Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
DeuxMilles
Hi,

after broken pedals, now the wheel itself is broken:



this happens every time I switch on the PS4.

After this wild "calibration" the wheel mostly stands out of the middle, which means it looks and drives a bit to the right. If anyone knows what happened here and how to solve it....

Thanks in advance,
D.
Click to expand...


Good news and bad news. The good news is you already have made the video that Thrustmaster ask for when you report a problem. The bad news is your wheel is broken so send it back. It happened to me and many many others. They will replace it if it is under warranty.
 
My T300rs arrives today along with the 599XX Evo alcantara wheel.... does anyone know if the 599XX Evo wheel is now supported by Gran Turismo Sport? Last I read, it seemed the buttons on the wheel were not correctly configured with GTS. Hoping they've patched this.
 
Took the plunge and picked up the T300RS GTE for a decent price at my local retailer. Got the TH8A shifter through Amazon yesterday. Wish me luck! 👍

After much consideration and constant price checking this was the best way to go. The new Sparco R383 rim sealed the deal, though I can’t find it anywhere (yet).

I was thinking about getting the T300RS servo for $200 but missed a great price on the T3PA pedals ($66!). Well at least I get the GTE pedals and a rim for the time being.

Though the G27/G29 wheels were great, I can finally go back and forth between PS4 and PS3 with full functionality and omit the painstaking task of switching out the hardware on my rig. Finally!
 
cjr3559
Took the plunge and picked up the T300RS GTE for a decent price at my local retailer. Got the TH8A shifter through Amazon yesterday. Wish me luck! 👍

After much consideration and constant price checking this was the best way to go. The new Sparco R383 rim sealed the deal, though I can’t find it anywhere (yet).

I was thinking about getting the T300RS servo for $200 but missed a great price on the T3PA pedals ($66!). Well at least I get the GTE pedals and a rim for the time being.

Though the G27/G29 wheels were great, I can finally go back and forth between PS4 and PS3 with full functionality and omit the painstaking task of switching out the hardware on my rig. Finally!
Click to expand...
Break out the Credit Card https://www.ricmotech.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=THR-R383&CartID=1
 
cjr3559
The new Sparco R383 rim sealed the deal, though I can’t find it anywhere (yet).
Click to expand...

Picked up this wheel yesterday and it feels fantastic but I can't get the button mapping to work with the PS4, updated the fw, switches are in the right position, I'm stumped, any ideas?
 
Hi,

PaulDiRoosta
Good news and bad news. The good news is you already have made the video that Thrustmaster ask for when you report a problem. The bad news is your wheel is broken so send it back. It happened to me and many many others. They will replace it if it is under warranty.
Click to expand...

I wrote TM on monday, no answer until now. Since yesterday there is also the FFB gone, no more force on the wheel. It now feels like an arcade game of the 80s :crazy:

I had three issues with TM-wheels:

First I bought a T150 which was instantly dead. Sent it back and bought a T300RS, whose brakepedal (or was it the throttle?) busted after a few weeks. Now after a bit more than a year the base is destroyed.

Sorry Thrustmaster, but that's it. Yesterday I ordered a Fanatec CSL Elite PS4-Bundle.

depleted,
D.
 
Please pardon me if this has been answered but can the non load cell CSL Elite pedals be used with the T300RS w/out an adapter? I see the pedals use a RJ12 connection and should plug directly to the base. I’m wondering if this is an option or should I just go for the T3PA Pro set?
 
turismoslayer
Please pardon me if this has been answered but can the non load cell CSL Elite pedals be used with the T300RS w/out an adapter? I see the pedals use a RJ12 connection and should plug directly to the base. I’m wondering if this is an option or should I just go for the T3PA Pro set?
Click to expand...
I was thinking about doing the opposite,T150 two pedal set with CSL elite wheel.

On the left side of the photo is RJ12 of the Fanatec CSL Elite two pedal set.On the right side of the photo is RJ12 of the T150 two pedal set.The size of the RJ12 and arrangement of the wires is identical but the clip of the CSL is in the middle while on the T150 the clip is on the left,which is a problem.

Snapshot_20171203_1.JPG
 
super_gt
I was thinking about doing the opposite,T150 two pedal set with CSL elite wheel.

On the left side of the photo is RJ12 of the Fanatec CSL Elite two pedal set.On the right side of the photo is RJ12 of the T150 two pedal set.The size of the RJ12 and arrangement of the wires is identical but the clip of the CSL is in the middle while on the T150 the clip is on the left,which is a problem.

View attachment 696806
Click to expand...
If the potentiometers push out the same signals, it would be a case of Just using a generic RJ12 and rewiring in the case of the t150/t300. In the oppositie case ive never seen RJ12 with the clip on the left?!?
 
super_gt
I was thinking about doing the opposite,T150 two pedal set with CSL elite wheel.

On the left side of the photo is RJ12 of the Fanatec CSL Elite two pedal set.On the right side of the photo is RJ12 of the T150 two pedal set.The size of the RJ12 and arrangement of the wires is identical but the clip of the CSL is in the middle while on the T150 the clip is on the left,which is a problem.

View attachment 696806
Click to expand...
I was gonna ask why would you do that? Then I saw what you did. Crafty work there sir.

I was thinking the same thing @PocketZeven.
 
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Thrustmaster is complete trash! Bought the t300rs gt and the 599 alcantara wheel in October. Immediately had overheating issues and would loose ffb within 30min of gameplay. I manually set the fan inside the servo to run all the time and even had a second usb fan blowing air into the vents on the servo. Still loose ffb! My 599 alcantara wheel will randomly hit the start button during gameplay.
So I emailed thrustmaster. 3 days no response. I called them and they told me to take them a video of it happening. So I did and sent it to them. Few days of waiting they finally emailed me back and told me to prepare it for shipping. So I did. Few more days later they finally sent me an email with the packing slip. So I sent the servo and the 599 rim to them for repairs. 10 days later I got it back and was happy.... for about 30 minutes...still lost ffb within 30min of gameplay and the wheel still randomly hit the start button during races. I’ve never been more unhappy with a product and completely frustrated with their customer service. I’m calling them tomorrow and asking for a new servo and 599 wheel or a full refund. If you’re looking for a good sim wheel do not buy thrustmaster. I’ll update more as time goes on.
 
Set up the GTE and TH8A shifter today after buying them last week, and OH MAN is this wheel/shifter amazing. Stunning. The G29 was good, but so far this wheel completely blows it away. Smooth as silk, no dead zone, and precise. Love it. And the shifter is incredible. For three years I’ve been wanting the TH8A and it was well worth the wait. And the GTE pedals are a nice surprise. I didn’t think they would match the G27/G29 pedals but they are excellent.

Only thing I miss on the G29 is the leather wrapped wheel, as the rubber GTE rim is kind of sticky and doesn’t feel that great in my hands. But the whole point was to get the R383 anyway so it really doesn’t make much difference in the long run (except for $ out of my pocket). And no more accidentally mashing my palm onto a button on the G29 in the middle of a hairpin. The right paddle is a little sticky, but it works. Don’t use the paddles much anyway.

So glad I got this setup. 👍

Oh, and no more spaghetti wires all over the place trying to painstakingly tuck them in, under, and around the G29. Another plus for the TM!
 
Sorry for the double post, but in an effort to keep my new T300 running for years to come I read and reread the instruction manual thoroughly to make sure I’m operating it properly. Some interesting notes:

  • The USB sliding switch on the racing wheel’s base must always be set to the proper position (PS3 or PS4) before connecting to the wheel’s USB cable to the system. To change the sliding switch position, disconnect the USB cable from the system and then change the position of the switch before reconnecting the USB cable to the system.

Also, I wonder how many failures are a result of not using a surge protector. Incidentally the manual doesn’t mention it, but I always use one for all expensive electronics anyway.


And my personal favorite warning from the manual which it seems hardly anyone heeds (myself included):

  • For safety reasons, never use the pedal set with bare feet or while wearing only socks on your feet. THRUSTMASTER DISCLAIMS ALL RESPONSIBILITY IN THE EVENT OF INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE PEDAL SET WITHOUT SHOES.
Why, will the pedals suddenly burst into flames? :odd: Surely they’re referring to the possibility of pinch hazards.
 
Blood*Specter
Kendo33
The T300RS/GT Sport combination has been a nightmare for me. I've been all over various forums asking why my wheel did not work in GTS.
Well after some good suggestions from people on GT Planet I may be able to help you out.

1. Use PS3 Mode for the "T300RS "ALCANTAR" Ferrari wheel in GTSport. If you don't own a special edition Thrustmaster wheel base it might be a good thing.

Why? Because PD/Sony did not include any of the button functions for anything other than the regular T300RS. It seem the GT sponsored wheels like the T500RS are good to go. But any "Special" wheels like Ferrari or Ferrari XXX packages are not on the menu. This means your button functions are basically screwed completely up. More on that later.

2. If you are using the TH8-RS shifter, plug it into the wheel base. Do not plug the wheel and shifter into your PS4.

3. Insure the RED Mode light is one.

After making the setting changes to your wheel base, restart your PS4. It should do the calibration routine, you know spin left, spin right and center itself while the PS is booting.

THIS IS IMPORTANT: You know GT Sport has recognized your T300RS if it calibrates again when you start GT Sport.

As for the buttons, I would try setting them all to N/A except for the shift paddles. This way you can go in and test which buttons actually work for the special T300RS wheels. It's a sad thing, but it seems to be the only way. I would hope PD/Sony will eventually include the full range of Thrustmaster wheel models. :odd:
Click to expand...
Hey guys is the t300 actually supposed to calibrate again when booting up GT sport? Mine only calibrates on ps4 boot up and it seems to work fine.
Also do you guys have any suggestions for racing games on ps4 other than GT sport? I tried dirt rally but the force feedback with the t300gt is horrendous and i returned it the same day i bought it.
 
FiaRua
Hey guys is the t300 actually supposed to calibrate again when booting up GT sport? Mine only calibrates on ps4 boot up and it seems to work fine.
Also do you guys have any suggestions for racing games on ps4 other than GT sport? I tried dirt rally but the force feedback with the t300gt is horrendous and i returned it the same day i bought it.
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If you are into GT sport, Project cars 2 is the next best thing. If you want more simulation the Assetto Corsa. If you are into formula 1, then F1 2017. I guess you didn’t dial in the ffb because dirt rally is a fun game!
 
cjr3559
Sorry for the double post, but in an effort to keep my new T300 running for years to come I read and reread the instruction manual thoroughly to make sure I’m operating it properly. Some interesting notes:

  • The USB sliding switch on the racing wheel’s base must always be set to the proper position (PS3 or PS4) before connecting to the wheel’s USB cable to the system. To change the sliding switch position, disconnect the USB cable from the system and then change the position of the switch before reconnecting the USB cable to the system.

Also, I wonder how many failures are a result of not using a surge protector. Incidentally the manual doesn’t mention it, but I always use one for all expensive electronics anyway.


And my personal favorite warning from the manual which it seems hardly anyone heeds (myself included):

  • For safety reasons, never use the pedal set with bare feet or while wearing only socks on your feet. THRUSTMASTER DISCLAIMS ALL RESPONSIBILITY IN THE EVENT OF INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE PEDAL SET WITHOUT SHOES.
Why, will the pedals suddenly burst into flames? :odd: Surely they’re referring to the possibility of pinch hazards.
Click to expand...
I believe it also states a sequence to plugging everything in on set up before powering up too.

1. Plug pedals to base
2. Plug power cable to base
3. Plug power cable to outlet
4. Plug usb to console
5. Turn on console

Have had my T300 for almost two years no issues.

FiaRua
Hey guys is the t300 actually supposed to calibrate again when booting up GT sport? Mine only calibrates on ps4 boot up and it seems to work fine.
Also do you guys have any suggestions for racing games on ps4 other than GT sport? I tried dirt rally but the force feedback with the t300gt is horrendous and i returned it the same day i bought it.
Click to expand...
It did on PS3 with GT5 and 6, twice. Once on power up and once when booting the game. I don’t have Sport (yet) but on the betas it didn’t calibrate when booting the game.
 
Don't know if just lucky or it has a bearing... got my T300 10/24/14 from Amazon. Never used ffb above 60%. Never had any cooling, fading or weird problems. Maybe because I kept the box to send it back just in case. I've used it heavily on GT6 and Automobilista.
 
I searched this thread for an answer, but after having this wheel for a couple weeks I notice the wheel seems to remain in a low power state even when my PS4 is in rest mode. Is this normal? The reason I ask is when I place my head close to the base it always emits a faint humming even when it appears to be off. I suppose I could unplug it, but if I use it a couple days a week does it hurt leaving it plugged in when not in use?
 
The T300 has a rather out of date power supply unit. It uses a laminated transformer to reduce the voltage from the mains supply. As long as you have the mains switched on the transformer will buzz. Switch the wheel off at the mains to get rid of the buzz. To power up fully the wheel base needs a 5v supply via usb which will be present when the PS4 is on, not sure if it this 5v is there when it is in rest mode. Going by this wheels history of failure if I was you I would totally power down the wheel when not in use.
 
cjr3559
I searched this thread for an answer, but after having this wheel for a couple weeks I notice the wheel seems to remain in a low power state even when my PS4 is in rest mode. Is this normal? The reason I ask is when I place my head close to the base it always emits a faint humming even when it appears to be off. I suppose I could unplug it, but if I use it a couple days a week does it hurt leaving it plugged in when not in use?
Click to expand...

I have the T150 and although it's constructed a little bit differently, I noticed when I first started using it that even after I'd turned off the PS4 that the T150 power plug would remain warm to the touch, even the next day. I couldn't hear any noises coming from the wheel or wheel base itself, but I didn't like the fact that the plug was staying warm. So I started unplugging it each time I quit using it. I figured if it's warm to the touch, it has to be using electricity. So I plug it back in to the surge protector before I power up the PS4. I haven't had any issues with the T150 at all, and i've had it going on two years now.
 
Just a heads up that B&H Photo Video site has some really good deals on the T300 and it's different variations as well as the different wheel add-ons right now.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?sts=ma&N=0&pn=3&Ntt=thrustmaster&

T300 Ferrari Integral edition (3 pedal set with 599xx Evo add-on) $299.99
T300 RS GT (3 pedal set) down to $299.99
T300 RS (2 pedal set) $249.99
T300 servo base (PS4) $159.99
Ferrari F1 Add-on $89.99
T3PA-Pros $119.99
Ferrari 599xx Evo add-on $99.99
 
Can anyone describe what clipping feels like? I’ve been playing WRC7, and in the tight hairpins when the wheel is turned and the FFB is strong the wheel has a slight buzz feel. Is that clipping or normal FFB replicating understeer?
 
cjr3559
Can anyone describe what clipping feels like? I’ve been playing WRC7, and in the tight hairpins when the wheel is turned and the FFB is strong the wheel has a slight buzz feel. Is that clipping or normal FFB replicating understeer?
Click to expand...

Clipping is simply when your wheel is maxing out its potential. Doesn't have a distinct feel and in most cases it's when you have strong feedback aka a heavy wheel but you aren't getting the finer details of the feedback because the force which is best thought of as a sound wave peaks and loses the different shapes (again think of a sound wave as it's oscillating) it produces to provide the different feedback feelings.

I know Assetto Corsa and pCars2 have in game ways to see if you are clipping but haven't played WRC7 to be able to help with that game specifically.
 
cjr3559
Can anyone describe what clipping feels like? I’ve been playing WRC7, and in the tight hairpins when the wheel is turned and the FFB is strong the wheel has a slight buzz feel. Is that clipping or normal FFB replicating understeer?
Click to expand...
It's exactly that. The buzz feel is how the T300 (or maybe Thrustmaster wheels in general) manifests itself when clipping occurs.
 
turismoslayer
Please pardon me if this has been answered but can the non load cell CSL Elite pedals be used with the T300RS w/out an adapter? I see the pedals use a RJ12 connection and should plug directly to the base. I’m wondering if this is an option or should I just go for the T3PA Pro set?
Click to expand...
I tried this today with T150 and it does not work,which means it will not work with the T300 also.
 
super_gt
I tried this today with T150 and it does not work,which means it will not work with the T300 also.
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Thanks for the follow up! Good to know. I searched around for RJ12 connectors with the off center tab, which I read is non modular, but didn’t find much. I thought I might buy the Elite pedals then re wire the Thrustmaster pedal connector but that would be an expensive opps if they didn’t work. Fortunately it was the holiday season and my wife bought me a set of T3PA Pros. :dopey: Problem solved!
 

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