ok. Seems like the old FFB bug in PC1 and been copied across.

With RAW I get no surface detail feedback with FX no matter what I set it to. RAW is the reverse of Informative and Immersive on my system. On Informative or Immersive I get no tyre slip feel or SoP, but loads of FX. On RAW I get no FX but loads *more tyre slip and SoP. In both cases the values I set to Gain, Volume, Tone, FX seem to make little difference. On Informative and Immersive the FX feel at Knockhill, Brands, Oulton was extreme with me really having to wrestle the wheel over the undulations which was a fun challenge in itself kind of like driving a 4x4 offroad, but wholly useless for trying to go fast.

RAW is working out to be playable for me on the GT3 and TC cars I've tried. I'm expecting open wheelers to be completely different though.

* but not as much as a 30,80,30,70 setting on PC1.
 
@mattikake check (read) this sheet and pick best car ffb on best track ffb.

There's also T300 car specific ffb setups on it.
 

Attachments

  • Project CARS 2 - All Cars and Tracks FFB Configuration & Score.xlsx
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This is exactly where I'm going to be from now on I think. The knockhill issue was a bug because I've been back since and it's been ok. Seems like the old FFB bug in PC1 and been copied across.

With RAW I get no surface detail feedback with FX no matter what I set it to. RAW is the reverse of Informative and Immersive on my system. On Informative or Immersive I get no tyre slip feel or SoP, but loads of FX. On RAW I get no FX but loads *more tyre slip and SoP. In both cases the values I set to Gain, Volume, Tone, FX seem to make little difference. On Informative and Immersive the FX feel at Knockhill, Brands, Oulton was extreme with me really having to wrestle the wheel over the undulations which was a fun challenge in itself kind of like driving a 4x4 offroad, but wholly useless for trying to go fast.

RAW is working out to be playable for me on the GT3 and TC cars I've tried. I'm expecting open wheelers to be completely different though.

* but not as much as a 30,80,30,70 setting on PC1.

See i love the feeling of the road as well as tyre slip etc i think thats why PCARS2 FFB feels awful compared to AC it's either one or the other. Then you have massive differences on tracks where even when on two stretches of road woithout that much bumps feels massively different in the same car. Positive it's broke on PS4 right now but no doubt feels great on PC like the first game.
 
LOOki
See i love the feeling of the road as well as tyre slip etc i think thats why PCARS2 FFB feels awful compared to AC it's either one or the other. Then you have massive differences on tracks where even when on two stretches of road woithout that much bumps feels massively different in the same car. Positive it's broke on PS4 right now but no doubt feels great on PC like the first game.

OK, so I'm back to this thread after a week and change, and the 2.0 patch. Haven't touched the game. So you all are still struggling with FF issues on PS4? Wow. I'm sorry guys, this game is a debacle. I was hoping the patch would at least solve the FF inconsistencies. Doesn't seem to be the case. It should not be this difficult to have a fun racing experience.
 
See i love the feeling of the road as well as tyre slip etc i think thats why PCARS2 FFB feels awful compared to AC it's either one or the other. Then you have massive differences on tracks where even when on two stretches of road woithout that much bumps feels massively different in the same car. Positive it's broke on PS4 right now but no doubt feels great on PC like the first game.

^^^ This exactly. My first feeling when I heard FFB was being simplified was worry. Having to choose between slip and road feel makes no sense. Yet this is what we have because some people yelled so loud about the FFB being 'complicated'. Now we have a dumbed down system that is illogical.

You should be able to set volume, gain, slip, road all independently of each other to get the FFB you want. In PCars1, I had a brilliant setup where I had great road feel and great slip. I could feel precisely when the front locked up and regained grip. This was achieved by low gain, high slip, high road. This is not possible in PCars2, you have to choose between road or slip. Of course you can go 50/50 but really I want to go 70/100 for both with lower gain to prevent clipping.
 
^^^ This exactly. My first feeling when I heard FFB was being simplified was worry. Having to choose between slip and road feel makes no sense. Yet this is what we have because some people yelled so loud about the FFB being 'complicated'. Now we have a dumbed down system that is illogical.

You should be able to set volume, gain, slip, road all independently of each other to get the FFB you want. In PCars1, I had a brilliant setup where I had great road feel and great slip. I could feel precisely when the front locked up and regained grip. This was achieved by low gain, high slip, high road. This is not possible in PCars2, you have to choose between road or slip. Of course you can go 50/50 but really I want to go 70/100 for both with lower gain to prevent clipping.

The "simplified" method of FFB in PC2 is bizarre. I think some devs live in a very odd world.

If it was simplified you would have some sliders that simply ask;
-how much tyre slip to you want to feel?
-how much SoP do you want to feel?
-how heavy do you want the wheel?
-how heavy to you want the canned effects to be?

^ THAT is simple.
 
The ability to use Jack Spade's custom FFB files for global settings, and Oscarolim settings for each car, made PCars 1 an absolute joy. It was a bit of work, but eventually all cars had the settings saved. I'd gladly go back to that system if we could. Some cars just don't feel right no matter how much we adjust, and I think more adjustment settings would help. It's unfortunate that the game was dumbed down to accommodate the loudest whiners that weren't willing to learn. Maybe we can get a couple more adjustment parameters added in the future, like SOP and understeer slip for example. For all the complaints, PCars 1 gave amazing adjustment ability that I miss now. Still love PCars 2, but in a perfect world...
 
The ability to use Jack Spade's custom FFB files for global settings, and Oscarolim settings for each car, made PCars 1 an absolute joy. It was a bit of work, but eventually all cars had the settings saved. I'd gladly go back to that system if we could. Some cars just don't feel right no matter how much we adjust, and I think more adjustment settings would help. It's unfortunate that the game was dumbed down to accommodate the loudest whiners that weren't willing to learn. Maybe we can get a couple more adjustment parameters added in the future, like SOP and understeer slip for example. For all the complaints, PCars 1 gave amazing adjustment ability that I miss now. Still love PCars 2, but in a perfect world...
Under slip would be the best addition possible.
 
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