Thrustmaster Tgt 2 mods and ideas

[mr-ramsbottom]

Hi all, so after having nothing but issues with my G923 I decided to upgrade to the tgt 2 with the t3pa pedals.

The mods I've made so far is adding some hydraulic rods to the pedals, which I got from simsonn,.there suppose to be for simsonn pedals, but I've adapted them to fit,.via making a design shown in the picture included, which are a lot nicer in feel.

The best part is the rods are only. £12 each😉

I can now bring the brake pedal back smoothy and in declinations of 1 percents, i tried many different methods of designs, such as the rods pointing down and not upwards, but after 3 different designs I found this one is lovely and smooth and works best, I also put the brake where the clutch was 😉.


I've been playing around with different springs to try and get the balance right, but I feel I need something else, at simsonn they sell two types of rods,.mine which are on and then theres one you can adjust the stiffness,.via a dial at the back of them

To get these rods to come back at the speed I want I had to add a softer spring to the brake coz if I add a stiffer spring it rebounds to quick,

But even even tho I've added a softer spring the feel of engaging the hydraulics is nice to the touch.

To adapt and get rid of bad habits I'm learning to break at 10 percent for the first half a second of the braking point and then increase to either 25 50 75 100 percent etc.

It's a good technique, that really makes me think during race.

If you guys have some ideas or mods of your own, please share with your best lap times, say in daily races time trials,

I'm starting to get use to the new wheel and pedals now,.so I may post some lap times with the new mods soon to.

I'm confident i can already get to within one second of a world record at trial mountain reverse already, after only a couple of hours after my new changes, so its looking good.

I'm now planning on practicing with this new design for the next few days at least, fingers crossed it could be a winner,. But if there's something out there that could make me faster I would love to know about it 😉

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Well further changes where needed as I couldn't find consistency with the hydraulics, despite umpteen changes of trying different spring combos and positioning of the hydraulics.

So what I did was which will save a lot of people a heap load of time and effort, not to mention just how many different mods you can buy before you buy or get something right, was to adapt my brake spring from my previous wheel which was the Logitech g923, as illustrated in the pictures.

The stiff spring brake from the g923 has always been a good spring for me, so I thought well why not try to adapt it to these t3pa pedals and see whether it will perform. Also I added some legs to the back of the pedals for extra support and tidied it's all up a bit..

Well it did just that, ( perform ), and Got me from B-Class to a class in just one night, taking some many scalps along the way including a+ drivers who had times of 2 minutes 1 sec flat laps, winning race after race, after 10 wins and and ten second places I was promoted to the a+ league with this new spring combination, fantastic.

Pics included and here's just one race I won, the driver who finish second had a qualifier time of 2 minutes 1.2 secs, Yep and I scalped him to 😂.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

I found this on AliExpress and it's the only place I could find replacement potentiometers for these pedals. I don't know why thrustmaster don't offer them. But that seems like a stunt to me on there part.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006777778182.html

I'll have to see how it goes, whether it makes any improvements as the pedals could be as much as two years old, and I don't know how much they've been used. They seem to be operating smoothly when I test them in the collaboration menu.

But in race the accelerator can be a bit jumpy ?, as in shoot up to suddenly. Not sure what causing this at the moment.

I've also been looking at some other hydraulic mods specifically made for these pedals, but really I'm not sure, I've thought about just buying a complete new hydraulic pedals set and just adapting the potentiometer to it, with that method any pedal in the world is open to me.

I've been searching every where for hall sensor upgrades but can't find them any where.

I'll keep this thread going for further testing and post all the mods I make when I make them.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Further changes made yesterday by adding a set of lte racing line pedals that come with a t598 but can be used on most thrustmaster wheels, and as off the moment I have to say that these petals are definitely much better performing than the petals that come with the TG T2 which is the t3pa pedals,

For the price there being sold for as well new they are really well worth the price. They feel premium as well as metal is very heavy for what they are, the size of them that is.

They are a game changer for sure as there versatile also easy to invert and because of the simplicity of them there's many good mods for them which I'm yet to try, I'm thinking about trying this one for now,
Brake Pedal MOD [Thrustmaster Raceline Pedals LTE / III, T598] (PC, PS, XBox) | 3DRap https://share.google/jhW7ocVJon3HQIv3J

but would like to know if anyone here as tried them,

The lte pedals also have magnetic frictionless sensors that are so much better than the potentiometer of the t3pa pedals, for the t3pa pedals I have also acquired some new potentiometers today, and I'll be trying this mod for the springs soon,
Brake Pedal MOD [Thrustmaster T3PA PRO] (PC, PS4, PS5, XBox) | 3DRap https://share.google/vCOVY4M9RrudBQbKK

So who knows maybe they could perform as good as the lte pedals, will have to see.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Further changes made today I decided to go back to inverted I think I'm getting there , it was a total breeze with the lte race line pedals to do, will see it how it goes and post some results soon, but so far so good it's looking good,

One small minors problem I came across with these pedals is there is some friction when the metal rod slides in and out of its housing, to fix this I used a cable tie as illustrated in the picture to keep the housing up and from moving down under braking, as the friction is coming when the housing moves s little bit under braking, this fixes it and stops the friction plus the cable tie stays. But you do have to take the pedal off to do this correctly

By for now

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Hi well further changes made, well pleased to say the replacement potentiometers arrived from Ali express yesterday for the T3pa pedals, from the link I provided earlier in the thread, took just over a week to arrive but well worth it as they work perfectly and was very easy to replace the existing ones, to save you time if you go down this road is when your lining the cogs on line with each other use the first steel grove in the steel cog of the pedal, and line it up with the fourth plastic grove of the plastic cog, you should be able to see 4 plastic cog groves when done line them up with the pedal upside down, ie the back of the cogs,

I would say if you've use your pedals a lot you should be changing the potentiometer every two years.

Ok so since I've now got the new potentiometers I've decided to give these pedals another ago and I have totally redesigned my rig because I've come to the conclusion that the t3pa petals are also designed with being floor mounted in mind as well obviously as being mounted upright, but I feel strongly that the most comfortable position for these petals is actually floor mounting them, so I've chopped my rig to pieces and modded it for the most comfortable position possible. It's now more sturdy then it was before 😊. I've also found it's really not good to carry on with pedals that really there best comfortable position is floor mounted, I feel strongly the t3pa design was probably focused on comfort for floor mounting rather than upright or even angled on an incline

Ill be trying them out for a week before I try lte pedals out for a week.

Ill post my results next week 😊

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Hi 😊 well having played with the newly transformed t3pa pedals with new potentiometers, they did improve but still the lte race line pedals out perform them and for me a half a second to a second a lap quicker

Mainly because the springs on the lte pedals are stiffer and the the hall sensors are more precise.

Conclusion, if you can't get some decent modded springs for these T3pa pedals, forget it. Ill keep searching tho.

I've now set the lte pedals up in such a way that there is no more friction on the release when lifting the pedal 😊 no more cable ties, the trick is to have the back part of the pedal tightened so that when you clamps them to your base do it so the back bottom bar bar is lower than the front bottom bar of the pedal, but also so that when you tighten the back part of the pedal to your base it pull it down lower than the front, but you want it so it's almost bending the back bottom bar of the pedal as illustrated in the picture , the friction completely goes 😊

Jst done 20 laps at daytona withe new setup today and already I'm just 3 tenths away from a top 100. My optimal is coming on at 157.7 and I'm confident I can shave 7 tenths of that, 😊

Here's the lap.




One more thing the ffb on this wheel is so much better on a PS5 compared to a PS4, I've also found by having your wheel in a position where you can stretch out your arm a bit more,.as in not have you arms to straight, but a bit of an arc in your arms, you feel the slides better to. You could just keep moving it further away until you start to feel the slides better, and your good to go.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Hi well further changes, decided to build a support bar for the front of the wheel, as I cut my play seat rig to bits to provide better comfort for mounting the the pedals, floor mounted, as it just want possible on how it was built originally

I found one good use for the t3pa pedals 😊 I used the accelerator pedal face plate for the LTE pedals, feels lovely, now.

I've got my rig now built in such away that it's just feels comfortable all over.

Included in the pics is the best possible length for your arms to feel the slides and catch them so much better on the ffb, you hear all these compliments of how better DD drive wheels are for catching slides because the ffb is instant, well i believe it's mainly how far you have your arms stretched out, as if you have them to close they tense up and you grip the wheel to hard, you end up not feeling the ffb as strong as the wheel can't turn quickly when you slide, because your arms are tensed up and preventing the wheel from turning, which it needs, to, to alert you of a slide, where as when your arms are stretched out it's instant, it sure does alert you 😊

Also included in the pics is how comfortable it is to keep your foot out of the way when not braking, in the newly adapted rig.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Well it's been a learning curve with this new wheel 😊

But I'm pleased to say it's first class and I now have it set up to perfection.

Further changes made and the results are getting better and better, as I'm now starting to smash all my circuit experience lap times, and almost beating the demonstration lap times, even in fr cars which is a first for me, hopefully I will in a few days when my haptics arrive

The brake and acceleration pedal are two close from new, so a nice simple hack which does not effect how your heals rest, is to mount the plate as illustrated in the picture, this will allow a much more natural position, ideal for consistency. It only makes them two inches further apart but that's a huge difference to how comfortable and natural it starts to feel,

Secondly I've used a brake spring from the Logitech g923 pedals with an extra black rubber on behind the white one as illustrated in the picture for the LTE raceline pedals, trail braking is now first class finally, the thing about this spring is it's soft at beginning and stiffer at the back, what you would call a two stage spring.

Best setting for optimal vibration for alerting you of loss of traction is

Vibration controller strength maxed out,
Steering controller sensitivity maxed out.

Ffb force strength torque 4
Force feedback sensitivity 5

Ffb remains consistent lap after lap with these settings, with a nice feeling of grip,

Next change, I've kept the pedals locked on the firsts slot as illustrated in the picture, for optimal control and comfort, with the accelerator I've used the black spring that comes with the LTE pedals as standard which can also be used for a softer brake spring, after a while you get use to it and you less and less over accelerate, because its a stiffer spring.

Lastly for optimal comfort I've raised the front part of the pedals 1 inch higher than the back, this allows for you foot to be not to straight when not braking, and rest your foot further forward, which gives me a much more natural position with the pedals floor mounted, in the picture you should be able to make out how much the pedals now slope.from front to back, on a plus side you can also get the nice brushed plate pedals face that comes with the tgt2 t3pa pedals to fit the LTE race line pedals, bonus 😊

This will set anyone up for optimal performance and save you heaps loads of of time in practice.

I've just ordered some haptic feedback rumble motors, so I'll post my results soon. I'm seeing some really fantastic results, to which if the haptics make a difference I could even get into a top ten ranking time at Daytona circuit experience, I'm so close already, that was a bit plus for me.

Other tracks where fr cars have never been my strength are now starting to turn around to, such as the demonstration times in circuit experience I'm almost matching them in fr cars and in many sectors i'm actually beating them in many tracks even the most difficult of tracks, I believe that when you start to beat demonstration full lap times in circuit experience you've actually progressed and should start to beat a+ drivers racing in fr cars against an fr car . So these changes are really making a huge difference.