Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

It turns out T-GT is simply GT branded PS4 version based on TS-PC and isn't direct drive. I feel...

  • Excited - Still a new and the improved wheel for PS4 by Thrustmaster

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Fine - Knew it won't be direct drive all along

    Votes: 9 21.4%
  • Disappointed - Not a direct drive

    Votes: 11 26.2%
  • Extremely Disappointed - Not drive drive and poor pedals set

    Votes: 15 35.7%

  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
how do you know there isn't another factor (gearing, software, coding, electronics etc) that could cause a FFB strength difference?
Just having the same motor and resolution is not enough to claim they are identical.
the fanatec csl elite and clubsport v2.5 have identical motors and electronics, yet those are over 2nm different in torque strength.
They also both produce 50% more dynamics and 4 times greater stall force than the previous gen wheels (TX and T300). Odd that these figures would also both be the same if the gearing was different.
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Also this (and Barry knows his stuff):


Barry also mentions the fans are in different places.

Edit: Isn't it only the Elite PS 4 that has the same motor, not the Elite?
 
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how do you know there isn't another factor (gearing, software, coding, electronics etc) that could cause a FFB strength difference?
Just having the same motor and resolution is not enough to claim they are identical.
the fanatec csl elite and clubsport v2.5 have identical motors and electronics, yet those are over 2nm different in torque strength.
You giving example with Fanatec, but CSW have completely different internal mechanism...here everything is the same - only the transducer is different part involved... ofcourse if TM wanted can boost a bit the T-GT, but I doubt that, because they will risk the belt/gearing mechanism to fail if the power is too much... and to be honest the wheel is powerfull enough for what it is...if someone want more power - can buy these days DD wheel on the price of T-GT or even lower!:)
 
You giving example with Fanatec, but CSW have completely different internal mechanism...here everything is the same - only the transducer is different part involved... ofcourse if TM wanted can boost a bit the T-GT, but I doubt that, because they will risk the belt/gearing mechanism to fail if the power is too much... and to be honest the wheel is powerfull enough for what it is...if someone want more power - can buy these days DD wheel on the price of T-GT or even lower!:)
Yeah I buy into them being identical. I just wanted some solid proof.
BUT I will say that DD's are still far out of the pricerange of these wheels.
The used wheel market makes tspc very affordable. I bought one mint condition for $300.
DD's never go for cheap used.
 
This is something new I've never seen before. Says the T-GT is discontinued. I can't find it at walmart.ca and there is no stock at Memory Express of Canada Computers in canada. Could a new package be coming out with the new loadcell pedals?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1360283-REG/thrustmaster_4169087_t_gt_racing_wheel.html
I was wondering the same thing. B&H Video has them for 430 USD and now shows there discontinued. Amazon in US is also out. Hmmm. Can we hope. I was on the verge of ordering one at b& h prices
 
Anyone know if the tgt is a little stronger ffb than tspc or is it identical?
Dear Hristo,
Thank you for contacting Thrustmaster Tech Support
I'm sure the torque varies a little between each wheel. The power is approx the same on all 3 of our turbo supply powered wheels; T-GT, TS-PC and TS-XW.
Unfortunately, we do not have the torque values available to give out to our customers.
If you have any other questions or concerns, please reply directly to this email; do not open a new ticket. Thank you
To ensure the most efficient follow-up of your query, please answer directly to this email (do not open a new ticket).
Kind regards,
Your Thrustmaster Customer Support Agent, Nancy
 
I have both TS-PC - planning to sold and T-GT- bought recently...cant see any difference and even it exist it is more to numbers than to feeling...What I can say T-GT feels made with more money on the table, no matter internals are same...maybe because of the transducer on the back and the sofisticated rim with tons of knobs etc, but I can clearly see where the extra hundreds of Euro are trown...not sure that this is good idea to trow money on that model. Saying this, because the statement that T-GT is overpriced if it is true, then TS-PC is huge overpriced. What I can call insane is to build that wheel with that transducer only for GT Sport...
Ofcourse the pedals are regular pedals - nothing fancy, but the base and the rim - like wheel plate is good. In the future will make maybe some mod of the actual rim and to keep the button plate!:)
 
I have both TS-PC - planning to sold and T-GT- bought recently...cant see any difference and even it exist it is more to numbers than to feeling...
Rim sizes and weights would be more of a contributing factor imo... but that can be changed on all of them.

And I agree about the transducer as well.
 
For those which dont have that wheel - if they curious why some dev didnt do app to send signal to the transducer on PC games - Thrusmtaster did it impossible...when you are on GT mode - Windows see the wheel like Generic Force feedback wheel...no Thrusmaster control panel, nothing...same as T300RS for example when you are on PS4 mode on PC with that difference - here you have PS4 mode/PC called "Other" and PS4 mode/GT only called "GT"! Also Drivehub works with T-GT only on "Other" mode - so, no luck to trick it there, too!:))))
 
What I can call insane is to build that wheel with that transducer only for GT Sport...

The reason is because GTS has zero road surface feel without it. Playing on any other proper sim on laser scanned tracks gives you an equivalent feeling as the T-DFB (even better actually because it's authentic and not a canned effect).

The whole thing is just a joint marketing exercise between GT and TM to get some more extra bucks from consumers that would otherwise be buying TS-PC or TS-XW.
 
I promised an update after my racing seat has arrived.

Once my Trak Racer RS6 seat has arrived and everything is installed properly, I'll send an update in this forum to describe any differences and experiences. Looking forward to it!

Firstly, my order of the Trak Racer RS6 got cancelled, so I had to buy another racing seat. After some quick online search on local webshops (availability and options of racing seats is very limited where I live), I decided to buy the Next Level Racing GT Track. The racing seat is awesome and I'm very happy with it. In combination with the TGT and Gran Turismo sport, it's brilliant. I'm absolutely positive now the transducer is working, because I can feel the vibrations through the whole rig and seat, even with the vibration settings on 50% lol. It makes the whole driving experience much more immersive and fun, because it kind of feels like the rumbling you would also feel in a real car. You can also feel the feedback of tyre grip more properly and in some cars you can indeed feel the changing of gears.

When playing PC2 and AC, I actually miss the effect of the transducer. The driving experience feels a bit empty without that vibration in the seat. But your mind adjusts very quickly once you're driving a couple of minutes and you'll forget its absence. I still love PC2 because I think for a console racing sim, it's the only game that has a real and realistic clutch feel. Engine stalling, clutch control, etc. AC is awesome because the driving and tyre grip feel is the most realistic in my opinion. Lol after both these games, it feel like you have unlimited grip in Gran Turismo Sport. But regardless, the transducer effect and the great online system, still make it my favourite racing game on the PS4.

So for people who only race on the PS4, meaning there are not much other options for buttkickers etc. I would definitely recommend the TGT, but only if you're into Gran Turismo Sport of course. It really works very well and unique in that game. You would need a proper racing seat rig as well though, because before I thought the transducer was not working properly because I couldn't feel its effect XD
 
I still love PC2 because I think for a console racing sim, it's the only game that has a real and realistic clutch feel.

Wait, what!?! :scared:

I don't want to hijack this thread or turn it into a sim discussion, and keeping in mind that PC2 is one of my favorite sims, I have to say that:
It's the only sim out there where there's no proper clutch implementation and you can shift in any H-pattern car without ever touching the clutch!!! It's actually one of the biggest issues and most complained-over issue around the whole community! You just shocked me there sir.
 
Wait, what!?! :scared:

I don't want to hijack this thread or turn it into a sim discussion, and keeping in mind that PC2 is one of my favorite sims, I have to say that:
It's the only sim out there where there's no proper clutch implementation and you can shift in any H-pattern car without ever touching the clutch!!! It's actually one of the biggest issues and most complained-over issue around the whole community! You just shocked me there sir.

Wait, seriously? Are you sure your settings are correct?

You need to make sure the TGT is started in "other" mode. PC2 will detect the wheel as a T300RS. In the controller settings of PC2 there is a setting for auto ignition and auto start engine. Switch these 2 off, so you'll need to assign 2 buttons for these.

I'll check all my settings for you later today, but I'm 100% sure the clutch and h shifter are all working perfectly here. For example, you can even make the car moving, by slowly engaging the clutch in 1st gear, like a real car. engaging the clutch without accelerating will result in the car stalling. Also, the car will stall if you're not moving and you'll engage the clutch when not in neutral. You'll have to restart the engine (with the button that you assigned) while disengaging the clutch, otherwise nothing will happen.

As far as I know, this is the only racing sim on the PS4 which has this (besides PC1, if I recall correctly, it also works there like a charm :D). Perhaps in Dirt Rally 1 it's also possible, but I can't seem to get the h shifter and clutch working properly there...
 
Ok we're on 2 different waves now.
Yes, the clutch in PC2 definitely works, when you use it.
However, you can still change gears in all H-pattern cars without using the clutch at all. And that's irrespective of the used wheel.
I hope you now get what I mean :)
 
on the topic of the rumble effect, I get more "rumble" in AC than pCars or GTS. There are places in AC where i can feel rumbling in my pedals :D (this is great for me) Perhaps they wired my TGT wrong, but if that's the case I'm not gonna complain
 
Ok we're on 2 different waves now.
Yes, the clutch in PC2 definitely works, when you use it.
However, you can still change gears in all H-pattern cars without using the clutch at all. And that's irrespective of the used wheel.
I hope you now get what I mean :)

Alright, apologies, you're right. Honestly, I never even thought of trying to change gears using the h shifter without the clutch pedal. After your last message yesterday, I tried it and... omg lol :banghead: I guess, in a real car it's possible if you rev match the engine, but otherwise there is no way you'll get it into gear. Such a shame they've implemented the clutch like this in the game, because when using the clutch pedal, it works really well.
 
on the topic of the rumble effect, I get more "rumble" in AC than pCars or GTS. There are places in AC where i can feel rumbling in my pedals :D (this is great for me) Perhaps they wired my TGT wrong, but if that's the case I'm not gonna complain

Your TGT's transducer is working in AC!?
 
Your TGT's transducer is working in AC!?

i don't know if its the transducer or just the ffb reverberating thru my rig..... but I like it. I put my hand on the wheel body while it was happening and felt nothing
 
Alright, apologies, you're right. Honestly, I never even thought of trying to change gears using the h shifter without the clutch pedal. After your last message yesterday, I tried it and... omg lol :banghead: I guess, in a real car it's possible if you rev match the engine, but otherwise there is no way you'll get it into gear. Such a shame they've implemented the clutch like this in the game, because when using the clutch pedal, it works really well.
Yeah never understood why they did it like that in this game. Ian Bell once explained it but I wasn't convinced at all. All other games detect the existence of a clutch pedal in your system, and force you to use it in a H-Pattern car.
BTW, using the clutch will make you faster in PC2 because the devs implemented a very slight delay when you shift without using the clutch (as a hidden penalty let's say) so you're better keep enjoying it :)
 
I only play on PS4 and have a buttkicker (witch is great) and a G29 setup. I'm in the mood for changing the G29 to a T-GT with T3PA-PRO.
Since I allready drive with the buttkicker, I don't know if the transducer in the T-GT will work well together with the buttkicker.
Any thoughts?

Also, is the T-GT being replaced?
Some dealers in Denmark, has it as "obsolute".
 
I only play on PS4 and have a buttkicker (witch is great) and a G29 setup. I'm in the mood for changing the G29 to a T-GT with T3PA-PRO.
Since I allready drive with the buttkicker, I don't know if the transducer in the T-GT will work well together with the buttkicker.
Any thoughts?

Also, is the T-GT being replaced?
Some dealers in Denmark, has it as "obsolute".

Yes multiple sites have no stock and it is being shown as discontinued. Nobody knows really what the status of it is, you can't find it in stock in Canada anywhere. Maybe there will be a new one with PS5 release? Nobody knows. I really did want to try using it and experiencing the transducer.
 
I only play on PS4 and have a buttkicker (witch is great) and a G29 setup. I'm in the mood for changing the G29 to a T-GT with T3PA-PRO.
Since I allready drive with the buttkicker, I don't know if the transducer in the T-GT will work well together with the buttkicker.
Any thoughts?

Also, is the T-GT being replaced?
Some dealers in Denmark, has it as "obsolute".

May I ask, which buttkicker do you have and do you feel the effect well? I thought that, because there is no real software support on the PS4, buttkickers on this platform basically just measure the amount of low audio vibrations. I’m curious about your experience.
 
May I ask, which buttkicker do you have and do you feel the effect well? I thought that, because there is no real software support on the PS4, buttkickers on this platform basically just measure the amount of low audio vibrations. I’m curious about your experience.

I have my PS4 connected to a surround sound system and then the Buttkicker BK-SK connected to the subwoofer output.
It just gives that extra, and I know it's not the same as if it was connected to a PC, where a program controlls it.
So yes, it's just the amount of low audio vibrations.
But you can feel the difference between gravel and asphalt.
Also the difference between witch motor the car has.
When my friends are trying the system, they are amazed.
And if it's turned off doing a race, the driver races slower than, when the BK-SK is turned on.
 
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Yes multiple sites have no stock and it is being shown as discontinued. Nobody knows really what the status of it is, you can't find it in stock in Canada anywhere. Maybe there will be a new one with PS5 release? Nobody knows. I really did want to try using it and experiencing the transducer.

It's on sale in Germany for 445€ and I'm going to Germany next week, so maybe I will buy it there.
Cross my fingers that it will work with the PS5.
Or else the T-GT will be sold with the PS4.
 
Hey guys!
so I was a T300RS user since 2015 and was always really happy with it, never had any problems whatsoever. The ffb was really good for its price, but there was one issue that was always bothering me: the ffb fade.
This is why I looked up alternatives for quite a while already.
I'll be honest, I always found the T-GT to be really cool, and as a PC and PS4 GT Sport player it was the only logical upgrade besides the fanatec department. The thing that held me back on both wheels was obviously the price tag. I also was deep inside the thrustmaster ecosystem so it would be a plausible move towards the TM- product.
All this came together nicely when I saw that the T-GT was on sale for a mind boggling 419€ with free shipping. I was sold.
20200313_150905.jpg

I have the wheel 3 days so far.. and man.. it's so much better than the T300!
Wheel and base quality is really adequate, I even find the pedals to have better weight to them compared to the nearly identical T3PA-Pedals that I used to have on my Playseat rig. I really like the paddle shifters, more powerful click and shorter throw compared to the T300RS paddles.
The ffb is very smooth and accurate, which really helps with consistency. And my main concern is gone - no more ffb fade, hell yeah!

I really enjoy the T-DFB. I was so surprised when I first used it! Because I'm using a Playseat, it felt like I have a buttkicker and a 'pedalkicker?' installed. I was also surprised about its accuracy. It gradually gets stronger the more g forces you tackle. Just a few examples where it really shines: When youre on the starting grid and bounce on the rev limiter, you really feel the engine rumbling you around. Even when youre cruising and shifting through gears you feel the shift sending off a satisfying push as you expect in a real car - awesome stuff!
It's truly a great addition of immersion in GTS imo and I wish it would be available on pc.
So far I'm really happy with this kit. I think there is nothing on the market that could come close to this quality at a price of 419€!
Now let's just hope the best for reliability! I'm positive about that with my experience with my old T300RS :)
 
Hi all, have had my T-GT for over one year and or has developed a enormous side to side play.

I removed from the motor piece. The central piece feels solid there. I identified the culprit being the center back of the wheel. The grooved plastic piece that connects to the base. The two small screws in the middle are firmly tied. Is the front piece with GT emblem removable?

At a loss here. Anyone ever experienced this? I try to do a search but not getting the answers. Thanks
 
Count me as another person having trouble. The random button press issue has been getting very severe lately. I'd say 1 in 5 laps which makes racing online a nerve wracking affair to say the least. If I'm really smooth and be really careful not to tug the steering towards me it's ok, but sometimes rough movements are unavoidable when driving on the limit. The buttons that are affected are always the same: PS button (the one to go back to XMB), Start and Share. Occasionally the rotary dials are also affected too. Firmware updated, wheel cleaned, made sure all bolts and cables are tight, etc. No difference.

I'm out of warranty anyway, but even if I send it to TM it's highly unlikely they can do anything, am I right? I don't think they're going to send me a new unit for free and even if they do, there's a high chance the problem will just come back again in a few months.
 
Count me as another person having trouble. The random button press issue has been getting very severe lately. I'd say 1 in 5 laps which makes racing online a nerve wracking affair to say the least. If I'm really smooth and be really careful not to tug the steering towards me it's ok, but sometimes rough movements are unavoidable when driving on the limit. The buttons that are affected are always the same: PS button (the one to go back to XMB), Start and Share. Occasionally the rotary dials are also affected too. Firmware updated, wheel cleaned, made sure all bolts and cables are tight, etc. No difference.

I'm out of warranty anyway, but even if I send it to TM it's highly unlikely they can do anything, am I right? I don't think they're going to send me a new unit for free and even if they do, there's a high chance the problem will just come back again in a few months.
If I were you I would try this modification:
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/742...quick-change?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1&bes=1



This mod will make the connection between the steering wheel and the shaft tighter. Of course, there is no guarantee that it will solve the problem, but the modification is not expensive and worth a try.:)
 
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