Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

It turns out T-GT is simply GT branded PS4 version based on TS-PC and isn't direct drive. I feel...

  • Excited - Still a new and the improved wheel for PS4 by Thrustmaster

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Fine - Knew it won't be direct drive all along

    Votes: 9 21.4%
  • Disappointed - Not a direct drive

    Votes: 11 26.2%
  • Extremely Disappointed - Not drive drive and poor pedals set

    Votes: 15 35.7%

  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
Can some one who already owns one, plug the their T-GT into a PS3 and see if it is recognized as a T300RS on GT6, and get back to us? Thats the rumor when the switch on the lower left is in "other" mode. The T-GT defaults to a T300RS when in "other" mode for the PC and PS4 and if so I might have a winner if also PS3 compatible as well. I still play a lot of GT6.

It doesnt unfortunately. You can navigate the menu’s, but no FFB in game. I believe the t300 has a ps3 and ps4 mode. Hopefully the driverhub will support T-GT! I also like me some GT6
 
I think the T-GT in other mode emulates the TS-XW wheel on the PC.. When selecting this wheel in PC2 rather than the T300 .. the torque was a lot stronger IMO.

Would still be better to get native support on PC games mind you.
 
Unfortunately CPX V2 is discontinued. But basherboards is working on a new and improved version. Hopefully I Will be able to get a Bodin mod in the mean time! I received this email:

“First, I must apologize for the delayed response. I ran out of CPX adapters quite unexpectedly after Forza 7 launched and was faced with making a decision I was not prepared to make. As well, I have been flooded with emails regarding stock availability, thus this email is not directed at any one person, but everyone who has inquired via email.


I have contemplated creating a new adapter for some time now. One that will accept any set of USB pedals on the market, rather than just the Fantec pedals. There are several reasons for this, one of the main being simplicity of use and compatibility of course. I have a prototype which works, and works quite well. However, there is a lot that goes into creating something like this and it takes time. How much time, at this point I cannot say. It will not be available before the end of this year. The device has to be tested and I have to be confident that customers can simply use the device as trouble free as possible. I CANNOT have users running into issues, I do not have the time to support more than a few requests a week. There is simply too much else going on in my life. Thus, the product has to be as dependable and easy to use as I can make it. Much like the CPX V1 and V2.


The new adapter, if all goes as planned, should have a few extra “tricks” up its sleeve… As well, the price will likely remain the same.


Lastly, I do apologize, but I will not be making more of the CPX V1 or V2 adapters. My focus will be on the new version. Please keep an eye on the website for details.”
 
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I hope/think the bodin mod is worth waiting for. It’s a lot cheaper and you don’t need to buy another pedalset.
Personally for that money I would buy fanatec pedals. (Whenever cpx becomes available again)
Yeah I would love to buy The Fanatic metal set with the load cell break do you think there would be any lag input with the CPX adapter? And that is a 12 bit metal set I believe which there's no need for anything higher than that from what I hear.
 
Yeah I would love to buy The Fanatic metal set with the load cell break do you think there would be any lag input with the CPX adapter? And that is a 12 bit metal set I believe which there's no need for anything higher than that from what I hear.
From What i understand there isn’t any input lag.
 
Anyone with a T-GT - does your wheel cut out while calibrating at all? Mine cuts out 2/3 times during calibration on my computer (but then works) but it calibrates fine on PS4. In one USB port, it connects and FFB works but it says "firmware 0" and won't register me turning the wheel. That USB port works fine with my TX and TS-PC. The TS-PC calibrates first time every time, the TX sometimes cuts out once while calibrating. I was wondering if it could be starting up, realising it's connected to a PS4 and starting again but why do that twice or three times?
 
Anyone with a T-GT - does your wheel cut out while calibrating at all? Mine cuts out 2/3 times during calibration on my computer (but then works) but it calibrates fine on PS4. In one USB port, it connects and FFB works but it says "firmware 0" and won't register me turning the wheel. That USB port works fine with my TX and TS-PC. The TS-PC calibrates first time every time, the TX sometimes cuts out once while calibrating. I was wondering if it could be starting up, realising it's connected to a PS4 and starting again but why do that twice or three times?
Did u switch from gt to other when connecting to pc. Mine doesn't cut out. But when doing firmware update u have to hold the power cable in for it to confirm.
 
Yeah that was the first thing I did when I took it out the box because I don't have GT yet. I did a firmware update without touching the power cable while it was in the glitchy port and first time it said it failed and the wheel was totally dead. After replugging it (not sure if into the same port or another one), Windows recognised it and then it installed the firmware but gave error 0x34100002 ("time-out devide should have arrived in HID") but then it was back to how it was before i.e. working in 3/4 ports with calibration cut outs.
 
Anyone with a T-GT - does your wheel cut out while calibrating at all? Mine cuts out 2/3 times during calibration on my computer (but then works) but it calibrates fine on PS4. In one USB port, it connects and FFB works but it says "firmware 0" and won't register me turning the wheel. That USB port works fine with my TX and TS-PC. The TS-PC calibrates first time every time, the TX sometimes cuts out once while calibrating. I was wondering if it could be starting up, realising it's connected to a PS4 and starting again but why do that twice or three times?

Probably a weak USB port.. i have 3 spare USB's left on my PC.. works fine on 2 of them and the 3rd is hit or miss.
 
Yeah that was the first thing I did when I took it out the box because I don't have GT yet. I did a firmware update without touching the power cable while it was in the glitchy port and first time it said it failed and the wheel was totally dead. After replugging it (not sure if into the same port or another one), Windows recognised it and then it installed the firmware but gave error 0x34100002 ("time-out devide should have arrived in HID") but then it was back to how it was before i.e. working in 3/4 ports with calibration cut outs.
I got that same error code. The wheel updated but couldn't confirm and I looked online and they said it had something to do with the female part being pushed in too hard. So the next time I did the update even though it already accepted it, just wasn't able to confirm, I held the power cord straight up and down and it was able to confirm that time because there's a little bit of play When the cord is hanging down.
 
Recently had a conversation with a consistent top 5 alien who is using a T-GT in GT Sport. He uses TP3a's.
Ive seen aliens win with game controllers. That doesnt make it as good or realistic as a load cell for most people.
 
Well I tried wiggling the power cord around but it didn't help. Also tried another couple of ports at the back and 3 in my laptop, all worked fine but again with the calibration cut outs. I can only assume something is causing the wheel to be slightly down on power and that port is also slightly down on power so the combination of the two result in that glitch. I'd fully blame the port but as I say, everything (even a TS-PC) works absolutely fine in that port and those calibration cut outs seem dodgey too and they happen in all PC/laptop ports. But then why doesn't it do that on the PS4? Baffling. Anyway, it's going back for a replacement as I don't want it to die on me in a couple of weeks and the paddle on the rim is slightly faulty too. We shall see how the second one handles it. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
We're talking wheel and pedal setups here though. I'm just saying that while they are better, load cells aren't a crucial factor when it comes to being fast.
My point is that just because somebody good made it work doesnt mean its good for most people or that you shouldnt expect the latest technology from a bundle with a very high price tag. The t3pa is an old brake set and the t3pgt s only upgrade is metal arms which is a durability feature they should have had in the first place.
 
My point is that just because somebody good made it work doesnt mean its good for most people or that you shouldnt expect the latest technology from a bundle with a very high price tag. The t3pa is an old brake set and the t3pgt s only upgrade is metal arms which is a durability feature they should have had in the first place.

That's why i also bought the Pro pedals, will keep the other set a spare.. Hoping Thrustmaster will eventually release the Load Cell brake mod. I contacted them on behalf of a Sim group and the response i got was "Watch this space"
 
My guess is that it's what we've experienced in the past. A lot of people drive cars and then race sims and therefore the potentiometre feels alien and weird, and if they drive 5 days a week and race 1 day a week then it's going to be harder to get used to it. I grew up playing racing games with controllers (potentiometre triggers) and then potentiometre pedals before I'd driven a real car, and both feel pretty natural - it's just distance vs pressure at the end of the day, and you use a potentiometre for the accelerator so if you can manage that you should be able to learn to manage the brakes too. A lot of people say "a wheel upgrade won't make you faster - get a load cell and you'll be miles faster!" but for me it was the exact opposite...

It's not too hard to find the T-GT for £540 and that puts it substantially less than the £681 CSL E + CSL E LC pedals which don't have the transducer. Just like the TX/T300 have settled down from £330 to £230 the T-GT will settle down to £540ish in time, the £700 price is just to pull in the eager folk who can't wait and want the official GT wheel on release.

I got this close to the top in the last week of the Automobilista TTOTW challenge with the standard TX pedals (albeit with low ABS) lol.
Week 12 Leaderboard.jpg

NASA are after me
 
That's why i also bought the Pro pedals, will keep the other set a spare.. Hoping Thrustmaster will eventually release the Load Cell brake mod. I contacted them on behalf of a Sim group and the response i got was "Watch this space"
Good luck. I got no response when I contacted their support about a load cell. Verification that they received it, but no response.
 
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My guess is that it's what we've experienced in the past. A lot of people drive cars and then race sims and therefore the potentiometre feels alien and weird, and if they drive 5 days a week and race 1 day a week then it's going to be harder to get used to it. I grew up playing racing games with controllers (potentiometre triggers) and then potentiometre pedals before I'd driven a real car, and both feel pretty natural - it's just distance vs pressure at the end of the day, and you use a potentiometre for the accelerator so if you can manage that you should be able to learn to manage the brakes too. A lot of people say "a wheel upgrade won't make you faster - get a load cell and you'll be miles faster!" but for me it was the exact opposite...

It's not too hard to find the T-GT for £540 and that puts it substantially less than the £681 CSL E + CSL E LC pedals which don't have the transducer. Just like the TX/T300 have settled down from £330 to £230 the T-GT will settle down to £540ish in time, the £700 price is just to pull in the eager folk who can't wait and want the official GT wheel on release.

I got this close to the top in the last week of the Automobilista TTOTW challenge with the standard TX pedals (albeit with low ABS) lol.
View attachment 693050

NASA are after me
Fingers are much better adapted for fine motor skills than legs and feet thats why controller racing makes more sense w a pot and pedal makes more sense w lc. You make a great point about your relatively greater experience w pots before driving real cars. That is a great observation and why us geezers would prefer the pressure option in addition to the whole gross motor thing.
 
My point is that just because somebody good made it work doesnt mean its good for most people or that you shouldnt expect the latest technology from a bundle with a very high price tag. The t3pa is an old brake set and the t3pgt s only upgrade is metal arms which is a durability feature they should have had in the first place.

I'm not arguing the tactile benefits to using a load cell. And I agree that the t-gt should come with premium pedals for the price. But above average racers using regular pedals are not the exception to the rule. It's more about muscle memory and coordination. But it's cool, I can understand non load cell pedals being a personal issue for you considering the price. Do you left foot brake btw?

I'm not necessarily an alien... I'd like to think I'm an alien/human hybrid :). On any given track I have above average racecraft. The tactile feedback from a good wheel is more important to me than pedals at the moment.

Anyway, I have my T-GT coming tonight. No... I'm not ecstatic about spending the money... but if it offers me a unique and immersive experience, it's worth it to me.
 
My guess is that it's what we've experienced in the past. A lot of people drive cars and then race sims and therefore the potentiometre feels alien and weird, and if they drive 5 days a week and race 1 day a week then it's going to be harder to get used to it. I grew up playing racing games with controllers (potentiometre triggers) and then potentiometre pedals before I'd driven a real car, and both feel pretty natural - it's just distance vs pressure at the end of the day, and you use a potentiometre for the accelerator so if you can manage that you should be able to learn to manage the brakes too. A lot of people say "a wheel upgrade won't make you faster - get a load cell and you'll be miles faster!" but for me it was the exact opposite...

It's not too hard to find the T-GT for £540 and that puts it substantially less than the £681 CSL E + CSL E LC pedals which don't have the transducer. Just like the TX/T300 have settled down from £330 to £230 the T-GT will settle down to £540ish in time, the £700 price is just to pull in the eager folk who can't wait and want the official GT wheel on release.

I got this close to the top in the last week of the Automobilista TTOTW challenge with the standard TX pedals (albeit with low ABS) lol.
View attachment 693050

NASA are after me

That’s why I’m used to potentiometers as well. Used DFGT stock for a long time before upgrading to G29. Which was a huge improvement at the time. But I can imagine people entering simracing with a driving license having trouble with the brakes.

Back in the day aliens where using even using DFGT’s to clock amazing results. Loved this wheel though... wish I didn’t sell it at the time. Still play some ps3 from time to time. It was just so damn loud!
 
I'm not arguing the tactile benefits to using a load cell. And I agree that the t-gt should come with premium pedals for the price. But above average racers using regular pedals are not the exception to the rule. It's more about muscle memory and coordination. But it's cool, I can understand non load cell pedals being a personal issue for you considering the price. Do you left foot brake btw?

I'm not necessarily an alien... I'd like to think I'm an alien/human hybrid :). On any given track I have above average racecraft. The tactile feedback from a good wheel is more important to me than pedals at the moment.

Anyway, I have my T-GT coming tonight. No... I'm not ecstatic about spending the money... but if it offers me a unique and immersive experience, it's worth it to me.

I’m just average in my racing so I was wondering what setting you prefer? Low FFB? Which settings for GT sport and/or pcars2 if you own it.
 
I’m just average in my racing so I was wondering what setting you prefer? Low FFB? Which settings for GT sport and/or pcars2 if you own it.


Low feedback always.... the fastest guys will always have low ff settings. You don't want to fight the wheel.

Before the patch I was at 2/3. Post patch I'm at 5/5... but that's only because I'm having trouble feeling the front tires slip with my t300. I think it's wearing out. So I anticipate running low ff settings again once I get my T-GT.
 
Low feedback always.... the fastest guys will always have low ff settings. You don't want to fight the wheel.

Before the patch I was at 2/3. Post patch I'm at 5/5... but that's only because I'm having trouble feeling the front tires slip with my t300. I think it's wearing out. So I anticipate running low ff settings again once I get my T-GT.

The winner of mclaren’s world fastest gamer is a fellow Dutchman Rudy van Buren! He uses a G27 and stock pedals!
 
I'm not arguing the tactile benefits to using a load cell. And I agree that the t-gt should come with premium pedals for the price. But above average racers using regular pedals are not the exception to the rule. It's more about muscle memory and coordination. But it's cool, I can understand non load cell pedals being a personal issue for you considering the price. Do you left foot brake btw?

I'm not necessarily an alien... I'd like to think I'm an alien/human hybrid :). On any given track I have above average racecraft. The tactile feedback from a good wheel is more important to me than pedals at the moment.

Anyway, I have my T-GT coming tonight. No... I'm not ecstatic about spending the money... but if it offers me a unique and immersive experience, it's worth it to me.
If someone has spent more hours of their life playing video games than driving real cars then most of what you are saying makes perfect sense when it comes to manipulating controls. But then you go back to the whole immersion thing and if immersion is that important, a load cell is better at that too bc it works based on pressure like a real car.
 
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Low feedback always.... the fastest guys will always have low ff settings. You don't want to fight the wheel.

Before the patch I was at 2/3. Post patch I'm at 5/5... but that's only because I'm having trouble feeling the front tires slip with my t300. I think it's wearing out. So I anticipate running low ff settings again once I get my T-GT.
Agree 100 percent on not fighting the wheel. Sometimes I wonder if some want all this feedback just for its own sake.
 
I agree about running low settings. I was running 1/3-5 (car dependant) on my T500 before the patch and am running 2/3-5 on the T-GT post patch.

Also, a good point was raised about the transducer in another thread that I hadn't thought of, main reason being that I'm already set up for tactile. The vibration could be an issue if you have a combination of hard flooring and no rubber feet on your rig, especially in a unit/flat. Even though the T-GT's transducer is far less powerful than my Buttkicker I can see how it could become offensive to those around unless properly insulated.
 
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