The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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Anyone modded T500 RS steering centre stripe to a different colour or know aftermarket parts that you can buy and fit GT wheel?

I'm looking for a yellow colour one.

Thanks in advance.
 
The Pedal Deadzone/Quiet Mod:

I was watching the review of Niels pedals the other day and was inspired by the way the pedals were designed to have a cushion on the way back. So they were quiet. Decided to take a peak at my T500 pedals (since there's some clunk with them).

To my surprise, controlling the pedals with my fingers while in the control panel, I could clearly see they did have 1/4 inch of deadzone. I know this is a common complaint, but using my shoes, I could never detect it in-game. Anyways, I had some round felt pads lying around. So I did this to my pedals:

vD5nKkc.jpg


Not only did that take out a lot of the dead zone, but unless you're really smash driving, it also makes them whisper quiet. Cheap and easy.

Since I was playing with these anyways, I decided to try putting some between the medal on the paddle shifters and where they smash into the plastic. *CLUNK* CLUNK* *CLUNK* You know what I'm talking about.

oUevzYw.jpg


On the backside, I put one on the top and bottom. And then on the frontside, I put another one in the middle section.

I think it cut the noise by at least half. If you're being smooth, all you really hear now is the spring and switch. It also shortened the travel up by a little.

It's not going to eliminate the noise completely, but I was playing with headphones and if I'm using a car with a throatty engine, I can't even hear the shifts. Which is great. No more *CLUNK* *CLUNK* *CLUNK*

The clunk was always what I disliked about these fixed shifters. Between the large travel distance and the clunk, I felt they drew you out of the immersion a bit. Now they seem to feel like the shifters that are on the GTE wheel. MUCH better.

I haven't been using them very long. And it's possible they could compress over time and lose effectiveness, but this is a winner of a mod.

These are the type of things I'm using. Not sure what size they were:

http://www.lowes.com/Search=round felt pads?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=round felt pads#!

EDIT: See post 9050
 
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Looks less expensive than the Basherboards brake mod, and even that is extremely inexpensive.

Although, I have never noticed a deadzone in my gas pedal.
 
I think you just misunderstood, I meant that it was cheaper to do that than what was spent on the Basherboards thingy. I never was implying they did the same thing.
 
I honestly never noticed the deadzone either and thought mine didn't have it. Next time you're racing, though, go into the control panel and test with your hand. I think it's a lot easier to notice that way.
 
Nice mod. I haven´t reacted to such a deadzone but then I am not to afraid of that particularly not on the brake. It allows you to put some prepressure and rest on the pedal. As long as it reacts when I put my feet down quickly I have no issue with that.

That said now running absolutely hyper sensitive HE Sim Ultimate pedals. This you really want to add deadzone because blowing on them registers I wonder how that would change my perception going back. But there is just no way back as good as the T500RS are with the skateboard bushings. And they are truly good :)
 
/\

Envy.

The pads aren't big enough to eliminate all dead zone. So I can still rest my feet on the pedals without it registering. Maybe cuts it by 70 percent.
 
I know this helps with clunking noise,but the seem pretty quiet compared to my old G27 pedals. Has anyone tried to just respline the pedal with the potentiometer to see if that removes the dead zone? It may be too much and cause it to be slightly depressed.
 
Anyone here who have a solution of what to do when the DSD adapter don´t align in the correct position becuse you have a newer SKU of the T500?
 
I can use my DSD adapters on t500rs v5 & my tx. It can be that there was a mistake? I got one faulty adapter which had to be tightened on the grooves.
 
Simmpa
Anyone here who have a solution of what to do when the DSD adapter don´t align in the correct position becuse you have a newer SKU of the T500?
Click to expand...

My solution at the moment is hoping the grip never tightens to the point of needing the screw. My old V2 needed that screw, but so far, the latest revision is good even without it.
 
Paul33993
My solution at the moment is hoping the grip never tightens to the point of needing the screw. My old V2 needed that screw, but so far, the latest revision is good even without it.
Click to expand...

Problem solved! :cheers:

I had apparantly not screwed the DSD adapter far in enough, don´t know why but before I couldn´t. Now it is in exact position as it should be like the star of david.
 
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RE: Post 9037

Okay, so it turns out the pedals automatically establish a dead-zone whenever you re-calibrate the pedals. You press the pedals fully and then when it snaps back, that's your established range. And it seems Thrustmaster automatically adds 1/4 inch to that for your "safety" dead-zone.

The above mods I did are really good for quieting the pedals, but won't address the deadzone (beyond the first time you plug your wheel in, calibrate, and THEN apply the pads). The next time it's replugged back into the computer it'll just re-establish a different dead-zone.

I think I might try coming up with some kind of clip-on. I can calibrate to the fuller range, then apply the clip to get it back out.
 
Paul33993
RE: Post 9037

Okay, so it turns out the pedals automatically establish a dead-zone whenever you re-calibrate the pedals. You press the pedals fully and then when it snaps back, that's your established range. And it seems Thrustmaster automatically adds 1/4 inch to that for your "safety" dead-zone.

The above mods I did are really good for quieting the pedals, but won't address the deadzone (beyond the first time you plug your wheel in, calibrate, and THEN apply the pads). The next time it's replugged back into the computer it'll just re-establish a different dead-zone.

I think I might try coming up with some kind of clip-on. I can calibrate to the fuller range, then apply the clip to get it back out.
Click to expand...

Paul,

This is exactly right. In fact the TX does this as well. Also, they add a deadzone at the end of travel as well! I shouldn't say that because now anyone that reads this and has been happily using their pedals without noticing will be looking for it. haha :) Not only that but they have something in the software that makes them sort of "stick" in the deadzone. It's hard to explain. I will say the brake seems to have smaller deadzones than the other pedals.

The only reason I can come up with for the deadzones is to prevent issues that may crop up as the pots age. Given that the wheel is constantly auto-calibrating the min and max points. If the pots are dirty and jittery, you end up with false min and max points. This creates a situation in which you can't get to 0% or 100%.

I overcame this with my CPX adapter via software, but that thing has complete control of it's outputs. For the T500RS pedals, you could do the following to reduce that deadzone:

Calibrate the pedals after turning on the wheel.
Then place your little pads behind the pedals.

What you've then done is calibrated the minimum position which won't ever increase, only go further towards true zero. (potentially) Then, you've moved the pedal's at rest point closer to the edge of the deadzone.

Kind of a pain but I'm not sure what else you can do without using something between the pedals and the wheel to fool it.
 
what's the synopsis on the T500 and GT6 patch 1.07, does the wheel feel "more vibrant" and stiffer than before? I think so. I'm only on FFB 3 too. (I drive Nur a lot, I want to prolong the life of the wheel, though probably makes no difference in the long run really, If the wheel breaks, regardless of when, I'll have to have it "fixed asap!"
 
mrbasher
Paul,

This is exactly right. In fact the TX does this as well. Also, they add a deadzone at the end of travel as well! I shouldn't say that because now anyone that reads this and has been happily using their pedals without noticing will be looking for it. haha :) Not only that but they have something in the software that makes them sort of "stick" in the deadzone. It's hard to explain. I will say the brake seems to have smaller deadzones than the other pedals.

The only reason I can come up with for the deadzones is to prevent issues that may crop up as the pots age. Given that the wheel is constantly auto-calibrating the min and max points. If the pots are dirty and jittery, you end up with false min and max points. This creates a situation in which you can't get to 0% or 100%.

I overcame this with my CPX adapter via software, but that thing has complete control of it's outputs. For the T500RS pedals, you could do the following to reduce that deadzone:

Calibrate the pedals after turning on the wheel.
Then place your little pads behind the pedals.

What you've then done is calibrated the minimum position which won't ever increase, only go further towards true zero. (potentially) Then, you've moved the pedal's at rest point closer to the edge of the deadzone.

Kind of a pain but I'm not sure what else you can do without using something between the pedals and the wheel to fool it.
Click to expand...

This is really interesting. Thank you for the information. I guess using a john bodin adapter for the G27 pedals,it would do the same for those pedals? I have been contemplating getting the adapter to use my old G27 pedals but they would react the same.
 
NABeast
This is really interesting. Thank you for the information. I guess using a john bodin adapter for the G27 pedals,it would do the same for those pedals? I have been contemplating getting the adapter to use my old G27 pedals but they would react the same.
Click to expand...

Technically, yes. However, reality may be a little different than you might imagine. The reason I say this is that there are a few factors which will determine the actual distance the pedal travels while in a dead zone.

Rather than go into all of that... I would ask John Bodin. He is a good guy and should be able to help you out. I would not discount the mod simply due to the minor dead zones.
 
Hi.
I have an opportunity to buy used T500RS for a half price of new.
But seller claims, that wheel have problem with buttons. He says that both left and right pads act as R1 button. Is it possible to do this by messing with firmware? Or is it hardware problem and nothing i can do with it? (i don't want to open the wheel and messing with soldering gun)
 
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Lambob
what's the synopsis on the T500 and GT6 patch 1.07, does the wheel feel "more vibrant" and stiffer than before? I think so. I'm only on FFB 3 too. (I drive Nur a lot, I want to prolong the life of the wheel, though probably makes no difference in the long run really, If the wheel breaks, regardless of when, I'll have to have it "fixed asap!"
Click to expand...

Were there FFB changes in 1.07? I run my T500 at FFB 3 also, anything more feels unrealistically hard to steer. I haven't played GT6 since Feb. and picked it back up yesterday and noticed it felt a lot better than I last remembered it so I'm wondering if there's been some changes in the FFB since I last played it in Feb.
 

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