Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
I posted a few pages back, moaning about my 3 T300 RS’s and the unreliability.

Well I eventually ordered a Fanatec CSL Elite for ps4 on Monday, direct from Fanatec and it arrived today. The difference is feel is amazing, worth every extra penny. So smooth and quick, feels less toy like too which I think is a plus. I could go on but this isn’t a Fanatec thread, I’m just trying to say to anyone who may read this, give Fanatec a look before buying Thrustmaster.
 
I posted a few pages back, moaning about my 3 T300 RS’s and the unreliability.

Well I eventually ordered a Fanatec CSL Elite for ps4 on Monday, direct from Fanatec and it arrived today. The difference is feel is amazing, worth every extra penny. So smooth and quick, feels less toy like too which I think is a plus. I could go on but this isn’t a Fanatec thread, I’m just trying to say to anyone who may read this, give Fanatec a look before buying Thrustmaster.
The T300 does seem to have a bad trackrecord (never owned one). But it is the best in its priceclass with only G29/920 as competition. Which i personally can recommend.
The CSL Elite competes with thrustmaster Ts-PC/XW/GT, considering its price, from which i havent seen that many failures compared to T300/TX. Fanatec left that market (complete package 200-400 EUR) a while back. I do suspect Thrustmaster coming out with a new midrange wheel soon (T350/400).
 
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A t300 is the best in getting dead. Nothing else. So it gets quite expensive.

Don't know about the reliability of the t150...
Never understood why they didnt immediately fixed the design flaws:
- internal power supply
- insufficient cooling
It is a bit strange, since the T300 came out after the T500, which seems like a very reliable wheel. If reliability was higher the T300 is really the best price/performance deal out there.
 
It's a good wheel so people will so for it and try their luck. I did the same.

But what is more insane is their gt sport version that's more expensive than the csl...
 
It's a good wheel so people will so for it and try their luck. I did the same.

But what is more insane is their gt sport version that's more expensive than the csl...

Yeah I don’t think the T-GT is worth what they are charging, if anything that should be the new mid range model, then bring out something else that’s actually worth £600-700
 
Quick question can anyone tell me what the screw size is for the pedals not the hard mount point but the foot plate as I busted on of the screws

Thanks
 
I’m 90 percent sure you need M6, length depends on what your mounting to but 20mm thread length will be fine for most footplates as they aren’t too thick.

If you’re picky look for an 8.8 marking on the bolts, means they are hardened steel that’s all, you know they won’t break.
 
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I’m 90 percent sure you need M6, length depends on what your mounting to but 20mm thread length will be fine for most footplates as they aren’t too thick.

If you’re picky look for an 8.8 marking on the bolts, means they are hardened steel that’s all, you know they won’t break.
Sorry what I'm looking for is the pedals not the hard mounting screws, it's the metal accelerator plate screw I have broken
 
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hi guys, I want to share, if you open up top and bottom cover of t300rs , you will see there is 2 black cable act as ground, but there is no metal part that connect wheel base to your rig, meaning is static current will not go to ground since there is no metal part connect the wheel to your rig, and static current can be dangerous to t300rs in long time period. To solve it is to make sure your electricity properly grounded, or ( in my case ) grab a piece of cable, use it to connect metal part of the wheel to your rig via 1 of 2 mounting bolt. Next step is to make sure your rig is also grounded. One thing, I use hole at the top of the steering coulomb and attached a cable on it and connect the other end to one of mounting bolt. My wheel has been 5 years now and still OK.
 
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Ever since I started using my new R383 rim this week the fan no longer comes on. Thought this was strange since it almost always turned off/on when using the GTE rim. I tried to enable the ‘forced’ cooling mode but the fan still does not activate even after the mode light flashes twice confirming. I keep the FFB strength low and the wheel doesn’t seem to run warm, so I don’t seem to be in any danger of overheating. Still, this seems odd. I updated the firmware back in late December so I think it’s the latest version.
 
Ever since I started using my new R383 rim this week the fan no longer comes on. Thought this was strange since it almost always turned off/on when using the GTE rim. I tried to enable the ‘forced’ cooling mode but the fan still does not activate even after the mode light flashes twice confirming. I keep the FFB strength low and the wheel doesn’t seem to run warm, so I don’t seem to be in any danger of overheating. Still, this seems odd. I updated the firmware back in late December so I think it’s the latest version.

If you unit is no longer under warranty I would open it up and check the connections to the fan. Even if you do not feel heat on the outside the motor could be getting warm and it is best to keep it cool.
 
If you unit is no longer under warranty I would open it up and check the connections to the fan. Even if you do not feel heat on the outside the motor could be getting warm and it is best to keep it cool.

Still under warranty so not going to break it open just yet. Next step may be to check the firmware via my PC. Maybe I’m missing something.
 
IMG-20180715-WA0004.jpg IMG-20180715-WA0005.jpg
Upgrade that I do 1 year ago, it makes ffb feels better and the wheel is more precise
 
I posted a few pages back, moaning about my 3 T300 RS’s and the unreliability.

Well I eventually ordered a Fanatec CSL Elite for ps4 on Monday, direct from Fanatec and it arrived today. The difference is feel is amazing, worth every extra penny. So smooth and quick, feels less toy like too which I think is a plus. I could go on but this isn’t a Fanatec thread, I’m just trying to say to anyone who may read this, give Fanatec a look before buying Thrustmaster.
I used to work for a company called Handy Dan back from 1979 till 1986. Was a Home Improvement store here in San Antonio TX
 
To add to the thread, my T300rs has been working flawlessly for 2 1/2 years now. Original firmware. I never updated it. I figured if it ain't broke leave it alone. I use this wheel just about everyday since I bought it.
 
Anyone have an issue with the T300 not going to full 100% throttle in GTSport?

I was looking at the bar that shows throttle position and I accidentally banged the throttle: it instantly jumped to max (100% filled bar) throttle. If I just push on the throttle, I'm only getting about 90% of the bar. Is that normal?

Is there a recalibration method in GTSport? Because I can't find it. Thanks.
 
Anyone have an issue with the T300 not going to full 100% throttle in GTSport?

I was looking at the bar that shows throttle position and I accidentally banged the throttle: it instantly jumped to max (100% filled bar) throttle. If I just push on the throttle, I'm only getting about 90% of the bar. Is that normal?

Is there a recalibration method in GTSport? Because I can't find it. Thanks.
You need to check it through the thrustmaster pc software, there you can recalibrate or see if there is an issue with your pedals.
 
I got a question, I have t300 gt and I can’t find cars which have soft lock at 1080 degree wheel lock, only 900 or less - is it normal? The game is GT Sport
 
My T300rs overheated.Got it repaired then swapped over to Xbox so sold it. Now my Tx wheel has died, really violent calibration and has no weight when racing, its gone ‘floaty’ light. And off it goes to Tm for a repair, iam really starting to question the build quality of Tm wheels now !
 
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