Thrustmaster Tgt 2 mods and ideas

  • Thread starter Thread starter mr-ramsbottom
  • 13 comments
  • 1,421 views
Messages
86
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Hi all, so after having nothing but issues with my G923 I decided to upgrade to the tgt 2 with the t3pa pedals.

The mods I've made so far is adding some hydraulic rods to the pedals, which I got from simsonn,.there suppose to be for simsonn pedals, but I've adapted them to fit,.via making a design shown in the picture included, which are a lot nicer in feel.

The best part is the rods are only. £12 each😉

I can now bring the brake pedal back smoothy and in declinations of 1 percents, i tried many different methods of designs, such as the rods pointing down and not upwards, but after 3 different designs I found this one is lovely and smooth and works best, I also put the brake where the clutch was 😉.


I've been playing around with different springs to try and get the balance right, but I feel I need something else, at simsonn they sell two types of rods,.mine which are on and then theres one you can adjust the stiffness,.via a dial at the back of them

To get these rods to come back at the speed I want I had to add a softer spring to the brake coz if I add a stiffer spring it rebounds to quick,

But even even tho I've added a softer spring the feel of engaging the hydraulics is nice to the touch.

To adapt and get rid of bad habits I'm learning to break at 10 percent for the first half a second of the braking point and then increase to either 25 50 75 100 percent etc.

It's a good technique, that really makes me think during race.

If you guys have some ideas or mods of your own, please share with your best lap times, say in daily races time trials,

I'm starting to get use to the new wheel and pedals now,.so I may post some lap times with the new mods soon to.

I'm confident i can already get to within one second of a world record at trial mountain reverse already, after only a couple of hours after my new changes, so its looking good.

I'm now planning on practicing with this new design for the next few days at least, fingers crossed it could be a winner,. But if there's something out there that could make me faster I would love to know about it 😉
 

Attachments

  • 17508963520574161777765326728542.jpg
    17508963520574161777765326728542.jpg
    252.2 KB · Views: 6
  • 1750896381161443107510233815331.jpg
    1750896381161443107510233815331.jpg
    225.7 KB · Views: 5
  • 17508964219105946563563499097558.jpg
    17508964219105946563563499097558.jpg
    221.6 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
Well further changes where needed as I couldn't find consistency with the hydraulics, despite umpteen changes of trying different spring combos and positioning of the hydraulics.

So what I did was which will save a lot of people a heap load of time and effort, not to mention just how many different mods you can buy before you buy or get something right, was to adapt my brake spring from my previous wheel which was the Logitech g923, as illustrated in the pictures.

The stiff spring brake from the g923 has always been a good spring for me, so I thought well why not try to adapt it to these t3pa pedals and see whether it will perform. Also I added some legs to the back of the pedals for extra support and tidied it's all up a bit..

Well it did just that, ( perform ), and Got me from B-Class to a class in just one night, taking some many scalps along the way including a+ drivers who had times of 2 minutes 1 sec flat laps, winning race after race, after 10 wins and and ten second places I was promoted to the a+ league with this new spring combination, fantastic.

Pics included and here's just one race I won, the driver who finish second had a qualifier time of 2 minutes 1.2 secs, Yep and I scalped him to 😂.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250630_073825603.jpg
    IMG_20250630_073825603.jpg
    193.1 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20250630_073716223.jpg
    IMG_20250630_073716223.jpg
    129.2 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20250630_073702918.jpg
    IMG_20250630_073702918.jpg
    128 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
I found this on AliExpress and it's the only place I could find replacement potentiometers for these pedals. I don't know why thrustmaster don't offer them. But that seems like a stunt to me on there part.


I'll have to see how it goes, whether it makes any improvements as the pedals could be as much as two years old, and I don't know how much they've been used. They seem to be operating smoothly when I test them in the collaboration menu.

But in race the accelerator can be a bit jumpy ?, as in shoot up to suddenly. Not sure what causing this at the moment.

I've also been looking at some other hydraulic mods specifically made for these pedals, but really I'm not sure, I've thought about just buying a complete new hydraulic pedals set and just adapting the potentiometer to it, with that method any pedal in the world is open to me.

I've been searching every where for hall sensor upgrades but can't find them any where.

I'll keep this thread going for further testing and post all the mods I make when I make them.
 
Last edited:
Further changes made yesterday by adding a set of lte racing line pedals that come with a t598 but can be used on most thrustmaster wheels, and as off the moment I have to say that these petals are definitely much better performing than the petals that come with the TG T2 which is the t3pa pedals,

For the price there being sold for as well new they are really well worth the price. They feel premium as well as metal is very heavy for what they are, the size of them that is.

They are a game changer for sure as there versatile also easy to invert and because of the simplicity of them there's many good mods for them which I'm yet to try, I'm thinking about trying this one for now,
Brake Pedal MOD [Thrustmaster Raceline Pedals LTE / III, T598] (PC, PS, XBox) | 3DRap https://share.google/jhW7ocVJon3HQIv3J

but would like to know if anyone here as tried them,

The lte pedals also have magnetic frictionless sensors that are so much better than the potentiometer of the t3pa pedals, for the t3pa pedals I have also acquired some new potentiometers today, and I'll be trying this mod for the springs soon,
Brake Pedal MOD [Thrustmaster T3PA PRO] (PC, PS4, PS5, XBox) | 3DRap https://share.google/vCOVY4M9RrudBQbKK

So who knows maybe they could perform as good as the lte pedals, will have to see.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250709_155831820.jpg
    IMG_20250709_155831820.jpg
    145.6 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_20250709_155903674.jpg
    IMG_20250709_155903674.jpg
    115.8 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Further changes made today I decided to go back to inverted I think I'm getting there , it was a total breeze with the lte race line pedals to do, will see it how it goes and post some results soon, but so far so good it's looking good,

One small minors problem I came across with these pedals is there is some friction when the metal rod slides in and out of its housing, to fix this I used a cable tie as illustrated in the picture to keep the housing up and from moving down under braking, as the friction is coming when the housing moves s little bit under braking, this fixes it and stops the friction plus the cable tie stays. But you do have to take the pedal off to do this correctly

By for now
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250710_221820124.jpg
    IMG_20250710_221820124.jpg
    85.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20250710_225919011_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250710_225919011_HDR.jpg
    198.9 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20250710_230008161_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250710_230008161_HDR.jpg
    214.3 KB · Views: 5
Hi well further changes made, well pleased to say the replacement potentiometers arrived from Ali express yesterday for the T3pa pedals, from the link I provided earlier in the thread, took just over a week to arrive but well worth it as they work perfectly and was very easy to replace the existing ones, to save you time if you go down this road is when your lining the cogs on line with each other use the first steel grove in the steel cog of the pedal, and line it up with the fourth plastic grove of the plastic cog, you should be able to see 4 plastic cog groves when done line them up with the pedal upside down, ie the back of the cogs,

I would say if you've use your pedals a lot you should be changing the potentiometer every two years.

Ok so since I've now got the new potentiometers I've decided to give these pedals another ago and I have totally redesigned my rig because I've come to the conclusion that the t3pa petals are also designed with being floor mounted in mind as well obviously as being mounted upright, but I feel strongly that the most comfortable position for these petals is actually floor mounting them, so I've chopped my rig to pieces and modded it for the most comfortable position possible. It's now more sturdy then it was before 😊. I've also found it's really not good to carry on with pedals that really there best comfortable position is floor mounted, I feel strongly the t3pa design was probably focused on comfort for floor mounting rather than upright or even angled on an incline

Ill be trying them out for a week before I try lte pedals out for a week.

Ill post my results next week 😊
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250712_183017333_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250712_183017333_HDR.jpg
    130.7 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_20250712_182843083_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250712_182843083_HDR.jpg
    181.1 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_20250712_182820881_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250712_182820881_HDR.jpg
    145.7 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
Hi 😊 well having played with the newly transformed t3pa pedals with new potentiometers, they did improve but still the lte race line pedals out perform them and for me a half a second to a second a lap quicker

Mainly because the springs on the lte pedals are stiffer and the the hall sensors are more precise.

Conclusion, if you can't get some decent modded springs for these T3pa pedals, forget it. Ill keep searching tho.

I've now set the lte pedals up in such a way that there is no more friction on the release when lifting the pedal 😊 no more cable ties, the trick is to have the back part of the pedal tightened so that when you clamps them to your base do it so the back bottom bar bar is lower than the front bottom bar of the pedal, but also so that when you tighten the back part of the pedal to your base it pull it down lower than the front, but you want it so it's almost bending the back bottom bar of the pedal as illustrated in the picture , the friction completely goes 😊

Jst done 20 laps at daytona withe new setup today and already I'm just 3 tenths away from a top 100. My optimal is coming on at 157.7 and I'm confident I can shave 7 tenths of that, 😊

Here's the lap.




One more thing the ffb on this wheel is so much better on a PS5 compared to a PS4, I've also found by having your wheel in a position where you can stretch out your arm a bit more,.as in not have you arms to straight, but a bit of an arc in your arms, you feel the slides better to. You could just keep moving it further away until you start to feel the slides better, and your good to go.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250715_000619431_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250715_000619431_HDR.jpg
    151.4 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20250715_000610145_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250715_000610145_HDR.jpg
    216.5 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
Hi well further changes, decided to build a support bar for the front of the wheel, as I cut my play seat rig to bits to provide better comfort for mounting the the pedals, floor mounted, as it just want possible on how it was built originally

I found one good use for the t3pa pedals 😊 I used the accelerator pedal face plate for the LTE pedals, feels lovely, now.

I've got my rig now built in such away that it's just feels comfortable all over.

Included in the pics is the best possible length for your arms to feel the slides and catch them so much better on the ffb, you hear all these compliments of how better DD drive wheels are for catching slides because the ffb is instant, well i believe it's mainly how far you have your arms stretched out, as if you have them to close they tense up and you grip the wheel to hard, you end up not feeling the ffb as strong as the wheel can't turn quickly when you slide, because your arms are tensed up and preventing the wheel from turning, which it needs, to, to alert you of a slide, where as when your arms are stretched out it's instant, it sure does alert you 😊

Also included in the pics is how comfortable it is to keep your foot out of the way when not braking, in the newly adapted rig.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250715_161750477_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250715_161750477_HDR.jpg
    202.3 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20250715_161706036_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250715_161706036_HDR.jpg
    102.2 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20250715_161514578_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250715_161514578_HDR.jpg
    193.2 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:
Well it's been a learning curve with this new wheel 😊

But I'm pleased to say it's first class and I now have it set up to perfection.

Further changes made and the results are getting better and better, as I'm now starting to smash all my circuit experience lap times, and almost beating the demonstration lap times, even in fr cars which is a first for me, hopefully I will in a few days when my haptics arrive

The brake and acceleration pedal are two close from new, so a nice simple hack which does not effect how your heals rest, is to mount the plate as illustrated in the picture, this will allow a much more natural position, ideal for consistency. It only makes them two inches further apart but that's a huge difference to how comfortable and natural it starts to feel,

Secondly I've used a brake spring from the Logitech g923 pedals with an extra black rubber on behind the white one as illustrated in the picture for the LTE raceline pedals, trail braking is now first class finally, the thing about this spring is it's soft at beginning and stiffer at the back, what you would call a two stage spring.

Best setting for optimal vibration for alerting you of loss of traction is

Vibration controller strength maxed out,
Steering controller sensitivity maxed out.

Ffb force strength torque 4
Force feedback sensitivity 5

Ffb remains consistent lap after lap with these settings, with a nice feeling of grip,

Next change, I've kept the pedals locked on the firsts slot as illustrated in the picture, for optimal control and comfort, with the accelerator I've used the black spring that comes with the LTE pedals as standard which can also be used for a softer brake spring, after a while you get use to it and you less and less over accelerate, because its a stiffer spring.

Lastly for optimal comfort I've raised the front part of the pedals 1 inch higher than the back, this allows for you foot to be not to straight when not braking, and rest your foot further forward, which gives me a much more natural position with the pedals floor mounted, in the picture you should be able to make out how much the pedals now slope.from front to back, on a plus side you can also get the nice brushed plate pedals face that comes with the tgt2 t3pa pedals to fit the LTE race line pedals, bonus 😊

This will set anyone up for optimal performance and save you heaps loads of of time in practice.

I've just ordered some haptic feedback rumble motors, so I'll post my results soon. I'm seeing some really fantastic results, to which if the haptics make a difference I could even get into a top ten ranking time at Daytona circuit experience, I'm so close already, that was a bit plus for me.

Other tracks where fr cars have never been my strength are now starting to turn around to, such as the demonstration times in circuit experience I'm almost matching them in fr cars and in many sectors i'm actually beating them in many tracks even the most difficult of tracks, I believe that when you start to beat demonstration full lap times in circuit experience you've actually progressed and should start to beat a+ drivers racing in fr cars against an fr car . So these changes are really making a huge difference.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250721_014559024.jpg
    IMG_20250721_014559024.jpg
    181.1 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_20250721_014540645_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250721_014540645_HDR.jpg
    183.3 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20250721_014444356_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20250721_014444356_HDR.jpg
    198 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20250721_021136339.jpg
    IMG_20250721_021136339.jpg
    232.1 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20250721_030404496.jpg
    IMG_20250721_030404496.jpg
    247.7 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_20250721_201121360.jpg
    IMG_20250721_201121360.jpg
    133.4 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
Ok fellow racers 😊

This is must have mod, sim magic haptic motors using sin hub as they work very well with sim hub for alerting you of tyre slip wheel spin and loss of traction through your accelerator pedals. Unfortunately abs is not compatible with sim hub or any other software as gt7 don't allow telemetry reading of abs.

Here's how I did mine, I've fitted them to LTE raceline pedals, which works better than any 3d printed customised parts to help them fit.

After just 2 hours of use I've already shaved a full second of my fastest lap in an fr car on hard tyres on one of the most challenging tracts on Gt7 because of the amount of slippery sections, and now only falling 4/tenths behind the circuit experience demonstration time at nurburgring gp course, I'll beat it tomorrow 😊
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250723_160407064.jpg
    IMG_20250723_160407064.jpg
    186.2 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20250723_160358822.jpg
    IMG_20250723_160358822.jpg
    160.9 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20250723_160351053.jpg
    IMG_20250723_160351053.jpg
    170 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
Well further changes made, no matter what I tried I couldn't get rid of the friction on the LTE pedals, so I chopped them up and made some good springs out of them for the t3pa pedals 😂.

Well the result have been getting better lately I'm now just 1.4 secs away from a world record.

Here's the lap a new track starts today can't wait.




Also I acquired a better chair as well as tightening the belt on the wheel, it is was well loose. I'll post a full tutorial for that soon and I also added a an extra fan on the motherboard, oh found a.secret code for this wheel to, woopee woo, the magic mode plus directional button when the race starts,

So I'm not sure what's made my times for fr cars better for me, maybe it's all the changes lol, or maybe the Gods of gran turismo have started to like me 😀

I don't know it's just been a bit annoying I've not.managed to get within one second of world record which I really should of done.

I'll post the tutorial soon, bye for now
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250804_081431486.webp
    IMG_20250804_081431486.webp
    120.6 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20250804_081237400_HDR.webp
    IMG_20250804_081237400_HDR.webp
    87 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20250804_081357698.webp
    IMG_20250804_081357698.webp
    166.5 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
As promised a tutorial on tightening the belt and how I did an extra fan, super easy to do. Just thinking on and I've just gone within 7 tenths of a world record today at the dailies, I think my biggest change could have come from having the crease under my knees directly supported more by my new seat, which also has put the heal of my foot in a better position for the raised foot stop on the t3pa pedals as illustrated in the pictures, I just feel as if I have more control on the springs now, I probably should stress how important that is. .

First of follow this tutorial for getting the wheel ready for my step.



Now follow my tutorial 😀



The mode plus direction only works when the clock counter has gone down at the start of a race but be aware it will make you faster ,😂 once you get use to the sharper steering inputs that is
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250804_195054239_HDR.webp
    IMG_20250804_195054239_HDR.webp
    92.7 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20250804_195204118.webp
    IMG_20250804_195204118.webp
    116.6 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Well it's been 2 weeks since including the pedal haptic reactors,
And for now I'm only stuck with using one pedal reactor on one pedal the accelerator.

I could use the other one for other stuff but I've decided only to use the accelerator for wheel slip and wheel spin for now. Best setting is to go into the wheel slip settings and turn it on so it's only active when your pedal accelerator reaches 70%.

That way when wheel slip kicks iyou drop your pedal back to 70% the vibration goes off a nd you can immediately start to accelerate again. Cool

Good thing is that this pedal reactors have really helped me to learn a track quite quickly as in knowing exactly where all the low traction points are, and helps to know exactly how much throttle to apply to avoid the haptic reactors coming on in the first place, but when they do come on you can always use your accelerator back to 70% and back on again which is good without having to monitor your monitor. As you feel it through your feet.

So I'll leave you with a qualifying time at today's daily at brands hatch which is only 7/10 off the world record and not my optimal, and I believe that this time probably will not reduce much more in terms of the gap to the world record because normally by this time of on Tuesday day, world records don't normally improve by more than a couple of tenths,

I believe that my improved performance lately is probably down to improving the wheel the seat and mostly I would say in terms of how quick I'm learning a track and getting up to speed because of the he haptic reactors are definitely well worth the purchase

Here's the lap enjoy

 
Final Conclusion Conclusion

I can not improve this wheel and pedals any further

The wheel and pedals will now stay as they are, as it's now staring to show potential, it looks like I had it wrong about the t3pa pedals, since renewing the potentiometers and adapting extra springs to the back, a long with adapting haptic motors to them.

I'm now getting with in 3 tenths of a top 100 and only 5 tenths of a world record, all tho my optimal is only 3 tenths of a world record and good enough for a top 100 at the current brands hatch dailies

Here's the lap 37.909

Optimal time 37.646

World record 37.374




This is how the wheel will stay unless I can come across something else,

I've thought about maybe drive hub with whatever pedals but for now I'm sticking with this, as it's now showing signs of being very competitive.
 

Attachments

  • 17545160346127988412898501649485.webp
    17545160346127988412898501649485.webp
    115.3 KB · Views: 1
  • 17545161255394841455036505509633.webp
    17545161255394841455036505509633.webp
    121.5 KB · Views: 1
Back